1994 Taurus Stalls
EMT261
great except for one thing. When the car is moving slowly (At idle
with the brake on, or coming to a stop at a light) it stalls. The car
always starts right up no problem. No Check Engine light until after
the car stalls. All the fluids are fine. (Coolant, Oil, Transmission)
Anyone have a clue as to what's wrong? I think it might be an
electrical problem with the ignition. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Sean
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Sean R. Prenger, EMT-1
American Medical Response HDO West
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Eric Toline
1994 Taurus Stalls
Group: alt.autos.ford Date: Wed, Dec 27, 2000, 7:28am (EST+5) From:
srpr...@my-deja.com (EMT261)
except for one thing. When the car is moving slowly (At idle with the
brake on, or coming to a stop at a light) it stalls. The car always
starts right up no problem. No Check Engine light until after the car
stalls. All the fluids are fine. (Coolant, Oil, Transmission) Anyone
have a clue as to what's wrong? I think it might be an electrical
problem with the ignition. Any thoughts?
Thanks,Sean<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Could be the idle rpm is too low or perhaps a fuel pump/filter problem.
Might even be the throttle position sensor.
If you have a tachometer in the car you can check the idle rpm when the
engine has warmed up. I'm not sure what yours should be but I would
think about 600-750 rpm would be in the ballpark.
My best suggestion would be to have it checked by a good tech.
et
EMT261
EMT261 <srpr...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> I have a 1994 Ford Taurus. It has 119000 miles on it. The car runs
> great except for one thing. When the car is moving slowly (At idle
> with the brake on, or coming to a stop at a light) it stalls. The car
> always starts right up no problem. No Check Engine light until after
> the car stalls. All the fluids are fine. (Coolant, Oil, Transmission)
> Anyone have a clue as to what's wrong? I think it might be an
> electrical problem with the ignition. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Sean
>
happens after the car has reached normal operation temperature and been
there for a while.
elft...@my-deja.com
The AC compressor and clutch may need to be replaced. Big job.
Eric Toline
Re: 1994 Taurus Stalls
Group: alt.autos.ford Date: Fri, Dec 29, 2000, 8:31pm (EST+5) From:
srpr...@my-deja.com (EMT261)
"One more point that I have noticed after closer inspection. This only
happens after the car has reached normal operation temperature and been
there for a while."<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
If you keep a little pressure on the gas pedal does it still stall out?
If it dosn't then low rpms sounds like the culprit. No matter what, you
need to get it looked at.
et
EMT261
They took it out, cleaned it and also checked the spark plugs...No
Charge. The car is running like a champ now!
> If you keep a little pressure on the gas pedal does it still stall out?
> If it dosn't then low rpms sounds like the culprit. No matter what, you
> need to get it looked at.
>
> et
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Sean R. Prenger, EMT-1
American Medical Response HDO West
http://welcome.to/AMR_HighDesertOps
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"Mike ...@mailcity.com
EMT261
mark, the car suddenly lost power. When I pulled off to the shoulder,
it ran rough for about 5 seconds and died. I could find obviously
wrong. After the car sat for about 30 minutes, I got it started. I
drove it for another 10 minutes and it died again and couldn't be
restarted. I had it towed back to the shop. The next day when the
mechanic came in, he started the car right away and it ran fine for
over 3 hours. No codes in the computer. He found a leaky oil pressure
switch and fixed that, but no clue about why the car died on me like it
did. Drove it all day after I picked it up and no problems. I am
really confused now!
-Sean
In article <3A5CBCAD...@mailcity.com>,
"Mike Hunt22"@mailcity.com wrote:
> Just goes to show what a little preventive maintenance can do.
--
jim
that the switch is just so so, and might work when it cools off....or
maybe the ride home with the tow wagon did a rattle and reattached what
ever was loose. I would let the engine run and then play around with the
switch and try moving it very slightly and see if the engine stops or
gets sluggish????
hope this helps.
Thomas Moats
the EEC relay and fuel pump relay.
"EMT261" <srpr...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:95s6s6$ugs$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
OCO Net
it quit! Still trying to figure it out!
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Sean Prenger, EMT-1A
American Medical Response
High Desert Operations
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"jim" <db...@sprynet.com> wrote in message news:3A81D7...@sprynet.com...
Donnie Wiggins
Sometimes we can drive 100 miles with no problem and then the next day after
driving only 5 or 10 miles it will quit. Usually in the left turn lane. The
engine will be idling normally then get very rough and finally quit. If we
wait a couple of minutes it will restart and work fine for the rest of the
day. I've noticed it is more prone to do it on hot days. Coolant is good.
Computer doesn't show any error codes. I replaced the ECC(?) IV module and
also used a new coil but still the same problem. Again, if it is early in
the morning or late at night it wont do it. If we let the car idle for long
periods then it will usually get rough and quit but the temp gauge is in the
normal range. Have had it to two mechanics and no joy. Is this something
that affects all '94 Taurus?
Frustrating problem.
Thanks in advance...
Donnie
in article t9883qc...@corp.supernews.com, OCO Net at
amravwe...@yahoo.com wrote on 2/21/01 3:10 PM:
PattiW.
"Donnie Wiggins" <d.wi...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:B6C58D2A.25EC%d.wi...@verizon.net...
Graham Shortt
when the failure occurs.
"PattiW." <jwisni...@home.com> wrote in message
news:0l6o6.20055$W05.4...@news1.rdc1.mi.home.com...
Donnie Wiggins
does the same thing. Haven't checked the fuel pressure yet. The problem is
now repeatable whenever I let it idle for a long period after driving it for
a while. Definitely does it quicker the hotter the day is. Fan is working
well and coolant is fine. Temp gauge stays at normal.
Groan...
Donald
in article 1Emo6.36964$o%6.71...@news1.rdc1.bc.home.com, Graham Shortt at
GSh...@home.com wrote on 3/4/01 3:02 AM:
PattiW.
got it. Same for dist.news:B6C96448.26C7%d.wi...@verizon.net...
Donnie Wiggins
Sprayed each component with liquid air (if you take one of those cans of
dust remover that is used for cameras and invert it while you spray you get
an extremely cold stream of liquid)... No joy. I do notice now that whenever
it starts to bog down it acts like it is getting too much gas. Has little
backfire sounds and if I push the accelerator it bogs more. Thanks to all
who have replied so far.
Donnie
in article FUUo6.28394$W05.6...@news1.rdc1.mi.home.com, PattiW. at
jwisni...@home.com wrote on 3/5/01 6:00 PM:
Donnie Wiggins
flowing. I changed the rotor. It was pitted. And I changed the PCV valve. It
was gunky. Car runs smoother now. But, I found another symptom. When the RPM
reaches 4K it starts to break up, miss and run rough. It will not go over 4K
RPM no matter what I do. Although I do not yet know what the problem is I
think that this last bit of info will prove to be the key to finding a
solution. Any more help will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Donnie
in article B6CA9013.2728%d.wi...@verizon.net, Donnie Wiggins at
d.wi...@verizon.net wrote on 3/6/01 1:01 PM:
d surb
is.
It might be faulty,intermittantly screwing up. It will tell the
computer to give too much gas and try to put the car in "Limp Mode".
cost about $13.00.
Let us know if this cures it for ya.
In article <B6CB00EA.2748%d.wi...@verizon.net>, Donnie Wiggins
Donnie Wiggins
Keep you posted...
Donnie
in article 070320010314075296%h...@home.com, d surb at h...@home.com wrote on
3/7/01 3:14 AM:
Donnie Wiggins
So far the problem hasn't recurred. I noticed that the fuel filter was less
free flowing than the new one I put in. While driving the car I now notice
that when we sit in traffic at a stop light idling that after a minute or so
the RPM drop from around 1,000 to about 700. This is the time that the
engine would miss and quit before all the changes. I'm still going to change
the temperature sensor and take a good look at the idle motor. I was in
Sears today and they have a diagnostic tool that costs about $80.00 and
checks all of the sensors and the computer. Wondering if this would be a
good investment? The car seems reliable now but the real test will come when
the weather warms up.
Donnie
in article B6CC62E9.27C8%d.wi...@verizon.net, Donnie Wiggins at
d.wi...@verizon.net wrote on 3/7/01 10:12 PM:
Graham Shortt
also display serial data? As for your stalling I would suspect your dirty
fuel filter is indicative of crud in the tank, probably clogging up the
filter sock on the bottom of the fuel pump. There was a TSB for metal
shavings in the tank if I recall correctly.news:B6CDD854.2832%d.wi...@verizon.net...
Donnie Wiggins
pump filter sock. I'll have to look into that.
I only looked briefly at the tool. I'm going back to Sears and get all the
info on it. Will let you know,
Thanks for the help.
Donnie
in article iPaq6.2202$tP3....@news1.rdc1.bc.home.com, Graham Shortt at
GSh...@home.com wrote on 3/9/01 3:13 PM:
Donnie Wiggins
that is on the distributor) and that DIDN'T help. Changed the coil out and
that DIDN'T help. Changed the coolant and that DIDN'T help (I'm using the
standard thermostat.) Sooo... I thought it might be the fuel filter. Went to
my local auto parts store and got a fuel filter, PCV valve and distributor
rotor and installed all of them. Then I read on a web site that the car has
a problem with gunk in the fuel tank. There was even a recall for it. The
PCV valve was gunky and the rotor was pitted and the fuel filter's flow was
noticeably impeded. The car ran much better after the changes and I haven't
had a stall yet. My money is on the fuel filter change. Never had a problem
cranking just when idling. Makes sense that the fuel filter could have been
impeding the flow and at idle it just couldn't get enough fuel to stay
running. Maybe when it sits some of the sediment settles and it can draw
fuel normally. So far so good. Will keep you posted.
Hope this helps,
Donnie
in article B6CF4BD7.2881%d.wi...@verizon.net, Donnie Wiggins at
d.wi...@verizon.net wrote on 3/10/01 3:11 AM:
Eric Toline
Re: 1994 Taurus Stalls
Group: alt.autos.ford Date: Wed, Mar 7, 2001, 2:02am (EST+5) From:
d.wi...@verizon.net (Donnie Wiggins)
Well... Another update. I changed the fuel filter. It was less than free
flowing. I changed the rotor. It was pitted. And I changed the PCV
valve. It was gunky. Car runs smoother now. But, I found another
symptom. When the RPM reaches 4K it starts to break up, miss and run
rough. It will not go over 4K RPM no matter what I do. Although I do not
yet know what the problem is I think that this last bit of info will
prove to be the key to finding a solution. Any more help will be GREATLY
appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Donnie<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Just how fast is 4k rpms in mph in your car?
In mine 3k=80mph.
Donnie Wiggins
4K in drive :-P
Donnie
in article 29860-3AB...@storefull-122.iap.bryant.webtv.net, Eric
Toline at Audi...@webtv.net wrote on 3/18/01 12:17 AM:
Donnie Wiggins
fuel filter, PCV valve, and the distributor rotor. So far it hasn't done it
again (plus the engine runs much better.) I am going to change the coolant
sensor (you are the third or fourth person to suggest it.) I also notice
that the engine idles at two specific idles. One it idles at around 900 rpm
then something kicks in and drops the idle to around 700 rpm. I would guess
that this has to do with the A/C and the radiator fan? Kicking in. I think
that it was this that was causing the stall before I made the changes. Is
there a way to adjust the lower of the two idles?
Thanks for the note.
Donald
on 3/30/01 7:12 AM, Rick at get...@bright.net wrote:
> Two things I would try-change your coolant sensor 1st (about 12.00)It's on
> the top right front of the motor by the end of the fuel injector rail- if
> that doesn't help replace the TFI module on the side of the distributor-
> the coolant sensor caused my sable to do exactly what you're
> describing.......Rick get...@bright.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donnie Wiggins" <d.wi...@verizon.net>
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.ford
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: 1994 Taurus Stalls
>
>
>> Tried the cold water on each individual component and all together. No
> joy.
>> Sprayed each component with liquid air (if you take one of those cans of
>> dust remover that is used for cameras and invert it while you spray you
> get
>> an extremely cold stream of liquid)... No joy. I do notice now that
> whenever
>> it starts to bog down it acts like it is getting too much gas. Has little
>> backfire sounds and if I push the accelerator it bogs more. Thanks to all
>> who have replied so far.
>> Donnie
in article B6DBB791.2C5A%d.wi...@verizon.net, Donnie Wiggins at
d.wi...@verizon.net wrote on 3/19/01 1:18 PM: