1997 Mark VIII HID Bulb Replacement Procedure FYI
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replacement procedure FYI:
My Mark VIII was built in late 1996. At the time the HID headlamp bulb wires
plug into the HID ballast cable using a non-separable permanent plug and
jack located just under the front edge of the hood. I have been told by the
engineers at Sylvania that the Mark VIII ANSI 9500 HID ballast rarely fails
and only those Mark VIII HID headlamps which were wired backwards when
Sylvania build the headlamp assemblies starting in March 1997 until winter
1997 have a very short life. Ford recalled these headlamps at the time. The
Mark VIII HID design was solid. They were just wired backwards when Sylvania
set up the jig at the plant. No one noticed this mistake until reports of
premature bulb failures arrived. Anyway, my HID's were build in 1996, were
wired right, and have lasted five years!
1997 Mark VIII HID Bulb Replacement Procedure:
1.. I removed the headlamp assembly by cutting the HID bulb wires as close
to the failed HID bulb as possible and removed the whole headlamp assembly
from the car.
2.. I cut off the plug on the new HID bulb (F8LZ-13466-AA) as close to the
plug as possible. I guess the 1998 HID ballast has a removable jack, but not
mine! Sylvania wanted to protect owners from the 25K volt startup pulse.
3.. I turned the HID clear plastic dust cover about 20 degrees counter
clockwise and removed it.
4.. I unscrewed the three tiny Torx screws which held the old HID bulb to
the housing and removed the HID bulb.
5.. The entire inside surface of the bulb was coated with a dark metallic
film that make the bulb glow a dim yellow.
6.. I installed the new HID bulb with the three Torx screws, and the HID
dust cover.
7.. I stripped all four cut wires back an inch.
8.. I routed the new HID bulb's wires through the car and put the headlamp
housing back in the car.
9.. I slipped three inches of shrink tube insulation over each wire.
10.. I soldered each pair of wires together using a telegraph splice and
thin five core electrical solder.
11.. I slid the shrink tube over the splice and heated it with butane
lighter to form a tight seal.
12.. I slid the stock wire protector conduit back over each wire.
All the dealers told me that I had to replace the bulb and the ballast
together (unnecessary and very expensive) because the bulb/ballast connector
is permanently connected.