How to display error / fault codes 2001 Dodge Ram?
MoPar Man
What combination of switches or knobs do I push to get a listing of
any error or fault codes for a 2001 Dodge ram (5.2 L / 318 V-8 with
overhead information console) ?
It cranks fine but is not starting, is displaying "no bus" in the
odometer, and is showing "CCD" on the overhead display where the fuel
DTE and MPG readings should be. Fuel guage reads way below empty.
It's got very low miles (about 20k) and spends most of it's time in a
garage. Recently it spent a few days outside during very heavy rain.
At first I thought someone stole gas out of the tank, but it seems I'm
really just having an electrical connection problem.
I want to go through the list on this page:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32676
But I need to get an error code first, hence my question about codes.
Thanx.
FMB
news:44CB6159...@Man.com...
Quick GS using ["no bus" CCD dodge] and this interesting link popped up.
http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/724-obd-codes-my-durango-odometer-says-quotno-busquot.html
or http://tinyurl.com/mtly4 . Yeah, I know, a 99 durango is not a '01 Ram,
but could point you in a good direction to begin looking.
Also try http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v8/6191.html
FMB
MoPar Man
Ok, this worked for me (2001 Dodge Ram short cab long box):
1. Ignition switch off
2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word
CHEC appears in the display then release.
When I saw "chec" in the odo display, I let go of the trip reset knob
and the following numbers appeared one after another:
900
920
921
940
950
999
I take it that 999 is like an "end-of-code" indicator.
So I'm pretty much getting this entire laundry list:
900 The CCD data bus is not operational.
1. Check the CCD data bus connection at the cluster.
2. Check the cluster fuses.
3. Check the CCD data bus.
4. Check the CCD data bus voltage.
5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
920 The cluster is not receiving a vehicle message from the PCM.
1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the vehicle speed message
is being sent by the PCM.
921 The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from
the PCM.
1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the distance pulse message
is being sent by the PCM.
940 The cluster is not receiving an airbag message from the ACM
1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM.
2. Check the ACM fuse.
950 The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from
the CAB.
1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB
2. Check the CAB fuse.
The truck has been parked for a few days outside and has experienced
several bouts of torrential rain. I haven't been able to start it
since. It was running fine prior to being parked. Haven't had any
problems with it like this since the day I bought it new (March
2001). It's got no leaks that I'm aware of.
When I turn on the ignition, all the guages move. Battery moves to 8
volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0, and even the fuel
guage moves a little (but not to the zero or E mark).
I guess I'll have to poke around under/behind the dash, or maybe the
engine compartment.
If anyone's got any tips, I'd love to hear them.
maxpower
"MoPar Man" <Mo...@Man.com> wrote in message
news:44CB6159...@Man.com...
>
Not a truck technician but what you have is a total bus failure. there are a
few things you can check. The C130 connector, the connector that is mounted
at the firewall that feeds the inside. (Its a 43 pin connector) Since you
say it happened when it was in the rain for awhile I would start there.
Separate it and check for corrosion. There could be other reasons as well. A
bad ground for the engine controller is possible. There are connectors below
the dash at the Knee blocker that could effect this as well.
Of course an engine controller could also be at fault.
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
Tom Lawrence
>
> 1. Ignition switch off
> 2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
> 3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
> 4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word
> CHEC appears in the display then release.
Yes, but that's the procedure for the instrument cluster diagnostic check.
While that may be helpful in diagnosing the 'CCD Bus' message, to display
any engine-related OBD-II trouble codes, cycle the ignition switch
OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, and one or more 'Pxxxx' codes will display on the
odometer, culminating with 'Pdone' to indicate no more codes.
> When I turn on the ignition, all the guages move. Battery moves to 8
> volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0, and even the fuel
> guage moves a little (but not to the zero or E mark).
8 volts?!?! Let's first try a better battery that can provide the
electronics with the proper voltage. No wonder nothing's working right.
When the PCM is fed any less than 10.5 volts, strange things start to occur.
MoPar Man
> > Ok, this worked for me (2001 Dodge Ram short cab long box):
> >
> > 1. Ignition switch off
> > 2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
> > 3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
> > 4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word
> > CHEC appears in the display then release.
>
> Yes, but that's the procedure for the instrument cluster diagnostic
> check. While that may be helpful in diagnosing the 'CCD Bus'
> message, to display any engine-related OBD-II trouble codes,
> cycle the ignition switch OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, and one or
> more 'Pxxxx' codes will display on the odometer, culminating
> with 'Pdone' to indicate no more codes.
I've tried that procedure several times, but it doesn't seem to start
a diagnostic reporting process. The only thing that happens when I
perform an [on-off] [on-off] [on] ignition-key cycle is the same
thing that happens when I just switch the ignition to on - which is
the usual bell and light show from the instrument panel.
> > When I turn on the ignition, all the guages move. Battery
> > moves to 8 volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0,
> > and even the fuel guage moves a little (but not to the zero
> > or E mark).
>
> 8 volts?!?! Let's first try a better battery that can provide
> the electronics with the proper voltage.
Voltage measured at the battery (with everything off) is 12.15 volts.
When the ignition is switched on, battery voltage drops to 12.05 volts
(DRL comes on too, which is normal). Why the guages (especially the
fuel gauge) is reading below E, I have no idea.
miles
error codes present. It takes a few tries to get the timing of off-on
right but it works.
MoPar Man
> Turn the key off-on-off-on-off-on. The display should then show
> any error codes present. It takes a few tries to get the timing
> of off-on right but it works.
Let's say the ignition switch has these settings:
1) key-insert / key removal position
2) radio only position (one step counter-clock-wise from 1)
3) unknown (off?) position (one step clock-wise from 1)
4) Ignition/run position (one step clock-wise from 3)
5) crank engine position (one step clock-wise from 4)
I assume that for the off-on off-on off-on sequence, that "on" is
position 4 and "off" is position 3.
When I perform an off-on-off sequence, the bell rings immediately.
When I perform an off-on (and stay on) sequence, the bell rings 6
times, then the odometer reading flashes 4 times and changes to "no
buS", then the bell rings 4 times then a pause and then it rings 2
more times (and the low-fuel indicator comes on).
When I perform an off-on off-on off-on (and stay on) sequence, the
bell rings (or starts to ring) between each step, and at the end it
does what I describe above (rings 6 times, etc).
If I have the "off" and "on" positions correct, then how long is the
"off" time, and how long is the "on" time ?
MoPar Man
2001 Dodge ram short cab long box 5.2L/318 V-8 with overhead
information console. Very low miles (about 20k) usually parked every
night in a garage sometimes not driven for a week or two at a time.
Usually not driven at all in winter. Was working fine, was parked in
the driveway, stayed out during a couple of torrential storms (a few
days ago) and for the past 2 days it will crank but doesn't run.
It displays "no bus" in the odometer, and is showing "CCD" on the
overhead display where the fuel DTE and MPG readings should be. When
the ignition is turned on, all guages show some activity. Battery
moves to 8 volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0, and even
the fuel guage moves a little (but not to the zero or E mark).
Battery volts (as measured with a meter) is showing 12.15 volts with
nothing turned on, and 12.05 volts when key is turned to ignition
position. DRL (daylight running lights) come on as normal when key is
in ignition position. All fuses in the engine compartment and under
the small cover at the drivers-side dashboard position are good. When
I crank the engine, it turns over very fast, but doesn't start.
Under the hood, I discovered that the gasket/rubber weatherstripping
that runs across the top of the firewall was completely off and laying
across the back of the engine/air cleaner. It appears to only be a
press-fit (no glue or contact cement). Therefore any rain that went
between the hood and windshield could easily flow into the engine
compartment. It's been dry for the past 2 days, there is no evidence
of water pooling. Everything is bone dry.
I have a Haynes repair manual for Dodge Ram 1994-2001, and if the
wiring diagrams are correct then the fuel guage is a simple circuit
that is not dependent on a computer or the system bus - so it should
be indicating something above the empty mark (which it doesn't). That
manual doesn't have a good explanation of the instrument console
wiring or connections. I don't think that manual is up-to-date for
2000/2001 Ram models.
I've disconnected the battery twice (each for about 15-20 minutes) and
the second time I unplugged 3 large cables from the PCM and removed
the PCM from the firewall. Contacts appear clean and not a hint of
corrosion on either the cable ends or the PCM. I removed 4 screws
holding the cover of the PCM and observed a layer of rubber (felt a
little like jello) potting compound covering the circuit board. No
obvious water intrusion into or under the protective layer. No
components seemed dammaged.
When performing this sequence:
> 1. Ignition switch off
> 2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
> 3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
> 4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word
> CHEC appears in the display then release.
I get the following codes:
> 900 The CCD data bus is not operational.
> 1. Check the CCD data bus connection at the cluster.
Where exactly is that? What do I have to take apart or unscrew to get
to an access point?
> 2. Check the cluster fuses.
Where are they?
> 3. Check the CCD data bus.
> 4. Check the CCD data bus voltage.
> 5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
How many wires is the CCD data bus? What colors are they? Where are
their access points?
> 920 The cluster is not receiving a vehicle message from the PCM.
> 1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
Don't think I'm gonna be able to do that.
> 2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the vehicle speed message
> is being sent by the PCM.
Or that.
> 921 The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from
> the PCM.
>
> 1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
Again, no can do.
> 2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the distance pulse message
> is being sent by the PCM.
Ditto.
> 940 The cluster is not receiving an airbag message from the ACM
>
> 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM.
What is the ACM? Where is it?
> 2. Check the ACM fuse.
Where is it?
> 950 The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from
> the CAB.
>
> 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB
What's a CAB? Where is it?
> 2. Check the CAB fuse.
Where is it?
MoPar Man
Update:
According to this web site:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/pcm_fault_code.htm
Only Dodge Ram's 94 - 97 will flash the codes according to the on-off
sequence. Since mine is a 2001, I guess that explains why it's not
working and I'm not seeing any codes.
I checked for 5V at the MAP and TPS and it was there in both cases.
With one or the other still plugged in, I was getting 5V and no change
in the over-all situation.
The Tranny speed sensor was giving me 12V (the Haynes book is saying
8?).
I guess I'll have to see if there's a cheap scan tool available, or
make one:
miles
working because the 'no bus' error means there isn't any communication
to the main computer. Can't get codes without that.
Tom Lawrence
> sequence. Since mine is a 2001, I guess that explains why it's not
> working and I'm not seeing any codes.
While it's true that this function went away in '98, it came back in '00,
and has existed ever since.
I suspect it's because of your CCD bus problems that you're not getting any
codes. After all, the PCM communicates to the instrument cluster via the
CCD bus.
maxpower
"miles" <no...@nopers.com> wrote in message
news:PfUyg.17209$Nv.4468@fed1read10...
Exactly.If you have a bus failure you cant communicate with certain modules.
If it is a total bus failure you can communicate with any modules.
Just curious but Mopar man, did you check the connection as I stated?
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler tech
MoPar Man
> If you have a bus failure you cant communicate with certain
> modules. If it is a total bus failure you can communicate
> with any modules. Just curious but Mopar man, did you check
> the connection as I stated?
>
> that feeds the inside. (Its a 43 pin connector) Since you say it
> happened when it was in the rain for awhile I would start there.
> Separate it and check for corrosion. There could be other reasons
> as well. A bad ground for the engine controller is possible.
> There are connectors below the dash at the Knee blocker that
> could effect this as well.
Well, that's next. I take it that the C130 is not the connector that
plugs directly into the PCM (powertrain control module) but is
somewhere else in the engine compartment? I've already checked the 3
connectors that plug into the PCM, and they seem perfectly fine, as
does the ground connection of the PCM.
It's the PCM that's not communicating with the instrument cluster -
correct?
Are there any fuses anywere for these systems that are NOT in the
engine compartment fuse module or the side-access dashboard
compartment?
MoPar Man
Put all the tools away last night around 10 pm, closed up and locked
the truck for the night.
This morning (9:30 am) opened the truck, stuck the key in the ingition
and turned it to ignition position. Guages all went to their normal
positions - even the fuel guage went to where it should be (1/2 tank).
Ok, so I'll try the off-on off-on off-on thing with the key.
Yup, it works, I get these codes:
P0123 (Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage)
P1687 (P1687 Driver 5 Line 7)
Alternate descriptions of 1687:
No Cluster BUS Message No J1850 messages received from the
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC) module
No MIC BUS Message No CCD/J1850 messages received from the
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC) module
No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster
module
The 123 code I can understand - since I did disconnect the TP
connector to check for 5V at the connector - but I plugged it back in
so I guess the code needs to be cleared?
What exactly is the 1687 code?
I'm thinking the truck will now start, but I'd really like to know
what caused this problem.
maxpower
"MoPar Man" <Mo...@Man.com> wrote in message
> maxpower wrote:
>
> > If you have a bus failure you cant communicate with certain
> > modules. If it is a total bus failure you can communicate
> > with any modules. Just curious but Mopar man, did you check
> > the connection as I stated?
> >
> > The C130 connector, the connector that is mounted at the firewall
> > that feeds the inside. (Its a 43 pin connector) Since you say it
> > happened when it was in the rain for awhile I would start there.
> > Separate it and check for corrosion. There could be other reasons
> > as well. A bad ground for the engine controller is possible.
> > There are connectors below the dash at the Knee blocker that
> > could effect this as well.
>
> Well, that's next. I take it that the C130 is not the connector that
> plugs directly into the PCM (powertrain control module) but is
> somewhere else in the engine compartment?
Did you read my reply?
MoPar Man
> Did you read my reply?
Didn't I quote it in the previous post?
Update:
As I previously reported, the fuel guage was responding when I
switched to the ignition position and I was able to get fault codes
from (I guess?) the PCM.
I started the engine, and it fired right up. I re-positioned the
truck in the driveway, and while it was still running the fuel guage
dropped back to below empty and the "no buS" message was being shown
by the odometer and the CCD message was being displayed on the
overhead display. Engine was still running fine.
I shut the engine off, and started it again, and repeated that several
times. Each time the engine started just fine, but the "no buS" and
CCD messages are still being displayed. Strange.
WTF is going on?
MoPar Man
> Did you read my reply?
"The C130 connector, the connector that is mounted at the
firewall that feeds the inside. (Its a 43 pin connector)"
There is a large cable going through the firewall near the brake
booster unit. It passes though the firewall via a large rubber
grommet. There is no connector there.
Regarding the ECM (electronic control module) I can't locate it.
According to the Haynes book, it's supposed to be "bolted to the left
side of the engine block - 1999 and later models".
(Why would they do something stupid like bolting an electronic module
directly to the block?)
The diagram shows a module with 2 bundles of cables coming from it.
The module seems to be attached to a large plate, and the plate is
bolted to the block. A fuel transfer pump is shown - it could be near
or in front of the ECM. I can find no such module or large plate
anywhere on the block (I looked under the engine too). What is the
left side? Is that the driver's side?
Tom Lawrence
> According to the Haynes book, it's supposed to be "bolted to the left
> side of the engine block - 1999 and later models".
That's referring to a diesel engine. You only have a PCM, which is on the
passenger-side firewall. I believe you already checked those connections.
MoPar Man
> > Regarding the ECM (electronic control module) I can't locate
> > it.
>
> is on the passenger-side firewall.
I was beginning to reach that conclusion as a result of searching for
references to the ECM on the web.
> I believe you already checked those (PCM) connections.
Several times.
Update:
I gave up trying to remove the dashboard cover. I did remove the
lower driver-side dash trim, the instrument-cluster trim ring, and
removed the instrument cluster. Removed the cluster PC board, no
dammaged components (looked brand new), noticed that a couple of LED's
weren't installed. Optional indicators I guess - one is labelled (on
the PC board) as "water / door" and the other one as "security". No
corresponding markings on the cluster bezel. For the hell of it, I
soldered a couple of LED's in those positions (along with the
necessary resistors). On the cluster display, they would show up
above the "check engine" light.
There is a massive connector under the dash that's clipped to a metal
bracket coming off the firewall. It's a combination of a large and
medium-sized connector. The large one has about 60 contact positions
(about 50 are used). Again, they're dry and no sign of corrosion. I
re-seated both of them. I believe it's the cable that comes from the
engine compartment through a hole in the firewall.
I did all this with the battery being disconnected (for about an hour
or two). After cleaning the various plastic surfaces and mounting the
cluster, I reconnected the battery, and again there's no change. When
switched to the run (ignition) position, the gauges seem to move to
their respective zero positions (battery to 8v, etc) and the odometer
will eventually display "no buS" and the overhead will display CCD. I
can, however, still start the engine (the tach reads zero).
I found the following:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showpost.php?p=932388&postcount=46
and thought that perhaps it might be relavent. I do have remote
lock/alarm/power seats and windows.
Specifically these symptoms:
- Engine Will Not Start (if equipped with Vehicle Theft Alarm)
- No Communication With The DRBIII (No Response from CTM)
- Essentially, all CTM controlled devices will not function if
the CTM locks-up.
There are 2 connectors to this CTM box which is mounted under the
dash. But even when it's unplugged, nothing changes.
MoPar Man
> > Regarding the ECM (electronic control module) I can't locate
> > it.
>
> is on the passenger-side firewall.
I was beginning to reach that conclusion as a result of searching for
Joe Brophy
wrote:
On my '99 Durango slt 5.9l 4x4 I would get the "no bus"
message in the trip odometer display when driving in stop
and go traffic on hot days. The culprit was the PCM. It
had developed a heat sensitive failure after about 30k
miles. It would also shut down the vehicle and would not
provide power to the coil until it had cooled off. Until I
replaced the pcm I would carry a five gallon can of water to
pour over it if and when it began to fail. I also did the
front airflow mods on the passenger side front to help
airflow in the pcm mounting area, as well as changing out
the thermostat for a 185 degree unit per mopar performance.
Allpar listed several cooling mods/changes like an improved
fan shroud and swapping the fan with one with more blades
from a viper but mine already had those from the factory.
Not any further failures since the pcm was replaced. A
friend who used to man the Daimler help desk told me the
cause of the pcm failure was hairline cracks caused from the
PC board in the pcm heating up and cooling down hundreds of
times eventually severing a circuit trace that would be fine
until it heated up and expanded causing the trace to open
slightly. The "no bus" error was generated because the pcm
had shut down, ceasing communication with any of the other
controllers in the vehicle, in this case the dash computer.
I would also get error codes in the high 9xx range from the
odometer readout. Hope this helps, good luck, Joe.
Nosey
> Under the hood, I discovered that the gasket/rubber weatherstripping
> that runs across the top of the firewall was completely off and laying
> across the back of the engine/air cleaner. It appears to only be a
> press-fit (no glue or contact cement).
This probably isn't a high priority on your list but the weatherstripping
can be tightened up by squeezing the weatherstrip channel with pliers. Don't
crimp it closed too tight or you won't be able to get it back on.
--
Ken
TBone
news:h6Pyg.4745$gF6....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> > Ok, this worked for me (2001 Dodge Ram short cab long box):
> >
> > 1. Ignition switch off
> > 2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
> > 3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
> > 4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word
> > CHEC appears in the display then release.
>
> Yes, but that's the procedure for the instrument cluster diagnostic check.
> While that may be helpful in diagnosing the 'CCD Bus' message, to display
> any engine-related OBD-II trouble codes, cycle the ignition switch
> OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, and one or more 'Pxxxx' codes will display on the
> odometer, culminating with 'Pdone' to indicate no more codes.
Does this make much sense to you Tom? IF he is getting a no buss message,
doesn't that indicate that the cluster is not talking to the computer or
vise-versa. I doubt that he will get anything this way. If he wants the
diag codes, I think that he will need to buy / borrow a code reader and
connect to the ODBII port directly.
>
> > When I turn on the ignition, all the guages move. Battery moves to 8
> > volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0, and even the fuel
> > guage moves a little (but not to the zero or E mark).
>
> 8 volts?!?! Let's first try a better battery that can provide the
> electronics with the proper voltage. No wonder nothing's working right.
> When the PCM is fed any less than 10.5 volts, strange things start to
occur.
That sounds like a possible bad ground or bad connection between the cluster
and the PCM sending bogus signals to the gauges.
--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
Tom Lawrence
> doesn't that indicate that the cluster is not talking to the computer or
> vise-versa.
Yeah - that was already discussed, later that same day, in fact.
MoPar Man
> Does this make much sense to you Tom? IF he is getting a no
> buss message, doesn't that indicate that the cluster is not
> talking to the computer or vise-versa. I doubt that he will
> get anything this way.
I get instrument cluster codes (by pressing the odo shaft when turning
the ignition to on), but not PCM codes (by the 3-times off-on with the
ignition key).
The cluster codes (if that's what they're called) were these:
900 920 921 940 950
Initially when this problem first appeared, the engine would turn over
but wouldn't start. Then after an evening just sitting there, the
problem completely went away for about a minute, during which time the
engine did start, the guages worked, and I was able to get the odo to
flash the (PCM?) codes using the 3-times off-on key sequence. Then
the guages died and the problem came back (no buS, CCD) except that
the engine now starts (but the guages still don't work).
I've been out of town for the past 2 days, during which time the truck
has been in the garage (and out of the rain), and the problem is still
there, but as mentioned above at least the engine now starts every
time I try it (meaning that the PCM is working?).
> If he wants the diag codes, I think that he will need to buy /
> borrow a code reader and connect to the ODBII port directly.
During the brief time the problem went away, the PCM (?) codes I was
getting were:
P0123 (Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage)
P1687 (P1687 Driver 5 Line 7)
Alternate descriptions of 1687:
No Cluster BUS Message No J1850 messages received from the
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC) module
No MIC BUS Message No CCD/J1850 messages received from the
Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC) module
No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster
module
The P0123 code I can understand - since I did disconnect the TP
connector to check for 5V at the connector - but I plugged it back in
so I guess the code needs to be cleared?
What exactly is the P1687 code?
> > > When I turn on the ignition, all the guages move. Battery
> > > moves to 8 volts, temp moves to 55, oil pressure moves to 0,
> > > and even the fuel guage moves a little (but not to the zero
> > > or E mark).
> >
> > 8 volts?!?! Let's first try a better battery ...
>
> That sounds like a possible bad ground or bad connection between
> the cluster and the PCM sending bogus signals to the gauges.
Since the cluster is housed in a plastic case that's screwed into a
plastic dashboard, the grounding must be part of the 2 cluster
connectors. Since I removed the cluster and re-installed it, (and the
connections looked great) I doubt there's any connector issue at the
cluster itself.
The Haynes book shows the circuits for the guages, but it doesn't show
ANY circuits for the electronics in the cluster. The guage circuits
don't seem to connect to any of the cluster electronics. If that were
true, then the computer wouldn't have any sort of connection to the
fuel gauge, in which case you wouldn't be able to read the fuel level
through the ODB port (is this the case?).
As I mentioned before, the battery is fine, and when the engine is
running, the voltage at the battery is 13.75.
Could the problem be located in the wiring bundle that enters the
lower portion of the fuse assembly in the engine compartment, or
perhaps some connection inside the fuse assembly?
The battery guage should at least read the battery voltage correctly.
Are the guages run off a separate power supply somewhere?
MoPar Man
TBone, Tom Lawrence, and Joe Brophy for the wealth of information and
the detailed answers to my technical questions about the Chrysler Data
Bus (tm)(C). My special thanks to Glen for giving me the encouragment
to continue diagnosing this problem in my own driveway.
To recap:
2001 Dodge ram, short cab, 5.2L, 2WD, all options.
Truck ran fine one day, was parked overnight, there was rain that day
and night, then the next morning engine would turn over but not
start. After 2 days and some poking around
(disconnecting/reconnecting various connectors) engine would start and
briefly the guages worked for about a minute, then went dead, but
engine could then be started at will after that.
When ignition is switched to on, odometer displays "no buS" and the
overhead console displays "CCD".
Not having a proper wiring diagram, I focused on the wiring to the
instrument cluster (MIC). There are 2 connectors (10 pins each) and
after identifying all the ground and power pins, there were about 6
pins that were candidates for being "the bus". One of those pins was
showing 40 ohms to ground, which I thought was strange.
I metered each of those 6 to the 3 connectors at the PCM and found
that only 2 of them did indeed go to the PCM. As I suspected from
examining much of the dashboard wiring, those wires are always a
twisted pair - indicative of some sort of differential signaling, and
I suspected they were indeed "the bus". One of those wires was the
one showing 40 ohms to ground, and now I see it's showing 40 ohms to a
third pin at the PCM (on a different connector).
Ok, so what I do next is this: with the 3 connectors at the PCM
already off, I disconnect as much of that cable as possible. That
basically means to disconnect it's opposite end from the main fuse
module beside the battery (it's a big square connector with a
hold-down bolt in the middle). Ok, I'm still reading 40 ohms - so
what's going on? Under the truck, I disconnect a cable going to the
transmission (it's got maybe 10 wires) and discover that one of those
wires is the one making a 40-ohm connection to one of the bus wires
(this is with all connectors still disconnected).
Ok, time to cut the main cable away from the firewall and remove all
the black tape and physically inspect the twisted-pair bus wires. I
do this all the way to the connector at the fuse module, and still get
40 ohms. The last thing is to take apart the square fuse-module
connector. I do this, and as I manipulate the outer cover, the 40-ohm
connection goes away. I manipulate the wires and manage to make the
40-ohm connection come and go.
I look closely at where the bus wires go inside this connector, and
where the mystery wire to the transmission goes, and it turns out
they're right beside each other. But what's really wierd is that
there's no indication that they're touching. No corrosion, no
chafing, no bared insulation. Very strange.
So I re-position the wires and close up and re-tape the connector,
then re-tape the entire main cable back to the PCM connectors, and
re-install all connectors and assemblies in the dash that I took
apart.
Needless to say, the MIC worked fine, and no PCM or MIC codes were
displayed when I tried the various diagnostic code reporting methods.
I'm thinking that this problem had nothing to do with the rain that
happened the night before this problem started, but I still don't know
why the engine wouldn't start during the early phase of this
situation.
I'm glad I did this, and not simply take it to the dealership and
maybe those monkeys wiggle something and the problem goes away only to
come back later. At least now I know where to look if it happens
again.
maxpower
"MoPar Man" <Mo...@Man.com> wrote in message
> First let me thank maxpower (aka Glenn Measley), miles, FMB, Nosey,
> TBone, Tom Lawrence, and Joe Brophy for the wealth of information and
> the detailed answers to my technical questions about the Chrysler Data
> Bus (tm)(C). My special thanks to Glen for giving me the encouragment
> to continue diagnosing this problem in my own driveway.
>
Gee thanks but I didnt encourage you to work on it!!, but im glad you got it
fixed. I still think it is rain related.
Also I wont to say that I am one of those so called " Monkeys at the dealer"
Let me know when you have another problem!!
Joe Brophy
wrote:
>First let me thank maxpower (aka Glenn Measley), miles, FMB, Nosey,
Impressive tracking of the wiring through the harness(s),
what you didn't say (if you are a mere mortal such as
myself) is the difficulty in following the factory diagrams
in the manual.
I know if I had not been in electronics field service and
thus some exposure to how multi page diagrams are organized
in general, and that a manufacturer usually has their own
"adaptation" of a wiring standard could have easily reached
the frustration level where I just took it to the dealer.
Congratulations on a long (and more difficult than you made
it sound, I would guess) trek to find the offending
component. I say that while also looking over my shoulder
in panic thinking that if you have not uncovered a "visible"
villain, there is a good chance it will return. I hope not,
maybe it was a miniscule wire fragment that fell out when
you unplugged a cable from a socket or something similar
that made the bug disappear. Even if you have it return,
judging by the level of detail in your post you will no
doubt get it sooner than later, again congrats.
regards, Joe
MoPar Man
> Impressive tracking of the wiring through the harness(s),
> what you didn't say (if you are a mere mortal such as
> myself) is the difficulty in following the factory diagrams
> in the manual.
A few months ago, when I was picking up some front sway bar bushings
for my 300m, I also wanted to get a service manual for it (Chiltons,
etc). I have yet to come across any such manual for the late model LH
cars. But I did find a Haynes manual for '94 to '01 Dodge Ram - so
for the hell of it I bought it.
I had no problem following the wiring diagram in the book, except that
it was way off the mark for my RAM. It must have been written for
when the RAM didn't have an electronic instrument cluster. I went
through all the diagrams and put together a picture of what the two
dashboard connectors must look like, and according to the haynes book
they'd each have to be 14 pins (instead of 10) so right off the bat I
knew something was wrong.
ksgp2
spd. 2 ton on purple wave auction.com out of manhattan kansas. so far the
bid is 550.00 looks to be a driver with not much rust. good floors and
rockers. ksgp2
"MoPar Man" <Mo...@Man.com> wrote in message
>
> What combination of switches or knobs do I push to get a listing of
> any error or fault codes for a 2001 Dodge ram (5.2 L / 318 V-8 with
> overhead information console) ?
>
> odometer, and is showing "CCD" on the overhead display where the fuel
thomas herron
You can jump the ads relay
--
for full context, visit http://www.motorsforum.com/dodge_trucks/how-to-display-error-fault-codes-2001-dodge-ram-18820-.htm
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<065b0505594b06f549...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to MoPar Man, thomas herron wrote:
>You can jump the ads relay
mrtroy...@gmail.com
> What combination of switches or knobs do I push to get a listing of
> any error or fault codes for a 2001 Dodge ram (5.2 L / 318 V-8 with
> overhead information console) ?
>
> It cranks fine but is not starting, is displaying "no bus" in the
> odometer, and is showing "CCD" on the overhead display where the fuel
> DTE and MPG readings should be. Fuel guage reads way below empty.
>
> It's got very low miles (about 20k) and spends most of it's time in a
> garage. Recently it spent a few days outside during very heavy rain.
>
> At first I thought someone stole gas out of the tank, but it seems I'm
> really just having an electrical connection problem.
>
> I want to go through the list on this page:
>
> http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32676
>
> But I need to get an error code first, hence my question about codes.
>
> Thanx.