power window motor

[njot]

Does anyone on the list know how to replace a power window motor on a
Cutlass Ciera/Buick Century? I can't figure out how to get the old
one out and put the new one in.
Thanks.

[Reed]

I just did the drivers door on my 94 Ciera.

Basically you need to:
1. remove all the door panels, etc. Tape the glass to the frame in the
up position with as much duct tape as needed. Unbolt the white plastic
"sash" from the glass (2 bolts)
2. punch and drill the rivets for the regulator (tape) track with a 1/4"
drill (4 places)
3. drill the rivets holding motor to regulator with 3/16" drill(3
places) Be careful to note which holes were used so you know which holes
to use on new motor !!
4. unplug motor wire harness

Reverse above to install new motor.

If you do not have access to a heavy-duty 1/4" pop-rivet tool (I did),
Nuts and bolts might work if kept short, and of a locking (NyLoc ?) type

Have fun

[njot]

Luckily this is car is also a 94 so it would be the same as what you
just did.
The motor did not stop working, it is just slow and tends to stall
going up and down. I thought the track where the tape drive slides
through just needed lubrication, but the motor still gets slow and
stalls sometimes. Then when it sits for a minute, it starts working
again, but only rolls the window up or down part way.

So basically the entire tape drive track needs to be disconnected from
the door?
What is weird is that it looks like the back end of the rivets face
out. These aren't rivet heads with a dimple in them, which is what
I'm used to seeing. About a 1/8" piece of the rivet sticks out. I
guess this is what I have to punch (or hit with the head of a hammer?)
before drilling it out?

It's unfortunate they did not make this a little easier to do.

[Reed]

njot wrote:
> Luckily this is car is also a 94 so it would be the same as what you
> just did.
> The motor did not stop working, it is just slow and tends to stall
> going up and down. I thought the track where the tape drive slides
> through just needed lubrication, but the motor still gets slow and
> stalls sometimes. Then when it sits for a minute, it starts working
> again, but only rolls the window up or down part way.
>
> So basically the entire tape drive track needs to be disconnected from
> the door?
> What is weird is that it looks like the back end of the rivets face
> out. These aren't rivet heads with a dimple in them, which is what
> I'm used to seeing. About a 1/8" piece of the rivet sticks out. I
> guess this is what I have to punch (or hit with the head of a hammer?)
> before drilling it out?
>

> snip

I had exactly the same symptoms re stalling. My 94
GMC Jimmy also did this a year ago, same driver's
door that gets most used (Same motor except
gear-type regulator)

You are correct about the large rivets. You need
to punch out the center pin ( large nail might
help if no punch) , then drill it. The 1/4" rivets
are different in that respect from the 3/16"

I believe the motors are made to bind up after 10
years or so to keep NAPA, Checker, etc in
business. I paid $54 for new, not reman, at
Carquest for mine.

--Reed

[njot]

Yep, mine was $55 at Auto Zone.
This is why I like regular crank windows better.
Unfortunately you can't get them on most newer (post-1990) cars.

> --Reed- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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