Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Hyundai Santa Fe engine running hot.
841 views
Skip to first unread message
Alfonso
Aug 29, 2013, 12:18:04 PM8/29/13
to
Hyundai Santa Fe 2001 2,7 GLS/ Engine overheating because engine
compartment extreme hot cannot touch even the battery, temperature gauge reads
normal. I need to know how to check the water pump. I have a cracked rubber
seal under radiator cap, can this cause the problem.
--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/hyundai/hyundai-santa-fe-engine-running-hot-24892-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.hyundai and other automotive groups
compartment extreme hot cannot touch even the battery, temperature gauge reads
normal. I need to know how to check the water pump. I have a cracked rubber
seal under radiator cap, can this cause the problem.
--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/hyundai/hyundai-santa-fe-engine-running-hot-24892-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.hyundai and other automotive groups
hyundaitech
Aug 29, 2013, 1:08:07 PM8/29/13
to
Coolant temperature is the best measurement of engine temperature. If your gauge shows normal temperature and is accurate, your engine is not running too hot. Is your coolant at the proper level? If you get an air pocket in the system, this can cause the gauge to read too low.
It is normal for everything in the engine compartment attached to the radiator or engine to be too hot to touch. Is the battery in physical contact with the radiator? Even if not, it will get hot just from convection.
It is normal for everything in the engine compartment attached to the radiator or engine to be too hot to touch. Is the battery in physical contact with the radiator? Even if not, it will get hot just from convection.
Alfonso
Aug 29, 2013, 5:19:01 PM8/29/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
I don't trust the temp. gauge. About to weeks ago while on the road the top
radiator hose developed a leak and there was no indication that anything was
wrong until the engine started making a sound that sounded like little knocks
and then it quit, the water temperature gauge showed that the temp. was
normal. How can I check the temp. gauge or the sender? How can I check the
water bump?
How does the thermostat in the radiator cap work? The rubber seal under this
cap is torn, can that cause a problem?
Thanks
radiator hose developed a leak and there was no indication that anything was
wrong until the engine started making a sound that sounded like little knocks
and then it quit, the water temperature gauge showed that the temp. was
normal. How can I check the temp. gauge or the sender? How can I check the
water bump?
How does the thermostat in the radiator cap work? The rubber seal under this
cap is torn, can that cause a problem?
Thanks
hyundaitech
Aug 29, 2013, 7:55:47 PM8/29/13
to
In the case of the hose leak, the gauge may have not read hot because there was then insufficient coolant in contact with the sensor. Unfortunately, running hot can damage the sensor. I haven't seen this much on Hyundais, but it does happen. And worse, considering your description, the engine maybe damaged from overheating.
You can check the sensor itself by comparing its resistance to the specified resistance at the temperature of the coolant. You can also attach a scan tool and read the coolant temperature from the engine control module (which uses a separate sensor element) and compare it to the gauge reading. You'll probably need to take the car to a shop to accomplish this method.
Presuming they are both functioning, the easiest way to check the water pump and thermostat is to check for coolant flow. Start the engine cold with the heater and a/c off. The radiator hoses will be cold. As the engine warms up, the upper radiator hose should get hot first. As it reaches proper operating temperature, the thermostat will open, allowing coolant flow. At that time the lower radiator hose should be as hot as the upper radiator hose. The fans should start running to manage the coolant temperature. As long as the fans continue to cycle on and off (slow speed, not high) while the vehicle is idling, it's a reasonable assumption that the basics of the cooling system (thermostat, water pump, fans) are working properly. The fans coming on indicate the ECM is attempting to keep the coolant temperature low enough, and the fans turning off indicates that the coolant did indeed cool down a bit.
There is no thermostat in the radiator cap. It releases coolant via a pressure valve. Most are around 1 bar. It allows coolant back in from the reservoir via a valve that opens when a vacuum is created in the radiator.
The torn gasket on the cap can cause a leak. Even if it's not leaking now, I'd replace the cap. It's too cheap to take the chance.
Nonetheless, I stress that things under the hood being hot is not an abnormal condition and does not necessarily indicate an overheating condition.
You can check the sensor itself by comparing its resistance to the specified resistance at the temperature of the coolant. You can also attach a scan tool and read the coolant temperature from the engine control module (which uses a separate sensor element) and compare it to the gauge reading. You'll probably need to take the car to a shop to accomplish this method.
Presuming they are both functioning, the easiest way to check the water pump and thermostat is to check for coolant flow. Start the engine cold with the heater and a/c off. The radiator hoses will be cold. As the engine warms up, the upper radiator hose should get hot first. As it reaches proper operating temperature, the thermostat will open, allowing coolant flow. At that time the lower radiator hose should be as hot as the upper radiator hose. The fans should start running to manage the coolant temperature. As long as the fans continue to cycle on and off (slow speed, not high) while the vehicle is idling, it's a reasonable assumption that the basics of the cooling system (thermostat, water pump, fans) are working properly. The fans coming on indicate the ECM is attempting to keep the coolant temperature low enough, and the fans turning off indicates that the coolant did indeed cool down a bit.
There is no thermostat in the radiator cap. It releases coolant via a pressure valve. Most are around 1 bar. It allows coolant back in from the reservoir via a valve that opens when a vacuum is created in the radiator.
The torn gasket on the cap can cause a leak. Even if it's not leaking now, I'd replace the cap. It's too cheap to take the chance.
Nonetheless, I stress that things under the hood being hot is not an abnormal condition and does not necessarily indicate an overheating condition.
Alfonso
Aug 29, 2013, 10:18:02 PM8/29/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
> hyundaimech wrote:
> ...
> hyundaimech wrote:
> Nonetheless, I stress that things under the hood being hot is not an >
abnormal condition and does not necessarily indicate an overheating condition.
I'm in a third world country and scanners are scarce. Your explanation was
abnormal condition and does not necessarily indicate an overheating condition.
very enlightening and thanks to you I think I fully understand the cooling
system of this vehicle. I confused the pressure valve on the radiator cap for
a mechanical thermostat. I have two more questions: Where is the coolant
temperature sensor that operated the gauge located? And do you know (or could
find out) what its resistance should be at the boiling point of water? Thanks
a lot, am gonna start the thermostat, water pump fans test right now. Thanks
again
hyundaitech
Aug 30, 2013, 12:29:55 PM8/30/13
to
The engine coolant temperature sensor/sender is located under the ignition coil, either in the side of the cylinder head or in the coolant manifold -- it's been a while since I've replaced one, so I don't remember, and the picture I have available isn't clear.
Because of the location, you'll want to test while the engine is cool rather than hot.
To test the sensor for the computer, check the resistance between the outer two terminals. The specifications are as follows:
-20C 14.13-16.83 Ohm
0C 5.79 Ohm
20C 2.31-2.59 Ohm
40C 1.00-1.30 Ohm
60C 0.57-0.61 Ohm
80C 0.31-0.33 Ohm
Unfortunately, I don't see in the shop manual a specification chart for the sender for the gauge. You'd test at the same sensor, but you'd check the resistance between the middle terminal and the sensor base or engine.
You should be able to access the service information at www.hmaservice.com or www.hyundaitechinfo.com once you register with the site.
Because of the location, you'll want to test while the engine is cool rather than hot.
To test the sensor for the computer, check the resistance between the outer two terminals. The specifications are as follows:
-20C 14.13-16.83 Ohm
0C 5.79 Ohm
20C 2.31-2.59 Ohm
40C 1.00-1.30 Ohm
60C 0.57-0.61 Ohm
80C 0.31-0.33 Ohm
Unfortunately, I don't see in the shop manual a specification chart for the sender for the gauge. You'd test at the same sensor, but you'd check the resistance between the middle terminal and the sensor base or engine.
You should be able to access the service information at www.hmaservice.com or www.hyundaitechinfo.com once you register with the site.
Alfonso
Aug 30, 2013, 4:18:00 PM8/30/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
cycled on and off as you said, I guess this mean that everything is working
ok...
Do you know where I can get information on an Isuzu C201....I have a
generator powered by this engine and it is passing fuel into the base.
Some one suggested the injectors but the engine cranks and runs beautifully no
smoke, everything seems fine just that it fills the base up with diesel pretty
fast.
hyundaitech
Aug 30, 2013, 8:27:46 PM8/30/13
to
Both fans should operate. If only one operates, you should check the fan fuse, relay, and motor for the one not working.
I don't have a source for Isuzu information. But if this engine has a fuel pump driven by the engine (typically camshaft), I'd check to see if fuel is leaking through the pump diaphragm into the crankcase.
I don't have a source for Isuzu information. But if this engine has a fuel pump driven by the engine (typically camshaft), I'd check to see if fuel is leaking through the pump diaphragm into the crankcase.
Alfonso
Aug 30, 2013, 10:18:01 PM8/30/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
the AC off?
hyundaitech
Aug 31, 2013, 3:58:55 PM8/31/13
to
I thought you were describing the a/c fan initially, so that's why I thought the other should run as well. The a/c fan may not come on unless the engine reaches a second threshold temperature. If they both run when the a/c is on and one of them cycles when the a/c is off, I'll accept that as evidence they're working normally.
Alfonso
Aug 31, 2013, 6:18:00 PM8/31/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
charge so i replaced it with a new one but now the fuel gauge does not work,
there's gas in the tank.
Is there a fuse that I can check, in other words is there a fuse associated
with the fuel gauge?
If there's one , where is it located?
Can you provide a wiring diagram or schematic of the circuitry involved with
the fuel gauge.
Alfonso
Aug 31, 2013, 9:18:00 PM8/31/13
to
replying to Alfonso, Alfonso wrote:
will need your help to obtain the electrical diagram that I need to repair my
fuel gauge problem. Thank you.
> Alfonso wrote:
>
> I hope you don't get tired of my questions! The old battery could not hold a
> charge so i replaced it with a new one but now the fuel gauge does not work,
> there's gas in the tank.
> Is there a fuse that I can check, in other words is there a fuse associated
> with the fuel gauge?
> If there's one , where is it located?
> Can you provide a wiring diagram or schematic of the circuitry involved with
the
> fuel gauge.
I cannot access either of the sites you gave me in the previous answer. I
>
> I hope you don't get tired of my questions! The old battery could not hold a
> charge so i replaced it with a new one but now the fuel gauge does not work,
> there's gas in the tank.
> Is there a fuse that I can check, in other words is there a fuse associated
> with the fuel gauge?
> If there's one , where is it located?
> Can you provide a wiring diagram or schematic of the circuitry involved with
the
> fuel gauge.
will need your help to obtain the electrical diagram that I need to repair my
fuel gauge problem. Thank you.
Alfonso
Sep 4, 2013, 11:17:59 AM9/4/13
to
replying to Alfonso, Alfonso wrote:
> Alfonso wrote:
>
> the
> Alfonso wrote:
>
> I cannot access either of the sites you gave me in the previous answer. I
will
> need your help to obtain the electrical diagram that I need to repair my fuel
> gauge problem. Thank you.
Good Morning, I need some help on solving a fuel gauge problem.
will
> need your help to obtain the electrical diagram that I need to repair my fuel
> gauge problem. Thank you.
Gauge was working fine until I changed the battery, now with gasoline in the
tank the Gauge marks empty.
I would like to know if there's a fuse associated with this circuit.
I would also like to have a diagram for the fuel gauge circuit.
I'm unable to access the Hyundai support sites you referred to in a previous
post, I believe it is because the system detects that my IP address is from
outside the USA?. Can You help?
My car is a Hyundai Santa Fe 2001, 2.7 Automatic
Thanks.
hyundaitech
Sep 5, 2013, 1:06:46 PM9/5/13
to
I'm not readily able to provide a schematic, as I'd be using the one on the sites listed.
The circuit is relatively simple.
The gauge itself has a power, ground, and signal. All the gauges are powered and grounded at the same location, so if the other gauges are working properly, you already know it's not the power fuse or ground lug.
The signal wire runs through two sending units in series and then to a ground point. An open circuit will cause the gauge to read empty, and a short to ground will cause it to read full. You can access the senders by removing the rear seats and opening the flaps in the carpet to expose access panels.
Usually, one of the senders is open. Unplug one of the senders and jumper the two wires together. If the gauge comes off empty, that sender is open and needs to be replaced. If it stays on empty, try the other sender. If neither of these indicates the issue, you could have a gauge or wiring problem.
On the passenger side the sender wires are blue and blue/orange. On the driver's side, it'll be the two thinner wires, one blue and one black.
The circuit is relatively simple.
The gauge itself has a power, ground, and signal. All the gauges are powered and grounded at the same location, so if the other gauges are working properly, you already know it's not the power fuse or ground lug.
The signal wire runs through two sending units in series and then to a ground point. An open circuit will cause the gauge to read empty, and a short to ground will cause it to read full. You can access the senders by removing the rear seats and opening the flaps in the carpet to expose access panels.
Usually, one of the senders is open. Unplug one of the senders and jumper the two wires together. If the gauge comes off empty, that sender is open and needs to be replaced. If it stays on empty, try the other sender. If neither of these indicates the issue, you could have a gauge or wiring problem.
On the passenger side the sender wires are blue and blue/orange. On the driver's side, it'll be the two thinner wires, one blue and one black.
Alfonso
Sep 5, 2013, 9:17:58 PM9/5/13
to
replying to hyundaitech , Alfonso wrote:
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
> hyundaimech wrote:
>
the trip meter to keep track of the miles. Yesterday it started working again.
I did nothing to fix it so maybe the problem will return but this time I'll be
ready thanks to your valuable information.
I love this old car......Thank you very much....
0 new messages