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Heater Dial Malfunctioning (1997 Sentra)

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Joe AutoDrill

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Oct 11, 2010, 9:00:25 AM10/11/10
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Okay, so it's getting a bit colder here. Hit 38 the night before last and
we may actually have to turn the heat on in the house soon.

...But I've got a new issue with the car that just won't die. The twist
knob that adjusts the fan setting for AC, fan or heat works great! ...But
the contacts must be wearing off or a fuse gone because setting 1 and 2 do
not work. That means when I want just a little bit of heat once the engine
is warm, I can choose 3 or 4 or turn down the temperature.

Anyone know what causes this to happen and maybe how to fix it?

I was fine with 1 not working. ...But now that 2 has disappeared, I'm
starting to worry about winter if 3 and 4 go bad too... That would force me
to bundle up quite a bit and/or get a new car or 12V heater...

If it matters, it is a 1997 Nissan Sentra with 207,000 on it. Other than
minor stuff like this, it runs like a top and doesn't eat a bit of oil. The
back doors are stiff from never taking on passengers and I'm convinced it'll
be another car, a deer or rust that eventually makes this commuter's dream
car die.

...Or lack of heat on a 10 degree morning!

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
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V8013-R


E. Meyer

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Oct 11, 2010, 4:11:46 PM10/11/10
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On 10/11/10 8:00 AM, in article 0UDso.7325$W96....@newsfe08.iad, "Joe
AutoDrill" <auto...@yunx.com> wrote:

Usually it will be the resistor pack that controls the fan speeds, though I
have seen the same symptom caused by burned contacts in the switch.

The resistor pack will be a little block screwed into the air box, behind
the glove box. Look for a connector with four or five wires. Its not the
end at the fan, but out by itself on the air box. Usually held in by a
screw on each end. You should be able to pick one up from the local junk
yard relatively cheap.

If that doesn't fix it, take apart the dash switch and look for burned
contacts. If its the switch, it'll be obvious when you take it apart.
Repair by replacing the switch (same junk yard, probably from the same car).

Joe AutoDrill

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Oct 11, 2010, 4:19:42 PM10/11/10
to
> Usually it will be the resistor pack that controls the fan speeds, though
> I
> have seen the same symptom caused by burned contacts in the switch.
>
> The resistor pack will be a little block screwed into the air box, behind
> the glove box. Look for a connector with four or five wires. Its not the
> end at the fan, but out by itself on the air box. Usually held in by a
> screw on each end. You should be able to pick one up from the local junk
> yard relatively cheap.
>
> If that doesn't fix it, take apart the dash switch and look for burned
> contacts. If its the switch, it'll be obvious when you take it apart.
> Repair by replacing the switch (same junk yard, probably from the same
> car).

Excellent advice...

Did I mention that junk yards are virtually non-existant in NJ? :(

I'll find the part that is bad, maybe order *both* in case from an on-line
junk yard and pray the electrical gremlins don't strike my used part.
--

Plague Boy

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Oct 11, 2010, 10:57:10 PM10/11/10
to
On 10/11/10 4:19 PM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
>> Usually it will be the resistor pack that controls the fan speeds, though
>> I
>> have seen the same symptom caused by burned contacts in the switch.
>>
>> The resistor pack will be a little block screwed into the air box, behind
>> the glove box. Look for a connector with four or five wires. Its not the
>> end at the fan, but out by itself on the air box. Usually held in by a
>> screw on each end. You should be able to pick one up from the local junk
>> yard relatively cheap.
>>
>> If that doesn't fix it, take apart the dash switch and look for burned
>> contacts. If its the switch, it'll be obvious when you take it apart.
>> Repair by replacing the switch (same junk yard, probably from the same
>> car).
>
> Excellent advice...
>
> Did I mention that junk yards are virtually non-existant in NJ? :(
>
> I'll find the part that is bad, maybe order *both* in case from an on-line
> junk yard and pray the electrical gremlins don't strike my used part.

My '92 Sentra has 178K on it and still runs great, and no, it was not
"lovingly maintained" by it's previous owner. I suspect the rust will
make it un-inspect-able in the next year or so, but it doesn't owe me
anything.

The first year I got it, the blower resistor failed. I bought a new
one, locally I think, for about $25.00. Personally, I would not bother
with a used one, you (or somebody, maybe me) may still be driving this
car in five years. It's not a lot of work to change the resistor, but
still.....

The switch, I can't say. I would put in a new resistor and see if that
fixes it.

PB

D.

unread,
Oct 12, 2010, 7:58:53 AM10/12/10
to
I had the same problem with
my Frontier . E.Meyer was right
on with his advice .
I would not waste time with
a used one as it could also be
no good .
D.

"Joe AutoDrill" <auto...@yunx.com> wrote in message
news:0UDso.7325$W96....@newsfe08.iad...

Jim Yanik

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Oct 12, 2010, 12:28:52 PM10/12/10
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"Joe AutoDrill" <auto...@yunx.com> wrote in
news:RjKso.1783$hb....@newsfe12.iad:

>> Usually it will be the resistor pack that controls the fan speeds,
>> though I
>> have seen the same symptom caused by burned contacts in the switch.
>>
>> The resistor pack will be a little block screwed into the air box,
>> behind the glove box. Look for a connector with four or five wires.
>> Its not the end at the fan, but out by itself on the air box.
>> Usually held in by a screw on each end. You should be able to pick
>> one up from the local junk yard relatively cheap.
>>
>> If that doesn't fix it, take apart the dash switch and look for
>> burned contacts. If its the switch, it'll be obvious when you take
>> it apart. Repair by replacing the switch (same junk yard, probably
>> from the same car).
>
> Excellent advice...
>
> Did I mention that junk yards are virtually non-existant in NJ? :(
>
> I'll find the part that is bad, maybe order *both* in case from an
> on-line junk yard and pray the electrical gremlins don't strike my
> used part.

if you're ordering online,check out new parts prices,too.
there may not be that much difference,especially if you can get aftermarket
parts.
I saved hundreds on a MAF sensor for my 03 Sentra SpecV by looking around
and finding the sensor itself without the housing that most places include
as part of the MAF unit. $400 for the sensor and housing,$80 for sensor
alone. Crazy.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

Joe AutoDrill

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Oct 12, 2010, 12:34:08 PM10/12/10
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Thanks for all the great tips folks. I'll have to find the time to do it
now, but at least I have an avenue to hopeful repair. :)

Joe AutoDrill

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Oct 12, 2010, 12:34:08 PM10/12/10
to
Thanks for all the great tips folks. I'll have to find the time to do it
now, but at least I have an avenue to hopeful repair. :)

Regards,

R P

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Oct 20, 2010, 10:57:23 PM10/20/10
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I had the same problem with my 1986 hardbody pu and I checked the
resistors behind the GB and was told by an electrician friend to bring
him the motor.He opened it up and cleaned the commutator? (not sure if
thats what its called,the windings in the motor) and everything worked
fine.Doesn't make sense to me but thats what happened.

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