Oil pan removal & rear seal replacement - 1986 F150 4X4 302 help ?
p...@nospam.com
obearing knock) when hot and leakage at rear seal. Since the engine
still has good compression and does not smoke , I'd like to take the
gamble on replacing the oil pump rear seal and maybe bearings
if this engine-in-vehicle procedure isn't too difficults. My Haynes
manual is not much help useless especially since this is a 4X4
automatic. I would appceciate some detailed help.
Thanks
John Schmidt
frame, then jack up the engine and stick some blocks of wood between the
mounts and frame, both sides. 2x4s, 4x4s, whatever is necessary. Lower
the engine onto the blocking. But first, undo the fan shroud, position
it out of the way. Remove the dipstick. Take the transmission line
loose from the left side of the radiator (so sez my Chilton's manual
#6913). Remove the pan bolts (after draining the pan). Lower the pan.
You may have to remove the pickup tube from the oil pump and let it stay
in the pan. There is a nut/bolt on the #3 main bearing cap helping to
hold the tube. Remove sed nut/bolt. The rear seal is probably the
2-piece kind, meaning you don't have to remove the transmission and
flywheel. If it's the 1-piece seal, uh-oh. But let's pretend it's the
2-piecer. Remove the rear main cap after slightly loosening ALL the
main caps. Chilton sez don't let the shaft drop more then 1/32". You
may be able to grab the block-end of the seal with needle-nosed pliers
and just pull it out. You may have to screw a small sheet-metal screw
into the block-end and pull on the screw to remove the upper half. Note
which way the lip of the seal is pointing as there is a FRONT and BACK
to the pieces. The seal will protrude from the block and cap about
3/8", opposite of each other, of course, meaning DON'T align the ends of
the seal even with the cap ends. The seal may (will?) leak if you do.
Replace the mains and rod bearings while you're in there, along with a
"new" oil pump. I'm in the habit of removing the gear cover-plate on
the pump and packing the cavity with petroleum jelly, such as Vaseline
or similar, or asembly lube. (Both priming lubricants are oil-soluble
and won't plug the filter.) The pump primes much faster by doing this.
Coat the inside of the bearing shells with a good assembly lube, (I'm
using STA-LUBE brand) but DON'T coat the outside of them. You want the
outside dry as posible. Dry the rod ends and caps where the bearings
fit. Try to dry the block where the mains go. Any oil/grease on these
areas will make the bearing too tight. The mains torque to 70-90
lbs-ft, the rods are 19-24 lbs-ft. The oil pan bolts tighten to
10-12lbs-ft. If the lifters still rattle after this, you'll have to
swap them for new. That means removing the intake manifold, valve
covers, push-rods, etc.
Film at eleven...
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Before you buy.
p...@nospam.com
I. How much time involved for R&R oil pan cahngine oil pump and rear
seal (assuming if it is 2 piece) ?
2. How much time in replacing main and rod bearings bearing from the
bottom
3. Is there any way to check for 1 or piece seal before stariting job
(will engine serial # s give a clue)
Thanks
On Sun, 05 Mar 2000 02:53:27 GMT, John Schmidt <rat...@my-deja.com>
wrote:
N. Nelson
> Thanks for the reply - A couple more questions for anyone :
>
> I. How much time involved for R&R oil pan cahngine oil pump and rear
> seal (assuming if it is 2 piece) ?
>
> 2. How much time in replacing main and rod bearings bearing from the
> bottom
>
> 3. Is there any way to check for 1 or piece seal before stariting job
> (will engine serial # s give a clue)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
Well, I'll tell ya, I've done this job more times then I care to
remember, and the rear main is a one piece seal.
Go to a Ford dealership parts counter, ask to see the seal.
You should seriously consider pulling the transmission/transfer case, and
pulling the engine to do this job.
You're going to get real sick of having oil constantly dripping on you
while you try to manuver new bearings into place.
--
Neil Nelson
***********************************
Send Lawyers Guns and Money,
The shit has hit the fan. WZ
***********************************
JJ
frame from 8x8's) & engine stand from Taylor rental or whom-ever you have
around you, that's what I did before I purchased my own.
Pull the engine, bolt it to the stand, then go to town.. It's a lot easier
than dropping the xfer-case/trans, bellhousing flywheel - pan and trying to
work on it on your back... Done it once, never again. ~2hrs to pull, ~ 3hrs
on the stand ~2hrs to return.. so figure 1.5 -2 days (you will have nothing
you need handy, snack-swearing breaks (save beer till your done :^)
JJ
N. Nelson <none...@execpc.com> wrote in message
news:38c27067$0$87...@news.execpc.com...
p...@nospam.com
I that case I'd just as soon bite the bullet and buy a refmd engine
(long block) locally . I can borrow a hoist and stand from neighbor
Any engine R&R tips (lift points etc) and long block refitting tips
are appreciated
(truck is a 4X4, auto trans, A/C , cruise)
Thnanks
J. Davis
> Well, I'll tell ya, I've done this job more times then I care to
> remember, and the rear main is a one piece seal.
I've got an '87 4X4 with a 302 and mine's one piece...
just did that job myself.
> Go to a Ford dealership parts counter, ask to see the seal.
>
> You should seriously consider pulling the transmission/transfer case, and
> pulling the engine to do this job.
I left the tranny & case assembly in vehicle, and just pulled
the whole engine. Ford trucks are great - you can unplug
the engine wiring harness from the driver's footwell and
pull it thru the firewall instead of unhooking everything
from the engine itself.
> You're going to get real sick of having oil constantly dripping on you
> while you try to manuver new bearings into place.
I mangled a two sets of bearings trying to replace main
bearings in a 3.0 Taurus without removing the engine...
Trying to partially drop the crank enough to fit them sucks.
N. Nelson
> I left the tranny & case assembly in vehicle, and just pulled
> the whole engine. Ford trucks are great - you can unplug
> the engine wiring harness from the driver's footwell and
> pull it thru the firewall instead of unhooking everything
> from the engine itself.
Uhhh...yup. I've already bitch slapped myself for posting "dropping the
trany etc.....
D Macl
the bastards killed kenny
Dan&Kate Cassill
trying this. I think it is a one piece seal
p...@nospam.com
one piece seal . So much for doing the job fron the bootom. I don't
want to go to all of the trouble of pulling the an pan and replacing
oil pump and bearings and still have a leaking rear real. So it's
either time to replace the engine with a rebuilt (if R&R is no too
difficult) or donate the truck as-is.
Any R&R and long block refitting tips which are more detailed than
the manual are appreciated.
(truck is 4X4 auto AOD, A/C, EFI w/big air intake on top , PS ,
Cruise cont)
J. Davis
> When going to price the parts I did look it up. It is most likely a
> one piece seal .
Anything after '83 (except 460) is a one-piece.
> So it's
> either time to replace the engine with a rebuilt (if R&R is no too
> difficult) or donate the truck as-is.
If you have a hoist and engine stand it's cake as engine jobs
go, aside from the fact you have to climb into the engine bay
to work on it, which most people seem to like.
> Any R&R and long block refitting tips which are more detailed than
> the manual are appreciated.
Pull off the AC compressor and PS pump and bungee cord
them out of the way. I disconnected the AC line that runs
from the compressor to the passenger's side of the engine
compartment via the top of the firewall, but my AC was
discharged. I left the alternator and air pump on, tho, until
I had the engine out.
Most of those shitty brittle hard plastic vacuum lines don't
need to be removed - there are only a few that run to the
passenger's side of the engine compartment that need
to be unplugged and secured to the engine.
The same goes for the wiring - all that wiring coming out
from around the steering column can be disconnected from
the main plug under dash and then pulled thru and secured
to the engine assembly that is to be removed. There are
only a few wires that aren't part of the engine harness, and
those just get tucked to the side - alternator and starter I
believe.
Make sure you have the radiator removed, undo the ground
straps, fuel lines, motor mounts and bellhousing bolts and
yank it.
I left my intake & everything attached while on the engine
stand - if it could hold a *long* 300-6 longblock, it can hold
a slightly heavier, lots shorter 302 fully dressed block.
> (truck is 4X4 auto AOD, A/C, EFI w/big air intake on top , PS ,
> Cruise cont)
Ditto.
Good luck, and despam me if you need a quick Q answered.
bobo
to a autozone store and purchase one of their series II
engines thats what I did 2 year warranty unlimited mileage
this is for a long block it comes with the pan and valve
covers mobil 1 oil& filter just bolt on your manifolds
starter alt waterpump all for $1,500 exchange.
* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful
ironman
effort and jerk it out. You'll get a better job done that
way anyway.