Let it warm up before you take off and don't drive between 40-60 mph.
beekeep
Jay
"DSSR" <dssres...@home.com> wrote in message
news:8rQT5.15205$Z9.8...@news1.rdc1.mb.home.com...
Good Luck!!
Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE
Jay Eberhard <sno...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:s_VT5.325053$4d.40...@news02.optonline.net...
Check with your dealer regarding the TSB. If you have trouble getting a
copy, let me know and I will find the info for you and mail it. I am at
home as I write this and the TSB # escapes me. I think it was issued in '99
tho'
Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE
joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:ybwU5.50710$34.6...@e420r-sjo3.usenetserver.com...
I've rerouted the wires according to the TSB 18-48-98. No effect other than
my code 43's have gone away, but it runs the same as before. DSSR have you
found a cure for this problem yet? It has gotten really bad on my truck.
I'm now getting 10 mpg! For those of you just joining, our trucks are
stuttering very badly particularly in Overdrive. I've noticed on mine that
it occurs mostly when the engine rpms are under 1750 and in a high gear.
The TSB says 45 mph, but you can actually "induce" the condition at
different speeds by getting the truck up to speed and allowing it to then
drop off rpms to below 1750. If you get it going up a slight incline you
can really feel it. It'll shake your coffee out of the cup holder...and of
course right into your radio.
Damn!! Based upon your description, I sure thought the rerouting of the
wires per the TSB would fix it! My '97 BR 5.2/46RE did the same thing at
60K after I replaced the original wires with new ones. After I did the
rerouting, the problem went away. Are the wires on your truck in good
shape? Distributor cap OK? I still have to think that it is an ignition
misfire based upon your description. Hmmmmm... let me think on this one a
little more.
Mike
joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:AjQV5.113$fG3....@e420r-sjo2.usenetserver.com...
Also, check the throttle position sensor (TPS)....
There are many things that can cause this.
Some things to check are:
1. Measure the resistance of each plug wire with an ohmmeter. It
should be less than 10,000 ohms per foot, it will generally be 1/5 of
this.
2. Look at the distributor cap and rotor inside and outside for
cracks or carbon tracks.
3. Are the wires fully pushed on the plugs and the in the cap and
coil?
4. If any wire end has black or green crap on the metal you have a
problem on that end.
5. Is the carbon button in the cap long enough to touch the rotor
button?
6. Install new spark plugs. Did it get better? If so you are on
the right track keep digging.
7. The coil may be going bad. Epoxy potted coils do not last as
long as the old oil filled cans.
8. Is the rotor fully pushed all the way on the shaft. Don’t laugh
This was the only problem on a car that at least three people changed
lots of parts and still had not fixed the problem.
9. When several things can cause the problem change the cheap stuff
first.
On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 11:17:46 -0500, "joeblow" <joe...@nowhere.com>
wrote:
I changed the cap, rotor and all eight plugs the other day in less than 30
minutes - not bad for a V-8 in a little truck. =)
--
'92 Dak CC 2wd 318 3.55
'84 GoldWing Interstate
joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:3vQW5.3671$936....@e420r-sjo3.usenetserver.com...
You forgot to change the points and condenser?
Al took my car but he gave me the horn
"Old age and treachery will overcome" Al Gore 2000
"Happiness is crushing your ass kicking big block Mopar" Al Gore 2000