62 Lark Convertible - New Owner in Need of Support
Mike Firnstahl
in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
Vitals:
259 2 bbl
automatic
The body is in excellent shape. The only body problem I know of are
the body supports under the car which I found a source for at
http://www.classicent.com/lark.htm. I need to put a new top on the
car, get seatbelts in the car and clean it up of course.
I don't mind putting some time and money in the car so here is what I
was thinking.
Modernize it to make it a safer and more reliable driver (over the
next year or so). ok here is where I need a sanity check...
1) New brakes (thinking about the Turner brakes - am I crazy?) Brakes
have been checked and do look to be in very good condition. I really
want a driver - not everyday car but I work only about 4 miles from my
house and it is a nice looking car and I would hate to leave it at
home.
2) Electronic Ignition I've seen a couple of sources - Dave Thibeault
and I was also told Studebaker Parts in IN also makes a custom
Ignition for my car. New points, condensor and plugs did get the
engine going - no strange noices but it is burning oil.
3) The engine seems strong but is burning oil what should I do to the
engine? (I haven't contacted the local Stude chapter yet for anybody
who works on these engines locally) I've read alot of your posting
(great newsgroup) and I have an idea of what I should have done to the
engine.
4) Can I get decent seat belts for this car so I can put the kids in
it?
I want to keep the car but I definately need to make some changes to
it so that the wife won't crucify me for keeping the car. (ie make
the car driveable and as safe as possible - again am I off my rocker?)
Thanks
Mike Firnstahl - Norfolk VA
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible
Nathan Nagel
>
> I don't know why but I have always wanted a Studebaker. (never been
> in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
> across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
> 91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
> running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
> crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
>
> Vitals:
> 259 2 bbl
> automatic
>
> The body is in excellent shape. The only body problem I know of are
> the body supports under the car which I found a source for at
> http://www.classicent.com/lark.htm. I need to put a new top on the
> car, get seatbelts in the car and clean it up of course.
>
> I don't mind putting some time and money in the car so here is what I
> was thinking.
>
> Modernize it to make it a safer and more reliable driver (over the
> next year or so). ok here is where I need a sanity check...
>
> 1) New brakes (thinking about the Turner brakes - am I crazy?) Brakes
> have been checked and do look to be in very good condition. I really
> want a driver - not everyday car but I work only about 4 miles from my
> house and it is a nice looking car and I would hate to leave it at
> home.
The stock drums aren't bad, but Jim Turner makes nice stuff from what I
hear and discs are nice. I'd go with a power booster with discs as a)
they take more pressure than drums and b) the Lark firewalls are prone
to stress cracking on manual brake cars anyway.
> 2) Electronic Ignition I've seen a couple of sources - Dave Thibeault
> and I was also told Studebaker Parts in IN also makes a custom
> Ignition for my car. New points, condensor and plugs did get the
> engine going - no strange noices but it is burning oil.
electronic is nice if you don't like fiddling with points. A pertronix
ignitor is a drop in replacement - Ted Harbit sells those. I think that
is what Thibeault sells as well but am not sure.
> 3) The engine seems strong but is burning oil what should I do to the
> engine? (I haven't contacted the local Stude chapter yet for anybody
> who works on these engines locally) I've read alot of your posting
> (great newsgroup) and I have an idea of what I should have done to the
> engine.
Replace the valve stem seals first, that is a very common cause of oil
consumption.
> 4) Can I get decent seat belts for this car so I can put the kids in
> it?
>
Yes, you can get original looking lap belts from Stude Int'l and the
seat belt mounts are already in place in your floor. A very easy
afternoon project. Probably the only tools you need are a knife to cut
the carpet, a tap to clean the threads in the captive nuts (maybe) and a
wrench to tighten the bolts.
> I want to keep the car but I definately need to make some changes to
> it so that the wife won't crucify me for keeping the car. (ie make
> the car driveable and as safe as possible - again am I off my rocker?)
>
> Thanks
> Mike Firnstahl - Norfolk VA
> 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible
Not at all! IMHO the 62 is the nicest looking Lark with the exception
of the front clip. The dash is better looking than the later ones and I
like the round taillight rear end.
nate (working on a 62 Daytona 4-speed HT right now)
Nathan Nagel
>
> I don't know why but I have always wanted a Studebaker. (never been
> in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
> across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
> 91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
> running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
> crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
Oh, I forgot some more good advice... change *ALL* the fluids, check
the brakes thoroughly (you will need a striker type hub puller for the
rear drums - if you don't have one Ted Harbit sells those too) and
replace everything that looks suspect (wheel cylinders are still
available and inexpensive) and finally make friends with Lee DeLaBarre,
he's a good guy and owns 90% of the '62 Daytona parts still in existence
:)
nate
Stdbkr1955
You are not nuts, as a matter of fact finding a 62 Daytona Convert makes you
on of the chosen few. You must understand this is coming from a 7 Studebaker
nut.
Your going for the Turner Disc's kit is a good one. You should go to a dual
master at the same time. Now the orig brakes are fine just an older system.
Also the electronics are a good deal but not a must do.
Glad to see a new Studebaker driver hitting the road. Join the Studebaker
Drivers Club and keep us up to date here.
Mickey
Home of the World Famous
Ms. Estella
Lee
First of all, CONGRATS on the purchase of, what I think, is the best
looking of all the Lark-type convertibles! I am sure it will give you
many years of enjoyment (I know mine have).
On the brakes, yes, I would go with Jim Turner's disc brake
conversion. Be sure to also add a power brake booster (they can still
be found if the car is not already so equipped) and go to a split type
master cylinder. One from a '71 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth mid-size with
disc brakes will work well. This is what I am using on my wife's '64
Lark with discs. There is nothing wrong with drum brakes on a Stude
as my white convertible has travelled 132,000 miles with them and I
feel it is still quite capable of driving in today's traffic. The
disc brakes will, however, make it easier to service and find parts
later (if necessary).
Ted Harbit is an excellent source for the engine goodies! I have only
heard rave reviews about the Pertronix units and do plan to add them
to 2 of my ragtops and one of my wife's sedans. Just something I have
not gotten around to yet <G>. Also check with him about a set of
valve stem seals for it. Most likely, the oil comsumption is due to
valve stem seals that have gotten old, hard, cracked over the years.
Replacing these first may save you big bux and solve the problem!
Several vendors have original-looking seat belts for your car. I do
not remember the price but check with SASCO, SI, or many of the other
vendors on this. Installation is a breeze (at least it shoud be <G>)
as the attaching points should already be in the floor for them.
My wife thought I was nutz for wanting to play with the old
Studebakers when we first met. After her first ride in the ragtop,
she changed her tune in a hurry! Now she has 2 of her own and loves
driving them as well as going to the shows and meeting the great
people involved in this hobby! I sure hope you have the same luck as
I did on this front.
Again, congrats and let us know if you need any parts or such and I am
sure SOMEONE here will have or know where you can get it.
BTW, don't listen to Nate....he is a bit off <VBG>
Oh yeah, what is the VIN number and body number on the car? Also, is
it a full flow or partial flow engine?
On 24 Jul 2002 19:26:07 -0700, myb...@yahoo.com (Mike Firnstahl)
wrote:
Lee DeLaBarre
Daytona62
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible
1962 Lark Regal Convertible (Dad's Last New Studebaker)
1962 Lark Regal Convertible (When Done, Dad's Next New Studebaker)
1964 Avanti R2 4-Speed R5410
1964 Cruiser (Dubbed the Survivor II)
1964 Lark 4-Door Sedan R1 Powered Y3 Police Car
1964 Lark Convertible
1965 Cruiser (Parts Car)
(2) Studebaker Factory Parts Train Cars
Jim Turner
How did you get a 62 Daytona rag top before Lee knew about it? <G> He and
Deb seem to have the market on them! (and not just 1 barn full, but 2 barns
full of spare parts!
Good luck with it, I have a 52 ragtop and we have a blast driving it also!
(that's about the first thing I do after dinner, go for a cruise!)
Jim Turner
JETman
Do you have a bracket for a power brake booster??
--
Regards,
JT (Residing in Austin, Texas)
Just Tooling Down The Internet Superhighway With my G4.......
Lee
and no brackets to mount them. I have been thinking about making some
but time just does not allow that right now.
On Thu, 25 Jul 2002 04:32:09 GMT, JETman <jeta...@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
Lee DeLaBarre
JETman
bracket. I want to put one on the Lark which would leave me one booster
for a spare.
JT
Sonny
your medicine. Yep, that's just what it is. Nope, you're not off your
rocker, you just have a touch of the "sickness" <G> That sweet little
Studeabker is the ONLY thing that will help the "sickness".
I sure hope you can get Mom interested, because it seems like the damn
sickness is terminal. Yep, those Studebakers just seem to keep springing up
around the house, they just multiply like rabbits somehow, normally till the
end of your life!
Just kidding Mike, but we're glad that you're here, and hopefully we can
help you with your thoroughly enjoyable illness! Uhm, have I mentioned that
it gets worse! <SEG>
I'd recommend that you go here as soon as you can
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com and also jump on the Studebaker web
ring which starts here
http://k.webring.com/webring?ring=studebaker;list but no matter what you do,
please keep us posted on your progress and SEND PICTURES! <g>
--
Sonny & "Studbuster"
Packard Powered '50 Starlight Coupe
(Take the X out to e-mail me)
Oldcarfart
>From: myb...@yahoo.com (Mike Firnstahl)
>
>I don't know why but I have always wanted a Studebaker. (never been
>in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
>across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
>91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
>running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
>crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
Let them keep thinking you are crazy, then they leave you alone about it <G>
John Poulos
they are the same.
Lee wrote:
--
JP
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items: http://stude.com/EBAY
My For Sale page http://stude.com/sale.html
53 Custom Coupe
55 Speedster
64 R1 AT/AC GT Hawk
63 R2 GT Hawk/4 speed (keeper)
63 R1 GT Hawk/4 speed/AC
63 R2 4 speed Daytona HT
63 Avanti R3 clone
56 Golden Hawk
Nate Nagel
> BTW, don't listen to Nate....he is a bit off <VBG>
Hmph! I thought I gave the gentleman good, useful info.
Are you saying that you *don't* have the market cornered on '62
Daytona stuff? Who's your competition? Maybe it's time to do a
little comparison shopping :) (oh, wait, I don't think he'll beat the
prices you've been giving me lately... never mind...) <g>
nate
Mike W
>> and no brackets to mount them. I have been thinking about making some
>> but time just does not allow that right now.
Speaking of boosters, I just got mine back from Ed Strain in FL. JP had
mentioned him. He seems to have done a very nice job of rebuilding it. It was,
as JP mentioned, $195 plus shipping.
Mike W.
Packard Hawk
Nate Nagel
master cylinders in '62... conventional type booster, not a Hydrovac
nate
(but I've messed with enough Hydrovacs that I know off the top of my
head that you need six 1/4-28x3/4 bolts, nuts, and lockwashers to
mount the brackets... the sickness continues...)
John Poulos <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message news:<3D3FF4BD...@erols.com>...
Lee
mounts to the firewall.
On Thu, 25 Jul 2002 08:53:17 -0400, John Poulos <ava...@erols.com>
wrote:
Lee
Didn't you see the (Very Big Grin) at the end? I was just funnin'
with you there!
Really, I don't have the market cornered on the '62 parts but sure
wish I did!
Lee DeLaBarre
Robert Kabchef
Mike,
Let me extend a welcome to you and also assure you that you ARE NOT
CRAZY! I have a 60 Lark convertible that's a very roadworthy car. I was just
relating to some friends the other day how my wife's irked with me because
the 60's been in the garage all this summer. Not that it isn't road-ready,
I've just had too many other irons in the fire to move all the stuff stacked
around it and extract it from it's berth. ( I have other Studes as well -
and be advised, we'll help you find your second Stude once you get
"infected"!)
Studes can be VERY driveable with proper service and repair. Disc brake
upgrade is nice, but you'll find the original drum brakes to be more than
adequate for regular driving. Electronic ignition - a nice upgrade but not a
necessity as long as your distributor is in good shape.
Personally, I'd suggest changing the rubber brake lines to the axles and
at least rebuilding the hydraulics, or better yet (since the parts are
relatively cheap) replacing all the hyd. parts with new.
New hoses, new radial tires (205-15s) and the seat belts you speak of.
Take it for a few shakedown runs and then invite the wife along! You'll
be hooked in no time!
--
StudeBob Kabchef
Studefarming in CA
"Mike Firnstahl" <myb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:55001e92.02072...@posting.google.com...
Mike Firnstahl
Here is what has been done to date:
1) Changed the oil and filter
2) changed the transmission fluid, dropped the pan and replaced the
filter screen
3) Checked the brakes but have not changed the fluid but did change
any suspect parts in the brake. I guess from the posts I should
change all lines.
4) Changed two of the freeze plugs but I bought some additional to
change all the plugs and try to clean out the bottom of the engine at
the same time. Any tricks here?
I think the engine is a full flow. I don't remember seeing a filter
up high on the engine. (Car is at my brother-in-laws about 30 minutes
from my house)
Thanks for the advise, I will pursue the brakes from Turner. I can
live with the points at the moment (used to own a couple of TR's so
the little maintenance things are no big deal)
I do have a question for Lee concerning the supports under the car,
they definately need to be replaced.
Mike Firnstahl
>
> One from a '71 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth mid-size with
> disc brakes will work well. This is what I am using on my wife's '64
> Lark with discs. There is nothing wrong with drum brakes on a Stude
> as my white convertible has travelled 132,000 miles with them and I
> feel it is still quite capable of driving in today's traffic. The
> disc brakes will, however, make it easier to service and find parts
> later (if necessary).
>
Should I do the front only or the front and back (too much money in my
pocket...)?
> Ted Harbit is an excellent source for the engine goodies! I have only
> heard rave reviews about the Pertronix units and do plan to add them
> to 2 of my ragtops and one of my wife's sedans. Just something I have
> not gotten around to yet <G>. Also check with him about a set of
> valve stem seals for it. Most likely, the oil comsumption is due to
> valve stem seals that have gotten old, hard, cracked over the years.
> Replacing these first may save you big bux and solve the problem!
>
Any other valve work to deal with unleaded gas?
> Several vendors have original-looking seat belts for your car. I do
> not remember the price but check with SASCO, SI, or many of the other
> vendors on this. Installation is a breeze (at least it shoud be <G>)
> as the attaching points should already be in the floor for them.
>
Thanks.
> Oh yeah, what is the VIN number and body number on the car? Also, is
> it a full flow or partial flow engine?
>
>
> Lee DeLaBarre
VIN #62V40951
Other info - 616 T4
Full flow I think (My brother-in-law has the car and I don't remember
seeing a filter high up on the engine.
Info off my Title - Where would I find the body number?
BTW I appreciate the support!
Mike Firnstahl
JETman
JT
JETman
Mike Firnstahl wrote:
>
> Nathan Nagel <njn...@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<3D3F660D...@earthlink.net>...
> > Mike Firnstahl wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't know why but I have always wanted a Studebaker. (never been
> > > in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
> > > across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
> > > 91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
> > > running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
> > > crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
> >
> > Oh, I forgot some more good advice... change *ALL* the fluids, check
> > the brakes thoroughly (you will need a striker type hub puller for the
> > rear drums - if you don't have one Ted Harbit sells those too) and
> > replace everything that looks suspect (wheel cylinders are still
> > available and inexpensive) and finally make friends with Lee DeLaBarre,
> > he's a good guy and owns 90% of the '62 Daytona parts still in existence
> > :)
> >
> > nate
>
> Here is what has been done to date:
>
> 1) Changed the oil and filter
> 2) changed the transmission fluid, dropped the pan and replaced the
> filter screen
> 3) Checked the brakes but have not changed the fluid but did change
> any suspect parts in the brake. I guess from the posts I should
> change all lines.
It isn't that hard to change all the lines including those made of
steel. It can be done in one weekend and you'll just feel safer. Make
sure that you go to a dual M/C.
> 4) Changed two of the freeze plugs but I bought some additional to
> change all the plugs and try to clean out the bottom of the engine at
> the same time. Any tricks here?
>
Wear OLD Clothes! It's a messy job but the cooling system will thank
you. Replace all the freeze plugs. I suggest steel as there appear to
be bi-metal issues with brass plugs. It's a matter of choice I suppose.
> I think the engine is a full flow. I don't remember seeing a filter
> up high on the engine. (Car is at my brother-in-laws about 30 minutes
> from my house)
>
> Thanks for the advise, I will pursue the brakes from Turner. I can
> live with the points at the moment (used to own a couple of TR's so
> the little maintenance things are no big deal)
>
> I do have a question for Lee concerning the supports under the car,
> they definately need to be replaced.
--
Lee
wrote:
>Here is what has been done to date:
>
>1) Changed the oil and filter
***** If you changed the filter and it was on the lower passenger side
of the engine, you definitely have a full flow. Also, from the VIN
number you posted, I belive your car will have had final assembly
SOMEWHERE around 5/15/62 (well into the full-flow era). A call to the
Studebaker National Museum will render you a production order for your
car (at the cost of $25) which will tell all the goodies about when
your car was built and what options it had when manufactured.
>2) changed the transmission fluid, dropped the pan and replaced the
>filter screen
*****Good thing! Also, it would be best to pull the rear axle shafts
and repack the bearings there as well as changing the diff fluid.
This is outlined in the Shop Manual.
>3) Checked the brakes but have not changed the fluid but did change
>any suspect parts in the brake. I guess from the posts I should
>change all lines.
******I would change all the hard as well as the soft lines. If
moisture collects in the steel lines, they will rust from the inside
and can be totally invisible until failure. Defintiely worth the
time! This is also easy to do when converting to a dual-circuit
master cylinder. The rubber hoses will swell inside sometimes and not
allow the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. Can cause
brakes to drag. These lines can also rupture easily when they get dry
and brittle.
>4) Changed two of the freeze plugs but I bought some additional to
>change all the plugs and try to clean out the bottom of the engine at
>the same time. Any tricks here?
******Pull them all out, dig around with a stiff wire, flush with LOTS
of water and, by all means, wear throw-away clothes and safety
goggles! This is a mess.
>
>I think the engine is a full flow. I don't remember seeing a filter
>up high on the engine. (Car is at my brother-in-laws about 30 minutes
>from my house)
>
>Thanks for the advise, I will pursue the brakes from Turner. I can
>live with the points at the moment (used to own a couple of TR's so
>the little maintenance things are no big deal)
>
>I do have a question for Lee concerning the supports under the car,
>they definately need to be replaced.
Lee DeLaBarre
Lee
wrote:
>
>Should I do the front only or the front and back (too much money in my
>pocket...)?
********* I would only change the front to disc at this time. The
fronts do something like 80% of your braking and, unless you are
beating the heck out of this thing and in the brakes all the time, it
could be money better spent somewhere else until you get all the other
things done.
>Any other valve work to deal with unleaded gas?
******None whatsoever. The castings that Studebaker used were very
hard and, unless you are pulling heavy loads all the time and running
it very hard, you should not do any damage to the heads. IF the seats
recess, you can always deal with it at that time. However, I do not
think this will ever be an issue with the way you say the car will be
used.
>
>> Oh yeah, what is the VIN number and body number on the car? Also, is
>> it a full flow or partial flow engine?
The VIN number is the number on the stainless steel plate inside the
driver's door jamb. It shoud be a 64V XXXX number of some sort. The
body number is under the hood on the passenger's side of the firewall
right below the heater filter (long black rubber looking thing...pull
it out and clean it while you are in there) This tag should have a
number something like 62V-L8 and a 3 or 4 digit number below
it. The 62V means it is a 1962 V-8 car. The L is for convertible and
the 8 is for Daytona trim. The number below is the sequential number
the BODY was built and warehoused. Has nothing to do with the actual
final assembly date or order of the car.
BTW, I do not know what the "616 T4" would stand for on your
title.....
>
>VIN #62V40951
>Other info - 616 T4
>Full flow I think (My brother-in-law has the car and I don't remember
>seeing a filter high up on the engine.
>
>Info off my Title - Where would I find the body number?
>
>BTW I appreciate the support!
****** Any time!
>
>Mike Firnstahl
Lee
Having never had a '59 or '60 Lark with power brakes installed (hey
Ron, was the P/B unit that I bought for the '60 any good?), I totally
spaced that one!
On Fri, 26 Jul 2002 02:11:56 GMT, JETman <jeta...@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
Lee
before sending <G>
If you go with Jim Turner's brakes on the front, I believe you are
going to change the front hoses anyway with his kit to attach them to
the calipers instead of wheel cylinders. That only leaves the one
rubber hose in back (from the frame to the axle) to buy separately.
On Fri, 26 Jul 2002 02:20:27 GMT, dayt...@comcast.net (Lee) wrote:
>
>******I would change all the hard as well as the soft lines. If
>moisture collects in the steel lines, they will rust from the inside
>and can be totally invisible until failure. Defintiely worth the
>time! This is also easy to do when converting to a dual-circuit
>master cylinder. The rubber hoses will swell inside sometimes and not
>allow the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. Can cause
>brakes to drag. These lines can also rupture easily when they get dry
>and brittle.
>
>
Lee DeLaBarre
Lee
64V. Must have been a long day working on the ragtop!
JETman
JT
Nathan Nagel
>
> Nathan Nagel <njn...@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<3D3F660D...@earthlink.net>...
> > Mike Firnstahl wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't know why but I have always wanted a Studebaker. (never been
> > > in one, hardly ever saw one but always wanted one...) I happened
> > > across a 62 Lark Daytona Convertible that the owner had stored since
> > > 91. My brother-in-law towed it to his shop and has since got the car
> > > running. In the meantime, he thinks I'm crazy, my wife thinks I'm
> > > crazy and of course I'm really sane they just don't know it.
> >
> > Oh, I forgot some more good advice... change *ALL* the fluids, check
> > the brakes thoroughly (you will need a striker type hub puller for the
> > rear drums - if you don't have one Ted Harbit sells those too) and
> > replace everything that looks suspect (wheel cylinders are still
> > available and inexpensive) and finally make friends with Lee DeLaBarre,
> > he's a good guy and owns 90% of the '62 Daytona parts still in existence
> > :)
> >
> > nate
>
> Here is what has been done to date:
>
> 1) Changed the oil and filter
> 2) changed the transmission fluid, dropped the pan and replaced the
> filter screen
Well, that just leaves the rear end, wheel bearings, and chassis grease
fittings to lube. Not a big deal.
> 3) Checked the brakes but have not changed the fluid but did change
> any suspect parts in the brake. I guess from the posts I should
> change all lines.
Might want to consider changing the hoses, if the steel lines look OK
you can "torture test" them - just stand on the brake pedal as hard as
you can. If nothing breaks it's probably OK to drive.
> 4) Changed two of the freeze plugs but I bought some additional to
> change all the plugs and try to clean out the bottom of the engine at
> the same time. Any tricks here?
>
There are two drain plugs as well, removing those will make it a little
easier to do that.
> I think the engine is a full flow. I don't remember seeing a filter
> up high on the engine. (Car is at my brother-in-laws about 30 minutes
> from my house)
>
Probably is a full flow then. Does it have the tall oil filler thing on
the front of the block, or breathers on each valve cover? If it's got
the tall thing it's a partial flow block which doesn't have a filter.
If it has a filter down low like a "normal" car it's definitely a full
flow.
> Thanks for the advise, I will pursue the brakes from Turner. I can
> live with the points at the moment (used to own a couple of TR's so
> the little maintenance things are no big deal)
>
> I do have a question for Lee concerning the supports under the car,
> they definately need to be replaced.
Bodywork is evil, and should be done by others :)
nate
Ron / Champ 6
I have no plans to install it, does anyone want it?
Ron/Champ 6
1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1960 Lark Hardtop (Buttercup)
1988 VW Jetta (Franz.... Hanz is long gone)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
John Poulos
Mike W wrote:
--
John Poulos
Mike W
why the newly rebuilt one is not releasing the brakes. Stops very well but then
there is that matter of going again <G>. Ed does seem to be willing to do
whatever it takes to get the the problem straightened out. I just am not sure
he is going in the correct direction. I pulled the new MC and will send it off
to him, but I am betting that something in the Hydrovac is causing the problem.
Mike W.
Packard Hawk
John Poulos
Let me know, because I had exactly the same problem until I adjusted the MC free
play with the rebuilt booster. I was about to replace the MC myself, but got them
to work by adding a bit more free play that the manual calls for.
Mike W wrote:
--
Lee
On Fri, 26 Jul 2002 04:19:01 GMT, JETman <jeta...@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
JETman
JT
Robert Kabchef
riding cars Stude ever built.
--
StudeBob Kabchef
Studefarming in CA
"JETman" <jeta...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3D41C076...@worldnet.att.net...
Mike Firnstahl
Numbers:
Numbers off the car
V563162 (or V563I62) is it a 1 or an I?
62VL81043
1554641 - I think this one was on the firewall.
The car is a full flow
That's all the numbers I could find.
I drove the car last night and took some pictures! I'll make up a
webpage and post the link. The car pulls hard to the driver's side
under braking and drives like a truck. Can I add power steering to
this car? Where would I find the power booster for the brakes? I
don't think I have it on the car.
The good news:
1. the car runs great and drove smooth
2. all the lights work!
3. brother-in-law surprised it started and ran good and gave me a list
of parts to procure! He's on the support side! (should help with the
wife!!!)
4. The car looks better than I remember the dash looks great. speedo
works (some movement on the needle so may not for long)
Here is what I'm buying now:
1. Turner Brake equipment - Turner front disk, Turner master cylinder
bracket (do I need this?) and new lines front to back. I definately
want to add power assist - What do I need to do and I don't mind
putting in a non studebaker power assist if this is the best thing to
do (or even possible for that matter)
2. Valves: Valve cover gaskets (neoprene where do I get these) and
valve stem seals (hope it solves the oil problem)
3. Tie rod ends (any suggestions)
4. Temp sender unit
I getting really excited...
BTW although I have a new top it has been stored for 11 years in the
box and it is from jcwhitney - Should I even try to put this on. If
it isn't a great top to put on the car I would prefer just to buy a
new one (high quality and put it on the car) Any suggestions? I also
could not find how to operate the hydralic top. How to I check it
out?
Transtar60
The Turner m/c bracket is for cars with under the floorboard m/cs(ie 60 and
older)
Power brake booster should be inbetween the firewall and the mastercylinder.
60 and older cars had them mounted on inner fenders.
Powersteering?? Easiest way to do that is to find a 62 Lark parts car. Can
be a sedan as they all be the same.
While ya at it , if you dont have all the manuals , ya need to get them.
I think several vendors have them on CD rom, if ya dont want big books
cluttering up your desk.
Helps to have a parts manual too.
--
Charlie Veit
5E13 1960 Transtar 1 ton Dually
7E7 1962 Champ 1/2 ton short bed
8E12 1964 Champ 3/4 ton Long bed
Lark VIII Regal Deluxe 4dr 1959 W6
"Mike Firnstahl" <myb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:55001e92.02072...@posting.google.com...
Transtar60
is the powersteering box, is different from the manual, there are too many
parts to mention that will need to be transfered over.
Pump, lines, steering ram,the arm that attaches to ps box.
BTW the power steering is external to the box, not intergral like late
model GM/F8rd/Chryco
--
Charlie Veit
5E13 1960 Transtar 1 ton Dually
7E7 1962 Champ 1/2 ton short bed
8E12 1964 Champ 3/4 ton Long bed
Lark VIII Regal Deluxe 4dr 1959 W6
"Transtar60" <trans...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ahu90r$ojm$1...@news2.seidata.com...
TomB
wrote:
>Here where I'm at with the project:
<snip>
>BTW although I have a new top it has been stored for 11 years in the
>box and it is from jcwhitney - Should I even try to put this on. If
>it isn't a great top to put on the car I would prefer just to buy a
>new one (high quality and put it on the car) Any suggestions? I also
>could not find how to operate the hydralic top. How to I check it
>out?
JC Whitney has various grades of products, some not good and some
quite good. You know the routine.... "good, better, best". Just from
gut feel, an 11 year old top is going to have some fold creases that
are going to take a bit of time to work out, but 11 years ago most of
them were probably at least Made In USA.
Not being an expert in such materials (I've only had one convert and I
just had a local guy I trust put a top on it.) I think I'd take it to
an upholstery shop or two and ask them how much they would charge to
install it. Most of these guys will give you their comments on it's
quality without you even asking but if they don't you can ask them
what they think about the material. After a couple of opinions you'll
be able to make an informed decision.
TomB
Sonny
I just succumbed to a two door hardtop myself, on top of a '50 bulletnose,
and a '60 Lark V8....... Ahhh the wonderful sickness. <G>
Sonny
"Mike Firnstahl" <myb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:55001e92.02072...@posting.google.com...
Nathan Nagel
>
> Here where I'm at with the project:
>
> Numbers:
>
> Numbers off the car
> V563162 (or V563I62) is it a 1 or an I?
> 62VL81043
> 1554641 - I think this one was on the firewall.
> The car is a full flow
>
> That's all the numbers I could find.
>
> I drove the car last night and took some pictures! I'll make up a
> webpage and post the link. The car pulls hard to the driver's side
> under braking and drives like a truck. Can I add power steering to
> this car? Where would I find the power booster for the brakes? I
> don't think I have it on the car.
Do a *full* lube on the front suspension and steering linkage before you
pass judgement on the manual steering. Dry kingpin bushings can cause
hard steering, mine steers fine now that it is well greased. NG wisdom
seems to say that you should top up your steering box with CV grease
unless you can find the special lube for the Ross box (Kendall something
or other.) Also make sure that you don't have frozen wheel cylinders
before you start buying power brake stuff. You may have one-wheel
brakes if it's been sitting a long time!
>
> The good news:
>
> 1. the car runs great and drove smooth
> 2. all the lights work!
> 3. brother-in-law surprised it started and ran good and gave me a list
> of parts to procure! He's on the support side! (should help with the
> wife!!!)
> 4. The car looks better than I remember the dash looks great. speedo
> works (some movement on the needle so may not for long)
>
Rock on! Lube the speedo cable and make sure it's not kinked before you
condemn the head. If it is the head I have a good '64 speedo for parts,
drop me an email if it doesn't work out.
> Here is what I'm buying now:
>
> 1. Turner Brake equipment - Turner front disk, Turner master cylinder
> bracket (do I need this?) and new lines front to back. I definately
> want to add power assist - What do I need to do and I don't mind
> putting in a non studebaker power assist if this is the best thing to
> do (or even possible for that matter)
If you're going with the Turner brakes, you want power assist and a dual
circuit master cylinder. Jim Turner himself is probably the best person
to ask about what to buy.
> 2. Valves: Valve cover gaskets (neoprene where do I get these) and
> valve stem seals (hope it solves the oil problem)
Try SASCO
> 3. Tie rod ends (any suggestions)
don't know
> 4. Temp sender unit
SASCO again probably, if they don't have any post back.
>
> I getting really excited...
>
> BTW although I have a new top it has been stored for 11 years in the
> box and it is from jcwhitney - Should I even try to put this on. If
> it isn't a great top to put on the car I would prefer just to buy a
> new one (high quality and put it on the car) Any suggestions? I also
> could not find how to operate the hydralic top. How to I check it
> out?
Not familiar with convertibles, hopefully someone else can help you out
here.
good luck,
nate
Studegary
>V563162 (or V563I62) is it a 1 or an I?
It is a 1. Studebaker used an I to represent a 1. This has caused confusion
in later years. If you haven't yet, join the Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. at
<www.studebakerdriversclub.com>. Gary L.
Lee
Yes, the "I" is indeed a one on the VIN number.....that is just the
type of character Studebaker used on them.
the 62V L8 tells that is is a '62 V-8 powered convertible (the "L") in
Daytona time (the "8"). The number below it (1043) is the body
number. I don't remember if in '62 the body numbers started with 1 or
with 100, but either way, it is about the 1000th convertible BODY
assembled for the 1962 model year.
The pictures you send of the car area GREAT! Really a good looking
car and it should draw a lot of attention in addition to being a
terrific car to drive! I put approx 350 miles on mine Friday night
and Saturday and had a great time doing it!
As far as the hard steering, make sure everything is lubed up. There
are MANY places to grease and make sure you get them all. Adding
power steering is not ALL that hard, but it does take some time and
you will be cursing by the time you are done. The power steering cars
used a different steering gear (but you do NOT have to change it out)
that is a faster ratio. The manual box will work fine! Just a little
more turns lock to lock. You will have to change out the pitman arm
with one that has the control valve on it, the reach rod, the steering
bell crank, add the hydraulic cylinder, pump, hoses, and the proper
clamps to hold it all in place. Would be best to have a parts car
handy with power steering to make sure you have all the right studs,
clips and such. On the other side of this, my wife's '64 Cruiser does
NOT have power steering and she sees no reason to put it on the car.
While at a stop it is a bit of work to turn the wheel, it does turn
quite easily when driving.
The brakes on a '62 Lark are not of the self-adjusting type. These
were not standard until 1963. It is possible that they just need
adjustment or it could be more of a problem with contamination from a
leaking wheel cylinder or such. I know you were talking about adding
Jim Turner's front discs and I think this would definitely solve the
problem <G>. If you want to try to just adjust them and see how it
works, take the little oval plug out of the backing plate and turn the
star wheel until the wheel locks. Then loosen them 8 clicks and see
how it drives. I have always set mine this way (as the shop manual
says) and I have never had pulling problems.
A power brake booster set up can be had from parts cars and can
sometimes be found at swap meets. May just take some time to find
what you need on this one. Sorry I don't have a stash of them sitting
around OR pieces to make up a set for you.
You will not need a dual circuit master cylinder bracket as yours is
the suspended pedal type. That is only used on the cars with the
master cylinder mounted under the floor.
I would check with Ted Harbit for the gaskets and seals. I know I get
my valve covers gaskets from him and am very happy with them! I am
pretty sure he would have the seals for the valve stems as well.
SASCO, I think, has the tie rod ends. I also got my temp sending unit
from them as well. Ted may have the sending unit, but I don't know.
On the top, the only thing I use mine for is a dust cover in the
winter <G>. Seriously, if the top looks to be a good quality, I would
not hesitate to use it. If you are going to have another shop install
it, you may want to just have them get a top for it and put it on.
That way, they will take responsibiltiy for the whole job. To actuate
the top, unsnap the two clamps at the windshield frame and under the
dash and right below the ignition switch/wiper switch area you will
see a little chrome lever. Push it to the right to make the top go up
and to the left to make the top go down. If someone has had it out
and crossed the wires, you may have to push it left to make it go up
and right to go down. The pump and cylinders for the top use brake
fluid in them and, over the years, it draws moisture and gets a bit
gummy. If the top is sluggish in operation, just remove the motor and
pump, disassemble, clean, reassemble and put it back in. I did that
to mine 6 years ago and it made it work like new.
On 27 Jul 2002 06:32:27 -0700, myb...@yahoo.com (Mike Firnstahl)
wrote:
Lee DeLaBarre
Mike Firnstahl
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes, the "I" is indeed a one on the VIN number.....that is just the
> type of character Studebaker used on them.
>
> the 62V L8 tells that is is a '62 V-8 powered convertible (the "L") in
> Daytona time (the "8"). The number below it (1043) is the body
> number. I don't remember if in '62 the body numbers started with 1 or
> with 100, but either way, it is about the 1000th convertible BODY
> assembled for the 1962 model year.
>
> The pictures you send of the car area GREAT! Really a good looking
> car and it should draw a lot of attention in addition to being a
> terrific car to drive! I put approx 350 miles on mine Friday night
> and Saturday and had a great time doing it!
>
suggestion that comes back...
> As far as the hard steering, make sure everything is lubed up. There
> are MANY places to grease and make sure you get them all. Adding
> power steering is not ALL that hard, but it does take some time and
> you will be cursing by the time you are done. The power steering cars
> used a different steering gear (but you do NOT have to change it out)
> that is a faster ratio. The manual box will work fine! Just a little
> more turns lock to lock. You will have to change out the pitman arm
> with one that has the control valve on it, the reach rod, the steering
> bell crank, add the hydraulic cylinder, pump, hoses, and the proper
> clamps to hold it all in place. Would be best to have a parts car
> handy with power steering to make sure you have all the right studs,
> clips and such. On the other side of this, my wife's '64 Cruiser does
> NOT have power steering and she sees no reason to put it on the car.
> While at a stop it is a bit of work to turn the wheel, it does turn
> quite easily when driving.
Need to lube everything still. The kingpins were rebuilt before the
car was put in storage.
Actually when the car was rolling the steering was easy it was just at
stop that it became difficult (not much different from my '72 TR6 but
that was so long ago)
>
> The brakes on a '62 Lark are not of the self-adjusting type. These
> were not standard until 1963. It is possible that they just need
> adjustment or it could be more of a problem with contamination from a
> leaking wheel cylinder or such. I know you were talking about adding
> Jim Turner's front discs and I think this would definitely solve the
> problem <G>. If you want to try to just adjust them and see how it
> works, take the little oval plug out of the backing plate and turn the
> star wheel until the wheel locks. Then loosen them 8 clicks and see
> how it drives. I have always set mine this way (as the shop manual
> says) and I have never had pulling problems.
Definately ordering the disc brakes but I will try this first anyway.
>
> A power brake booster set up can be had from parts cars and can
> sometimes be found at swap meets. May just take some time to find
> what you need on this one. Sorry I don't have a stash of them sitting
> around OR pieces to make up a set for you.
>
> You will not need a dual circuit master cylinder bracket as yours is
> the suspended pedal type. That is only used on the cars with the
> master cylinder mounted under the floor.
>
Would I just add the dual master cylinder (Ford recommended from
Turner) onto the firewall? I guess I'll get all that info from
Turner, I have an email into him now.
> I would check with Ted Harbit for the gaskets and seals. I know I get
> my valve covers gaskets from him and am very happy with them! I am
> pretty sure he would have the seals for the valve stems as well.
>
I have Ted's email and I'll send him off a request/order tonight.
> SASCO, I think, has the tie rod ends. I also got my temp sending unit
> from them as well. Ted may have the sending unit, but I don't know.
Thanks I'll try them. I've bought a few parts from
studebakerparts.com (Chuck Collins) and he has been very responsive.
The internet is a wonderful thing.
>
> On the top, the only thing I use mine for is a dust cover in the
> winter <G>. Seriously, if the top looks to be a good quality, I would
> not hesitate to use it. If you are going to have another shop install
> it, you may want to just have them get a top for it and put it on.
> That way, they will take responsibiltiy for the whole job. To actuate
> the top, unsnap the two clamps at the windshield frame and under the
> dash and right below the ignition switch/wiper switch area you will
> see a little chrome lever. Push it to the right to make the top go up
> and to the left to make the top go down. If someone has had it out
> and crossed the wires, you may have to push it left to make it go up
> and right to go down. The pump and cylinders for the top use brake
> fluid in them and, over the years, it draws moisture and gets a bit
> gummy. If the top is sluggish in operation, just remove the motor and
> pump, disassemble, clean, reassemble and put it back in. I did that
> to mine 6 years ago and it made it work like new.
>
I actually have an extra hydralic pump that came with the car, I'll
just clean that one up. The previous owner (who got the car from his
dad - one family owner car) had a convertible parts car and I have a
bunch of extra parts that came with the car. Window parts, power
steering pump...
>
> Lee DeLaBarre
> Daytona62
> 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible
> 1962 Lark Regal Convertible (Dad's Last New Studebaker)
> 1962 Lark Regal Convertible (When Done, Dad's Next New Studebaker)
> 1964 Avanti R2 4-Speed R5410
> 1964 Cruiser (Dubbed the Survivor II)
> 1964 Lark 4-Door Sedan R1 Powered Y3 Police Car
> 1964 Lark Convertible
> 1965 Cruiser (Parts Car)
>
> (2) Studebaker Factory Parts Train Cars
Thanks for the info.
Mike Firnstahl
myb...@yahoo.com
1962 Larl Daytona Convertible
Lee
wrote:
>
>Actually when the car was rolling the steering was easy it was just at
>stop that it became difficult (not much different from my '72 TR6 but
>that was so long ago)
>
This is perfectly normal......if you don't care for that, you will
have to add P/S
>>
>
>Would I just add the dual master cylinder (Ford recommended from
>Turner) onto the firewall? I guess I'll get all that info from
>Turner, I have an email into him now.
I am not 100% sure which m/c Jim Turner suggests, but I used a '71
Chrysler product mid-size with discs for my disc brake cars. Works
well on mine.
>
>I actually have an extra hydralic pump that came with the car, I'll
>just clean that one up. The previous owner (who got the car from his
>dad - one family owner car) had a convertible parts car and I have a
>bunch of extra parts that came with the car. Window parts, power
>steering pump...
Sounds like you got set up pretty well with some spares along the way!
That is great!!!
Paul
them to the axle tubes can hide a rusty line. I removed the clips on my 61
that came from California and found a pit that was on the verge of bursting.
I was able to easily poke a hole through the line. (You listening Bob?<G>)
Paul Villforth
Mike Firnstahl
I'm going to replace all brake lines and see how the brakes work. The
pads are new on the car and the wheel cylinders look fine. I will
probably go ahead and replace the wheel cylinders anyway. I was going
to put Turner disc brakes on now but I think I will wait and see how
the current brakes work out.
Nate Nagel
Make sure you replace all the hoses as well. IMHO that is more
important than replacing the hard lines - you *know* when a hard line
is bad and can test it in your driveway - a hose can be soft, have a
"flap" in it, be swollen up so very little fluid can get through and
can cause any number of problems that won't show up until you actually
drive the car... (pulling, inconsistent braking, dragging/locking
brakes, etc. etc. etc.)
If you're going to replace all the hard lines, you might want to call
up Classic Tube or one of the other companies that advertises in
Hemmings, they may have patterns for your car and be able to send you
a set of lines pre-bent and flared. Not that bending and flaring is
that hard, but if you're doing the whole car, it might be worth the
$200 or whatever to have someone else do it. Plus for a little more
$$$ they will make them up in stainless which IMHO is great stuff. If
you go that route I'd order a set of lines for a '63 so you can use a
dual circuit master cylinder.
good luck,
nate
Mike Firnstahl
Hey Nate,
Would I use a Studebaker master cylinder or could I use a more modern
master cylinder? thanks for the link.
Nathan Nagel
I used a '63 Stude master cylinder, there are a couple others out there
that people have used as well.
nate