Bleeding Brakes on 1977 Corvette
Andrew DeSantis
for eight years and do all the work myself. The brakes were making some
noise so I changed the front pads in 1997. One of the calipers gave up some
fluid, I forget which one. Last year the brake starting going virtually to
the flow although they were still stopping well. I changed out the rear pads
and no improvement. I saw some staining in a radial pattern on the inside of
the left front tire. I changed out the front caliper bled the brakes and
still no improvement. The long and short of it, is I now have changed the
master cylinder twice, put a used brake booster in, bled the system six ways
from Sunday (w/power bleeder from master cylinder, w/power bleeder from each
wheel cylinder, w/ vacuum bleeder from each cylinder, w/the foot pedal), I
removed the proportioning valve and checked its operation with the power
bleeder and now I about to install a new brake booster and probably a right
front caliper. I had found the brakes difficult to bleed in my 76 Vette and
never quite good the brakes to the way I like them. Does any one of a sure
fired method of bleeding a Vette's brakes? How about a good method for
testing for air entry into the system? Thanks for any responses and help.
Andy
zamiel
suck in that the get pitted and begin to leak or freeze, etc. Your best bet
it to get a rebuilt set (4) calipers from Stainless Steel Brakes. And
replace the lines with braided stainless steel. The best way to bleed the
brakes I find, is to take aquarium pcv tubing and attach one end to the
bleeder and the other end into a jar with a small amount of brake fluid.
This way when you pump the brakes it will remove all of the air an only suck
up brake fluid. Very easy one man project. I just did my brakes overhaul
this way and it rocked. Make sure that you flush out all of the lines before
putting the calipers on. If you dont have a pressure bleeder, then used the
method above. I does take awhile but it is a great leg excersie.
Andrew DeSantis wrote in message <7bjjh9$o...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...
Scott
To make sure you have all the air out of the system, you'll want to bleed the
system in the following order Left Rear, Right Rear, Right Front, Left Front.
Make sure you keep the master cylinder reseviors at least 1/2 full to prevent
air from entering the system. I've always used the 2-person method of bleeding
the brakes. (i.e. open bleeder, push brake pedal slowly to floor, close
bleeder, lift foot off of brake pedal).
The only other thing that would give you a spongy pedal would be the rubber
brake lines leading to the caliper. They can expand can cause a spongy pedal.
Good Luck and let us know what happens
Scott
zamiel
Scott wrote in message <36DD8291...@gate.net>...
>Sounds frustrating.
>
>To make sure you have all the air out of the system, you'll want to bleed
the
>system in the following order Left Rear, Right Rear, Right Front, Left
Front.
Great comment which I forgot, starting with the furthest caliper from the
master cylinder and work toward the closest.
>Make sure you keep the master cylinder reseviors at least 1/2 full to
prevent
>air from entering the system. I've always used the 2-person method of
bleeding
>the brakes. (i.e. open bleeder, push brake pedal slowly to floor, close
>bleeder, lift foot off of brake pedal).
>
Try my method some time, its much easier.
Take it easy
J. T. Spilman
net by Hib Halverson. It appears to be relevant to your request. Hib writes
for several car magazines and I would trust his expertise on bleeding C-3
brakes.
I hope this information helps you.
> Would someone review the sequence for brake bleeding ? Longest line first
?
Jack up the back, pull of the rear tires then, bleed the master first, if
necessary, then do RR, RL, RF, LF. Remember, each rear has two bleeders.
cYa
Hib Halverson
Andrew DeSantis <andyde...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:7bjjh9$o...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net...
Bob Finkelsen
cylinder and all the rubber hoses. The brake are the most important part of
the car, so why take a chance. I found that the power bleeder did not work
well, the peddle was always spongy. The old fastion way with a helper
pushing the brake peddle on command works best. I don't know any way to test
for air, but if there is air in the system the brakes will be spongy, Air
will compress. Old rubber hosts will expand and do some funny things. These
are the hoses that goes to the caliper from the frame.
Good luck,
Andrew DeSantis wrote in message <7bjjh9$o...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...
GLIPSS
>>I am having trouble with the brakes on my 77 w/L48&A/T, I have had the car
>>for eight years and do all the work myself. The brakes were making some
>>noise so I changed the front pads in 1997. One of the calipers gave up some
>>fluid, I forget which one. Last year the brake starting going virtually to
>>the flow although they were still stopping well. I changed out the rear
>pads
>>and no improvement. I saw some staining in a radial pattern on the inside
>of
>>the left front tire. I changed out the front caliper bled the brakes and
>>still no improvement. The long and short of it, is I now have changed the
>>master cylinder twice, put a used brake booster in, bled the system six
>ways
>>from Sunday (w/power bleeder from master cylinder, w/power bleeder from
>each
>>wheel cylinder, w/ vacuum bleeder from each cylinder, w/the foot pedal), I
>>removed the proportioning valve and checked its operation with the power
>>bleeder and now I about to install a new brake booster and probably a right
>>front caliper. I had found the brakes difficult to bleed in my 76 Vette and
>>never quite good the brakes to the way I like them. Does any one of a sure
>>fired method of bleeding a Vette's brakes? How about a good method for
>>testing for air entry into the system? Thanks for any responses and help.
>>Andy
>>
I think I can help you. Fisrt thing is to either
buy 4 brake hose clamps or vise gripes. Clamp off each brake hose off at each
wheel so no brake fluid can get to the wheels. With all clamped if you still
have a pedal problem you either have air in the master or a defective master.
If after clamping you have a very high pedal the problem is at one of the
wheels. Pump the pedal and hold it, have someone remove the clamps or vise
grips for the hoses one at a time.The largest drop will tell you waht wheel has
a problem. IT will be either to much mechanical movement of the calipers and
pads or trapped air. When your bleeding make sure you are bleeding the upper
bleeder and try tapping the caliper when bleeding to jar trapped air. Hope this
helps
Brad
Corpse
>
> HI Andy
> I think I can help you. Fisrt thing is to either
> buy 4 brake hose clamps or vise gripes. Clamp off each brake hose off at each
> wheel so no brake fluid can get to the wheels.
Wow, cool idea! wish I knew it last summer!
--
~~~
/ \
)X X(
(_ ^ _)
|||||
\___/ ...CORPSE
Better to reign in Hell
Than serve in Heaven...
Remove **non-spam** from my address when replying