instrument cluster / odometer things (WAS steering wheel removal)

[B]

(trying to split the previous thread)

'87 944 na

the face of my instrument cluster housing has mildew on it. however, it appears to have a thin, even coating of some sort as well - that is, it is not a flat plain plastic surface.

do the VDO gauge clusters have such a coating, or is this gunk that has accumulated over many years? I have attempted to wipe it with isopropyl alcohol and it comes off, but the plastic ends up mottled.

is there a recommended solvent or method to clean it?

-Bryan

[Bill]

use soap. there is an anti-glare film on the plastic. if soap doesn't
work, use a plastic cleaner. if the film is bacteria eating the
plastic (this happens) a wash with clorox first will kill the bacteria

[B]

thanks, interesting suggestions.

On Friday, August 17, 2012 11:37:43 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>there is an anti-glare film on the plastic.

can you suggest a product to reapply it?

and how about for the reflective material on the light guides?

[B]

a few things:

On Friday, August 17, 2012 11:37:43 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>there is an anti-glare film on the plastic.

when I went back to the thing, I saw the patterns of spray-through on the rear of the cluster - a clear sign that it was suspended in air without the bezel at the factory and coated.

Clark's garage suggests (inter alia) using Sylvania 158 bulbs (14V 3.4W) for the cluster illumination. The cluster is a 12V system - and Clarks' actually doesn't mention the 14V rating of the bulb. my calcs show an increase in amperage from about 0.166 to 0.268 amps when the 158 bulb is used. What adverse affects might using a 14V bulb cause?

also I broke the hook/tab on one of the wire harnesses - any fix for it?

-Bryan

p.s: everything appears to work as expected after a mile drive. we shall see how the long term goes - thanks for the help!

[Bill]

I would use LEDs for the lighting now - that's what I've done with the
clock - those clock bulbs are a real pain to change (and to find). for
the clock, I used a white LED and a dropping resistor - I tried a "12V
LED" from china, it lasted about 6 months and then started to flicker -
with a regular LED and a dropping resistor, all is good.

hook/tab - probably no reasonable fix, it's an odd plastic - I have had
good luck with the special plastic epoxy that DEVCON makes - it has a
strong smell and really etches into the plastic - but if the part you
are describing is what I think it is, I wouldn't sweat it.

By the way, the usual DME relay failure is a solder joint failure, easy
to fix

[Bill]

there is probably something available from a camera store - at least
that is where I would ask

[B]

On Monday, August 20, 2012 12:56:10 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> I would use LEDs for the lighting now - ... I used a white LED and a dropping > resistor

I never knew a resistor could be used - how do the wires/resistors fit?

> By the way, the usual DME relay failure is a solder joint failure,

oops - seems you caught my (now deleted) hasty email. thanks though - having been there and done that only 2 years ago (and about 4 years before that), I have the old DME relay with a jumper in the glove box - a wonderful thing to have thanks to Clark's Garage.

-Bryan