Rusted interal parts
labatyd
engine. The unit had been torn down to rebuild but due to unfortunate
circumstances never reassembled. It was stored in an old school bus for a
few years and the crank is somewhat rusted. Underneath the rust the journals
seem in decent shape. Would a polishing make the shaft useable again or is a
regrind mandatory? I used a scouring pad and it brings back some shine but
there is still evidence of rust pits. The cylinder walls also have rust.
Taper us about .006. Pass with a new set of rings or rebore required??
The price for the gaskets, shells, rings tossed in makes this attractive at
$300. Worth a try? How much can a person expect to see out of this thing?
Steve W.
Well it depends on what you want to do.
I would grind the crank, bore it to the first oversize you can find.
Then go from there.
Not sure what Clifford Research still has on hand but they made some
NASTY straight six parts.
http://www.cliffordperformance.net/index.html
--
Steve W.
PeterD
Really hard to say without seeing it. Could go either way, a few
(FEW!) minor pits on a bearing surface are not the end of the world,
nor are a few on a cylinder wall, all assuming they are minor. A lot
of huge pits are a very differnt story, however.
labatyd
"Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h3179m$vg1$1...@aioe.org...
> labatyd wrote:
>> Anyone with experience with rebuilding an older 6 cylinder 250 (GM lol)
>> engine. The unit had been torn down to rebuild but due to unfortunate
>> circumstances never reassembled. It was stored in an old school bus for a
>> few years and the crank is somewhat rusted. Underneath the rust the
>> journals
>> seem in decent shape. Would a polishing make the shaft useable again or
>> is a
>> regrind mandatory? I used a scouring pad and it brings back some shine
>> but
>> there is still evidence of rust pits. The cylinder walls also have rust.
>> Taper us about .006. Pass with a new set of rings or rebore required??
>>
>> The price for the gaskets, shells, rings tossed in makes this attractive
>> at
>> $300. Worth a try? How much can a person expect to see out of this thing?
>>
>>
>
> Well it depends on what you want to do.
> I would grind the crank, bore it to the first oversize you can find.
That's what my machine shop advised. Gets expensive. Not expecting to put a
lot of miles on this unit and was just wondering what I might get away with.
labatyd
"PeterD" <pet...@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:2k49551pjkco0vunk...@4ax.com...
I'm a little worried this is a bit too much. They look a bit too deep for my
liking. It's cheap enough so perhaps it may go a few years. Just wondering
if anyone has tried something like this before.
>
HLS
"labatyd" <fa...@fake.net> wrote in message
news:qKqdnaskxJuvA8nX...@posted.sasktel...
looks
pretty decent, I think you have a fair chance that this will hold.
A short run down the cylinder walls with a fine hone will also tell you how
bad
it really it.
I had a similar experience some time back when I brought engine and pieces
home
from the machine shop, and it flash rusted in my van overnight. This was
clearly
not serious, but I wasnt very happy about it.
labatyd
"HLS" <nos...@nospam.nix> wrote in message
news:o915m.10540$Dx2....@flpi146.ffdc.sbc.com...
This rust is much deeper. This option for a replacement motor will probably
be discarded as of today. Today I've received the offer of two engines
removed from vehicles and still assembled. Neither have run for a few years
but the chances are far better with these. One is stored inside and the
other still on a partial frame covered with plastic. The one stored inside
is felt to be in better condition or the pesron wouldn't have bothered with
it. I'm hoping. And the price is almost free. Part of an estate cleanup. I
have to follow up on these. :)
It would be interesting to see just how far the rusty parts would go though.
If I could get it for next to nothing I'd sure be tempted as a challenge.
Those old vehicles are not too hard to work on and the time spent wouldn't
be that great.
>
PeterD
Very slight pitting and damage to a cylinder wall? Yes, I have. Took a
while for the rings to (re)seat, but within about 500 miles it was
only using a quart of oil every 1,500 miles or so. Considering the age
of the engine, the quality of the oil (this was a long time ago), etc,
that was not so bad.
Personally, I'd say there is no yes/no answer. More a 'are you willing
to take the risk that it will not be satisfactory' answer. You may be
happy with the results, and again it may not be what you are looking
for.
I've done some horrible things to engines in the past, and recovered
from them. (for example, one Olds engine so hot the plug wires
litterally burned off the plugs, replaced the head gaskets and that
engine ran flawlessly for several years until I sold it...) Then gain,
I've seen things that one might think were relatively insignificant
cause no end ot problems! YMMV!
Nate Nagel
I dunno about rust, but a few years ago I tore down a Stude 289 that ran
like a raped ape to "put some new gaskets in it" (it leaked oil.) I
honestly just pulled the heads because a) I had new head gaskets and b)
I was curious what was in there. There was one heck of a big ridge -
not only would it catch my thumbnail, but it was probably thicker than
my thumbnail. You'd have never known from driving the car that the
bores were that worn. I don't know how many miles were on that engine,
Stude blocks are generally hard as heck and don't really wear all that much.
Of course, rather than doing the intelligent thing and just saying "huh,
how 'bout that" and putting it all back together, I bought a rebuilt
high-compression Avanti engine, changed the car to a 4-speed, and
changed the rear axle to a 3.73 limited slip. It's still not finished
yet. Not real bright I am, sometimes...
That said, you might put it together and it'll be an oil burning, rod
knocking beast. You pays your money and takes your chances.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
hls
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
>
> I dunno about rust, but a few years ago I tore down a Stude 289 that ran
> like a raped ape to "put some new gaskets in it" (it leaked oil.) I
> honestly just pulled the heads because a) I had new head gaskets and b) I
> was curious what was in there. There was one heck of a big ridge - not
> only would it catch my thumbnail, but it was probably thicker than my
> thumbnail. You'd have never known from driving the car that the bores
> were that worn. I don't know how many miles were on that engine, Stude
> blocks are generally hard as heck and don't really wear all that much.
> That said, you might put it together and it'll be an oil burning, rod
> knocking beast. You pays your money and takes your chances.
>
> nate
When I was taking mechanics classes years ago, my best teacher told us of
a Studebaker that he tore down around the WWII years.
I cant remember why they tore it down (perhaps bearings, because those
didnt last so long in those days) , but the salient point was that it
had no piston rings at all, and had never had any. It was determined that
it came from the factory that way. Maybe an error, or maybe a shortage
of parts in those rationed years.
Nonetheless, he said that it had never really been an "oil burner". Had
never
consumed a lot of oil, nor had it blown smoke.
Another friend built up a 350 Chevy which he transplanted into a Studebaker
Lark. For RPM, he left the pistons so loose in the bores that you could
see
light past them...But it never really burned oil either.. (Ran like a
scalded dog,
though!)