Grand Caravan auto-stick problems
Joe
Symptoms are as follows:
-If I shift into auto-stick mode at any speed, there is no perceptible
change anywhere--gear indicator stays on 'D', no change in gears, etc (this
could be normal, as it has never worked so I'm not sure how it should behave
when first engaged)
-Once in auto-stick mode, clicking the up or down switch causes no
perceptible change...gear indicator stays on 'D', the gears do not change
-The overdrive button at the end of the shift lever also does not work--it
does not disable overdrive at any speed
My Chilton's guide has no auto-stick info at all, nor is it included in the
wiring diagrams, so I'm not sure where to start--can't find a fuse or relay
for auto-stick, and I don't know where the common failure points are.
If anyone has any suggestions or info I'd be much obilged.
Dan C
Don't worry about it. The auto-stick is a joke and a waste, anyway,
especially on a Caravan. Leave it in "D" and worry about something that
actually matters.
--
"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me".
Joe
news:pan.2007.05.02...@lan.invalid...
Don't know about other models, but on this van the autostick is the only way
to downshift. Driving in a mountainous area (we just moved to one) without
being able to engine brake is just plain unsafe.
jcr
Agreed. I use it to down-shift on steep downhill grades all the time!
elias
reading. I had the same problem on a '99 Dodge Grand Caravan ES with the
autostick. The van worked fine in D (drive) but would not turn on the autostick
function when the transmission lever was placed in the next slot. Since I live
in the mountains, it is essential to be able to downshift on a long grade.
People who don't burn their brakes out quickly and are dangerous on the passes.
My van also illuminated the "AUTOSTICK" when the engine was off and
transmission selector was in autostick position, but not while running.
Transmission shop said it would take them a few days to figure it out, but that
it sounded electrical and would be best to go to the dealer. Dealership said
there were several possibilities (lever select pawl, transmission control
module, and others) but it would cost $189 to look at it and then they would
call with a repair estimate after their diagnoses.
I read that a common problem with the autostick was a broken wire running from
the steering wheel to the transmission select lever and then going inside it to
the autostick buttons. There are two wires; every time you shift from park to
drive, the wires are bent. Eventually they break.
After taking all of the covers/panels etc. off, I found the wires and they
looked fine. However they were broken inside the insulation. I spliced and
soldered both back together and it worked! Saved hundreds of dollars and only
took a few hours (going slowly and with interruptions). Hope this helps
someone
else out!
alleyratsmeta...@gmail.com
MummyChunk
going inside it to the autostick buttons. There are two wires; every
time you shift from park to drive, the wires are bent. Eventually they
they are broken, you can try to splice them back together or replace
them with new ones.
Another possible cause of the problem is a faulty transmission control
module (TCM) or a bad lever select pawl3. The TCM is the computer that
controls the transmission and the auto-stick function. The lever
select pawl is the part that engages the auto-stick mode when you move
the shift lever. You can test the TCM with a scan tool or a multimeter
and see if it sends the correct signals to the auto-stick buttons. You
can also inspect the lever select pawl and see if it is worn or
damaged.
This is a response to the post seen at:
http://www.jlaforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=8433522#8433522