My friend has struggled with a dealer for months attempting to get the
pinging problem fixed. There are actually two TSBs on the pinging problem,
however both proposed solutions failed to remedy the situation. One fix
was to download new code to the computer, the other was to re-route
(shuffle)the spark plug wires. In both cases the dealer seemed to question
whether the engine was really pining because they "couldn't make the
problem repeat". This was extremely frustrating, because it pinged all the
time for us when on mild/steep hills and fully warmed up. Both of us are
aware of proper shift points and do not "work" the engine under 2000rpm. I
am fully aware that a pinging engine is not a healthy one.
An important note -- my friend has wasted far too much time holding the
dealers hand during the troubleshooting process. The whole problem has
become quite a joke, and in reality, the problem (which is not unique to
us) should have never made it out Chrysler's door. Judging from past
posts, Dodge continues to ignore the issue.
Anyway... we finally decided to take the pickup to another dealer even
though the dealer is located 40 miles away. This dealer happens to be
close to a very steep stretch of highway so we were hoping that this dealer
could make the problem repeat by driving this steep stretch of highway.
This turned out to be a good approach as this dealer had no problem making
the engine ping (making troubleshooting much easier). They tested for
proper fuel pressure and checked for intake (vacuum) leaks -- both checks
were ok. The next step was to work with the plugs, and this is where the
solution was found.
The theory is that, because Chrysler has the 318/360 engines running so hot
(to help meet emission standards), the plugs are actually running too hot
(red hot) and pre-igniting the fuel at times. The dealer replaced the
plugs with a cooler plug (one without the extended tip), and the pinging
went away (when climbing the grade). Unfortunately, I didn't get the part
# of the plugs they used, but I can find out this information if needed.
The dealer advises that an even cooler plug may be needed if the pinging
returns in hot weather. So, the process is to keep swapping plugs to the
next cooler part number until the pinging goes away. Once the proper plug
temp is selected, it should be good year round. My only concern is whether
or not the engine will pass emissions tests while running with the cooler
plugs. In our case, this is somewhat a non-issue since we live in a rural
area that lacks emissions tests.
Now, if I can offer my opinion on this matter... It's nice to finally have
a solution, but...
Wouldn't it be nice if a person could fork out $20-$30k for a Dodge truck
and not have to wonder if they will end up with a self-destructing, pinging
V8 engine? It's a joke that Dodge customers have to purchase a noisy
non-Chrysler-built diesel engine (Cummins) to ensure fuel economy,
reliability and resale. When was the last time you heard about a pinging
Chev 350 or 5.3?
I've seen posts lately discussing how great the 318/360 engines are and how
Chrysler should not replace them. I wonder how many people posting those
comments have a Cummins engine in their truck? Truth is, with today's
computer-controlled ignitions, spark knock detection, etc, there is
absolutely no excuse for a Chrysler to continue delivering vehicles with
pinging engines. Chrysler's competetion has proven this. Considering that
Chrysler is dedicating their R&D time to the new 4.7 V8, we can be assured
that Chrysler is not interested in solving the pinging 318/360 problem for
existing owners. Fortunately for us, we found a dealer (at least a
mechanic at a dealer) that is much more dedicated to problem solving than
Chrysler is.
I hope this information is helpful to others experiencing the same problem.
Mark
'98 Cummins (12 Valve) Sport Quad Cab Short Box, 5 sp, 3.55 Axle
'96 Yamaha Waveblaster
Also , I have a 98 Dakota R/T with the same problem . It only does it when the
engine is warm , and under load (i.e: going up a hill , giving it alot of gas)
.
I have heard other people say that the dealer tells them to just run higher
octane fuel . This is not an acceptable solution and in fact is a band-aid at
best . If they tell you to run higher octane , tell them that the owner's
manual says that nothing over 87 octane is needed and if they push it , tell
them that you will sue them for fraud if they try to make you run high-octane
fuel .
Waiting for a software update in the spring for mine to see if that works .
For your case, I would seriously suggest running cooler plugs (try to make
the dealer swap them). It is very hard on the engine to let it ping. The
operating life of the engine could be seriously affected and that was a
concern of ours. Again, the cooler plugs seemed to cure the problem for
us. If the problem is related to overheating spark plugs, I doubt that
Chrysler can fix it through a program change.
I sympathize with your situation because it really is a royal pain.
Good luck,
Mark
Dakota R/T <he...@charter.net> wrote in article
<36C34344...@charter.net>...
I just rerouted my spark plug wires according to the TSB you mentioned
(#18-48-98). The procedure is as follows:
5.2/5.9:
Reroute the coil wire along the inside of the valve cover (beside the
intake). Any excess wire should end up on the distributor end. Route
the distributor end of the wire down and behind the intake manifold in
front of the oil pressure switch.
Reroute the #8 plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve
cover. This will make it cross the other wires at a 90 degree angle.
Reroute the #4 plug wire as follows: At the 3-wire clip at the front
of the right valve cover, place the #2 wire in the top slot and the #4
wire in the bottom slot, leaving the middle slot empty. At the 5-wire
clip at the rear of the right valve cover, place the #4 wire in a slot
that will give the greatest allowable distance from the #8 wire (this
is usually the inside lower slot). Remove any slack in the #4 wire
between the two clips. Route the #4 wire behind the transmission
dipstick tube and heater hoses (this may not be possible in all
instances; the wire is _barely_ long enough to do this). Make sure
the #4 wire is at least 1 inch away from the #8 wire.
Verify that the #7 wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves
the cap between the #3 and #6 wires (for 1998 and earlier vehicles).
Make sure the #7 wire is at least 1 inch away from the #5 wire.
Reroute the #5 wire over the top of the left valve cover in front of
the breather tube.
3.9:
Reroute the coil wire down the inside of the valve cover similar to
the 5.2/5.9 procedure.
This seemed to solve the pinging problem in my 97 5.2 Dakota, but I
still have a miss at idle that developed after I changed plugs. Im
not sure yet if it is the plugs or I broke a wire. Once I solve this
problem I'll post an update.
Hope this helps.
My truck's engine was happier after installing Champion Truck plugs, which
are also a cooler heat range than what Dodge installed.
Dodge might not be able to change what heat range they use because the
engine has already been certified for emissions using the current spark
plugs. If they changed plugs, they might have to recertify the engine
again. This is no excuse for not doing it right the first time, though.
They should also let the dealers know about this problem and its solution.
Brian
It sounds like replacing plugs or wires is a pain on the Ram, the time
allowance is twice that of the Dakota according to the TSB. The
Dakota's hard enough, I had to remove the airbox to change the
passenger side plugs.
In article <01be560d$fb557d40$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>, "Web"
<markno...@selinc.com> wrote:
>I agree 100% that running higher octane fuel is an unacceptable solution.
>In our area we pay $0.20 - $0.25 more for premium. On a vehicle that gets
>11-16 mpg this is asking a lot of the owner to accept. Besides, we tried
>it and it didn't help much.
>
>For your case, I would seriously suggest running cooler plugs (try to make
>the dealer swap them). It is very hard on the engine to let it ping. The
>operating life of the engine could be seriously affected and that was a
>concern of ours. Again, the cooler plugs seemed to cure the problem for
>us. If the problem is related to overheating spark plugs, I doubt that
>Chrysler can fix it through a program change.
>
>I sympathize with your situation because it really is a royal pain.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Mark
>
>
>Dakota R/T <he...@charter.net> wrote in article
><36C34344...@charter.net>...
Sorry it took so long... all we had was the Mopar part #. I ended up
removing a plug to get the Champion part # which is: RC12YC
Again, this particular Dakota had what I considered an extremely bad
pinging problem. The new cooler spark plug has remedied the problem so
far.
Mark
Tim <t...@eagnet.com> wrote in article <36c3541...@news.eagnet.com>...
> Get the part number and manufacturer of the new plugs and post it, I
> might try this myself.
>
snip snip...
Phrede
Web <markno...@selinc.com> wrote in message
news:01be55f5$40fca440$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com...
>I've read all the posts lately about the pinging 318/360 Chrysler engines
>in Dakotas and Rams. I have a friend who happens to own a pinging '98 4x4
>Dakota 5 speed (318). As of today, we think the problem is finally
>resolved. I'm hoping that others may benefit from our findings. First
..........
I considered the idea of cooling the heads down with a lower temp
thermostat, however the dealer didn't. For warranty/emissions reasons, I'm
quite sure the dealer isn't allowed to install a non-factory spec'd
thermostat. The cooler thermostat may fix the pinging but could cause
other problems.
I think most current gas engines (someone please correct me if I'm wrong)
use a 192° thermostat for many reasons -- primarily for emissions but also
for fuel mileage. I'm not sure to what degree the fuel mileage would be
affected but I wouldn't want it to get any worse.
Another consideration is that supposedly there is a sensor somewhere that
feeds the computer emissions level information. If emissions exceed a
certain level the Check Engine light illuminates.
Because of the computer control/monitoring, it seems best to keep the
engine running as close to factory specs as possible (just my opinion).
The cooler spark plugs seem like a reasonable solution as long as it keeps
working.
Mark
Phrede <phr...@isoc.net> wrote in article
<GF6x2.562$_B2....@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
On 12 Feb 1999 21:37:54 GMT, "Web" <markno...@selinc.com> wrote:
>Tim,
>
>Sorry it took so long... all we had was the Mopar part #. I ended up
>removing a plug to get the Champion part # which is: RC12YC
>
>Again, this particular Dakota had what I considered an extremely bad
>pinging problem. The new cooler spark plug has remedied the problem so
>far.
>
>Mark
>
>
>Tim <t...@eagnet.com> wrote in article <36c3541...@news.eagnet.com>...
>> Get the part number and manufacturer of the new plugs and post it, I
>> might try this myself.
>>
>snip snip...
On Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:52:01 -0500, "Phrede" <phr...@isoc.net> wrote:
>Forgive me if this sounds crazy but ... has anyone considered replacing
>there thermostat with a 180 degree one?
>
>Phrede
>
>Because of the computer control/monitoring, it seems best to keep the
>engine running as close to factory specs as possible (just my opinion).
Good thinking.
Fitch
1995 Reg. Cab 2500SLT/12V/5spd/4.10
1999 QC 3500SLT/24V/5spd/3.55
As for changing therms, it's only a partial solution. Yes, the engine
will run a little closer (cooler) to the desired temp. range, but know
the fan is going to cycle more often, and/or, run all of the time. So
instead of better performance, you are likely to loose HP and decrease
MPG. The total solution? Replace the stock fan with an electric one! A
new therm and electric fan will increase power and torque, while
improving milage to boot!
As always, it pays to shop around.
Wait a minute. Something's wrong with this logic. The engine is
going to produce "X" amount of heat. Putting in a lower degree
thermostat means it's going to open at a lower temperature, transfering
more heat to the radiator. The radiator is now required to exchange
more heat energy to the air, causing the fan to be engaged more.
Dontcha remember "conservation of energy" from 9th grade science?
Eisboch
Eisboch
Just joking with you......try it and see what happens. We can 'theorize'
this to death, but the proof is in actually doing it.
Gary at No Bull Transmission Service
Jacksonville, IL; where Cruise Night is September 25th in 1999.
Questions Cheerfully Answered, Accuracy Not Guaranteed
e-mail to: glaenzeratrtprodotnet
Easy-Out (n): A device ten times as hard as any known drill bit.
............................................................................
........................................
Eisboch wrote in message <36C80D...@vptec.com>...
It appears that the cooler spark plugs helped to remedy the pinging problem
but it still isn't completely fixed. We drove the Dakota for 75+ miles
this weekend and I found that it still pings. The problem consistently
appears when climbing a fairly steep incline in fourth gear (5 sp. tranny)
with the tach at 2300+ RPMs.
Looks like it's back to the dealer (again...). I assume the dealer will
try yet another cooler spark plug. I have to wonder how many other
318s/360s are pinging? I also wonder how many are pinging but going
unnoticed (many don't know what to listen for).
The Dakota is a real nice truck... great suspension, handling, power, nice
tranny, nice 4x4 system, nice size, nice looks, etc. But this pinging
engine is getting real old real fast and is totally unacceptable.
Bottom line... don't rush out and change your spark plugs expecting the
pinging to go away. Keep pushing Chrysler to find a real solution.
Mark
Web <markno...@selinc.com> wrote in article
<01be56cf$f2b01e80$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
> Tim,
>
> Sorry it took so long... all we had was the Mopar part #. I ended up
> removing a plug to get the Champion part # which is: RC12YC
>
> Again, this particular Dakota had what I considered an extremely bad
> pinging problem. The new cooler spark plug has remedied the problem so
> far.
>
> Mark
>
>
> Tim <t...@eagnet.com> wrote in article
<36c3541...@news.eagnet.com>...
> > Get the part number and manufacturer of the new plugs and post it, I
> > might try this myself.
> >
> snip snip...
>
Andy........
I'm following this thread closely and can't help wondering what the spark plug
wires have to do with pinging. The engine fires every 90 degrees, no way you can
induce a cross fire that will cause a ping. Could someone explain this, please?
Al
"S.T. Arvey" wrote:
> I'm just curious: What happens when you try octane-89 instead of 87. (I
> don't remember if you mentioned whether you tried it). I've posted alot of
> things (more questions than answers) in this newsgroup about pinging Dakotas
> over the past month or two (and i mentioned my octane-89 result). I also was
> curious how common a problem it is, but WE'LL NEVER KNOW (unless someone like
> consumer reports does a "survey" with random sampling, etc.
>
> In article <01be591b$65395dc0$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>, "Web"
> >> > Get the part number and manufacturer of the new plugs and post it, I
> >> > might try this myself.
> >> >
> >> snip snip...
> >>
Bill Dames
se...@msn.com
In article <01be591b$65395dc0$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>, "Web"
<markno...@selinc.com> wrote:
>Bad news...
>
>It appears that the cooler spark plugs helped to remedy the pinging problem
>but it still isn't completely fixed. We drove the Dakota for 75+ miles
>this weekend and I found that it still pings. The problem consistently
>appears when climbing a fairly steep incline in fourth gear (5 sp. tranny)
>with the tach at 2300+ RPMs.
>
>Looks like it's back to the dealer (again...). I assume the dealer will
>try yet another cooler spark plug. I have to wonder how many other
>318s/360s are pinging? I also wonder how many are pinging but going
>unnoticed (many don't know what to listen for).
>
>The Dakota is a real nice truck... great suspension, handling, power, nice
>tranny, nice 4x4 system, nice size, nice looks, etc. But this pinging
>engine is getting real old real fast and is totally unacceptable.
>
>Bottom line... don't rush out and change your spark plugs expecting the
>pinging to go away. Keep pushing Chrysler to find a real solution.
>
>Mark
>
>
>Web <markno...@selinc.com> wrote in article
><01be56cf$f2b01e80$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
>> Tim,
>>
>> Sorry it took so long... all we had was the Mopar part #. I ended up
>> removing a plug to get the Champion part # which is: RC12YC
>>
>> Again, this particular Dakota had what I considered an extremely bad
>> pinging problem. The new cooler spark plug has remedied the problem so
>> far.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> Tim <t...@eagnet.com> wrote in article
><36c3541...@news.eagnet.com>...
>> > Get the part number and manufacturer of the new plugs and post it, I
>> > might try this myself.
>> >
>> snip snip...
>>
Hint...Next time you change the sparkplugs, get a plug that is a cooler
plug. A colder plug will reduce detonation and preignition. Try it, you
guys with pinging. Even with the cooler plug. I use mid grade while
towing any significant weight.
Perry
It's my understanding that if a plug wire is bad and the plug has a weak spark,
the cylinder will not have a comlplete burn resulting in a rich burn. The
oxygen sensor will pick up the rich contition and adjust by lowering the amount
of fuel going to all of the injectors. Now all of the good cylinders have a
lean condition causing the engine to ping. The O2 sensor can't adjust for each
cylinder only the whole engine.So with the original cylinder(s) running rich
and the rest of them lean the end result is within the proper spec.
Wow. For some odd reason when I asked my dealer about the plugs, he
insisted that I use the RC12LC4 on my 1998 1500 4x4. Does anyone know
what the difference between the RC12YC and the RC12LC4 is?
If I remember correctly, the Champion RC12LC4 is the factory specified
spark plug for the 318 (5.2L). The Champion RC12YC is a cooler plug, and
if you compare it to the factory plug, it has a shorter tip (does not
extend as far from the insulation). The shorter tip should keep the plug
running cooler and also reduce the likelihood of pre-ignition problems. If
your service department doesn't understand the logic of running the cooler
plug, they will likely tell you to stick with the factory plug. There
should be no harm in running the cooler RC12YC plug.
It is interesting to note that the Champion book recommends the RC12YC for
the 360. Our dealer thought the cooler characteristics of the RC12YC would
help the 318 pinging problem. As I mentioned before, running the RC12YC
seemed to reduce the pinging did not eliminate it.
The troubleshooting process continues with no solution in sight.
Mark
Brian Greer <bgr...@earthlink.n0spam.net> wrote in article
<slrn7ckak0...@localhost.localdomain>...
This plug may or may not have a cooler running tip, but technically it is
not a "cooler" plug. The heat range of the plug is determined by the
material inside the porcelin (usually copper nowadays), and its ability to
draw heat away from the combustion chamber ("heat sink"). Within the
Champion line a lower number would be a colder plug, an "11" or less in this
case. I used to run "9's" in my old Duster 340, and "7's" in my Suzuki
GS100, but those were high compression engines. Ahhh leaded gas, those were
the days! Anyway, all "12's", by convention, are the same as far as heat
range is concerned. (Can't speak to "small engine" plugs.)
Numbers across manufacturers are not comparable, and some manufacturers go
higher in number for a cooler plug. This specific info is only for Champion.
If I also remember correctly, the "L" indictates a "special" tip of some
sort, longer according to Mark... I believe Champion calls it "extended",
and the "4" at the end indicates the plug was designed for a 0.040 gap. The
tip change would be to put it into a slightly different location within the
combustion chamber. if in fact it is extended.
Regards,
Frank
Web wrote in message <01be5ab7$62a8d7a0$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
Thanks much for the info -- that's good stuff and clears up some questions
I had. So, in theory the dealer's recommendation simply pulls the spark
plug tip back, slightly reducing the likelihood that a red hot tip will
cause pre-ignition.
We contacted the dealer to let them know the problem persists even with the
shorter-tipped plug. They did not offer other suggestions for spark plug
modifications. In fact, the dealer seemed sincerely sympathetic and said
that they are out of ideas and suggested we contact Chrysler Customer
Service (800-992-1997). I spoke with a gentleman in Customer Service who
said he would "open a file" and have someone contact us. That was two days
ago and we are still waiting... they must by busy...
Mark
bigFrank <gracie...@ma.ultranet.com> wrote in article
<7afgug$tao$1...@ligarius.ultra.net>...
.
.
.
.
On Wed, 17 Feb 1999 17:47:29 -0500, "bigFrank"
<gracie...@ma.ultranet.com> wrote:
>My 95 Dakota 318 came with the RC12YC plugs. I wonder what year they
>switched?
>And if I could stick my 2 cents in...
>
>This plug may or may not have a cooler running tip, but technically it is
>not a "cooler" plug. The heat range of the plug is determined by the
>material inside the porcelin (usually copper nowadays), and its ability to
>draw heat away from the combustion chamber ("heat sink"). Within the
>Champion line a lower number would be a colder plug, an "11" or less in this
>case. I used to run "9's" in my old Duster 340, and "7's" in my Suzuki
>GS100, but those were high compression engines. Ahhh leaded gas, those were
>the days! Anyway, all "12's", by convention, are the same as far as heat
>range is concerned. (Can't speak to "small engine" plugs.)
>
>Numbers across manufacturers are not comparable, and some manufacturers go
>higher in number for a cooler plug. This specific info is only for Champion.
>If I also remember correctly, the "L" indictates a "special" tip of some
>sort, longer according to Mark... I believe Champion calls it "extended",
>and the "4" at the end indicates the plug was designed for a 0.040 gap. The
>tip change would be to put it into a slightly different location within the
>combustion chamber. if in fact it is extended.
>
>Regards,
>Frank
>
I don't believe in de-tuning the engine, which is what they do when they
"flash" a new program into the computer, and forcing the engine to run in a
less "happy" place. If folks really don't want to spend the extra for the
higher octane, which I believe is better all around, I would look for a 185
degree thermostat. That will definitely make the engine less ping sensitive,
will still give decent heat if you need it, and allow the computer to have
no problem reaching "closed-loop" mode, which I believe begins at 182
degrees F. It will still allow a well tuned engine to pass emissions if
needed. I worry about the 180 degree thermostats which are more common.
Engines tend to run about 10 degrees hotter than the thermostat because of
system dynamics, but a 180 would be like having a vehicle with a "lazy"
choke... the engine would spend more time in "open loop" mode during
warm-up, which is using the stored, "cold settings" in the computer, instead
of the more optimal, feed-back, "closed loop", real time mode.
Regards,
Frank
Tim wrote in message <36cca11...@news.eagnet.com>...
Chryco Service Manager
SAE Member
Web wrote in message <01be591b$65395dc0$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
>Bad news...
>
>It appears that the cooler spark plugs helped to remedy the pinging problem
>but it still isn't completely fixed. We drove the Dakota for 75+ miles
>this weekend and I found that it still pings. The problem consistently
>appears when climbing a fairly steep incline in fourth gear (5 sp. tranny)
>with the tach at 2300+ RPMs.
>
>Looks like it's back to the dealer (again...). I assume the dealer will
>try yet another cooler spark plug. I have to wonder how many other
>318s/360s are pinging? I also wonder how many are pinging but going
>unnoticed (many don't know what to listen for).
>
>The Dakota is a real nice truck... great suspension, handling, power, nice
>tranny, nice 4x4 system, nice size, nice looks, etc. But this pinging
>engine is getting real old real fast and is totally unacceptable.
>
>Bottom line... don't rush out and change your spark plugs expecting the
>pinging to go away. Keep pushing Chrysler to find a real solution.
>
>Mark
>
>
>Web <markno...@selinc.com> wrote in article
><01be56cf$f2b01e80$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
>> Tim,
>>
>> Sorry it took so long... all we had was the Mopar part #. I ended up
>> removing a plug to get the Champion part # which is: RC12YC
>>
n article <36ccd...@news.fidnet.com>, "Mike Simmons" <mik...@fidnet.com>
wrote:
Thanks for the info. I am talking about a '98 Dakota, although judging by
other posters the problem is not specific to a certain year. I am curious
to know if anyone is having pinging problems with '99s since they have a
new computer.
The Dakota I'm speaking about has been to the dealer once already for a
factory recommended (TSB) software update. This was approximately three
months ago and did absolutely no good. I would be interested in knowing if
there is yet another update available for the '98 Dakota.
As far as walnut-shell-blasting the combustion chamber, I have to wonder
how often this procedure would be necessary?
Thanks,
Mark
Mike Simmons <mik...@fidnet.com> wrote in article
<36ccd...@news.fidnet.com>...
Web wrote in message <01be5c4e$9a9345e0$ce64...@markwepc.selinc.com>...
Yes, the NGK plugs are just opposite, the higher #, the cooler the plug
range.
Perry
That is great info! This also means that I can use the RC12YC's if I
can't find the Champion truck-plugs. My dealer was adamant about checking
labels for the "proper plug, because there are two types".
>seemed to reduce the pinging did not eliminate it.
>The troubleshooting process continues with no solution in sight.
If I come up with a combination (ie, 89 octane + cool plugs etc) that
works, I'll let you know...
Thanks for looking that plug spec up.
>The problem is related to the gasket that seals the cover to the bottom of
>the manifold on the Magnum engines. If this gasket does not seal properly,
>the engine can suck in oil vapors from the lifter valley and cause the
>engine to detonate due to the aggressive spark advance curve used in the
>Magnum computers. Remembering where this gasket is located, this is not
the
>first thing that you want to do. It could be expensive and time consuming
>to pull off the intake to check. However, we have a helpful tip. To
>determine if there is a proper seal, remove the PCV (Positive Crankcase
>Ventilation) valve from the right hand valve cover, but leave the PCV valve
>attached to the hose from the intake manifold. Remove the breather hose
>from the left-hand valve cover that goes to the air cleaner. Plug-off the
>connection at the valve cover. With the engine idling, place your thumb
>over the opening where the PCV valve was located. After 10-15 seconds you
>should feel pressure, which indicates that the gasket is sealing. If you
>feel a vacuum, the gasket is leaking and needs to be repaired. The best
>repair is to remove the intake manifold, remove the bottom plate and
discard
>the failed or leaking gasket. Clean all the surfaces thoroughly, and apply
>a bead of Mopar RTV sealant, PN 82300235 to the bottom of the manifold.
>Re-install the plate, let dry and then re-install the manifold. Refer to
>the service manual for manifold installation tips and details.
--
'92 Dak CC 2wd 318 3.55
'84 GoldWing Interstate
'95 1500 4wd 5.2 46rh 3.55
'82 Ramcharger 4wd 440 727 4.10
'67 PLy Belvedere 446 727 3.91
Regards,
Frank
magnum 488 wrote in message
<10207-36...@newsd-232.iap.bryant.webtv.net>...
Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE
Mike Simmons wrote in message <36ccd...@news.fidnet.com>...
>To add yet another thread to this seemingly endless discussion, I forthwith
>will throw my two cents worth in!
>I was unable to determine what model year 5.2L/5.9L engines we are dealing
>with, however Chryco just released a TSB that offers a software update that
>allows the dealer to "tweak" the timing slightly to alleviate abnormal
>engine ping. This TSB does not apply to all model years, so let me know
>what year and I will check for you or check with your dealer. Also, I have
>found that an excess carbon buildup in the combustion chamber can be the
>cause of a lot of abnormal engine ping. It seems that the carbon deposits
>retain heat from the power stroke (ugly Ford word!) and incandesce and
allow
>preignition of the air/fuel mixture. A good commercial combustion chamber
>cleaner, or in severe cases sand blasting the chamber with walnut shells
>thru the spark plug holes has fixed many of these cases. Good Luck!
>
>Chryco Service Manager
>SAE Member
>
RJ
....
Mike Simmons wrote:
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In article <36D4CBB9...@home.com>, "Michael J. McDonough"
Earle Horton
Fort Collins, CO
"S.T. Arvey" wrote:
>
> Same here, with a 1998 Dakota 3.9L. It's worth nothing that the manual
> says "light pinging will not harm the engine", but who knows what "light"
> pinging is.
>
...