2001 Nissan Maxima dashboard dash light shows brake and battery symbols??
patty...@hotmail.com
battery symbol??
Went away on trip. Left car at airport. Car's battery was replaced from
Batteries Plus+ about 2 years ago.
Car runs fine and I stop and shut off car. After I turn car on, I
notice the "brake" text appearing on dash (instrument panel) and a
picture of a battery.
I shut off and turn on car. Symbols still there. I tighten hand brake
and loosen-still got brake light.
Soon car dies.
Had to get car jumped. Made it very slowly (guess it has electric fuel
pump) to an auto store about to close. I got a new battery and put it
in.
Indicator lights above (brake and battery icon) still on dash.
Car seems fine but I wonder IF:
1. Computer stored settings and they have not cleared the battery and
brake symbols/light on dash. Should I unplug battery and leave off
overnight to clear computer?
2. Perhaps I have a bad alternator. (I have no volt meter to
test-willing to bring it in to repair place, but would like some advice
first).
Ideas?
I have no clue about the brake light. Had brakes done about 8 months
ago.
Thank you
Patty
patty...@hotmail.com
and can I trust a non-Nissan shop to do this or best I let Nissan do it
(had bad experiences b4 with others doing the brakes since they did not
use Nissan brake pads)?
Thanks, Patty
JimV
on both lights. You should consider a Nissan rebuilt alternator as many
of the cheap rebuilts don't last very long.
cmdrdata
patty...@hotmail.com wrote:
> 2001 Nissan Maxima dashboard dash light shows the word brake and a
> battery symbol??
>
This is a classic alternator going bad problem. To verify, just hook up
a voltmeter to the battery terminals with the engine running, and
you'll probably get 12 volts or less. A good alternator will generate a
charging voltage of 13.5 to 14 volts. Thats the reason the battery lite
comes on. The brake warning lite also comes on because of the low
voltage on the brake sensor. This happened to my 2K Max, and a new
battery at least got me home without having to have it towed. BTW, I
installed an AutoZone alternator a year ago and it still worked fine.
patty...@hotmail.com
the battery lights do not come on. So not sure what to think at this
point.
I could of course buy a voltmeter and hook it up and look for the
charging voltage. Guess you cannot unhook the battery after cranking
and check voltage since you will lose the negative ground probably.
Ideas on the above and also that light is not appearing now?????
Should I wait for it to appear again?
Brake fluid is fine.
Thanks, Patty
Wiikinki
- dont disconnect batt while engine running, possibly fries some electronics
- charge voltage is seen on batt while idling. Nissan FSM says 13.8-14.7V is ok. - (14.8V is already boiling battery...)
- 10$ gauge investment is a must. (remember the cheap dmm's may be unreliable)
- the copper dust worn from alt/brushes (plus all dirt) 'fills' the alt inside 'after 60k'. This may form 'bridges' enhancing alt charge/discharge /rectifier diode etc -characteristics. Remedy: open, clean, swap 5$brushes
The alt is structurally almost like this; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_488.jpg
--
Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
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patty...@hotmail.com
running and when car was off. Slightly higher when car was running.
Voltage went up when I revved engine (pulling on accelerator cable) so
that seems good.
So all in all, things seem okay but I do not think I am out of the
woods since light did come on yesterday and now all seems okay.....I
need some consistency but hate (am unemployed) to invest in an
alternator if it appears to be working.
****Anyone know where the plug is to disconnect the alternator to test
further????
Thanks,
Patty
azf713
The alternator was bad. What is happening is the alternator is not fully
charging the battery, and the voltage being sensed in the ABS is low, so the
brake light comes on as well.
Replaced the alternator, and the problem went away.
Good luck.
Z
<patty...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1151795642.6...@h44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
NissTech
Be sure to use an OEM part or..............
Anyone care to fill in the blank?
<patty...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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patty...@hotmail.com
be working okay for the last 2 days?
Thanks,
Patty
Steve T
> Thanks. Now after the car sitting idle for about 5 hours, the brake and
> the battery lights do not come on. So not sure what to think at this
> point.
Normal when the alternator is dying.
> Should I wait for it to appear again?
>
I wouldn't. I also wouldn't use anything other than a nissan reman but if
you enjoy replacing alternators, the parts store ones are cheaper..
--
Steve
Wiikinki
- dont disconnect batt while engine running, possibly fries some electronics
- charge voltage is seen on batt while idling. Nissan FSM says 13.8-14.7V is ok. - (14.8V is already boiling battery...)
- 10$ gauge investment is a must. (remember the cheap dmm's may be unreliable)
- the copper dust worn from alt/brushes (plus all dirt) 'fills' the alt inside 'after 60k'. This may form 'bridges' enhancing alt charge/discharge /rectifier diode etc -characteristics. Remedy: open, clean, swap 5$brushes
The alt is structurally almost like this; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Pics: Alt rectifier diode and dirt accumulation...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_488.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_487.jpg
Wiikinki
If one rectifier diode is blown [or dust shorting it], the alt may well be pushing half rectified AC into system. No good for batt. Only way to make sure is with an oscilloscope as dmm always shows something when measured in AC-scale.
Connectors: If u follow via the 'Favorite Links' youll find all detail info + alt assembly pics.... Go peek under the vehicle, pass side after taking splash shields out: there are the supply connectors.
I suggested cleanin the alt - dirt cheap:) no harm done.
--
Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
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AS
What you measured with the volmeter seems pretty normal to me.
Given that the problem is intermittent, I would check all the field
connections to the alternator, those are the connections that tell the
alternator to charge and normally come from the ignition and are the
thin wires getting to it. While at it, check the fuses related to the
alternator too.
I assume you discarded the possibility of having low brake fluid level.
The behaviour you describe, some days on, etc. is typical of low brake
fluid level too.
Good luck
patty...@hotmail.com
the Maxima. Voltage is correctly reading now when car on and loaded
with AC and radio and lights on....... Learned a lot.
Next thing I think is perhaps a pulley-hear a slight metallic grinding
noise some times when I turn A/C on. Lasts about 3 seconds (on
occasion) after I start car.
Take care
Patty
_____________________________________
AS wrote:
> Patty:
>
> What you measured with the voltmeter seems pretty normal to me.
>
> Given that the problem is intermittent, I would check all the field
> connections to the alternator, those are the connections that tell the
> alternator to charge and normally come from the ignition and are the
> thin wires getting to it. While at it, check the fuses related to the
> alternator too.
>
> I assume you discarded the possibility of having low brake fluid level.
> The behavior you describe, some days on, etc. is typical of low brake
tige...@gmail.com
patty...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Thanks all. Got a rebuilt Bosch alternator for $360 including labor for
> the Maxima. Voltage is correctly reading now when car on and loaded
> with AC and radio and lights on....... Learned a lot.
>
> Next thing I think is perhaps a pulley-hear a slight metallic grinding
> noise some times when I turn A/C on. Lasts about 3 seconds (on
> occasion) after I start car.
>
> Take care
> Patty
>
>
> _____________________________________
Is it a metallic grind or a high pitched squeal?? It seems the mechanic
who replaced the alternator did not properly tighten the belt. Offset
should be between 1/8 and 1/4 inch.
Mike