89 Ram 50 Carb Problem

[DonMunyak]

The dodge I have is the mitsubishi import, 2.6 liter, 5 spd 4x4.
Over the course of the last 30k miles, the performance of (I
think) the carb has spiraled downhill. When you try to
accellerate, the engine sounds like it either is flooded or
starved for fuel. The truck boggs down and starts jolting and
coughing to the point I need to let off pedal. This also occurs
going up hills and leaving a stop street. Standing still,
idling, the vacuum gauge is pretty steady.

I am not a mechanic, but I am a good parts changer. I've checked
the egr valve, vacuum lines and catalytice converter. Changed
the type of gas, fuel filter, air cleaner, spark plugs etc...
All check out.

Before I drop a few hundred dollars on a rebuilt carb, I want to
be sure. I also came across another thread where someone used a
weber k610 on an 88'. Anybody had experience with this verse oem
standard carbs? Also read something about a reed emission valve
and oxygen sensor possibly being the culprit?

Thanks

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[rifter]

Did you check the timing at all? My Ram did this when the timing got
messed up...

-josh

[Cereus121]

Those damn things have too many vacuum lines, don't they? You can't even pinch
the things to check for a leak, because they
use vacuum to control the thing. Also, I think (may be wrong) the 2.6 has a
chain, not a belt. I'd take it to a friendly mechanic and ask. There's just to
much under the hood on those things. Spend 40-50 on a diagnostic, versus 300
for those damn carbs.

[rifter]

I was talking ignition timing. I had it set at about 8 when it should have been
12. The vacuum held steady, but it was practically undrivable. It took forever
to get up to speed, and felt like I was stuck in first the whole thime. Even
going up a slight hill almost killed the engine.
But, once I got the timing set properly, it went smoothly.

-josh

[Wiliam Doran]

I have a 1989 Mitsubishi with a 2.6L, and it has the same problem. It's
been doing it for two years. I found out if I take off the cold air
intake tube to the air cleaner, it seems to run better. Also the warmer
the vehicle or weather is, the better it runs. And if I push the pedal
to the floor, the hesitation will temporarily go away. I also on
occasion in the winter have it idle rough for a bit. I think this is
due to the EGR valve sticking. I rev it up a few times and it fixes
itself. The first thing I will replace is the fuel pump. That is
because it's the cheapest component (even if it probably not the
problem). At 165,000 miles I have never had to replace anything major,
or take it to the dealer. I figure it's time to give it some new parts.
It's probably some part on the carburetor. Let me know if you get any
good answers.

Thanks
Bill Doran
wdo...@kconline.com

[John]

utes free!
> http://www.keen.com
>

[John]

com
>

[Don Munyak]

I am fairly certain it is not the fuel pump. I replaced the head gasket
1,500 miles ago and while I had it torn apart, I bought a new fuel pump.

When it was torn apart, the carb lay upside down accidentally and
drained the fuel. Consequently, when re-installed, the truck ran great
for a few days. My suspicions lead to a pin hole leak in the carb float
(possible). It seemed plausible.

I am pretty certain the timing is ok, because when we put it back
together, the timing had to be checked. I seem to recall checking the
timing belt(chain) for abnormal wear. I believe it was ok, since we
didn't change it.

I checked the EGR valve with a vacuum gauge, just as the chiltons said.
It checked out ok.

I also checked the vacuum advance on the distributer. It check out OK.

I think through process of elimination, just about everything has
either been checked or replaced. Or is there more?

Thanks for the responses so far

don

In article <sZQm5.3135$0a2....@typhoon2.ba-dsg.net>,
"John" <yello...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> <encoded_portion_removed>
> Y29tDQo+IA0K
>
>

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[Roy]

Take a look at your spark plugs. If you can't read them find somebody who
can, they will tell you the story regarding your float. Remember to mark the
so you know which cyl. they came out of. As for your timing, check it if
your in doubt.
Later,
Roy

"Don Munyak" <dmu...@p-a-link.com> wrote in message
news:8nhgpc$lhk$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[John]

you buy.

[Hemipower]

>The dodge I have is the mitsubishi import, 2.6 liter, 5 spd 4x4.
>Over the course of the last 30k miles, the performance of (I
>think) the carb has spiraled downhill. When you try to
>accellerate, the engine sounds like it either is flooded or
>starved for fuel. The truck boggs down and starts jolting and
>coughing to the point I need to let off pedal. This also occurs
>going up hills and leaving a stop street. Standing still,
>idling, the vacuum gauge is pretty steady.
>
>I am not a mechanic, but I am a good parts changer. I've checked
>the egr valve, vacuum lines and catalytice converter. Changed
>the type of gas, fuel filter, air cleaner, spark plugs etc...
>All check out.
>
>Before I drop a few hundred dollars on a rebuilt carb, I want to
>be sure. I also came across another thread where someone used a
>weber k610 on an 88'. Anybody had experience with this verse oem
>standard carbs? Also read something about a reed emission valve
>and oxygen sensor possibly being the culprit?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>
>

I had an 85 with the same problem
and it turned out to be the float
had a pin hole in it and was half
full of gas. I changed that and all
was well. I then found an 89 with
similar problem and real cheap because no one in town would touch it. I
thought it would be just as easy of a fix. Boy was I wrong. I also
found that removing the air tube
worked for awhile then I had to remove the air cleaner lid. I hate
running like this but for what I paid for it,oh well. It is a mystery that
has been hashed here with no
results before. I am about to try
the o2 sensor but am afraid it
will cost as much as the truck did.
I did however learn a lot of vehicles
run the same $1000.00 carb.
Let me know if you find the cure
and I'll let everyone know if the o2
sensor does the trick.
Good luck!
--
Hemipower
55 FLH
Bored n Stroked "Failure Is Only The Opportunity To More
DTSS Intelligently begin again" Henry Ford

[John]

I think there is an echo in this newsgroup. anyone that has a Dodge Ram 50 with a carb WHO DOESN'T have the problem described below, please acknowledge!

Short of Mitsubishi or Dodge recalling these problems, Has anyone had any success in fixing these problems? All Chrysler techs please stand up and be recognized.

You can get a rebuilt Mikuni carb through AUTOZONE for $320 (+ a $75 core fee). Through an 800 number they gave me, I have verified that it is the proper replacement for the Mitsubishi G54B engine (the 2.6L for most model years). It's the Mikuni Solex CRY-284. Here is their toll free number, open M-F, 8am-4:30pm CST. 1-800-634-2272.

(BTW, a new one costs like $1018 from the Mitsubishi dealer, and about $918 from the Dodge dealer....) And I think you'll find most rebuilt prices in the $600-700 range. Considering they are much too complicated to rebuild at home, there isn't any good options.

To be honest, I don't think it's the carb. I have my engine completely torn down and also removed the carb from the manifold. It's clean as a whistle, and all the mechanics of it seem to work fine. In fact the inside walls of it shine like new. One thing I have been told over and over again by mechanics is the valves must be kept within specs. I thought it was ridiculous when I read in the owners manual and the Haynes manual to get a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles. But after tearing the engine down and seeing the condition of the valves (at least a 1/2 inch of carbon on them), I now see why.

"Hemipower" <hemi...@aol.com> wrote in message news:20000820081123...@ng-bj1.aol.com...

[Don Munyak]

I think I found a solution.

Much Thanks to John Crawford.
Do a search at YAHOO for Mikuni solex (CRY-284) I went to one of the
sites which was for FCProducts and did a search on my truck which
pulled up a part number CRY-284. the Autozone sells this carb for
$309.50 + 75 core. I don't know if the carb is rebuilt or new after-
market.

Thanks and good luck

In article <20000820081123...@ng-bj1.aol.com>,

[John]

you can make the check out to me....

(and I'm a computer guy, hate working on cars!)

8-) Happy to help.....


"Don Munyak" <dmu...@p-a-link.com> wrote in message news:8nskon$ssi$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[Hemipower]

>I think I found a solution.
>
>Much Thanks to John Crawford.
>Do a search at YAHOO for Mikuni solex (CRY-284) I went to one of the
>sites which was for FCProducts and did a search on my truck which
>pulled up a part number CRY-284. the Autozone sells this carb for
>$309.50 + 75 core. I don't know if the carb is rebuilt or new after-
>market.
>
>Thanks and good luck
>

Was this carb a direct bolt on?
How well did the vacuum lines
match up?
Did you find any problems with cables? I have an automatic transmission
on the 89 vs. a stick that was on the 85