Royal Purple Synthetic oil for 5.9 Cummins???
Dinny82
since the car had 3k miles. He now has 65k and has never changed it. Car
sounds great!
Could it be used for the 5.9 Cummins, or would I have to go to Amsoil? Is it
worth it or good for a diesel? I mean if it lasts for 50k or much longer and
you don't have to change the oil... There has to be a catch or we'd all be
using it.
Looking for some opinions!
Thanks,
Kevin
99 Ram QC LB 5.9 Cummins 4.10
Theodoric Of York
Roy
but not sure which. I don't believe Am-whatever is approved for the Cummins,
check it out with first. I'd be a little leery of stuff that you can't run
out and buy at the local part's store. I'm not a big fan of extended oil
changes, so I use the dino oil's.
Later,
Roy
"Dinny82" <din...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010917222138...@mb-dd.aol.com...
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
motor oil is for gasoline engines. The oil should be 15w40 and must meet
the API rating CH-4. Mobil 1 does not meet these requirements, AMSoil
does make a diesel engine oil but I strongly recommend against doing
extended drains in your Cummins with the stock filtering system and
really, I don't recommend AMSoil either.
Royal Purple has a 15w40 API certified synthetic suitable for use in the
Cummins, but I don't see anything on their site that talks about extended
drains. The cost for Royal Purple is $4.99/qt or roughly $20 per gallon.
The only API licensed/certified AMSoil diesel oil is their synthetic
blend, the other 15w40 diesel oil is
only API rated, so there's no guarantee that it even meets the minimum
specs that API certification gives, you only have AMSoil's word that the
oil meets the specs. Also, they don't promise extended drains with their
oil and diesel engines, they say you can go UP TO twice as many miles
between changes or 6 months (total, not additional), whichever comes
first. The owner's manual states 6mo/6k miles under normal conditions, so
if the 6 months comes up first you gain nothing. Assuming you reach 6k
miles first that's two oil changes per year. Figure 3 gallons per change,
6 gallons per year.
Royal Purple synthetic @ $20/gal x 6 = $120
AMSoil synthetic diesel oil runs $19.90/gal X 6 = $119
AMSoil synthetic blend oil runs $16.40/gal x 6 = $98
Compare that with Valvoline/Cummins Premium Blue at $6.99/gal x 6 = $42
That's a savings of $56 to $78 per year on oil alone, you could almost pay
for 2-3 years of oil changes with a high quality oil like Cummins Premium
Blue for 1 year of AMSoil or Royal Purple.
Also consider that the MTBO (mean time between overhauls) for the Cummins
is 400,000 miles and that is using a good quality conventional heavy-duty
diesel oil (Rotella T, Delo 400, Premium Blue) and not a synthetic. From
the trucks I've seen, 400,000 miles seems to actually be a very
conservative number.
That said, I do run synthetic oil in both of my gasoline powered vehicles
and am comfortable going a little beyond the recommended change intervals,
plus I have seen first hand how well synthetic oils keep engines clean and
wear to a minimum. However, I do not run synthetic oil in my Cummins.
With nearly 3x the oil capacity as a gasoline engine and the oil being
subjected to harsher conditions and more contaminants (mainly fuel) I
don't recommend going 50k miles between changes on ANY engine, let alone a
diesel. The exception being the heavy-duty diesel engines in OTR trucks
that are subjected to oil analysis and have a different filtering system
than the Cummins and other light- and medium-duty diesels.
Obviously you can do whatever you like with your truck, just make sure you
get oil that meets the requirements of the engine. With a 100k mile
warranty and an engine designed to go hundreds of thousands of miles you
need to decide if you're willing to risk violating your warranty (Going
WAY beyond recommended oil change intervals is considered abuse/neglect
and any failure caused by that is not covered under your warranty) and
possibly going way beyond the oil's service life with the extended drains.
Sure, you can do oil analysis, but again, weigh the cost of the test and
the cost of the oil against how much it would cost to just use a readily
available conventional oil. Both AMSoil and Royal Purple are pretty hard
to find in stores (some shops do sell them) and you can purchase either
online (then you add in the cost of shipping)...for this particular
application, I see no benefit to using anything other than a good
conventional oil, take the money you'll save and put it in a savings
account or spend it on BOMBing your truck. =)
Just my long-winded $0.02...
Dinny82 <din...@aol.com> wrote:
> Looking for some opinions!
> Thanks,
> Kevin
--
Hogan Whittall
__________________________________________________________________
This is formal notice under California Assembly Bill 1629, enacted
9/26/98 that any UCE sent to my email address will be billed $50
per incident to the legally allowed maximum of $25,000.
__________________________________________________________________
Jerry
and they seem to sell a lot of it in my neighborhood. I've heard other
owners of the Cummins 5.9 swear by it but I certainly wouldn't run it
for the extended mileage your talking about. Personally I wouldn't go
more than 10-15,000 miles with any synthetic oil and would most likely
change it at 7,000. Presently with plain old dino oil I change at
4,000.
Jerry
Dinny82
>From: ho...@NOSPAMextremejeep.com
>Date: 9/18/01 1:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <fCAp7.151$2r2...@rubicon.extremejeep.com>
Hogan,
I appreciate your response. I will NOT use any synthetic in my Cummins.
That guy at my job who has been using the same 5 quarts for 60k must be crazy!
He says he checks it from time to time but thats it. I asked him if he has had
it tested and he looked at me as if I had 2 heads! LOL What he doesn't know
can't hurt him, right? heheh
That's why I come here... Thanks
Dinny82
>Date: 9/18/01 12:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <9o6h6...@enews3.newsguy.com>
>I'm not a big fan of extended oil
>changes, so I use the dino oil's.
>
Shoot me Roy. Dino oil's? I use Valvoline. Is this ok? I change it every
4k. Should I be using a better oil?
Thanks,
Kevin
Dinny82
>Date: 9/18/01 1:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <3BA6D261...@earthlink.net>
>Presently with plain old dino oil I change at
>4,000.
Thanks Jerry. Right now I'm trying to find out what dino oil is...
Thanks,
Kevin
John Jemiolo
"Dinny82" <din...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010918213635...@mb-fy.aol.com...
DDgvg81
If your friend has not changed the oil in 62,000 miles he is a FOOL. Do not go
by his example.
I use Shell Rotella and have been happy with the results. I change it every
5000 miles if i am not pulling our trailer and every 3000 miles if I am.
Duane
JD
The real 'key' to reducing engine wear seems to be filtration. As I recall
from college a chemisty class Oil NEVER breaks down (except from excessive
heat). So, the only reason we change it is to dump the contaminants. My
naighbor uses a 'bypass filter' and showed me an oil analysis printout after
10,000 miles on the oil. It was actually cleaner than when the oil came from
the bottle (only 1 micron sized particles, while new oil is filtered to 3
microns!!). I swear I'd never have beleived it. Anyway, synthetics are nice
but I'm now convinced the real issue is the filtering. There's a site,
www.OilGuardFilters.com that has a pretty good explanation about oils,
filtering, and additives, etc. It's about the best site I've seen on the
subject.
Roy
Later,
Roy
"JD" <N...@Spam.com> wrote in message news:9oq16...@enews4.newsguy.com...
CBHVAC
They left out a few things....and you are too stupid to understand them...
Oh...wait...I should take that back....you are just trying to get hits on
your site...
Nah...
"JD" <N...@Spam.com> wrote in message news:9oq16...@enews4.newsguy.com...
Dave
posted a question about other contanimants(sic), like water, etc., got no
reply?
Thanks;
Dave
Ken Marsh <kma...@charm.net> wrote in message
news:trk6ijo...@corp.supernews.com...
> In article <9oq16...@enews4.newsguy.com>, JD <N...@Spam.com> wrote:
> #The real 'key' to reducing engine wear seems to be filtration. As I
recall
> #from college a chemisty class Oil NEVER breaks down (except from
excessive
> #heat).
>
> Heat? Like, when metal grinds against metal under the flame of
> gasoline-air combustion? That would never happen in an truck engine,
> would it?
>
> Then there's Shear Forces, the mechanical tearing apart of large organic
> molecules due to physical stress...
>
> # So, the only reason we change it is to dump the contaminants.
>
> Wrong-o. Actually the only reason(s) we change it is because:
>
> 1. It is full of water contamination, which cannot be "filtered" out
> because water molecules are smaller than oil molecules,
>
> 2. It is full of gasoline or diesel contamination, which is made up
> of organic molecules similar but smaller than motor oil that
> cannot be filtered, and
>
> 3. The oil itself has broken down into smaller carbon-chain, lower
> viscosity molecules that do not provide the lubrication that fresh oil
> does and cannot be filtered, and
>
> 4. The additives wear out that give oil the necessary properties of
> water absorbtion, fluid oil flow at low temperatures, viscosity
> retention at high temperature, and last-ditch lubrication (zinc)...
>
> ... for all of which, "filtration" does nothing for us.
>
> Besides that, the oil is still full of the dirt and crap in the
> crankcase that gets re-mixed with the used/filtered oil on each pass.
>
> My
> #naighbor uses a 'bypass filter'
>
> Why should we accept technical advice from someone who can't spell
> the word "neighbor"?
>
> and showed me an oil analysis printout after
> #10,000 miles on the oil. It was actually cleaner than when the oil came
from
> #the bottle (only 1 micron sized particles, while new oil is filtered to 3
> #microns!!).
>
> Which would remove the larger, waxy "paraffin" molecules responsible for
> the best high-temperature lubrication qualities of the oil...
>
> # I swear I'd never have beleived it.
>
> Maybe you can "believe" it instead. Anyway after hawking your by-pass
> products so long you'd think you'd be convinced by now of either your
> own misconceptions, or the truth....
>
> # Anyway, synthetics are nice
>
> Oh, don't even start.
>
> #but I'm now convinced the real issue is the filtering. There's a site,
> ...
>
> Spam site clipped.
>
> Ken.
> --
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Political cowardice, mock security, and | Mail: kmarsh at charm dot net
> dollars over lives: Reagan National Apt. | WWW:
http://www.charm.net/~kmarsh
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