Cranshaft Sensor Replacement -- 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L

[TomR]

I posted previously about this on 8/4/2016, subject: "Check Engine light
after starter replacement".

But, I decided to start a new thread about replacing the crankshaft sensor.
Here is what I found out before:

“I took it to AutoZone and the test print-out said:

Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)

Error Code: P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction.

Code P0335 indicates a fault in the Crankshaft Position Sensor "A"
electrical circuit for a predetermined period of time.”

Now, I am trying to get an idea of how hard it is to replace the CPS on this
particular vehicle. My vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD 3.5L V-6
engine.

I finally found some photos online to show where the CPS is on my vehicle,
and I looked at the vehicle today to confirm it. It looks like for this
vehicle the CPS is located inside the timing cover. And, I think, but I am
not sure, that taking the timing cover off in this vehicle is a fairly big
job. At least, when I watch videos for timing belt replacement on this
vehicle, it shows a big job just trying to get to the timing belt.

Here is what I found as far as locating the CPS on my vehicle.

One end of the CPS cable/part is near the top of the engine shown here:
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/24/d4/85/large/0996b43f8024d485.gif

The other end, with the actual sensor, is under/inside the timing belt
cover, shown here:
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/e4/26/68/medium/0996b43f80e42668.gif

That could mean that it will be an expensive job to get the CPS replaced.

What I am wondering is if anyone knows what is involved in replacing the CPS
on this particular vehicle year, make, and model. And/or, is there a way to
just remove the timing belt cover fairly easily to get to the actual CPS
sensor inside, without having to remove a bunch of other stuff (power
steering, motor mount, remove the right front wheel, etc) which is done
during a timing belt replacement.

[dsi1]

I believe you'll have to do all that stuff to get to the sensor. If you're lucky, it'll be about time to replace the belt too.

[TomR]

"dsi1" wrote in message
news:066b3bbc-505a-4ad9...@googlegroups.com...

Yuck. I am still hoping that will not turn out to be the case, but I have a
hunch that you are right.

The truth is that I should be retiring, or selling, or trading in this
vehicle and I am long overdue for doing that. So, I don't want to invest
any significant money in it. It is due for re-inspection so I will need to
do something about the Check Engine light and crankshaft position sensor
code fairly soon. But, if I can't do that for less than 2 or 3 hundred
bucks, it is probably time for me to move on.

Thanks for your reply.

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[Ed Pawlowski]

On 12/23/2016 2:53 PM, TomR wrote:

>>> The other end, with the actual sensor, is under/inside the timing belt
>>> cover, shown here:
>>> http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/e4/26/68/medium/0996b43f80e42668.gif

> Yuck. I am still hoping that will not turn out to be the case, but I
> have a hunch that you are right.
>
> The truth is that I should be retiring, or selling, or trading in this
> vehicle and I am long overdue for doing that. So, I don't want to
> invest any significant money in it. It is due for re-inspection so I
> will need to do something about the Check Engine light and crankshaft
> position sensor code fairly soon. But, if I can't do that for less than
> 2 or 3 hundred bucks, it is probably time for me to move on.
>
> Thanks for your reply.
>

How many miles? Once you have that much labor into it, the timing gelt
and water pup are very close. It may be a consideration to fo them too
and save that labor a few months down the road.

There are also some good incentives on new cars too. Nothing like a
$25,000 solution to a $400 problem.

[dsi1]

Moving on is a good idea. Don't get attached to cars. The price quote I got to change the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, on my 04 Passat was $1200. I changed it myself for very little money. Unfortunately, I did something wrong cause the belt failed soon after. I got another Passat but if the belt needs changing, I'll change it myself again - the car is just not worth $1200 to me. Good luck to you and Merry Christmas!

[TomR]

"dsi1" wrote in message
news:9b320913-88d9-4e23...@googlegroups.com...

>
>On Friday, December 23, 2016 at 9:53:30 AM UTC-10, TomR wrote:
>> "dsi1" wrote in message
>> news:066b3bbc-505a-4ad9...@googlegroups.com...
>> >
>> >On Friday, December 16, 2016 at 11:21:46 AM UTC-10, TomR wrote:
>> >> I posted previously about this on 8/4/2016, subject: "Check Engine
>> >> light
>> >> after starter replacement".

>Moving on is a good idea. Don't get attached to cars. The price quote I got
>to change the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, on my 04 Passat was
>$1200. I changed it myself for very little money. Unfortunately, I did
>something wrong cause the belt failed soon after. I got another Passat but
>if the belt needs changing, I'll change it myself again - the car is just
>not worth $1200 to me. Good luck to you and Merry Christmas!

Thanks again. I think you are probably right. The vehicle has almost
160,000 miles on it. When I had the timing belt replaced a long time ago
(maybe at around 85K miles), it did cost me around $1,200 or more back then.
And, I am not sure, but I doubt that my car is worth much more than that.
The Kelly Blue Book says it's worth maybe $1,100 on a trade-in and maybe
$2,100 for sale to private party.


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[Ed Pawlowski]

On 12/25/2016 6:39 PM, TomR wrote:

>
> Thanks again. I think you are probably right. The vehicle has almost
> 160,000 miles on it. When I had the timing belt replaced a long time
> ago (maybe at around 85K miles), it did cost me around $1,200 or more
> back then. And, I am not sure, but I doubt that my car is worth much
> more than that. The Kelly Blue Book says it's worth maybe $1,100 on a
> trade-in and maybe $2,100 for sale to private party.
>
>

Tough choice to make considering the value.
You probably know you have an interference engine and that the belt is
just about due for replacement. If the vehicle is in great shape, the
cost of replacement is still less than a couple of payments on a new
car. If everything else is starting to go, maybe it is time to just let
it go and junk it.

I had an '83 Olds Cutlass with 200k on it. Lots of thing stating to
fail so I figured I'd drive it until it did no go any more. I left work
one day, started the car and put it in gear. Drove 3 feet and it dies.
Would not restart. Took the company pickup and stopped to buy a new car
on the way home.