follow-up on '99 Ram pulling right
Scott
who replied. Basically, my problem was that the truck would
immediately drift right when holding the steering wheel perfectly
straight, and then it would start to swerve dramatically. After a
total of 7 dealer visits- 5 to Manuel in Richardson, TX and 2 to
Huffines in Plano, TX- I finally decided to file arbitration. My
hearing is going to be sometime in the next few weeks. Manuel was no
help at all- they insisted the problem was "normal". Huffines not only
immediately verified that there was a problem, but spent several days
trying to fix it. The end result was that they could not find what was
causing the problem after I got new tires, they rotated them every
which way, and they played with the alignment as much as possible.
Their "fix" was to 'lean in' the front right wheel to compensate for
the pulling. While this has stopped the initial drift, it hasn't fixed
the dramatic swerve once the drift starts (it can still start to drift
due to road crown, for one). In any case, since they could not
determine the actual cause of the problem, I have no guarantee it
isn't going to happen again, and I think this has some serious
ramifications in terms of re-sale value.
I just thought I would pass this on in case other people out there are
having this problem. For a while there, I had to keep telling myself
that the truck should NOT be pulling like that (through 5 dealer
visits to Manuel Dodge) before Huffines finally confirmed there was a
problem.
Feel free to email me if anyone has experienced this- I'd be curious
to know how many others there are. I know of 4 people locally with
Dodge's who have told me they've noticed the same thing.
- Scott
<!---- original post ---->
I thought I would run this by others here to see what the response is
(if any). I've got a '99 Ram 1500 which has been having what I thought
initially was an alignment problem. When holding the steering wheel
straight, the truck will dramtically begin to drift right such that
you're in the next lane within seconds. I've had it into the dealer
three times now after having brought it into another place which told
me the frame might be bent! The truck is about 2 years old and never
been in an accident, so I thought the guy didn't know what he was
talking about.
Now I find out from a friend who also has the same problem with their
'00 Ram 2500 that a frame tech told them when Dodge was building the
frames for some Rams the laser they use to make sure the frame is
straight was off ever so slightly. I have no idea as to the validity
of this, but I do know that every person I know w/a '99 or '00 Dodge
Ram has this drift problem.
I've called Chrysler and filed a complaint since the dealer can't or
won't fix the problem. Their lame reasoning to me is to say "the truck
wants to pull to the right". It's not the roads, either- this problem
happens on all sorts of roads.
Has anyone else out there been experiencing this? I had the rep I
spoke with on the phone look for other cases where people might have
filed a complaint about this w/Chrysler, but she couldn't find any
others. I seriously doubt it's just my truck, though. I'm 4 for 4 with
regard to people I know w/Rams who also have this problem.
Thanks in advance!
- Scott
mac davis
good luck on the arbitration, scott.... go get 'em....
i'd be scared to drive something that they "leaned" a front wheel to
compensate....
kinda like putting a tourniquit on your right ankle to fix you left
knee problem.....
i also liked your use of the word "ramification", but i like it better
as RAMification...*g*
let us know how it comes out, scott!
Mac
(yeah, the guy who builds trebuchets)
Scott
has some serious safety issues as well. My wife was the one who
actually started to refuse to drive the vehicle with it pulling so
much cause she said she almost swerved into another lane at one point.
While having the truck to myself has some obvious advantages ( :-) ),
if the boss doesn't feel safe in the truck, it was time to do
something a little more extreme (like take it to another dealer, file
arbitration, etc.). Hopefully I'll be fairly compensated for all of my
time and money and frustration in having to deal with this. and I will
never set foot into Manuel Dodge ever again!
macd...@nospam.mediaone.net (mac davis) wrote in message news:<3c7c29e7....@nntp.we.mediaone.net>...
Scott
11 MPG to 9.3 (and still dropping as far as I can tell) ever since
they "leaned in" the front right wheel. go figure. I'll be bringing my
truck in once again, this time to figure out why the fuel consumption
has dropped so much.
macd...@nospam.mediaone.net (mac davis) wrote in message news:<3c7c29e7....@nntp.we.mediaone.net>...
wm
I have a 95 1500 and a 99 Quad Cab Cummins. I had the same problem on the 95
(which has 200,254 miles on it now) when it was new. I took it to the dealer
twice and they kept aligning it up to spec and it still did it. The tires
were also checked and that wasn't the problem. After it got out of warranty
it kept getting worse and around 60,000 miles I was changing oils and
greasing the front end I started looking at the pitman arm and the rubber
boot looked strange on it. I peeled it back and the ball was about to come
out of the arm. It seem that the bushing had not been installed when the arm
was assembled. I got a new pitman arm and an idler and installed them. While
installing the pitman arm I noticed that the shaft coming out of the
steering gear box had about an 1/8 inch of movement in it and decided to
change it out. I found one in a salvage with 16,000 miles on it and
installed everything then took it down to a independent shop that could do a
4 wheel alignment. They said that the front end was way out of "their"
specs. I couldn't believe how good it drove after that. I rebuilt the front
end with Moog parts at 129,000 and you can let the steering wheel driving
down the road and it goes straight.
Are they sure the brakes are not pulling the truck, the 99 I have will apply
the left brake while you going down the highway and almost pull the steering
out of your hands without applying the brakes. It finally burnt the carbon
fiber pads off that side, the first time it did it was the right side.
Good luck, I'm going through the same thing with DC with the 99. It was in
the dealer twice for the brakes pulsating and steering locking up while it
was in warranty. DC told them not to fix it if the dealer can't repeat the
problem. Since this happens randomly the dealer can't get it to happen (
they put almost 500 miles on it and it didn't happen to them, I put another
750 miles on it before it happen again).
And don't even ask what the area reps. have to say for DC.
Will
"Scott" <stumpj...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:58c3195d.02022...@posting.google.com...
mac davis
>I should also mention that my fuel consumption has dropped from around
>11 MPG to 9.3 (and still dropping as far as I can tell) ever since
>they "leaned in" the front right wheel. go figure. I'll be bringing my
>truck in once again, this time to figure out why the fuel consumption
>has dropped so much.
>
makes sense to me, scott.... you have on wheel that's trying to go
straight and one trying to go sideways...
i always know when i've waited to long to have a front end aligned
when it steers better and gets better mileage when they're done.. *g*
DodgeMan...@hadesgate.com
davis) wrote:
>On 27 Feb 2002 09:55:03 -0800, stumpj...@yahoo.com (Scott) wrote:
>
>>I should also mention that my fuel consumption has dropped from around
>>11 MPG to 9.3 (and still dropping as far as I can tell) ever since
>>they "leaned in" the front right wheel. go figure. I'll be bringing my
>>truck in once again, this time to figure out why the fuel consumption
>>has dropped so much.
>>
>makes sense to me, scott.... you have on wheel that's trying to go
>straight and one trying to go sideways...
>
Slide your hand across the tread of both tires .. side to side. I
betcha you'll feel more "slide resistance" in one direction than you
do in the other. It'll feel like the tread is wearing off at an angle.
If that is true then you definitely have one sliding.
Gary
Bruce M
coupling. All because the coupling is aluminum and the splines were worn
out. Thanks to the clamp bolt design with groove, the shaft stayed on the
gearbox!! Turning the steering wheel without the engine running doesn't help
either. You'd think that DC would change to cast iron or steel! 145,000 1995
Ram!
Still fighting the drift to the right. Been told to try swapping the front
brake assemblies.
Bruce
"wm" <wima...@swbell.net> wrote in message
news:Qeaf8.7861$sv5.97...@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
wm
"Bruce M" <bru...@flash.net> wrote in message
news:vjEf8.18691$Pu1.2706146410@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com...
> I've also had to replace the steering shaft due to the slop at the gearbox
> coupling. All because the coupling is aluminum and the splines were worn
> out. Thanks to the clamp bolt design with groove, the shaft stayed on the
> gearbox!! Turning the steering wheel without the engine running doesn't
help
> either. You'd think that DC would change to cast iron or steel! 145,000
1995
> Ram!
Aluminum is lighter and more fuel efficient they say.
>
> Still fighting the drift to the right. Been told to try swapping the front
> brake assemblies
Buy aftermarket premium caliper for the front. I couldn't get the ones on
the truck from sticking and pulling. I had them on the truck since I
replaced the first pads (145,000 miles) haven't had any trouble from the
brakes from that truck since.
Will
Stamey
http://www.turbodieseltrucks.com/brakepull.html
Chris
"Scott" <stumpj...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:58c3195d.02022...@posting.google.com...
Mike
same thing....
This really sucks....
kenneth brennan
there is nothing rong with it.
I am going to take it to a brake and front end specialist for a secound
opinion
Ken
"Mike" <n.tr...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:4KWh8.11770$tL....@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
mac davis
hmm... interesting that the dealer thinks that as a safety feature or
something, that all rams pull to the right when braking??
maybe to get you to the shoulder faster or something??
i'd tell the dealer to show me the specs for this "option"....
Kenneth Frei
"mac davis" <macd...@nospam.attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3c88fbcd...@netnews.attbi.com...
mac davis
<kf...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>Try this TSB http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1997/05-03-97/page1.html
>
i went to the url, and it talks about a nut and a wrench, but doesn't
say WHAT the problem is...
any idea??
(none of the links on the bottom of the page worked)
Kenneth Frei
> On Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:03:59 -0500, "Kenneth Frei"
> <kf...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> >Try this TSB http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1997/05-03-97/page1.html
> >
> i went to the url, and it talks about a nut and a wrench, but doesn't
> say WHAT the problem is...
>
OK, Here is page 1 of 27 (links on the bottom of the page)
Technical
Service
Bulletin SUBJECT:
Chassis Dynamics Diagnosis NO:
GROUP:
EFFECTIVE DATE:
05-03-97
Brakes
Mar. 17, 1997
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 05-10-96, DATED DEC.
13,1996, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE 1996
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL (PUBLICATION NO. 81-699- 97010). REVISIONS
HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, THE PROCEDURE, AND LABOR
OPERATION NUMBERS. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**.
MODELS:
1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Chassis Dynamics Diagnosis is the diagnosis of a condition where the vehicle
may move either to the right or the left when not controlled by the driver.
This condition can be caused by any of the following:
Non-Factory Installed Options (e.g. Snow plow)
Tires or Wheels of Different Size
Aftermarket Wheels
Tires That Have a Belt That Has Shifted
Incorrect Tire Pressure
A Vehicle That is Carrying Extra Added Weight (e.g. tool boxes)
Steering and/or Suspension Components That Are Worn or Damaged
Wheel Bearings That Are Worn or Damaged
A Vehicle That Is Not Within Alignment Specifications
Brake Drag From Brake Components That Do Not Release
Braking Imbalance
NOTE:
UNDER CERTAIN ROAD CONDITIONS (E.G. HIGH ROAD CROWN, GROOVED ROADS, ETC.),
MOST VEHICLES WILL MOVE TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT UNCONTROLLED BY THE DRIVER.
ALSO, THE SAME MAY HAPPEN IF A CROSS WIND CONDITION EXISTS.
Kenneth Frei
DIAGNOSIS:
ROAD TESTING THE VEHICLE
1. Road Test the vehicle for the condition described by the customer.
The initial test should be performed on a smooth highway, free of road
crown, ruts, speed bumps, or pot holes.
* Drive the vehicle at highway speeds, preferably without cross wind
conditions.
* If cross wind conditions are prevalent, drive the vehicle in both
directions to the cross wind.
* Decel the vehicle from highway speeds without applying the brakes.
Record any drift condition noticed.
* Identify whether the vehicle drifts while holding the steering wheel or
does it drift only after the steering wheel is allowed to move freely.
2. Next, perform several brake applications from speeds greater than 50
mph to a complete stop. This portion of the road test should be performed on
several different types of road surfaces.
* First series of brake applications should be a normal type of brake
application (similar to the way you would come to a stop at a stop sign).
* Second series of brake applications should be a hard braking
application but, try not to activate the Antilock Brake System (ABS).
Record what happens to the vehicle during each series of brake applications.
* Does the vehicle drift to one side?
* If it does, does the steering wheel move during the drift?
* Did a wheel lock-up during a normal brake apply?
Then, if conditions permit, perform one stop allowing ABS to activate.
Record any individual wheels that may have locked-up.
Normal ABS operation will allow a wheel to intermittently lock-up. This
intermittent lock-up is a controlled lock-up. If a wheel fully locks-up and
does not release, then the ASS did not control the lock-up.
* Did the drift condition differ during the one ABS stop?
NOTE:
IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH REAR WHEEL ANTILOCK (RWAL) ONLY, THE ABS
CONTROLS THE REAR WHEELS ONLY.
Kenneth Frei
Continue driving the vehicle for five to ten minutes with limited braking if
possible (allowing brakes to cool).
Repeat Step 2, brake drift evaluation.
Return to dealership, making several "snubs" along the way. These snubs are
moderate brake applies from 50 mph to 30 mph, or 40 mph to 20 mph. The
object is to retain the heat generated from braking in the brakes so brake
drag measurements can be taken during the following brake evaluation.
3. If the vehicle did drift, perform the Brake System Evaluation test.
BRAKE SYSTEM EVALUATION
NOTE: IT IS IMPORTANT TO PERFORM THE BRAKE DRAG TORQUE MEASUREMENT ON THE
VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING THE ROAD TEST (BRAKES MUST BE HOT).
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING THE WHEELS AND BRAKE
COMPONENTS WHEN PERFORMING BRAKE DRAG TORQUE MEASUREMENTS. THESE COMPONENTS
WILL BE VERY HOT.
**NOTE: THE LAST BRAKE APPLY BEFORE PERFORMING THE BRAKE DRAG TORQUE TEST
(STEP 3) SHOULD BE MADE WITH THE LEAST PEDAL TRAVEL POSSIBLE SO THAT BRAKE
PRESSURE IS AT A MINIMUM.**
1. On 4X4 vehicles that DO NOT have a functioning axle disconnect, shift
the transfer case into neutral.
2. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate lift.
3. Measure the Drag Torque of each front hublrotor assembly. The
measurement should be taken with either a dial or beam type foot pound
torque wrench and the rotation must be in a forward direction (Right Side =
clockwise - Left Side = counter clockwise).
a. For all 4X2 vehicles and 4X4 vehicles equipped with the Dana 44 front
axle (all 1500 series 4X4 and 7500 lb. GVW 2500 series 4X4), the measurement
will be taken with a torque wrench attached to a lug nut. The torque wrench
must be perpendicular to the spindle.
Kenneth Frei
b. For 4X4 vehicles equipped with the Dana 60 front axle (8800 lb. GVW
2500 series 4X4 and all 3500 series 4X4), remove the cotter pin that secures
the hub nut to the axle shaft. The measurement will be taken at the hub nut
with a torque wrench. The hub nut on a Dana 60 front axle is a I 1 111 6
inch hex head nut.
4. Rotate the hub/rotor assembly in a forward direction. The initial
torque required to get the hub to rotate is called 'break away torque." The
break away torque will be higher and should be disregarded. **Measure and
record the rotational torque of the left front wheel. Then, measure and
record the rotational torque of the right front wheel. The difference
between the left and right side rotational torque should be less then 20 Nm
(15 ft. lbs.) of torque.** If the measured torque exceeds the maximum
specification, remove the front wheels and proceed to the next step. If the
measured torque is within specifications, remove the front wheels and
proceed to Step 6.
5. **Remove the caliper assembly from the side of the vehicle that has
the higher drag torque and rotate the hub, bearing, and rotor assembly in a
forward direction.**
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING THE WHEELS AND BRAKE
COMPONENTS. THESE COMPONENTS WILL BE VERY HOT.
The break away torque will be higher and should be disregarded. The
rotational torque should be less then 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) of torque. **If
rotational torque exceeds the specification (with calipers removed), the
bearing/hub or differential should be repaired or replaced.** If the
rotational torque is now less then the specification, replace caliper
assembly. Refer to the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No.
81-370-7108), Groups 2, 3, and/or 5 for proper caliper, bearing/hub and/or
differential service.
6. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the caliper slide
surface and the knuckle mounting arm (both top and bottom) (Figure 1). Take
separate measurement at inner and outer portions of both top and bottom
slides.
Kenneth Frei
**The total for inner and outer clearances should add to 0.01 0 in. to 0.026
in. (e.g. top left inner + bottom left inner = 0.01 0 in. to 0.026 in., top
left outer + bottom left outer = 0.01 0 in. to 0.026 in., etc.). If the
total clearance is within specifications, but an individual measurement is
low, the knuckle rail can be liahtly filed to increase the clearance. If the
total clearance is out of specifications, replace the caliper and/or knuckle
assembly.
NOTE: IT IS POSSIBLE TO HAVE NO CLEARANCE ON ONE END (EITHER THE TOP OR
BOTTOM) OF THE CALIPER AS LONG AS THE TOTAL CLEARANCE ADDS TO 0.010 IN. TO
0.026 IN. FOR THE INNER READING AND 0.010 IN. TO 0.026 IN. FOR THE OUTER
READING. THIS CAN HAPPEN AS A RESULT OF RAM TRUCKS USING A FLOATING CALIPER
AND WHAT OCCURRED TO THE BRAKES JUST PRIOR TO CHECKING THE CLEARANCES.**
7. Record the caliper to slide clearance
LEFT SIDE CALIPER RIGHT SIDE CALIPER
OUTBOARD TOP INBOARD OUTBOARD TOP INBOARD
OUTBOARD BOTTOM INBOARD OUTBOARD BOTTOM INBOARD
TOTAL TOTAL
8. Install new cotter pin into axle shaft.
9. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Perform an inspection of the
rear brakes. Verify that there is no differential grease leaking from the
rear axle seal or brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder onto the brake
shoes and linings. Repair any rear brake components or rear axle seal(s) as
necessary and adjust rear brakes. Refer to the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual
(Publication No. 81-370- 71 08), Groups 3 and/or 5 for proper brake and/or
differential service.
10. Verify that the proper size wheel cylinders and calipers are on the
vehicle. Wheel cylinder diameter is cast in the outside surface of the wheel
cylinder barrel (a cast 4 - 23.8mm and cast 7= 27mm). Caliper sizes can be
identified by measuring the length of the lower caliper slide rail. 86mm
caliper slide rail measures 4.75 inches, 80mm measures 4 inches. Using a
tape measure, measure the length of the lower slide rail.
Kenneth Frei
11. Inspect the combination valve in front of the booster housing to
verify that the correct valve has been installed on the vehicle. All Dodge
Ram trucks are equipped with a metering valve and a differential pressure
switch located internal to the combination valve. Only some trucks have a
proportioning valve. If the truck has a proportioning valve, it will have a
hex visible with a rubber plug over it on the rear side of the combination
valve. Refer to the following chart for identifying correct brake
components.
STANDARD BRAKE COMPONENTS
MODEL CALIPER SIZE WHEEL
CYLINDER
BORE SIZE DRUM BRAKE
SIZE PROPORTIONING
VALVE
1500 75mm 23.8mm 11"x2" Yes
2500
7500 GVVV
8800GVVV
(4X2 Only) 80mm 23.8mm
Dana 70/80
Can Receive
27mm per TSB 13"x2.5" No
2500
8800 GVW
(4x4 Only) 86mm 23.8mm
Dana 70/80
Can Receive
27mm per TSB 13"x2.5" (1995 and newer YES)
3500 86mm 27mm 13"x3.5" No
12. Reassemble the rear brakes and install all four tire/wheel assemblies.
STEERING AND SUSPENSION INSPECTION.
1. Remove any component on the vehicle that may cause a change in curb
height (e.g. snow plow), if possible.
2. Inspect the condition, and size of all tires. Replace any tire(s) that
is/are worn, damaged, or of the incorrect size. Also, verify that all four
tires are of the same brand.
3. Inflate all tires to the pressure specified in the Tire Inflation
Pressure sheet (located in the glove box).
4. Inspect all wheels to verify that the wheels are of the correct size,
offset, and are not bent/damaged. Replace any bent/damaged wheel or wheel(s)
that islare not of the correct size or do not have the correct offset.
Kenneth Frei
NOTE: IF VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY EQUIPPED WITH AFTERMARKET TIRE AND WHEEL
ASSEMBLIES, INSTALL FACTORY APPROVED TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLIES BEFORE
PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS.
5. Record the vehicle's curb height. Measurement locations can be found
using the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81-370-7108),
page 2-6.
Left Front Right Front Left Rear Right Rear
NOTE: THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT LIST SPECIFICATIONS FOR CURB HEIGHT. IF
A DIFFERENCE OF ONE INCH FROM THE LEFT CURB HEIGHT TO THE RIGHT CURB HEIGHT
IS IDENTIFIED, INSPECT RELATED SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND REPLACE ANY DAMAGED
COMPONENT AS NECESSARY. REFER TO THE 1997 RAM TRUCK SERVICE MANUAL
(PUBLICATION NO. 81-370-7108), GROUP 2 FOR INFORMATION REGARDING SUSPENSION
COMPONENT SERVICE.
6. Inspect the following steering and suspension components for wear and
damage. Replace any component that is bent or out of tolerance. Use the 1997
Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81 -370-71 08), Groups 2 and 19
for inspection and service procedures.
Frame - Tie Rod
Drag Link
Pitman Arm
Idler Arm
Left Front Upper Suspension Arm Bushings
Left Front Lower Suspension Arm Bushings
Right Front Upper Suspension Arm Bushings
Right Front Lower Suspension Arm Bushings
Stabilizer Bar and Bushings
Right Front Shock Absorber
Left Front Shock Absorber
Right Rear Shock Absorber
Left Rear Shock Absorber
Left Front Upper Ball Joint
Left Front Lower Ball Joint
Right Front Upper Ball Joint
Right Front Lower Ball Joint
Kenneth Frei
7. . Use the following procedure to inspect the track bar ball joint for
excessive wear:
a. Position the wheels straight ahead then, turn the steering wheel 900 to
the left.
b. Attach a dial indicator to the frame near the track bar ball joint.
Position the tip of the dial indicator on the end cap of the ball joint next
to the grease fitting (Figure 2) and lightly preload the dial indicator.
NOTE: THE DIAL INDICATOR TIP SHOULD BE PERPENDICULAR TO THE BALL JOINT
END CAP
c. Rotate the face of the dial indicator so that the indicator needle is
positioned at the zero mark.
d. Rotate the steering wheel approximately 1800 to the right. Read the
amount of end play on the dial indicator and record the reading.
e. Rotate the steering wheel back 180' to the left and repeat the
procedure three times to identify the highest reading.
f. Replace the track bar if the ball joint end play exceeds 2.03 mm
(0.080 in.) in any one of the end play diagnostic checks.
8. Torque the following steering and suspension components to the
manufacture recommended torque values listed.
Kenneth Frei
NOTE: IT IS EXTREMELY CRITICAL THAT ALL FASTENERS BE CHECKED WITH A
CALIBRATED TORQUE WRENCH. TO PROPERLY CHECK THE TORQUE, THE FASTENER SHOULD
BE LOOSENED, THEN TORQUED TO THE APPROPRIATE VALUE.
4X2 Lower Suspension Arm Fasteners (Wax Coat Frames*) .......... 149 Nm (110
ft. lbs.)
4X2 Upper **Pivot Bar Nuts** (Wax Coat Frames*) .................... 203 Nm
(150 ft. lbs.)
4X2 Lower Suspension Arm Fasteners (E-Coat Frames*)............ **197 Nm 145
ft. lbs.)
**4X2 Upper Pivot Bar Nuts (E-Coat Frames*) ........................ 203 Nm
(150 ft. lbs.)**
4X4 Upper Suspension Arm(Frame End - Wax Coat Frame*) ............ 84 Nm (62
ft. lbs.)
4X4 Upper Suspension Arm(Frame End - E-Coat Frame*) ...... **108 Nm (80 ft.
lbs.)**
4X4 Upper Suspension Arm(Axle End)
............................................. 121 Nm (89 ft. lbs.)
4X4 Lower Suspension Arm(Frame End - Wax Coat Frame*) .......... 122 Nm (90
ft. lbs.)
4X4 Lower Suspension Arm(Frame End - E-Coat Frame*) .... **170 Nm (I 25 ft.
lbs.)**
4X4 Lower Suspension Arm(Axle End) ................................... **129
Nm (95 ft. lbs.)**
Stabilizer Bar Clamp Bolt (Wax Coat Frame*)
.................................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer Bar Clamp Bolt (E-Coat Frame*) ...............................
**54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.)**
4X2 Stabilizer Bar Link Nut
................................................................ 34 Nm (25
ft. lbs.)
4X4 Stabilizer Bar Upper Link Nut
.................................................... 37 Nm (27 ft. lbs.)
4X4 Stabilizer Bar Lower Link Nut (Castle Nut)
................................ 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
4X4 Stabilizer Bar Lower Link Nut (Prevailing (Looking) Nut) ......... 118
Nm (87 ft. lbs.)
Track Bar Ball Stud Nut
............................................................ **95 Nm (70 ft.
lbs.)**
Track Bar Axle Bracket Bolt
......................................................... 176 Nm (130 ft.
lbs.)
Steering Gear
............................................................................
.... 190 Nm (140 ft. lbs.)
Rear Axle Spring Clamp Nuts (6,010 - 10,500 GVW) ................... 149 Nm
(110ft. lbs.)
Rear Axle Spring Clamp Nuts (11,000 GVW) ............................... 163
Nm (120 ft. lbs.)
*1996 trucks built in St Louis (J - 11th Position of VIN) and all 1997
trucks (except for trucks built at Saltillo and Lago Alberto, Mexico
(Saitillo = G and Lago Alberto = M - 11th Position of VIN) prior to Oct. 1,
1996 (MDH 1001XX)), are built with E-Coat Frames and have unique torque
specifications for some fasteners.
**NOTE: ALL COMPONENTS WITH BUSHINGS (E.G. UPPER/LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS)
SHOULD BE TORQUED AT CURB HEIGHT.**
SUSPENSION GEOMETRY EVALUATION
Perform an alignment on the vehicle. If necessary, refer to the manufacture
of your dealerships equipment for proper operation of your alignment
equipment. For information regarding alignment procedures and
specifications, refer to the 1997 Dodge Ram Service Manual (Publication
Number 81 -37-71 08), pages 2-1 through 2-7. Please document all alignment
angles before changing any angle, after adjustments have been made, and
after performing a road test.
Kenneth Frei
NOTE: ANY NON-FACTORY INSTALLED EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE REMOVED IF AT ALL
POSSIBLE (E.G. SNOW PLOW, TOOL BOXES THAT CAN BE EASILY REMOVED, ETC.),
COSMETIC ACCESSORIES CAN REMAIN ON VEHICLE (E.G. BUG DEFLECTORS, RUNNING
BOARDS, ETC.). AFTERMARKET WHEEL AND TIRE ASSEMBLIES, LIFT KITS, AND OTHER
NON-AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION ALTERING COMPONENTS MUST BE REMOVED. FACTORY
AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, WHEELS, AND TIRES SHOULD BE INSTALLED
PRIOR TO PREFORMING ANY ALIGNMENT CHECKS.
ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Front Angle Rear Angle Other Angles
Camber 4x2=0.50 +/- 0.50deg
4x4=0.25 +/- 0.50deg Camber No Spec.
Available Cross
Camber 0, max 0.5 deg
Caster
(See Service Manual) Cross
Caster 0, max 0.5 deg
Total Toe 0.1 deg Toe In
+/- 0.1 deg Toe No Spec.
Available Thrust Angle 0, +/- 0.2 deg
VEHICLE READINGS - PRE ALIGNMENT
Front Angle Rear Angle Other Angles
Camber LT=
RT= Camber LT=
RT= Cross
Camber
Caster LT=
RT= Cross
Caster
Toe Toe SAI
*Always try to achieve the preferred setting when adjusting alignment angles
Included Angle
Setback
Thrust Angle
1. If the alignment angles are within specifications, continue to step 7,
if not, continue to step 2.
Kenneth Frei
2. CORRECTING THRUST ANGLE
a. If thrust angle is incorrect, raise the vehicle on an appropriate
frame support style lift (rear axle must be allowed to extend fully).
b. Support the axle to remove all weight from springs and yet not support
any weight of the vehicle.
c. Inspect the part number of both leaf springs. If both springs have the
same part number, proceed to the next step. If the part numbers are
different from side to side, then incorrect thrust angle could be caused by
having springs of different lengths. Verify that the springs are of the same
length by measuring the springs from the front spring eye to the rear spring
eye (service part numbers may have different part numbers then production
part numbers). If springs are of different lengths, install the correct
springs and recheck thrust angle. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual
for information regarding rear spring service.
d. Loosen the nuts from the spring clamp bolts that attach the spring to
the axle (Figure 3).
e. Using a prybar, reposition the rear axle to obtain a 0.0 deg +/- 0.2
deg of thrust angle.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE LEAF SPRING CENTERBOLT IS BEING LOCATED IN THE
ALIGNMENT HOLE IN THE SPRING SPACER SEAT, NOT IN THE VOID OF THE SPRING
SEAT.
f. Tighten the spring clamp nuts until they force the plate flush against
the axle tube.
g. Remove axle supports and lower the vehicle so that the weight of the
vehicle is supported by the tires.
Kenneth Frei
h. Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts to 163 Nm (120 ft. lbs) of
torque.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE SPRING CLAMP RETAINING NUTS. EXCEEDING 163
Nm (120 FT. LBS) OF TORQUE WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
i. Verify rear thrust angle. Repeat steps a through within
specifications.
3. CORRECTING FOR REAR CAMBER OR TOE
a. If rear toe and/or camber are out of specifications, but thrust angle
is within specifications, replace the rear axle assembly. Refer to the
appropriate Service Manual for information regarding rear differential
service.
4. CORRECTING FOR FRONT CASTER/CAMBER
a. If the vehicle is a 4X2 and front caster or camber require adjustment,
move the pivot bar located on the top of the upper suspension arm (Figure
4). Refer to the 1997 Dodge Ram Service Manual (Publication Number
81-37-7108), pages 2-1 through 2-7 for proper alignment procedures.
b. If the vehicle is equipped with a Dana 44 front axle (all 1500 series
4X4 and 7500 lb GVW 2500 series 4X4), caster and toe are the only front
alignment angles that can be altered. Refer to the 1997 Dodge Ram Service
Manual (Publication Number 81-37-71 08), pages 2-1 through 2-7 for proper
alignment procedures
Kenneth Frei
i. To adjust caster, loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on
the front section of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE: BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
ii. Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster
finds its neutral, or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left
lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii. Adjust both cams evenly until the correct caster angle has been
achieved. Refer to the 1997 Dodge Ram Service Manual, Publication Number
81 -37-7108, pages 2-1 through 2-7 for proper alignment procedures.
iv. The vehicle weight must be supported by the tires before the cam
bolts are tightened. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to** 129 Nm (95 ft.
lbs.)** of torque.
c. If the vehicle is equipped with a Dana 60 front axle (8800 lb GVW 2500
series 4X4 and 3500 series 4X4) or has a solid front axle (3500 4X2 Cab
Chassis), and camber requires no adjustment, and cross caster is within
specifications, perform steps i through iv. If the vehicle requires camber
adjustment or cross caster/cross camber is out of specification, proceed to
the next step (step i).
i. Loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on the front section
of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE: BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
Kenneth Frei
ii. Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster
finds its neutral, or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left
lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii. Tighten the nuts to the cam bolt only tight enough so that the cam
bolts do not move.
iv. Lower the vehicle so that the weight of the vehicle is supported by
the tires. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to **l29 Nm (95 ft. lbs.)** of
torque.
v. Now, front camber and/or cross caster/cross camber can be altered by
installing offset upper ball joint sleeves. The following sleeves are
available from Mopar.
04886060AA 0.25deg Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886061AA 0.50deg Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886062AA 0.75deg Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886063AA 1.00deg Offset Ball joint Sleeve
The sleeve can be rotated a total eight different positions to be able to
increase or decrease caster and/or camber.
NOTE: THE OFFSET SALL JOINT SLEEVES SHOULD ONLY BE USED TO CORRECT FOR A
CAMBER OR CROSS CASTER ADJUSTMENT. ONCE CAMBER AND CROSS CASTER ARE CORRECT,
CONTINUE BY USING THE LOWER SUSPENSION ARM CAM ADJUSTERS TO ACHIEVE THE
PREFERRED CASTER SETTINGS.
vi. Before the sleeve can be installed, an alignment check must be
performed with the caster cam adjusters in the equally loaded position.
Record your readings.
Left Caster__________Right Caster__________
Left Camber__________Right Camber__________
vii. To remove the original upper ball joint sleeve, raise the vehicle on
an appropriate lift that will allow the suspension to be unloaded.
viii. Remove the tire/wheel assembly.
Kenneth Frei
ix. Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin.
x. Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xi. Use a hammer and chisel to drive the original ball joint sleeve from
the axle tube yoke.
CAUTION: TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE AXLE TUBE YOKE OR BALL JOINT, PLACE THE
CHISEL ON THE UPPER LIP OF THE SLEEVE ONLY DURING REMOVAL.
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE PROTECTION WHEN PERFORMING THE BALL
JOINT SLEEVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE.
xii. Choose the appropriate offset upper ball joint sleeve based upon the
camber and caster values recorded in step vi.
xiii. After positioning the sleeve into the axle tube yoke, install the
ball joint nut and tighten the upper ball joint nut to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.)
of torque. Then, advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole
in the ball joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xiv. Verify that the ball joint does not bind during a turn. Remove the
steering linkage from the steering knuckle arms. Using a spring scale at the
steering knuckle arm tie rod attachment hole, check the amount of force
required to turn the steering knuckle. Ball joints are considered binding if
the force required to turn the steering knuckle exceeds 36 pounds. If the
force is below 36 pounds, proceed to step xxviii. If ball joint binding is
noticed, the upper and lower ball joints will have to be aligned properly.
Remove the caliper assembly and the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) (if
equipped).
xv. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
xvi. Remove the axle shaft.
CAUTION: CAREFULLY REMOVE THE AXLE SHAFT. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT SEAL
COULD RESULT IF THE SPLINES ARE ALLOWED TO TOUCH THE SEAL.
xvii. Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xviii. Remove the lower ball joint nut.
Kenneth Frei
xix. Remove the knuckle assembly from the axle yoke and move the ball
joint stud to ensure that the ball joint is free in the socket. If the ball
is not free, work the stud around in the socket to lubricate and free the
ball.
xx. Install the knuckle assembly into the axle yoke.
xxi. Lubricate the threads with a penetrating oil such as Mopar General
Purpose Lube, p/n 4544926, and install the lower ball joint nut finger
tight.
xxii. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 47.5 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) of
torque.
xxiii. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.) of torque,
then advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole in the ball
joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xxiv. Re-tighten the lower ball joint nut to 190-215 Nm (140-160 ft.
lbs.) of torque.
xxv. Install the axle shaft and verify that the lubricant in the front
differential is at the proper level.
xxvi. Install the hub and rotor assembly. Tighten the bolts to 170 Nm
(125 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxvii. Install the brake caliper and the WSS.
xxviii. Connect the steering linkage at the steering knuckle arms.
Tighten the tie rod nut to 88 Nm (65 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxix. Install the tire/wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to the
sequence and torque specified in the 1997 Dodge Ram Service Manual
(Publication Number 81 -37-7108), pages 22-8 through 22-11.
xxx. Verify that camber and caster is now within specifications, if not
within specification, repeat steps vi through xxx until camber and caster
are within specifications.
5. CORRECTING FOR TOE
a. To set toe, use the procedures outlined in the 1997 Dodge Ram Service
Manual (Publication Number 81-37-7108), pages 2-4 and 2-5.
Kenneth Frei
CAUTION: ON 4X4 VEHICLES, IT IS CRITICAL TO POSITION TIE ROD ADJUSTING
SLEEVE SO THAT THE TIE ROD CLAMP DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE STEERING
DAMPENER DURING JOUNCE AND REBOUND. POSITION THE CLAMP BOLTS IN LINE WITH
THE CLAMP LOCKING ARM.
6. Record the alignment angles after all adjustments have been corrected.
VEHICLE READINGS - AFTER CORRECTING ALIGNMENT ANGLES
Front Angle Rear Angle Other Angles
Camber LT=
RT= Camber LT=
RT= Cross
Camber
Caster LT=
RT= Cross
Caster
Toe Toe SAI
*Always try to achieve the preferred setting when adjusting alignment angles
Included Angle
Setback
Thrust Angle
7. Road Test the vehicle to verify that the drift condition has been
resolved.
The initial test should be performed on a smooth level highway, free of road
crown, ruts, speed bumps, or pot holes.
Drive the vehicle at highway speeds, preferably without cross wind
conditions.
If cross wind conditions are prevalent, drive the vehicle in both directions
to the cross wind.
Record any drift condition noticed.
Identify whether the vehicle drifts while holding the steering wheel or does
it drift only after the steering wheel is allowed to move freely.
8. If the vehicle drifts with the steering wheel remaining stationary,
re-perform the Alignment Evaluation, record your readings, and proceed to
the next step. If the vehicle did not drift, proceed to step 11.
Kenneth Frei
VEHICLE READINGS - AFTER SECOND ROAD TEST
Front Angle Rear Angle Other Angles
Camber LT=
RT= Camber LT=
RT= Cross
Camber
Caster LT=
RT= Cross
Caster
Toe Toe SAI
*Always try to achieve the preferred setting when adjusting alignment angles
Included Angle
Setback
Thrust Angle
9. If the alignment angles were changed (after performing road test) from
the previously recorded readings (after correcting alignment angles),
reinspect suspension and steering components for wear or damage. Also,
verify that all suspension and steering components are secured and their
fasteners are torqued properly.
10. If alignment values have not changed, verify that the tires are not
causing the drift condition. This can be accomplished by cross switching the
front tires and performing the road test again. If the drift changes
direction, rotate the tires front to rear then, continue to step 11.
11. (Road Test Evaluation cont.) Next, perform several brake applications
from speeds greater then 50 mph to a complete stop. This portion of the road
test should be per-formed on several different types of road surfaces.
First series of brake applications should be a normal type of brake
application (similar to the way you would come to a stop at a stop sign).
Second series of brake applications should be a hard braking application
but, try not to activate ABS.
12. If the vehicle did drift but the steering DID NOT remain stationary,
re-perform the Brake Evaluation. If the vehicle did drift with the steering
wheel remaining stationary, and the vehicle is a 4X4, perform the following
Repair Procedure. If the drift condition has been resolved, return the
vehicle to the customer.
Kenneth Frei
PARTS REQUIRED:
RAM 1500 SERIES WHEEL SHIMS
AR 1 04863753 Wheel Shim, (2.0 mm)
AR 1 04863756 Wheel Shim, (3.5 mm)
AR 1 04863757 Wheel Shim, (5.0 mm)
AR 1 04864546 Wheel Shim & Stud Kit
5 04864186 Wheel Studs, (1/2 - 20 UNC Threads)
1 04863758 Wheel Shim, (6.5 mm)
5 06034958 Wheel Nuts, (1/2- 20 UNC Threads)
RAM 2500/3500 SERIES WHEEL SHIMS
AR 1 04863759 Wheel Shim, (2.0 mm)
AR 1 04863760 Wheel Shim, (3.5 mm)
AR 1 04863761 Wheel Shim, (5.0 mm)
AR 1 04864549 Wheel Shim Kit
1 04863762 Wheel Shim, (6.5 mm)
8 04864185 Wheel Studs, (9116 - 18 UNC threads) (3850 lb front
axles)
8 04864187 Wheel Studs, (9116 - 18 UNC threads)
(4850 lb front axles with single rear wheels)
8 04864188 Wheel Studs, (9116 - IS UNC threads)
(4850 lb front axles with dual rear wheels)
RAM 2500 (8800GVW)/3500 SERIES
AR 2 04886166AA Upper Suspension Arm
AR 2 04886170AA Lower Suspension Arm
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves installing a shim between the wheel and the brake
rotor on 1500 series vehicles, between the wheel and hub/bearing assembly on
2500 series vehicles, or between the wheel and hub extension on 3500 series
vehicles as required **and if necessary, install heavy duty upper and lower
suspension arms.**
1 . Remove the RIGHT front wheel if the vehicle drifts left or the LEFT
front wheel if the vehicle drifts right. If the vehicle changes directions
with each stop, remove the right wheel.
Kenneth Frei
1500 SERIES SHIMMING PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the retainers holding the rotor in place on the wheel studs.
With wheel and retainers removed, install 3.5 mm shim (p/ln 04863756). Make
sure that the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
2. Install the wheel making sure that it is centered on the studs and
partially tighten all of the lug nuts following the pattern given in the
1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81-370-7108) page 22-10.
3. Finish torquing the lug nuts to 108 - 150 Nm (80-110 ft. lbs.) .
4. Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7 through 11 in the
diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation. If the condition is
corrected, the repair is complete. If the vehicle drifts to the opposite
direction as originally found then repeat steps 1 through 3 on that side,
using a 2.0 mm shim (p/n 04863753).
NOTE: AFTER THE REPAIR IS COMPLETE, INSTALL NEW ROTOR RETAINERS (P/N
06026430) ON OPPOSING STUDS.
5. If the vehicle continues to drift in the same direction as originally
found then a thicker shim must be used. Repeat steps 1 through 3 using a 5.0
mm shim (p/ln 04863757). Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7
through 11 in the diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation.
If the condition is corrected, the repair is complete. However, if the
vehicle still continues to drift in the same direction as originally found,
then a thicker than 5.0 mm shim must be used. In this event the wheel studs
must be replaced with part number 04864186, provided in kit number 04864546
Wheel Shim & Stud Kit.
PROCEDURE FOR 6.5 MM SHIM
6. Remove the brake caliper from the mounting and remove the rotor
retainers.
7. Remove the rotor from the steering knuckle as outlined in the 1997 Ram
Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81 -370-71 08), pages 5-28 through
5-30.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL STUDS WHILE THE HUB IS
INSTALLED ON THE SPINDLE OR BEARING DAMAGE WILL RESULT.
8. Press the original wheel studs out of the hub as outlined in the 1997
Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81-370-7108) page 2-19.
9. Press the five new, longer studs (P/N 04864186) into the hub.
Kenneth Frei
12. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle,
install the caliper assembly.
13. Install a 6.5 mm shim (p/n 04863762) on the hub over the rotor. Make
sure the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
14. Install the wheel on the rotor, make sure that the wheel is centered
on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug nuts following the pattern
given in the 1996 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81 -370-6108)
page 22-10.
15. Finish tightening the lug nuts to 163 - 203 Nm (120 - 150 ft. lbs.)
following the pattern given on pages 22-9 and 22-10.
16. Road test the vehicle to insure that drift is now corrected.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE MORE THAN ONE SHIM ON A WHEEL OR SPACE THE WHEEL MORE
THAN 6.5 MM AWAY FROM THE ROTOR.
DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE FOR ANY CONDITION(S) OTHER THAN THE ONE
DISCUSSED IN THIS CHASSIS DYNAMICS DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS.
DO NOT INSTALL THESE SHIMS ON THE REAR OF A VEHICLE.
**17. If the drift continues to occur but only under a heavy braking
condition and the vehicle is rated at 8800 GVW, proceed to the "SUSPENSION
ARM INSTALLATION" section.**
3500 SERIES WITH DUAL REAR WHEELS, SHIMMING PROCEDURE:
1 . With wheel removed install 3.5 mm shim (p/n 04863760) on the hub
extension and stud assembly, make sure that the shim is installed as marked
"THIS SIDE OUT."
2. Install the wheel on the hub extension and stud assembly, make sure
that the wheel is centered on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug
nuts following the pattern given in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual
(Publication Number 81-370-7108) page 22-10.
3. Finish tightening the lug nuts to 176 - 217 Nm (130 - 160 ft. lbs.)
following the pattern given on pages 22-9 and 22-10.
Kenneth Frei
CAUTION: BE SURE HUB IS SUPPORTED, LOAD REACTION MUST NOT BE TAKEN
THROUGH THE BEARING.
10. Install the rotor, then install the caliper assembly.
11. Install a 6.5 mm shim (pin 04863758) on the hub over the rotor. Make
sure the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT." Install two retainers
(p/n 06026430) on the studs on opposite sides of the rotor to retain the
shim.
12. Install the wheel on the rotor, install lug nuts. Make sure that the
wheel is centered on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug nuts
following the pattern given in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual
(Publication Number 81 -370-7108), page 22-10.
13. Finish tightening the lug nuts to 108 - 150 Nm (80-110 ft. lbs.)
following pattern given on page 22-9 and 22-10.
14. Road test the vehicle to insure that drift is now corrected.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE MORE THAN ONE SHIM ON A WHEEL OR SPACE THE WHEEL MORE
THAN 6.5 MM AWAY FROM THE ROTOR.
DO NOT PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE FOR ANY CONDITION(S) OTHER THAN THE ONE
DISCUSSED IN THIS CHASSIS DYNAMICS DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS.
DO NOT INSTALL THESE SHIMS ON THE REAR OF A VEHICLE.
2500 SERIES WITH SINGLE REAR WHEELS, SHIMMING PROCEDURE:
1. With wheel removed install 3.5 mm shim (p/in 04863760), make sure that
the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
2. Install the wheel on the rotor, make sure that the wheel is centered
on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug nuts following the pattern
given in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81-370-7108)
page 22-10.
3. Finish tightening the lug nuts to 163 - 203 Nm (120 - 150 ft. lbs.)
following the pattern given on pages 22-9 and 22-10.
4. Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7 through 11 in the
Diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation. If the condition is
corrected, the repair is complete. If the vehicle drifts to the opposite
direction than originally found then repeat steps 1 through 3, using a 2.0
mm shim (pin 04863759).
Kenneth Frei
5. If the vehicle continues to drift in the same direction as originally
found then a thicker shim must be used. Repeat steps 1 through 3 using a 5.0
mm shim (p/n 04863761). Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7
through 11 in the diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation.
If the condition is corrected, the repair is complete. However if the
vehicle still continues to drift in the same direction as originally found,
then a thicker than 5.0 mm shim must be used. In this event the wheel studs
must be replaced.
PROCEDURE FOR 6.5 MM SHIM
6. On the 2500 series vehicles equipped with 3850 or 4850 lb front GAWR
(Gross Axle Weight Rating) and single rear wheels the following procedure
should be used to determine the proper wheel stud to be used:
A. Determine the GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) of the front axle of the
vehicle from the Vehicle Safety Certification Label located on the drivers
door lock pillar. If the vehicle is equipped with:
3850 lb. front axle rating use stud part number 04864185.
4850 lb. front axle rating and single rear wheels use stud part number
04864187.
7. Remove the 5.0 mm shim installed in step 5.
8. Remove the brake caliper from the mounting.
9. Remove the hub, rotor and bearing from the steering knuckle as
outlined in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number
81-370-7108), pages 5-28 through 5-30.
10. Press the original wheel studs out of the hub as outlined in the 1997
Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication Number 81 -370-7108) page 2-19.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL STUDS WHILE THE HUB, ROTOR
AND BEARING ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED ON THE SPINDLE OR BEARING DAMAGE WILL
RESULT.
11. Press the eight new, longer studs (p/ln 04864185 or 04864187) as
determined above into the hub.
Kenneth Frei
11. Finish tightening the lug nuts to 176 - 217 Nm (130 - 160 ft. lbs.)
following the pattern given on pages 22-9 and 22-10.
12. Road test the vehicle to insure that drift is now corrected.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE MORE THAN ONE SHIM ON A WHEEL OR SPACE THE WHEEL MORE
THAN 6.5 MM AWAY FROM THE ROTOR.
DO NOT PERFORM THIS TSB PROCEDURE FOR ANY CONDITION(S) OTHER THAN THE ONE
DISCUSSED IN THIS CHASSIS DYNAMICS DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS.
DO NOT INSTALL THESE SHIMS ON THE REAR OF A VEHICLE.
**13. If the drift continues to occur but only under a heavy braking
condition, proceed to the "SUSPENSION ARM INSTALLATION" section.**
**SUSPENSION ARM INSTALLATION
1 . Raise and support the vehicle.
2. On one side of the vehicle, remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam,
and cam bolt from the axle.
3. Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail bracket and remove the
lower suspension arm.
4. Position the new lower suspension arm (p/n 4886170AA) at the axle
bracket and the frame rail bracket.
5. Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
6. Install the cam bolt, cam, and nut in the axle end of the suspension
arm and tighten the nut finger tight.
7. Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt at the axle bracket.
8. Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and remove the upper
suspension arm.
9. Position the new upper suspension arm (p/n 4886166AA) at the axle and
frame rail.
10. Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
11. Perform steps 2 through 10 on the other side of the vehicle.
Kenneth Frei
4. Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7 through 11 in the
diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation. If the condition is
corrected and no drift occurs, the repair is complete. If the vehicle drifts
to the opposite direction than originally found then repeat steps 1 through
3 on the other side, using a 2.0 mm shim (p/n 04863759).
5. If the vehicle continues to drift in the same direction as originally
found then a thicker shim must be used. Repeat steps 1 through 3 using a 5.0
mm shim (p/n 04863761). Road test the vehicle again as described in step 7
through 11 in the diagnosis section of the Suspension Geometry Evaluation.
If the condition is corrected and no drift occurs, the repair is complete.
However if the vehicle still continues to drift in the same direction as
originally found, then a thicker than 5.0 mm shim must be used. In this
event the wheel studs must be replaced.
PROCEDURE FOR 6.5 MM SHIM
6. Press the original wheel studs out of the hub extension and stud
assembly as outlined in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication
Number 81-370-7108) page 2-19.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL STUDS WHILE THE HUB EXTENSION
AND STUD ASSEMBLY ARE INSTALLED ON THE ROTOR AND KNUCKLE OR BEARING DAMAGE
WILL RESULT.
7. Press the eight new, longer studs (p/n 04864188) into the hub extension
and stud assembly. CAUTION: BE SURE HUB IS SUPPORTED, LOAD REACTION MUST NOT
BE TAKEN OUT THROUGH THE BEARING.
8. Install the hub extension and stud assembly to the hub, rotor and
bearing assembly.
9. Install a 6.5 mm shim (p/n 04863762) on the hub extension and stud
assembly. Make sure that the shim is installed as marked "THIS SIDE OUT."
CAUTION: DO NOT INSTALL RETAINERS ON HUB EXTENSION STUDS TO RETAIN SHIM
AS THEY WILL INTERFERE WITH WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND WHEEL NUT TORQUE RETENTION.
10. Install the wheel on the hub extension and stud assembly, make sure
that the wheel is centered on the studs and partially tighten all of the lug
nuts following the pattern given in the 1997 Ram Truck Service Manual
(Publication Number 81 -370-71 08) page 22-10.
Kenneth Frei
05-01-01-92 ......... 1.9 Hrs. Install Alignment Sleeves
Optional Equipment: **22-01-01-90** ................................ 0.2
Hrs. Dual Rear Wheels
Additional Repairs As Required:
02-10-10-90 .................................. 1.7 Hrs. Perform Ball Joint
Tightening Sequence
02-10-10-91 .................................. 3.0 Hrs. Replace Ball Joints
and Perform Tightening Sequence
22-45-02-91 .................................. 0.6 Hrs. Install 3.5mm Shim
On Opposite Side Of Drift And Road Test
22-45-02-92 .................................. 0.6 Hrs. Remove 3.5mm Shim
And Install 5.0mm Shim And Road Test
22-45-02-93 ........ ......................... 1.6 Hrs. Remove 5.Omm Shim,
Replace Wheel Studs, Install 6.5mm Shim, And Road Test On 1500 Series Trucks
22-45-02-94 .................................. 2.0 Hrs. Remove 5.Omm Shim,
Replace Wheel Studs, Install 6.5mm Shim, And Road Test On 2500/3500 Series
Trucks With Single Rear Wheels
22-45-02-95 .................................. 1.5 Hrs. Remove 5.Omm Shim,
Replace Wheel Studs, Install 6.5mm Shim, And Road Test On 2500/3500 Series
Trucks With Dual Rear Wheels
**02-10-76-94 ............... : ................. 2.6 Hrs. Replace upper and
lower suspension arms, align the front suspension, and road test**
FAILURE CODE: XX - Service Adjustment
Kenneth Frei
12. Remove all supports and lower the vehicle.
NOTE: FINAL TORQUE ON ALL FASTENERS SHOULD BE WITH THE VEHICLE AT CURB
HEIGHT WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE ON THE TIRES.
13. Tighten the frame end of the upper suspension arm bolts to 84 Nm (62
ft. lbs.) of torque for vehicles with a wax coat frame and 108 Nm (80 ft.
lbs.) of torque for vehicles with a E-coat frame.
14. Tighten the axle end of the upper suspension arm bolts to 121 Nm (89
ft. lbs.) of torque.
15. Tighten the frame end of the lower suspension arm bolts to 122 Nm (90
ft. lbs.) of torque for vehicles with a wax coat frame and 170 Nm (I 25 ft.
lbs.) of torque for vehicles with a E-coat frame.
16. Tighten the axle end of the lower suspension arm bolts to 129 Nm (95
ft. lbs.) of torque.
17. Perform an alignment on the vehicle with the revised suspension arms
installed as outline an page 12, "CORRECTING FOR FRONT CASTERICAMBER" and on
page 16, "CORRECTING FOR TOE." NOTE: SET CASTER/CAMBER AND TOE TO THE
PREFERRED SETTINGS WHEN ALIGNING THE VEHICLE.
18. Road test the vehicle to insure that drift is now corrected.
NOTE: CUSTOMERS SHOULD BE MADE AWARE THAT THE USE OF THE NEW SUSPENSION ARMS
MAY REDUCE THE RIDE QUALITY OF THE VEHICLE.
** POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No:
05-01-01-90 ........... 3.6 Hrs. Includes Road Test,Brake System Evaluation,
Steering and Suspension Inspection, and Steering Geometry Evaluation
(Alignments)
05-01-01-91 .......... 0.7 Hrs. Correcting Thrust Angle
mac davis
<kf...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <macd...@nospam.attbi.com> wrote in message
>news:3c899bf8...@netnews.attbi.com...
>> On Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:03:59 -0500, "Kenneth Frei"
>> <kf...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>> >Try this TSB http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1997/05-03-97/page1.html
>> >
>> i went to the url, and it talks about a nut and a wrench, but doesn't
>> say WHAT the problem is...
>>
>
>OK, Here is page 1 of 27 (links on the bottom of the page)
in other words, it must be the owners fault, right?
>
>Technical
> Service
> Bulletin SUBJECT:
>Chassis Dynamics Diagnosis NO:
>
>GROUP:
>
>EFFECTIVE DATE:
> 05-03-97
>
>Brakes
>
>Mar. 17, 1997
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>----
>
>THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 05-10-96, DATED DEC.
>13,1996, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE 1996
>TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL (PUBLICATION NO. 81-699- 97010). REVISIONS
>HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, THE PROCEDURE, AND LABOR
>OPERATION NUMBERS. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**.
>
>MODELS:
>
>1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck
>
>SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
>
>Chassis Dynamics Diagnosis is the diagnosis of a condition where the vehicle
>may move either to the right or the left when not controlled by the driver.
>This condition can be caused by any of the following:
>
>Non-Factory Installed Options (e.g. Snow plow)
>Tires or Wheels of Different Size
>Aftermarket Wheels
>Tires That Have a Belt That Has Shifted
>Incorrect Tire Pressure
>A Vehicle That is Carrying Extra Added Weight (e.g. tool boxes)
>Steering and/or Suspension Components That Are Worn or Damaged
>Wheel Bearings That Are Worn or Damaged
>A Vehicle That Is Not Within Alignment Specifications
>Brake Drag From Brake Components That Do Not Release
>Braking Imbalance
>
>NOTE:
>
>UNDER CERTAIN ROAD CONDITIONS (E.G. HIGH ROAD CROWN, GROOVED ROADS, ETC.),
>MOST VEHICLES WILL MOVE TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT UNCONTROLLED BY THE DRIVER.
>ALSO, THE SAME MAY HAPPEN IF A CROSS WIND CONDITION EXISTS.
>
>
>
>
Mac
(yeah, the guy who builds trebuchets)