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Truck stumbles and shakes in overdrive?

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DSSR

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Nov 25, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/25/00
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Hello, I have a 1996 Dodge Ram sport 4x4 with the 318 it has a problem where
it stumbles at speed 40-60mph but only in over drive not in regular gear and
it also, It backfires when the truck is cold? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
DSSR

beekeep

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Nov 25, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/25/00
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On Sat, 25 Nov 2000 14:57:08 GMT, "DSSR" <dssres...@home.com>
wrote:

Let it warm up before you take off and don't drive between 40-60 mph.

beekeep


Jay Eberhard

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Nov 25, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/25/00
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I had a similar situation with my truck a few years ago and it turned out to
be a bad spark plug.

Jay

"DSSR" <dssres...@home.com> wrote in message
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Mike Simmons

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Nov 25, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/25/00
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You may possibly be experiencing ignition crossfire thru the plug wires.
Make sure that none of the wires are running parallel to each other AND when
they do cross, they cross at a 90 degree angle. Your dealer has a TSB that
references this problem. There is a parts kit which includes new wire clips
and convolute insulation which will correct this problem IF that's what's
causing it.

Good Luck!!

Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE

Jay Eberhard <sno...@optonline.net> wrote in message
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joeblow

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Nov 27, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/27/00
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You are not alone....My truck is doing the same thing, but I've got a
360cid. It could be this crosstalk thing he is talking about. My truck
started acting up about 2 months ago. Since then I've put on a new
cap/rotor/plugs and plug wires (all MOPAR of course). But it continues to
buck in overdrive with the occasional backfire through the intake plenum.
If it follows my truck, it's going to get worse. Does anyone know where we
can get a copy of the "convoluted" wiring TSB. I know when I bought the new
plug wires, the coil wire was about 4" shorter. I contacted the service
department that said the coil wire was "rerouted" between the valve cover
and the intake manifold. I assume it was due to heat, since the coil post
on my cap was completely baked when I replaced it.

Mike Simmons

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Nov 27, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/27/00
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Joe:

Check with your dealer regarding the TSB. If you have trouble getting a
copy, let me know and I will find the info for you and mail it. I am at
home as I write this and the TSB # escapes me. I think it was issued in '99
tho'

Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE

joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
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joeblow

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Nov 27, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/27/00
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From alldata.com, the TSB is #18-48-98.
Thanks for the tip, I'll let you know if it fixes the issue.

joeblow

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Nov 27, 2000, 3:00:00 AM11/27/00
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joeblow

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Dec 1, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/1/00
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UPDATE:

I've rerouted the wires according to the TSB 18-48-98. No effect other than
my code 43's have gone away, but it runs the same as before. DSSR have you
found a cure for this problem yet? It has gotten really bad on my truck.
I'm now getting 10 mpg! For those of you just joining, our trucks are
stuttering very badly particularly in Overdrive. I've noticed on mine that
it occurs mostly when the engine rpms are under 1750 and in a high gear.
The TSB says 45 mph, but you can actually "induce" the condition at
different speeds by getting the truck up to speed and allowing it to then
drop off rpms to below 1750. If you get it going up a slight incline you
can really feel it. It'll shake your coffee out of the cup holder...and of
course right into your radio.

Mike Simmons

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Dec 1, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/1/00
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Joe:

Damn!! Based upon your description, I sure thought the rerouting of the
wires per the TSB would fix it! My '97 BR 5.2/46RE did the same thing at
60K after I replaced the original wires with new ones. After I did the
rerouting, the problem went away. Are the wires on your truck in good
shape? Distributor cap OK? I still have to think that it is an ignition
misfire based upon your description. Hmmmmm... let me think on this one a
little more.

Mike

joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message

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mrdancer

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Dec 1, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/1/00
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Possibly a restricted exhaust?

Also, check the throttle position sensor (TPS)....

this.com

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Dec 3, 2000, 1:07:25 AM12/3/00
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One of the things that will cause this problem is low voltage to the
spark plugs.
Under high load low RPM conditions the spark plugs require more
voltage to fire. New spark plugs that have nice sharp electrode
edges require lower voltage than older worn plugs that have the same
gap setting.
On my sisters truck re routing the plug wires per the TSB ( I don’t
recall the number) fixed the problem. The dealer would change the
spark plugs and it would fix the problem for a couple of thousand
miles and then come back. I gave her a copy of the TSB and told her
to have the dealer do it. The dealer kept the truck for two days and
claimed they had complied with the TSB. A 30 second visual inspection
proved They did NOT!! I rerouted the wires per the TSB myself and
this finally fixed the problem she had for at least six months and
many trips to the dealer. This proves again there are good dealers
and some that need improvement.

There are many things that can cause this.
Some things to check are:
1. Measure the resistance of each plug wire with an ohmmeter. It
should be less than 10,000 ohms per foot, it will generally be 1/5 of
this.
2. Look at the distributor cap and rotor inside and outside for
cracks or carbon tracks.
3. Are the wires fully pushed on the plugs and the in the cap and
coil?
4. If any wire end has black or green crap on the metal you have a
problem on that end.
5. Is the carbon button in the cap long enough to touch the rotor
button?
6. Install new spark plugs. Did it get better? If so you are on
the right track keep digging.
7. The coil may be going bad. Epoxy potted coils do not last as
long as the old oil filled cans.
8. Is the rotor fully pushed all the way on the shaft. Don’t laugh
This was the only problem on a car that at least three people changed
lots of parts and still had not fixed the problem.
9. When several things can cause the problem change the cheap stuff
first.

On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 11:17:46 -0500, "joeblow" <joe...@nowhere.com>
wrote:

joeblow

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Dec 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/4/00
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Thanks for all the additional tips. I will continue to investigate the wire
issues, and I'll crack open the cap and well, basically start over and see
if I can find something screwy. Unfortunately I thought I was doing the
right thing all along with a new cap/rotor/plug wires/plug and coil. The
new plug wires came with the appropriate convolute so getting the clips was
the only missing element. Originally I took it to a dealer for diagnosis
and they wanted to charge $300 bucks for this simple job, albeit a pain in
the *(&. Whoever the genius was that decided to put the cap in the back has
never seen a screwdriver! I'm still willing to waste more time on it before
I cough up that much...jeese louise the parts were only $90. Is it possible
for the coil wire to interfere with the functioning of the fuel injectors?
It routes damn near over the top of the number 8 wires..

joeblow

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Dec 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/4/00
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Here's a thought, if I need higher voltage at high load low rpms, could I
get a high output coil to remedy the problem? Does Accel make one or is it
just a bad idea? Seems like many have had this same problem, that even if
fixed, recurs after a period of time.

mrdancer

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Dec 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/4/00
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Here's a tip for when you change out the cap&rotor. I keep eight
clothespins (I get the plastic ones at K-mart for $0.79 for four) and use a
Sharpie marker to number them 1 - 8 (actually have two different colors of
clothespins to make it even easier). Then I clip the clothespins to the
wires as I pull them off the cap, so they're easy to get back on in the
right order. It also makes swapping the cap easier when ALL of the wires
are out of the way.

I changed the cap, rotor and all eight plugs the other day in less than 30
minutes - not bad for a V-8 in a little truck. =)
--
'92 Dak CC 2wd 318 3.55
'84 GoldWing Interstate


joeblow <joe...@nowhere.com> wrote in message

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RedNeck TookOver Hell

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Dec 5, 2000, 12:48:10 AM12/5/00
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>
>I changed the cap, rotor and all eight plugs the other day in less than 30
>minutes - not bad for a V-8 in a little truck. =)

You forgot to change the points and condenser?


Al took my car but he gave me the horn
"Old age and treachery will overcome" Al Gore 2000
"Happiness is crushing your ass kicking big block Mopar" Al Gore 2000

joeblow

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Dec 5, 2000, 3:00:00 AM12/5/00
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I'm interested in this TPS, I can't find any information on it. Where is it
located? Also, there is a second cable that attaches to the throttle plate
that is secondary to the accelerator. Is that a part of it? It leads down
to a round unit under the battery bin. I've noticed this second cable has a
great deal of slack in it where it connects to the throttle plate, almost
enough to wonder if it would even engage if it was supposed to. I don't
know what the operation is for it so I can't tell if it is right or if it is
a potential problem area. Looks to me like the cable is stretched.

sge...@gmail.com

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Dec 30, 2018, 8:59:03 PM12/30/18
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Joe blow, the tps is “throttle positioning sensor” it’s locates on the right side “mechanics view” of the throttle body. That cable that u speak of is the cruise control cable, connect to a diaphragm under the battery.

Also I am having this same issue with the motor stumbling going into and out of overdrive, Also intermittently while in reverse the engine will fall on its face, stumble and die.
I am thinking that the TCC or OD/ reverse selinoid/ seals are going out.
Any advice is great, I also just let my plug wires fall where they go “away from exhaust” however and have not had any above mentioned issues with the plug wires

Cam

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Apr 29, 2023, 10:04:40 PM4/29/23
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What Is a Transmission Shudder?

Also known as a torque converter shudder, a transmission shudder refers to when your vehicle’s transmission begins to noticeably shake or tremble convulsively. In most cases, transmission shudders occur when shifting your vehicle into overdrive or when you drive up an inclined surface while your vehicle is already in overdrive.
Common Causes of a Transmission Shudder

When your vehicle starts to shake convulsively, it may seem like your transmission is significantly damaged and about to shut down completely. However, the primary cause of a shuddering transmission is simply contaminated transmission fluid.

When the fluid in a transmission becomes dirty and contaminated, the particles in the fluid prevent it from building up enough pressure in the transmission lines. In turn, this will prevent proper pressure contact between transmission plates when they are applied. As a result, the transmission will begin to shudder. For the same reason, transmission shudders may also occur when there is not an ample amount of transmission fluid.
How To Fix a Shuddering Transmission

Fortunately, fixing a shuddering transmission is often as simple as getting a transmission flush to replace the contaminated transmission fluid with clean, fresh fluid. If the cause of your shuddering transmission is low fluid rather than contaminated transmission fluid, you may just need to fill up your transmission with more fluid until it has the right amount.

In some cases, however, low transmission fluid may be caused by a leak that will need to be addressed and repaired in order to get your transmission working properly again. By practicing proper vehicle maintenance, such as getting regular transmission fluid changes, you will likely never have to experience a shuddering transmission ever again.
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