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2001 ford station wagon AC problem
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Stormin Mormon
May 29, 2013, 8:09:36 PM5/29/13
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May 29, 2013
Friend of mine has a Ford station wagon, four door. AC not working. I put the low side gage on. Engine off, about 100 PSI. Start engine, run the AC. Low side drops to 20, then up to 40, and back to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.
Friend of mine has a Ford station wagon, four door. AC not working. I put the low side gage on. Engine off, about 100 PSI. Start engine, run the AC. Low side drops to 20, then up to 40, and back to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 29, 2013, 10:28:26 PM5/29/13
to
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 29, 2013, 10:29:46 PM5/29/13
to
specified amount of refrigerant. It sure sounds like the unit is low
on freon.
Geoff Welsh
May 30, 2013, 12:32:14 AM5/30/13
to
GW
Tim J.
May 30, 2013, 3:21:24 AM5/30/13
to
>May 29, 2013
>
>Friend of mine has a Ford station wagon, four door. AC not working. I put the low side gage on. Engine off, about 100 PSI. Start engine, run the AC. Low side drops to 20, then up to 40, and back to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
>
>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
>
>Friend of mine has a Ford station wagon, four door. AC not working. I put the low side gage on. Engine off, about 100 PSI. Start engine, run the AC. Low side drops to 20, then up to 40, and back to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
>
>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again. I'd also be interested in
seeing what the high pressure side is showing during this time. Get a
can of R-134a with leak detector dye and a UV light. Your local auto
parts store should have both. Begin SLOWLY adding the 134a into the
system and see if that fixes the problem. And whatever you do, do NOT
flip the can upside down or else you'll be dumping liquid into the low
side. If it does fix the problem, run the system at night and use the
UV light to look for any escaped leak detector dye. Pay special
attention to all connections and the compressor, but don't overlook
the entire condenser coil and the service ports. I'll bet you have a
small leak somewhere.
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 6:27:56 AM5/30/13
to
I think it was low, as the compressor cycled on the low pressure cutout, a couple times. But why the compressor finally stopped working at all?
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:l9edq81icd5irl2ob...@4ax.com...
Low freon level????
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:l9edq81icd5irl2ob...@4ax.com...
Low freon level????
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 6:29:06 AM5/30/13
to
Yes, I DO believe the system was low on REFRIGERANT because the system CYCLED a couple times on low CUTOUT. But, why did the COMPRESSOR finally stop WORKING at ALL?
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:raedq8lsrs3ehb3st...@4ax.com...
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:raedq8lsrs3ehb3st...@4ax.com...
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 6:32:13 AM5/30/13
to
> to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
>
>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again.
CY: That's what I described. Now, please tell me why the compressor stopped working at all, and the pressure went up to 100 and stayed?
>
>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again.
I'd also be interested in
seeing what the high pressure side is showing during this time.
Get a
can of R-134a with leak detector dye and a UV light. Your local auto
parts store should have both. Begin SLOWLY adding the 134a into the
system and see if that fixes the problem.
And whatever you do, do NOT
flip the can upside down or else you'll be dumping liquid into the low
side.
If it does fix the problem, run the system at night and use the
UV light to look for any escaped leak detector dye. Pay special
attention to all connections and the compressor, but don't overlook
the entire condenser coil and the service ports. I'll bet you have a
small leak somewhere.
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 6:33:22 AM5/30/13
to
I think it was low, as the compressor cycled on the low pressure cutout, a couple times. But why the compressor finally stopped working at all?
"Geoff Welsh" <GeeD...@some.rr.com> wrote in message news:ko6khc$qd$1...@dont-email.me...
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 30, 2013, 12:47:21 PM5/30/13
to
every "O" ring, then draw it down again and charge with the specified
amount of refrigerant. (0+% chance he has a few bad "O" rings - but
adding die first and running it may also find a perforated receiver or
some other odd leak. "O"rings on Fords are the major problem.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 30, 2013, 12:47:54 PM5/30/13
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cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 30, 2013, 12:49:56 PM5/30/13
to
side without the system running, you can do it inverted and get all of
the oil and die into the system. Then let is sit for 10 minutes or so
before running the compressor.
Tim J.
May 30, 2013, 1:49:06 PM5/30/13
to
On Thu, 30 May 2013 06:32:13 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61**NOJUNK**@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
>>
>>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
>
>I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
>kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
>pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again.
>
>CY: That's what I described. Now, please tell me why the compressor stopped working at all, and the pressure went up to 100 and stayed?
Clare already answered that. Can you go back out to the car and
<cayoung61**NOJUNK**@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> to 20. Then after doing this several times, it goes back up to 100 and stays.
>>
>>No refrigerant was added, or removed during this process. What might be the problem?
>
>I agree with Clare. It sounds like the low pressure cut-off switch is
>kicking in and disengaging the A/C clutch. Then when the low side
>pressure rises, the clutch kicks in again.
>
>CY: That's what I described. Now, please tell me why the compressor stopped working at all, and the pressure went up to 100 and stayed?
repeat what you first posted? If so, that's de facto proof that the
computer shut it down to prevent damage.
>I'd also be interested in
>seeing what the high pressure side is showing during this time.
>
>CY: I didn't tap into the high side, hate to lose that blast of refrigerant when I unhook my gage.
contents when you disconnect them.
>Get a
>can of R-134a with leak detector dye and a UV light. Your local auto
>parts store should have both. Begin SLOWLY adding the 134a into the
>system and see if that fixes the problem.
>
>CY: That's a thought.
>
>And whatever you do, do NOT
>flip the can upside down or else you'll be dumping liquid into the low
>side.
>
>CY: If you add with the can upright, the UV dye stays within the can. Have to invert, to get the dye to go in.
And if you invert a can with the system running, I cannot think of a
better way to damage the valves in the compressor. Do so at your own
risk. You've been warned.
>If it does fix the problem, run the system at night and use the
>UV light to look for any escaped leak detector dye. Pay special
>attention to all connections and the compressor, but don't overlook
>the entire condenser coil and the service ports. I'll bet you have a
>small leak somewhere.
>
>CY: And, so why did the compressor stop working at the end, and totally stop after the low side came up to 100 PSI, which should have satisfied the low pressure cutout?
If you had hooked up the gauge to the high side while the compressor
was off, you would have probably noticed the high side pressure was at
or near 100, too. It's the difference in pressures between the high
and low side that causes the system to work. You probably didn't give
the computer time to reset so the clutch would engage again.
I do not mean to offend, but if you cannot grasp the concepts we've
laid out here, take it to a professional because you have no business
working on a closed A/C system.
Tim J.
May 30, 2013, 1:52:48 PM5/30/13
to
equipment or expertise required to do this correctly. He would be
better off leaving it to a professional.
Geoff Welsh
May 30, 2013, 4:47:34 PM5/30/13
to
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> I think it was low, as the compressor cycled on the low pressure
> cutout, a couple times. But why the compressor finally stopped
> working at all? .
because the switch is failing. Those wear out all the time.
> I think it was low, as the compressor cycled on the low pressure
> cutout, a couple times. But why the compressor finally stopped
> working at all? .
GW
Ashton Crusher
May 30, 2013, 4:55:27 PM5/30/13
to
Those switches that I've seen normally cycle between 28psi off to 42
psi on. If you were seeing 20 psi it's probably low on freon like
everyone said and also a good chance, like others have said, that the
computer saw the short cycles and shut it down. If it was me and I
didn't want to spend a lot of time messing with it I'd just put a can
of freon in it and see how it does. Just watch the pressures as you
put it in. Assuming you can get to it to feel it, I usually check the
"out" pipe from the evaporator to see if it's cool or cold. If
there's not enough freon it won't be cold. I'd be willing to bet that
adding a can gets it working satisfactorily.
psi on. If you were seeing 20 psi it's probably low on freon like
everyone said and also a good chance, like others have said, that the
computer saw the short cycles and shut it down. If it was me and I
didn't want to spend a lot of time messing with it I'd just put a can
of freon in it and see how it does. Just watch the pressures as you
put it in. Assuming you can get to it to feel it, I usually check the
"out" pipe from the evaporator to see if it's cool or cold. If
there's not enough freon it won't be cold. I'd be willing to bet that
adding a can gets it working satisfactorily.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 30, 2013, 5:32:11 PM5/30/13
to
On Thu, 30 May 2013 10:47:34 -1000, Geoff Welsh <GeeD...@some.rr.com>
wrote:
Personally, i doubt there is any problem with the switch - and if it
has shut down on the safety (from cycling it too often) I believe
there is a reset procedure. Not sure on Ford, but on Navistar Trucks,
to reset the A/C you use the cruise control buttons on the steering
wheel.
With the truck not running, the key in the ON position, transmission
in park, parking brake set, and left turn signal on. Using the cruise
control buttons, at the same time push the left button up and the
right one down to pull the codes on the dash. To RESET all codes and
start the A/C again push both cruise control buttons UP.
This should reset the A/C if the check A/C light is on.
Like I said, not sure about Ford - and it will likely differ from year
to year and model to model .
On a '99 Crown Vic with automatic temperature control, the following
procedure is required:
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test
The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with
data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed
signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control
functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in
addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that
occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should
be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the
temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car
temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the
system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously
and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display
will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display
window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs
displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics
procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer
to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative,
Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue
(cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all
intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display
blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button.
The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function
symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF
(display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system
turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles
after the intermittent condition occurs.
That ought to keep Stormy occupied for a while!!!
wrote:
has shut down on the safety (from cycling it too often) I believe
there is a reset procedure. Not sure on Ford, but on Navistar Trucks,
to reset the A/C you use the cruise control buttons on the steering
wheel.
With the truck not running, the key in the ON position, transmission
in park, parking brake set, and left turn signal on. Using the cruise
control buttons, at the same time push the left button up and the
right one down to pull the codes on the dash. To RESET all codes and
start the A/C again push both cruise control buttons UP.
This should reset the A/C if the check A/C light is on.
Like I said, not sure about Ford - and it will likely differ from year
to year and model to model .
On a '99 Crown Vic with automatic temperature control, the following
procedure is required:
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test
The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with
data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed
signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control
functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in
addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that
occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should
be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the
temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car
temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the
system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously
and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display
will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display
window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs
displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics
procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer
to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative,
Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue
(cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all
intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display
blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button.
The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function
symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF
(display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system
turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles
after the intermittent condition occurs.
That ought to keep Stormy occupied for a while!!!
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 5:56:05 PM5/30/13
to
That's quite possible, and would explain a lot. Thank you.
"Geoff Welsh" <GeeD...@some.rr.com> wrote in message news:ko8dm2$i2e$2...@dont-email.me...
"Geoff Welsh" <GeeD...@some.rr.com> wrote in message news:ko8dm2$i2e$2...@dont-email.me...
Stormin Mormon
May 30, 2013, 5:58:08 PM5/30/13
to
I've forwarded this to the fellow who owns the car, and will see what he replies. Thank you for the kindness, and consideration.
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:5jgfq8tqjeho3ogjv...@4ax.com...
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:5jgfq8tqjeho3ogjv...@4ax.com...
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