On checking online I found the each of these outer boots cost about
$20.
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/eautopartstore/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=eautopartstore&clientid=eautopartstore&baseurl=http://www.eautopartstore.com/&cookieid=1PK0S06X71PK0S0E0U&year=1999&make=NI&model=MAX-GXE-002&category=All&part=C.V.+Boot+Kit
I would like to know what is a reasonable price to have both the boots
changed. Does labor cost $400 for these if the cost of each boot is
only $20x4=$80.
I would appreciate if you could answer the following:
1) Should both the outer and inner CV boots be replaced when replacing
either one of them.
2)How many hours of labor does this require. Would it be cheaper if I
just bought these boots online and then have a mechanic replace them.
3) Are the CV boots usually re-manufactured and NOT new ones.
Thanks.
Survesh
99 Nissan Maxima GXE
72K miles
I can see (per axle): 30min for removal/installation, and 30min for
boot replacement (so 60min if you want inner and outer). This is why
buying a reman axle makes a lot of sense.
Also consider buying reman'd axles from your local auto parts store or
www.raxles.com. Since the boot is already torn, there is a risk of the
grease getting dirtied and damaging the bearing inside. Unless this
tear is obviously fresh, the reman axle is a extra insurance against
that complication.
>
> I would appreciate if you could answer the following:
> 1) Should both the outer and inner CV boots be replaced when replacing
> either one of them.
The outers tend to fail first, but I would have them both done.
> 2)How many hours of labor does this require. Would it be cheaper if I
> just bought these boots online and then have a mechanic replace them.
I can do mine in about an hour.
> 3) Are the CV boots usually re-manufactured and NOT new ones.
Boots are just rubber, so they are new. Axles (with new boots) are
remanufactured.
Dave
That's if I did just the outer boots, and per side. It's a real messy
job, changing the boots.
Dave
Sit by in the shop and watch... that pays: you see what is done, airbags can not be stolen, car will not be used on race track etc etc... Summarum: you get what u pay. If not, demand used parts as they are yours; its harder to scam you. The job should be 2-3hour job depending what is done, how it goes. DIY time is 2x...
If u keep the car: Change both boots and also tranny O-ring seals (latter buy from dealer as there are myriad possibilities to get them wrong size, that hazzle WILL cost).
Old rubber parts is/should not ever be used neither sold.
If you have driven 100miles or over with ripped boots, dirt is in and has already spoiled the joints. Will start wearing and fast: buy whole new axles, 100$ ea. ...that is, if u keep the car.
I think here might lurk the worst problem: For axles be prepared; there are multiple types of axles looking equal -which will not fit-, or will cause 'mystical' problems with VLSD, ABS, Trannyleak or whatever. Use professional help for accepting the new axle and demand answers why the installer thinks the new axles fit exact before acceptance.
- Dont save, if u keep the car.
- Dont throw money to stealersink, no fun for driver:)
--
Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
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