Rover 214 (L) - Hot Re-starting problem..
Steve Harvey
My mother owns a 1994(L) Rover 214 which has developed a frequent
problem after re-starting with a warm engine. She tells me that after it has
been parked when hot and it is re-started, the car will drive for a short
distance - less than 1/2 mile before the engine splutters and stops. If she
waits for a short while, 5-10 minutes, she is able to start it again and
continue the journey with no more problems.
The symptoms appear very similar to those I once suffered in an old 1.8L
Ford Sierra which was diagnosed by the AA as a vapour lock and I fixed it by
replacing the mechanical camshaft-driven fuel pump. On the Rover 214, the
petrol pump is however in the fuel tank and is electric powered.
Does this problem seem like vapour-lock and if so, is there a common issue
with this Model or Engine?
Would a replacement pump be the solution or is the problem likely to be
under the hood (Fuel Injection etc..)?
Thanks in advance
Steve
steveharvey [at] dsl [dot] pipex [dot] com
Hellraiser
"Steve Harvey" <steve...@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:qoOdndyGbuw...@pipex.net...
> Hi,
> My mother owns a 1994(L) Rover 214 which has developed a frequent
> problem after re-starting with a warm engine. She tells me that after it
> has been parked when hot and it is re-started, the car will drive for a
> short distance - less than 1/2 mile before the engine splutters and stops.
> If she waits for a short while, 5-10 minutes, she is able to start it
> again and continue the journey with no more problems.
Crank position sensor?
Hellraiser.............>
mrcheerful .
first try is always a new rotor arm
Paul Hubbard
"Hellraiser" <hellr...@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4k8h8aF...@individual.net...
> Crank position sensor?
Sounds the likely candidate, it will bring the car to a stop and can be a
pain.
PDH
Keith Cunningham
Mine's doing that to me. It'll start and run perfectly well for a few
minutes and then finds an awkward place (e.g. traffic lights or roundabout)
to cut out. I was wondering if it's an overheating coil or a choked-up fuel
filter. It doesn't get hot enough to start the radiator fan. I've done the
plugs and given it a new distributor cap but that hasn't cured it. It's got
the K16 multi-point injection engine.
KeithC
Paul Hubbard
"Keith Cunningham" <keith.cu...@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:45041995$0$2659$ed26...@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
> Mine's doing that to me. It'll start and run perfectly well for a few
> minutes and then finds an awkward place (e.g. traffic lights or
> roundabout)
> to cut out. I was wondering if it's an overheating coil or a choked-up
> fuel
> filter. It doesn't get hot enough to start the radiator fan. I've done the
> plugs and given it a new distributor cap but that hasn't cured it. It's
> got
> the K16 multi-point injection engine.
Sounds yet again like the dreaded crankcase sensor failure.......!
PDH
Keith Cunningham
"Paul Hubbard" <jes...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:hfZMg.70$2g5...@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...
failure?
KC
Paul Hubbard
> Would the engine temperature be the cause of temporary crankcase sensor
> failure?
No, they just go slowly senile. I'd check the connector to it first as they
also tend to corrode.
PDH
starmann
you need to put car on a dignostic machine but it sounds like a temp probe
probelm (air tempin manifold ) again an hour on dignostic should reveal just
what is wrong.
Bob
Rover 200 1.4 occasionally would not start from hot, or if it had been
parked in the sun (this summer really showed it up).
I assumed it was temperature related, and opening all the doors and
bonnet, and running the fan on full for anything for 2 to 20 minutes
would mean the car would start, BUT I did not them have trouble with it
stopping again (unless I stalled it).
The garage failed to find anything from their diagnostic gear, and it
fell to an AA man (3 cheers) to get the car running on one occasion. He
discovered that power was getting to the relay box (black box, front o/s
under the bonnet), but not then getting through to the starter. He told
me exactly which wires to short out to get the car started, and
suggested that it was a faulty relay in the box, and that either
replacing the box or by-passing the relay through an additional external
relay would cure the problem.
I replaced the box, and the problem prevailed.
I wired up an external relay, and it has nearly cured the problem. I
think that it has somethign to do with the engine management
system/immobiliser as well, because on occasions it will still fail to
start, but re-locking the car, leaving it abnout 30 seconds and trying
again has (so far) got it started.
If you want details of the wiring for the external relay, let me know
and I'll send or post them.
Good luck,
Bob
CJ
Dear Bob
I have had exactly the same problem and also found cooling the engine down
helped. Please could you send me the wiring for the external relay as I'm
taking the car to the garage again in the next few days and it would be useful
to give it to them.
Very many thanks
cJ
Many thanks
--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/rover/rover-214-l-hot-re-starting-problem-3290-.htm
Tim+
> replying to Bob, CJ wrote:
> Dear Bob
>
> I have had exactly the same problem and also found cooling the engine down
> helped. Please could you send me the wiring for the external relay as I'm
> taking the car to the garage again in the next few days and it would be useful
> to give it to them.
>
> Very many thanks
>
> cJ
>
>
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
Tim
--
Trolls and troll feeders go in my killfile