Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
steering wheel removal '87 944 n.a.
151 views
Skip to first unread message
B
Jul 7, 2012, 1:39:52 PM7/7/12
to
'87 944 n.a.
my wheel has four arms total, two on each side, leading from the wheel inside edge to the center piece. I have been reading this group and the Haynes manual.
I removed the horn cushion (which says "Porsche" in Porsche font).
now I can see down to the large (perhaps 24mm) retaining nut. there is a cage-like cylinder with circular holes lining the inside of this area along the column axis.
however, the direct path to the nut is obstructed by a panel which appears to be riveted in about four places. Are these supposed to be tapped out from the back? the metal panel also appears to be inserted (as if in a guide) in the upper and lower arms that lead to the wheel inside edge. I peeled back the rubber surrounding the column and didn't see much to help. FYI I removed three 8mm screws but they only served as attachment points for the horn cushion.
I have a couple photos I can post on Google+ if needed.
FYI the reasons for removing the steering wheel are :
[1] non-canceling turn signal
[2] broken odometer gear - must remove
[3] want to put new bulbs in the cluster area
[4] any other suggestions while I am at it are appreciated
-Bryan
my wheel has four arms total, two on each side, leading from the wheel inside edge to the center piece. I have been reading this group and the Haynes manual.
I removed the horn cushion (which says "Porsche" in Porsche font).
now I can see down to the large (perhaps 24mm) retaining nut. there is a cage-like cylinder with circular holes lining the inside of this area along the column axis.
however, the direct path to the nut is obstructed by a panel which appears to be riveted in about four places. Are these supposed to be tapped out from the back? the metal panel also appears to be inserted (as if in a guide) in the upper and lower arms that lead to the wheel inside edge. I peeled back the rubber surrounding the column and didn't see much to help. FYI I removed three 8mm screws but they only served as attachment points for the horn cushion.
I have a couple photos I can post on Google+ if needed.
FYI the reasons for removing the steering wheel are :
[1] non-canceling turn signal
[2] broken odometer gear - must remove
[3] want to put new bulbs in the cluster area
[4] any other suggestions while I am at it are appreciated
-Bryan
Bill
Jul 8, 2012, 12:59:28 AM7/8/12
to
to remove the nut with a 1/2 inch drive socket with an extension. there
should be no direct obstruction, there are no rivets or anyting else to
remove. Look in the Porsche service manual, Haynes is pretty worthless.
Travis at Renbay has the odometer gear if memory serves. bulbs can be
replaced from under the dash, you don't need to pull cluster. Be
careful changing the odometer gear, it's easy to damage the speedo.
I've done this exact repair on an 85, an 86, and an 87, and in no case
did I need to remove parts of the steering wheel. It is easier to get
the cluster out with the steering wheel removed, but it is possible to
get it out without removing the wheel. Non-cancelling turn signal is
VERY hard to fix
B
Jul 8, 2012, 7:24:07 AM7/8/12
to nobody_...@gonefishing.con
On Sunday, July 8, 2012 12:59:28 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> the cage like cylinder is the collapsing mechanism. you should be able
> to remove the nut with a 1/2 inch drive socket with an extension. there
> should be no direct obstruction, there are no rivets or anyting else to
> remove. Look in the Porsche service manual, Haynes is pretty worthless.
ok, great - in the meantime, I found this tutorial that covers the wheel and odometer, but on a 928:
> the cage like cylinder is the collapsing mechanism. you should be able
> to remove the nut with a 1/2 inch drive socket with an extension. there
> should be no direct obstruction, there are no rivets or anyting else to
> remove. Look in the Porsche service manual, Haynes is pretty worthless.
http://www.rennbay.com/odotutorial.html
my wheel looks like the one in figure 3 and 5. I'll have another go.
> Travis at Renbay has the odometer gear if memory serves. [...]
[ new thread? ]
I have read most (all?) of the tutorials on the internet (odometergears.com, kla, rennbay, clark's-garage.com...) , and I am still wondering about maintaining the calibration of the speedometer and odometer through the whole thing. is this a concern, and what caveats/suggestions are there about this? the tutorials never mention this besides number alignment. in particular it seems pulling the needle off of the spindle seems to me dangerous in this sense.
>Non-cancelling turn signal is
> VERY hard to fix
Bill
Jul 12, 2012, 12:01:48 AM7/12/12
to
not like older cars, just be VERY careful pulling the pointer off, the
rest is easy. Do not scratch the gauge face. if in doubt, put
cardboard or something over it to protect it while pulling pointer.
B
Jul 12, 2012, 1:10:29 PM7/12/12
to nobody_...@gonefishing.con
On Thursday, July 12, 2012 12:01:48 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> don't worry [...]
thanks Bill.
another question about the cluster operation is about the computer, specifically is there a mileage stored in its memory?
I don't have any equipment to communicate with the computer (yet).
-Bryan
> don't worry [...]
thanks Bill.
another question about the cluster operation is about the computer, specifically is there a mileage stored in its memory?
I don't have any equipment to communicate with the computer (yet).
-Bryan
Bill
Jul 13, 2012, 12:34:10 AM7/13/12
to
computer adjustments of instrument cluster
B
Jul 21, 2012, 9:31:34 AM7/21/12
to
AFAIK only one gear in the cluster tends break (due to lubricant-induced urethane decomposition) - why is that? wouldn't each gear be manufactured and function identically?
Bill
Jul 21, 2012, 6:45:09 PM7/21/12
to
On 7/21/2012 6:31 AM, B wrote:
> AFAIK only one gear in the cluster tends break (due to lubricant-induced urethane decomposition) - why is that? wouldn't each gear be manufactured and function identically?
>
the one gear that breaks is made of a yellow material that crumbles,
> AFAIK only one gear in the cluster tends break (due to lubricant-induced urethane decomposition) - why is that? wouldn't each gear be manufactured and function identically?
>
very different material from all the other gears. the replacement gear
is made of a white plastic
B
Jul 21, 2012, 7:46:28 PM7/21/12
to nobody_...@gonefishing.con
On Saturday, July 21, 2012 6:45:09 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> the one gear that breaks is made of a yellow material that crumbles,
> very different material from all the other gears. the replacement gear
> is made of a white plastic
exactly - I do not at all understand why the instrument would be designed like that in the first place (of course there could be a reason...). just curious.
> the one gear that breaks is made of a yellow material that crumbles,
> very different material from all the other gears. the replacement gear
> is made of a white plastic
Bill
Jul 22, 2012, 4:35:10 PM7/22/12
to
tolerances and to damp out any click sound from the stepping motor
B
Aug 12, 2012, 12:51:07 AM8/12/12
to
OK, I got to the speedo - the face seems a little sticky. Vinyl gloves left marks on it. Any suggestions to clean it?
And what about using a tool to push the needle off - is it better to use my fingers?
Also what about cleaning the residual original lube off the gears before putting in the new one - Celcon - which does NOT need lube?
And what about using a tool to push the needle off - is it better to use my fingers?
Also what about cleaning the residual original lube off the gears before putting in the new one - Celcon - which does NOT need lube?
Bill
Aug 12, 2012, 3:49:08 PM8/12/12
to
2. I use diagonal cutters with a piece of wood, or a pair of
screwdrivers with a two pieces of wood - don't use your fingers if you
want to reuse the speedo - there are tools for pulling the needle, you
could get one from harbor freight
3. clean old lube off, add new - I use lubriplate. don't add too much.
B
Aug 12, 2012, 8:12:43 PM8/12/12
to
Uh oh - I got the needle off with no apparent damage - can the speedo be tested with a drill? I read about that for a 914 I think.
B
Aug 15, 2012, 9:23:17 PM8/15/12
to
somewhat more on-topically: to get the steering wheel off, it was helpful to use a "Club" security bar to provide counter force to the socket.
Bill
Aug 17, 2012, 11:36:29 AM8/17/12
to
On 8/12/2012 5:12 PM, B wrote:
> Uh oh - I got the needle off with no apparent damage - can the speedo be tested with a drill? I read about that for a 914 I think.
>
absolutely not. it is electronic, not mechanical.
> Uh oh - I got the needle off with no apparent damage - can the speedo be tested with a drill? I read about that for a 914 I think.
>
0 new messages