How to find dealer invoice price in Canada?
Joe
states - any way I can find the Canadian counterpart?
PS: For those of you that go into a dealership armed with the dealer invoice
price, how close do you get to it in the final deal?
If the vehicle ends up being a factory order, does the dealer still get a few
percent off the invoice price (ie hold-back) ?
Moonraker
the internet sales manager. Found out I hated the car business, but that is
another story. Bad feet and long hours, mostly.
Your local dealer may have a website. If so, they likely have a "no haggle"
price policy, and you mostly can stay anonymous until you decide on the
dealer or car. Or, you can use CarPoint or AutoBuyTel or any of the major
referral sites, you will get a reply that you can respond to with email.
I've sold hundreds of units to people I never met until they came in to take
delivery.
If the internet department isn't willing to quote you the exact price, tax,
tag, title, and fees, drive out, then the next dealer down the road will.
They should only get one shot to give you their best price, and most of the
referral companies will put the dealership in a world of shit if they
low-ball you and start the bump and grind routine when you show up. I had
to sign an agreement with the referral companies we used that the price
quoted is the price we delivered at. The only negotiation was what the
trade-in was worth.
And, don't expect to get retail prices for a trade. Look at www.kbb.com and
evaluate your trade. In the SE USA, I found that Kelley way overvalues
wholesale, so you won't be disappointed if you take the "worst" condition
rating for your trade and then take another 15-20% off that figure for a
trade allowance. Expect that kind of a figure..
Depending on the vehicle..you should be able to buy from exact invoice to
$500 over. Mostly that figure varies with the desirability of the unit and
the depth of the dealer's inventory. Don't expect to buy a Viper or a Vette
at invoice...but realistically expect to pay $3-400US over invoice on a Ram
(not 4x4 or diesel) and $150 over on a Dakota (not RT). I usually sold
"all" 4x4's and SUV's at $750 over.
Unless you live in an area where there are only a few dealers, buy for
price. Forget the place even has a service department. You can take the
vehicle "anywhere" for the service you want.
You may as well forget there is "something" called hold-back. I have only
seen a very few times where the sales manager went into holdback...and that
was on a 300 day old unit that was a purple 4-banger with no AC. There are
other reserves in the Mopar invoices besides holdback and ad allowances. If
you see an authentic invoice at a dealers, the actual accounting net, net,
net cost figure is on the invoice. It will be a 5 digit number with no $
sign or decimal point and followed with the letters EP. ( On a GM invoice
it is a 5 digit number with Acct. 310 beside it).
All this means is that if you buy at invoice or a few hundred over, you will
be doing well, and so will the dealer. I had no problem faxing the invoice
on any vehicle to a prospect. If they found me on the internet, I knew they
had found Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds. Most people are comfortable knowing
the dealer made a "specific" amount of profit, like $200 or $500. What they
hate is driving off thinking they got hosed. And usually they did.
You will make the best deals on units in stock that are close to 90 days on
the lot. Depending on the floor plan arrangement, the dealer will have to
start paying interest on the unit after that time. You may not be able to
tell how long he has had the unit except by their stock number. Low numbers
have been there a long time and higher numbers are fresh. Also look at the
Maroney sticker. If the truck was originally delivered to another dealer,
the guy who has it now has lost his holdback. And he isn't going to be
willing to deal as close to invoice...unless it is the last weekend of the
month.
One last tip: Dealerships run "fast-start" contests the first 10 days of a
month, and also really put the pressure on sales managers the last few days
of the month in order to make quotas. Buy then.
Others may have different opinions or experiences, but that's what I know
fer sure. Hope this helps.
"Joe" <sm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3A739E3A...@hotmail.com...
Jeffrey J. Potoff
Joe wrote:
>
> There are lots of sources that list the dealer invoice for various cars in the
> states - any way I can find the Canadian counterpart?
>
> PS: For those of you that go into a dealership armed with the dealer invoice
> price, how close do you get to it in the final deal?
>
For a Chrysler, I always get invoice (in the USA).
> If the vehicle ends up being a factory order, does the dealer still get a few
> percent off the invoice price (ie hold-back) ?
Yes he does, and he doesn't have to pay floorplan on it, so they
actually do better on the special orders.
Jeff
Mark Poor
True. An exception is when the dealer has vehicles that have been sitting on the
lot too long (excess inventory). They would prefer to move those cars, and may
offer special offers for lot cars, and may try to discourage people from custom
ordering.
Joe
something motivates them to first do a "dealer locate" rather than go straight to a
factory order. Would that be for my benefit or theirs?
How does it benefit a dealer to -buy- (?) or swap (?) a car with another dealer,
rather than put in a factory order? Unless another dealer has the car in question and
he's really hurtin to get rid of it? Would that apply to a 2001 model at this point
(relatively early in the model year) ?
To return for a minute to the invoice price, and specifically refering to the list vs
invoice for 2001 Ram's, from the source I have, the list price is marked up by 9.5%
for the 1500 WS, and a consistent 13.6% to 14.6% as you go up the chain from 1500 ST
SB to 3500 ST Quad LB (all 2WD that is).
So, if I pick a conservative 10% target to take off the list price, and then apply the
various DC incentives ($2k from what I see) is that a good bargaining position?
Moonraker
are THERE, NOW!, and want to buy "something". You are a live one. Having
done lots and lots of dealer transfers, I can tell you from an internal
perspective that it is a royal pain in the butt. Believe me, they won't DT
a unit without a signed order and a deposit. Of course, you won't be
obligated to take the vehicle if it isn't exactly as described. Be wary of
the dealership where it is coming from. Have the salesman verify mileage on
the unit. I personally would pass on buying a DT unit if the vehicle will
have more than 100 miles on it when it gets to the delivering dealer.
"Any" vehicle sold is for the DEALER' s benefit. Period. The only way a
dealer can make out on a transfer is if he trades a more expensive vehicle
to the other dealer than the one he's getting in return. And that is a
relatively small amount of money, 3% of $2 or 3K isn't a lot, especially
when it costs labor time and fuel to pick up and deliver the cars. Most
dealers only do DT's as a courtesy because they know that it won't be long
until THEY need a unit. The only way DT's benefit a dealer is that the
delivered unit goes against his factory goals and helps with his allocation
on future orders. Well, there is another way DT's benefit dealers...if you
are wanting a lime green Neon with no AC and "somebody" has one. He'll be
real glad to let you have it.
In times of good car sales, the dealerships are on manufacturing allocation,
especially on desirable body styles. So, the factory might not even accept
the order for "your" unit, given that "your" dealer doesn't have an
allocation for what you want. Don't get misled by a dealership that will
"take your order" for a unit. Especially for a desirable, popular
style/color/engine, etc. In many cases, they can't begin to order the
vehicle, and they know it. What they have done is "de-horsed" you. Taken
you out of the shopping market. You think you have "bought" a
vehicle....all that is happened is that they are earning interest on your
deposit while they are hoping for a miracle that an acceptable vehicle might
show up from one in transit or that they can DT one that is in transit to
another dealer. If you don't belive me, go try to order a Corvette or
Viper, or Prowler. Or a new Power Wagon (if one ever happens). It was that
way with the PT Cruiser, the new body styles of the Tahoe and Suburban.
Floor plan for every dealership where I've worked didn't kick in until the
vehicle was on the lot for 90 days. That meant that any unit sold between
day 1 and day 89 didn't cost any interest.
If you walk into a showroom thinking about % discounts, you will likely pay
too much. If you have your financing in hand and aren't interested in
trading your old vehicle..tell the salesman you will pay $150 over invoice,
and see what happens. And the first time he says "if I could, would you?",
you need to get up and leave. You can figure the invoice from
www.edmunds.com or www.kbb.com .
"Joe" <sm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3A74997F...@hotmail.com...
Joe
upon delivery, that a factory order might not come in before the incentive
ends. At the beginning of the incentive period, the dealer may figure that a
factory order will be filled way before a typical incentive ends (say 3
months). So the dealer _may_ be comfortable garanteeing you the incentive price
- he says he'll eat the difference if the incentive runs out before delivery.
He may also pass on to you the benefit of a better incentive if it comes along
by the time of delivery.
There are lots of deals out there now, but maybe most of them are delivery
incentives, with the goal to sell cars already produced.
I don't know, the above is just me speculating. Any truth to it?
Moonraker wrote:
> The reason a dealer wants to "locate" or "transfer" a vehicle is that YOU
> are THERE, NOW!, and want to buy "something".
> Most dealers only do DT's as a courtesy because they know that it won't be