Fuel filter change on 24 valve cummins
Gary Banowetz
fuel filter change. It looks as if I do the following:
1. Drain fuel from cannister.
2. Remove cannister bottom and remove old filter.
3. Insert new filter and fill cannister with clean fuel.
4. Reattach cannister bottom to top.
Three questions:
1. Have I missed anything so far?
2. How do I bleed air from the cannister? There are two
brass-looking screws on the top of the cannister. I
assume one of these is used for bleeding. How do I pump
fuel into the cannister to displace the air?
3. Is there any prefilter of screen on this model that needs
cleaning when the filter is changed?
Thanks for any tips.
Gary Banowetz
Greg Surratt
Courtesy of the guys on the Cummins and DIRT mailing lists, I saved
these messages on filter changes. They pretty much cover the entire
job:
The Mopar filter will have instructions included with it. Look
for a small paper in the package with the o-rings. Its not as
bad as it looks, even with 4WAL.
In general:
Get a step or stool to stand on and a towel to protect your
fender.
Place a can under fuel filter drain hose (I lengthened mine so it
wouldn't drip on the axle/frame).
Drain all fuel from the filter housing.
Close drain valve and remove drain hose from housing.
Remove water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor wiring connector.
Place plastic bag under filter area to catch drips.
Loosen nut on top of filter housing until bottom housing is free.
Make sure to hold bottom of filter housing or it will drop and
the residual will spill (Ask me how I know).
When lower housing is free, lower and remove from top housing.
Remove filter element from housing noting location of o-rings.
Replace filter element and install new o-rings. Lubricate
o-rings before installing (I just dipped in the diesel that I
drained, worked OK).
Align bottom housing with top housing and replace nut.
Tighten nut to ~15-20 ft-lbs (I forgot the exact value, call your
dealer for correct number).
Connect drain tube and WIF sensor harness.
Remove plastic bag.
Prime filter by turning ignition to Start briefly, then back to
Run. The electric lift pump will run for about 20s. Repeat once,
then try to start. If it won't start after 10-15s of cranking
repeat priming procedure again.
Run for a few minutes and check for leaks.
Another message said:
30 minutes, tops, first time, including clean up. Shouldn't take
more than 15 min thereafter.
The 1997-1998 12-valve engines used FS19522.
The 1998-1/2 24-valve engines use FS19528.
The 1997-1998 12-valve engines now also use FS19528
The filters are visually identical except for a color stripe,
but FS19528 is a slightly better filter (which was released when the
ISB was introduced). Cummins' and Chrysler's parts systems have been
purged of FS19522 (we think), but you may still find one on the shelf.
If you do, it's fine to use it on a 12-valve engine, but NOT on a
24-valve engine (ISB).
Oh yeah, each FS19528 comes with all the o-ring seals you need
to replace the filter.
On that note, you should not remove the filter cannister
unless you intend to replace the filter. The o-rings swell when
exposed to fuel (by design), making it impossible to reliably
reassemble the filter cannister with old o-rings.
24-valve turbodiesel (ISB) fuel filter replacement hint:
We recommend opening the water drain on the fuel filter cannister for
a couple of seconds before you remove it to drain the fuel level down
below the top. Then you can remove the filter cannister (which holds
the filter cartridge) without making too much of a mess. Once you
reinstall the filter and get ready to start, you need to get the
electric lift pump to run for more than the few seconds it runs for
when you first turn the key on to get the filter cannister refilled
with fuel. To do this, "bump" the key to from "ON" to "START" and then
back to "ON". The object is to get the engine to turn over but not to
run. This will cause the lift pump to run for about 25 seconds. If you
only drained a little fuel out, then one lift pump cycle should be
enough. If it's fully drained, you should do two or three cycles. Then
you can proceed to start the engine normally (it may take more
cranking than usual to start).
Greg
'98 3500 QC 4x2 Cummins ISB, Auto, 3.54:1,
Driftwood with Leather and all the heavy duty options.
'80 Fleetwood Prowler, 23 footer.
ROY
deal real quick if that was my toy. I have a Prime Loc on my 12V, simplifies
everything to a 3 min.R&R. Maybe they make a set up for 24V?
Later,
Roy
Greg Surratt wrote in message <37856b2d...@netnews.worldnet.att.net>...
Scott
have a copy of the CC Master Tech Reference Book from Feb 98. It was
given to me by a service manager friend of mine. The only thing i
would like to add is that CC makes the following statement. "The new
Cummins engine also brings with it some service procedures that are
different than they have been in the past. One on these is purging
air from the low-pressure side of the fuel system after a fuel filter
change or if the vehicle runs out of fuel" .This is accomplished by
loosening the banjo bolt at the low-pressure fuel supply line on the
side of the fuel injection pump. Then run the transfer pump by to
purge the air. I have had good luck doing it this way right or wrong.
I just figured since CC went to the trouble to tell their mechanics to
do it this way I would give it a try.
Scott