Dodge Factory Tow Pkg Questions
Stamey
as I just bought a 20 ft., tandem, flatbed, equipment trailer.
The truck has this huge, I guess 8 conductor, trailer light socket on it,
which is also supposed to accomodate the trailer brakes, according to the
user manual.
1. Does this mean that it will handle the trailer brakes as is?
Or
2. Does this mean that it will need a trailer brake controller wired up and
fed into the socket with the lighting wiring, and that huge socket is only
to accomodate the wiring for a trailer brake controller, should I choose to
add it?
3. What about the towing in overdrive? I will only be towing about 5-6K, or
empty.
4. Do I need to not use OD anytimes I have the trailer hooked up, or would
that only apply when I have a load on it?
5. Is the 5-6K load big enough to warrant turning off OD?
The manual says not to use OD if the trany is downshifting from OD a lot,
such as in a hilly area. Is this good advice?
Thanks,
Chris
-------------
'99 2500 Quad, Cummins, SWB, slush box, Amsoiled through and through, all
stock except for Westin nerf bars, but itchin' to change that.
dougv
I have the same truck only a 2001.
The towing package includes the eight pin trailer connector which is
universal with most travel trailers. Under the dash is a connector that will
interface with an electric brake controller. If you didn't get the plug, you
can get it from any Dodge dealer and you should find that the wires on the
plug match up color to color to an electric break controller. I think mine
did but if not the controller will have a diagram that shows the pin outs.
As far as towing goes, my trailer is a 27 foot and weighs about 6500 dry. I
use OD as long as I am on the highway in somewhat even terrain, which is
hard to come by in the northeast. If it seems to be hunting in and out of
OD, I will leave it off.
I also have a flat bed landscaping type trailer but haven't pulled it with
the Dodge yet. Before the Dodge I had an Expedition and a F150 with the 6.
Both pulled it ok and I used the electric brakes on both trucks. I felt a
lot more comfortable with 4 more braking wheels. It wasn't bad empty but I
have a Kabota tractor and that weighs quite a bit. The person who owned it
before me used it as a car hauler and never used the electric brakes. I
think it had a boat type 4 pin connector on it but I changed it to match the
other trailer.\
Doug
"Stamey" <Sta...@REMOVExME.Farther.com> wrote in message
news:elzg8.33982$0C1.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Yofuri
commercial 18-wheeler 7-pin with round pins. The pin connections are
different, so you'll have to match your trailer connector to your truck.
There is an electric brake line in both versions. but on different pin
positions.
You should have received two towing cable accessories with your truck's
camper package. One is a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter for connecting lightweight
trailers that don't have brakes. The other is a 4-pin pigtail to connect
the brake controller to its harness connector, which is tucked up into the
wiring behind the dash, right above the steering column.
Here's the wiring diagram for your 7-pin connector, brake controller
harness, and 4-pin for lightweight towing:
http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm
If your trailer should have the commercial round-pin 7-pin connector on it's
cable, here's how it's normally wired:
http://www.hitchmen.com/wirediag.html
I'd recommend replacing the connector on the trailer cable with the flat-pin
to match your truck, rather than changing your truck or buying adapters.
The cable connector is an $8 item most places, and is easy to connect, if
you have the wiring scheme.
Rick
"Stamey" <Sta...@REMOVExME.Farther.com> wrote in message
news:elzg8.33982$0C1.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Stamey
I do plan to change the trailer to the truck. Why mess with a good thing,
from the factory. I bought this truck used 2 months ago, that's why I don't
have the extra adapters you speak of. I will check into the other stuff ASAP
to see what I need. I plan to pick up the trailer tomorrow and I will pull
it home no lights or brakes then start fixing stuff to work correctly.
Thanks,
Chris
"Yofuri" <yof...@pioneernet.net> wrote in message
news:3c82d75f$1...@corp-news.newsgroups.com...
MAX340
found in the glove box, splice the controller to the harness and plug the
harness into the light blus socket alongside the one on the steering column
under the dash.
>3. What about the towing in overdrive? I will only be towing about 5-6K, or
>empty.
Just say no to OD while loaded.
>4. Do I need to not use OD anytimes I have the trailer hooked up, or would
>that only apply when I have a load on it?
Yup, if you exceed the GVWR of the truck alone (8800lbs), cancel OD.
>5. Is the 5-6K load big enough to warrant turning off OD?
Still yes.
>The manual says not to use OD if the trany is downshifting from OD a lot,
>such as in a hilly area. Is this good advice?
Very good, take it as law.
Install a trans cooler.
Max
"Reality.exe" not found ------->Application "Universe" terminated.
remove....@nospam.svn.net
> I have the factory tow package on my 1999 2500 and I have questions about it
> as I just bought a 20 ft., tandem, flatbed, equipment trailer.
> The truck has this huge, I guess 8 conductor, trailer light socket on it,
> which is also supposed to accomodate the trailer brakes, according to the
> user manual.
> 1. Does this mean that it will handle the trailer brakes as is?
> Or
> 2. Does this mean that it will need a trailer brake controller wired up and
> fed into the socket with the lighting wiring, and that huge socket is only
> to accomodate the wiring for a trailer brake controller, should I choose to
> add it?
You'll have to add a trailer brake controller. If you have the tow package,
you'll have a connector under the dashboard next to the parking brake for
a trailer brake controller.
> 3. What about the towing in overdrive? I will only be towing about 5-6K, or
> empty.
> 4. Do I need to not use OD anytimes I have the trailer hooked up, or would
> that only apply when I have a load on it?
With an empty trailer, I wouldn't worry about it because it isn't much
different then filling up the back of your truck with landscaping
materials. Basically, if the truck is in OD and shifts in and out
of OD regularly, you need to turn it off. It doesn't really hurt the
engine to run a little higher (especially with the advantage of saving
the trans) and the mileage difference for towing with/without OD (at least
for me) is maybe 2 or 3 mpg.
> 5. Is the 5-6K load big enough to warrant turning off OD?
Yes! I tow a 21' boat that weighs between 4000 and 4500 lbs. and tow
with OD off. (If I leave it on, the transmission shifts down as soon
as there is a noticable grade.) I have a 2000 Dakota with the 4.7L
V8 and the 3.92 rearend.
> The manual says not to use OD if the trany is downshifting from OD a lot,
> such as in a hilly area. Is this good advice?
Yes! What will ruin your transmission is the constant shifting up and
down under load. This is true of any automatic transmission. If you're
driving on an uphill/curvy road with or without the trailer, especially
in the summer time, it's better to leave OD off because the transmission
will run cooler.
If you're towing on a flat road you can try to turn OD off. If the truck
stays in the higher gear, then you'll probably be OK. It's really up to
you.
-Bill
telestar
the electric brake controller. When you buy the controller make sure it
says for Dodge, you won't have to do any other wiring. The socket on the
bumper will work just fine. You should have, in your glove box an
adapter that allows you to use the flat connector common to boat
trailers and other small trailers also.
agrumpy...@earthlink.net
>>> 2. Does this mean that it will need a trailer brake controller wired up and
When you get the brake controller make sure it has a variable method
of manually applying the brakes. Some conmtrollers kjust have a butto
for on or off. The slider type will allow you to just apply a tweak
when scooting downhill a little faster than you like.
>>> 3. What about the towing in overdrive? I will only be towing about 5-6K, or
>>> empty.
Now this I am an expert on. The last towing I did was from TX with a
5000lb milling machine on a 2300lb flat bed. Out on the TX plains I
was cruising at 80 in OD and converter locked for around 2300rpm. Got
18mpg to boot for that leg. 1995 1500 SWB 5.6L, one arse hauling
machine. I love it. Without the trailer on it doesn't understand the
word "hill."
I only use the OD switch if the thing tells me it isn't happy. By that
I mean it starts shuffling back and forth out of lockup and OD. Then I
hit the switch and leave it there until the truck is horizonatal and I
can see blue sky filling half my viewing panel.
Make sure all of the other bits are rated at or above what you are
towing. A 10K tongue and 8K ball cost little more than the 5K. I also
fitted a 10K hitch.
--
Grumpy The Third Dwarf
AKA Dave Johnson
===================================
Metamucil, the ultimate load binder
===================================
milesh
park brake lever, tucked up under the center of the dash or any number of
other places. Did the location change from year to year, plant to plant??
Most told me that even without the tow package, theirs had the connector.
I looked all over on my 2000 and 2001 rams that did not have the tow
package. I never looked under the carpet though. I wired it up by hand
and all works.
agrumpy...@earthlink.net
>>other places. Did the location change from year to year, plant to plant??
Must have, mine's (1995) on the steering column just up out of sight.
MAX340
>5000lb milling machine on a 2300lb flat bed. Out on the TX plains I
>was cruising at 80 in OD and converter locked for around 2300rpm.
Thats not the "expert" way to do things.
>I only use the OD switch if the thing tells me it isn't happy.
I hope it lets you know when its too hot as well.
>By that
>I mean it starts shuffling back and forth out of lockup and OD. Then I
>hit the switch and leave it there until the truck is horizonatal and I
>can see blue sky filling half my viewing panel.
You had too much load on to have it in OD, let alone be running at 80MPH with
the braking system of a 1500 series truck.
>Make sure all of the other bits are rated at or above what you are
>towing. A 10K tongue and 8K ball cost little more than the 5K. I also
>fitted a 10K hitch.
What about the brakes? What about the GCVWR of the truck?
Sorry, both of these FAIL your criteria of being rated to do the weight you
were pulling.
RedNeck TookOver Hell
to even think about towing like that, let alone do it, then post how much of an
"expert" he is about towing.
>Subject: Re: Dodge Factory Tow Pkg Questions
>Path: lobby!ngtf-m01.news.aol.com!audrey05.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
>Lines: 31
>X-Admin: ne...@aol.com
>From: max...@aol.comQ (MAX340)
>Newsgroups: alt.autos.dodge.trucks
>Date: 06 Mar 2002 00:21:59 GMT
>References: <i6fa8ug3hq4hjorkn...@4ax.com>
>Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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>
>
Tom Lawrence
That crackling sound you hear in the background is Hell freezing over...
:)
Ron
commercial 18-wheeler 7-pin with round pins. The pin connections are
different, so you'll have to match your trailer connector to your truck.
There is an electric brake line in both versions. but on different pin
positions.
You should have received two towing cable accessories with your truck's
camper package. One is a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter for connecting lightweight
trailers that don't have brakes. The other is a 4-pin pigtail to connect
the brake controller to its harness connector, which is tucked up into the
wiring behind the dash, right above the steering column.
Here's the wiring diagram for your 7-pin connector, brake controller
harness, and 4-pin for lightweight towing:
http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm
If your trailer should have the commercial round-pin 7-pin connector on it's
cable, here's how it's normally wired:
http://www.hitchmen.com/wirediag.html
I'd recommend replacing the connector on the trailer cable with the flat-pin
to match your truck, rather than changing your truck or buying adapters.
The cable connector is an $8 item most places, and is easy to connect, if
you have the wiring scheme.
Rick
"Stamey" <Sta...@REMOVExME.Farther.com> wrote in message
news:elzg8.33982$0C1.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...