What to beware of 82-92 Camaro?
Todd
Folks, what are the classic parts that fail on these Camaros and Firebirds? What should I keep an eye out
for as I'm buying a Camaro or Firebird?
Also, how big a difference is there, performance-wise, between the stock 305ci and 350ci V8s? I would
thank there would only be a mile or two difference in mileage.
Is there any real advantage in fuel injection for an everyday driver? (I won't be racing it.)
Any advice is really appreciated :)
--
Todd
phisk
Todd, a 350 will give you a bit more potential if you change your mind to
mod it later. As far as FI over carburation, it's a little more efficient at
times, much easier to tune (as in almost never. <G>), and starts easier in
cold weather.
Now, what to look for. My sister got an '87 in 1990. It had a freeze-out
plug problem, but that was 11 years ago. <G> My best advice is to take it to
a mechanic/friend that you trust to have him/her give it a once-over to see
if anything turns up...
Good luck.
Bill
"Todd" <spammen...@home.com> wrote in message
news:e6EO6.26556$Ub.3...@news1.rdc1.ab.home.com...
SBCA96
you want a trouble free car then buy 88 and NEWER F-bodies. In 88 they beefed
up the 700R4 and made it into a great transmission, they also dumped the
troubled MAF system for a more stable speed density prom setup, the wat to tell
is the lack of the huge MAF sensor inline of the intake hose between airfilter
and throttle body.
Advice .. add subframe connectors .. it will cut down on rattles and they only
cost about 100 bucks
If you find and early car you like .. replace the trans with a later 700 and
get the SDP kit to get rid of your MAF system.
Also .. DONT slam the rear hatch ... the housing for the latch motor is
PLASTIC .. you dont want to buy a new one!!
Tom
Da Man
"SBCA96" <sbc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010522224204...@ng-fm1.aol.com...
> 88 and OLDER F-bodies have problems with the Transmissions and MAF
sensors. IF
> you want a trouble free car then buy 88 and NEWER F-bodies. In 88 they
beefed
> up the 700R4 and made it into a great transmission, they also dumped the
> troubled MAF system for a more stable speed density prom setup, the wat to
tell
> is the lack of the huge MAF sensor inline of the intake hose between
airfilter
> and throttle body.
>
> Advice .. add subframe connectors .. it will cut down on rattles and they
only
> cost about 100 bucks
>
> If you find and early car you like .. replace the trans with a later 700
and
> get the SDP kit to get rid of your MAF system.
The MAF's are a problem, as they do break down, but I would not bother
changing it, as they are now only like $100 to $150 CND. My car is on it's
third one, with almost 200,000 km. I don't think that it requires
replacement, as it would probally cost more to replace the system then a
sensor or two would cost. Also, do any mods that affect airflow throught the
motor, and the speed density system (AKA, MAP, sensor) gets thrown out of
wack, unlike the MAF setup.
>
> Also .. DONT slam the rear hatch ... the housing for the latch motor is
> PLASTIC .. you dont want to buy a new one!!
The older ones were steel. If it has a pull down motor, be carful, but the
parts only cost a few $$ to fix it, but it's just the hassel of taking it
apart to change the plastic gear that strips.
>
> Tom
Todd
motor, and the speed density system (AKA, MAP, sensor) gets thrown out of
>wack, unlike the MAF setup.
Are you saying that a K and N filter, or headers, or larger diameter tailpipes are going to cause problems?
--
Todd
c4
usally a cam swap keep the lobe center line above 112 and they'll be no
problems
"Todd" <spammen...@home.com> wrote in message
news:nQIO6.27798$Ub.3...@news1.rdc1.ab.home.com...
CBHVAC
50% more dirt to enter the engine...
Headers..might **possibly** trip an O2 code..but thats rare..
Larger diameter pipe...will cause a loss of lower end torque..
"Todd" <spammen...@home.com> wrote in message
news:nQIO6.27798$Ub.3...@news1.rdc1.ab.home.com...
c4
sell paper elements anywhere the reusability of a k&n is a life saver. Even
the chevy dealers here cant get the filter
"CBHVAC" <in...@carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote in message
news:%oQO6.2155$Ka.6...@eagle.america.net...
B2723m
Chiming in on original subject...transmission mounts and rear hatch motors seem
to be the most common problems. Heater cores, A/C fan control units, radiators
and EGR valves are some non F-body specific problems that come up due to age.
The above is assuming an essentially un modified car.
If you're planning on drastic mods or engine swaps (big blocks fit) the carb'd
cars are easiest and TBI cars are the most difficult to get *big* power from.
The 7.5" diff. also becomes questionable.
re: what CBHVAC mentioned about headers is correct, big tubes will drop
velocity and hurt torque at RPM below 4000 or so. I don't think that most
aftermarket, street legal systems, fall into this range. Also, IMHO, K&N
filters don't flow better than a *clean* paper element and if cleaned/oiled
with a Filtercharger kit every 10k miles will filter just as well.
Brad
Da Man
> filters don't flow better than a *clean* paper element and if
cleaned/oiled
> with a Filtercharger kit every 10k miles will filter just as well.
>
K&N even admitted to this. A paper element that's clean flows almost as
well, and the K&N allows some dirt through. I think it's a waste of money,
that hurts the engine. Think of how many paper filters could be bought for
the intial cost of the K&N, plus the oil and cleaners for it.
KITT
Overdrive was starting to slip, everything else was great, ANd I was running
it really rough. And mine is an 85. And I dont know about the hatch
thing... I have had several people slam my trunk and I mean SLAM it, and
there has been no problems.
--
Well cth ya ltr
-KITT
1985 Blue Camaro 2.8L V-6
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Da Man
Jeff
"KITT" <Defe...@itol.com> wrote in message news:3b0c8f1a_2@newsfeeds...
KITT
you're right I dont.
B.P. - iSpelunker.com
The v8's came with a wide variety of induction outputting hp from a range of
140hp for an early carbed 305 to 235 hp for a tpi 350. Fuel injection is
much more efficient than a carb, they also tend to need less maintenance
(although when they do, they cost more to repair).
Performance betweent he top tpi 305 and the top tpi 350 varies because the
350 could only be had with an automatic tranny however if you can find a tpi
350 car for a decent price, that is probably your best bet.
All third gens will have some unexplained rattles, but as someone already
suggested, subframe connectors will reduce this. In 1992 Chevy got most of
the rattles out.
If you get a t-top car, have the underbody thoroughly checked and pull up
the carpet if you can. Some t-tops leak and after 10-15 years of leaking,
floor pans tend to rot out.
B.P.
mediaone
my 95 Formula I noticed squat. I had done an oil change and added the filter
and the only thing the car did when I started it up is it wentto a slightly
higher idle for a split second after, start-up. Sort of like it was taking a
deap breath,But I still noticed nothing when it comes to hspwr. And as far as
the part about letting dirt through, My best friend put a k&n on his Bronco
and about a year later went to clean it, now this kid takes his bronco
off-road quite often>>>anyway when he got the air box open we found the inside
of the airbox and the duct work all the way up to the throttle body was
plastered with mud and we even found small pebbles in there (dont know how
those got there) I suppose yhe should have cleaned it earlier but if I drove a
truck offrod it certainly wouldnt get a k&n.
CBHVAC
--
www.carolinabreezehvac.com
"mediaone" <kde...@mediaone.net> wrote in message
news:3B0FEC07...@mediaone.net...
Chris Blandino
stick with a TPI V8 car. The automatic is probably less troublesome, but
only after 86 (pre 86 700R4's were problematic). A formula Firebird might
be a little cheaper, but the 350 TPI Formulas are a bit more rare.
Later,
Chris
"B.P. - iSpelunker.com" <no_spa...@ispelunker.com> wrote in message
news:Z_MP6.33810$BN6.1...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
B.P. - iSpelunker.com
on
> my 95 Formula I noticed squat. I had done an oil change and added the
filter
> and the only thing the car did when I started it up is it wentto a
slightly
> higher idle for a split second after, start-up. Sort of like it was taking
a
> deap breath,But I still noticed nothing when it comes to hspwr. And as far
as
> the part about letting dirt through, My best friend put a k&n on his
Bronco
> and about a year later went to clean it, now this kid takes his bronco
> off-road quite often>>>anyway when he got the air box open we found the
inside
> of the airbox and the duct work all the way up to the throttle body was
> plastered with mud and we even found small pebbles in there (dont know how
> those got there) I suppose yhe should have cleaned it earlier but if I
drove a
> truck offrod it certainly wouldnt get a k&n.
Chances are you will not notice any hp increase as the K&N will slightly
increase HP, but will not affect torque. furthermore, IIRC the 95 Formula
is a speed density car, if so, the extra airflow will have minimal impact
versus a mass airflow car. On a third gen MAF Mustang, there is a
noticeable improvement as the engine will respond better to increased
airflow
The two things which make a k&n filter desireable for almost any application
is it's longer life (unless you want to change paper filters every 3000
miles) and that the design decreases air turbulance going through the filter
and will give a slightly higher top speed capability.
Some k&n filters come with a grease to improve sealing in the airbox/cleaner
and if this is not used, dirt and other crap can be sucked in from around
the filter, the same will happen with any filter though.
Is the $40 bucks worth it, it depends upon what the individual needs and
what the car needs. To say "always use a k&n" or "never use a k&n" is
silly.
B.P.
Todd
I managed to pick up an 86 Rally Sport, more or less loaded, with a 305 and 4 barrel and overdrive automatic.
The engine was recently transplanted with a used one that pulls quite hard ;)
It has a bit of rocker panel rust but I'm hoping it won't cost an arm and a leg to fix.
Interior is as good as to be expected for a 15 year old car. Sure is fun to drive!
--
Todd
SBCA96
.. and even with the new MAF .. you still get trouble codes .. and the MAF can
get a bad MAF code with a new MAF ...
MAF MAF MAF MAF ..
Tom
AG
little bird at the GM factory told me to put the PROM from a 'Vette into it.
That was the last one I ever installed. It doesn't stall when hot anymore
either...
FWIW...YMMV
AG - Original, (except for the PROM) Tires-n-all, 1985 Tuned Port Fuel
Injection Red IROC-Z <17,000 miles...
"SBCA96" <sbc...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Da Man
covered up by a differnt calibration setting.
"AG" <secre...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pWOQ6.476$aG6....@news.shore.net...
AG
kept the old PROM just in case I needed waranty work or the emissions
failed, but I've never had to put it back. I don't know if GM modified the
PROM since then. To the best of my knowledge, mine was one of the first
100,000 tuned ports on the road. They were VERY hard to get at first. I
ordered mine and waited 6 months for delivery. It was worth it though. At
the time, it would beat the 'vette which still had that silly "throttle body
FI". 0-60 in about 5.5 seconds...
Oops I'm rambling.
The technical reason, I was told, is that the MAF has a coil in it like a
light bulb. Voltage applied to the coil makes it hot. Ail flowing over the
coil colls it back down. The resulting change in resistance allows the
computer to figure out the quantity and density of the air entering the
engine. The proble wiht the original Camaro PROM is that it keeps the
current on the wire too long and burns it up. I've never looked this up to
verify it, but it sounded good to me and the results were what I was looking
for so, I didn't really care if it was true.
>>and even with the new MAF .. you still get trouble codes <<
Did you reset the computer after you replaced the bad MAF? I forgot to do
that once and was so frustrated that it failed on the test drive that I
bought another MAF before I figured out what I had done...oops.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original, Tires-n-all(Except for the PROM), 1985 IROC-Z, Red, TPFI < 17kmi
KHanawalt
>little bird at the GM factory told me to put the PROM from a 'Vette into it.
>That was the last one I ever installed.
So, you had to replace the MAFs because they were shot? My MAF is okay, but I
get a low MAF trouble code at idle if the throttle is set according to specs
(400 RPM with IAC shut and unplugged.)
So I have to set my idle with the throttle plate screw. But then when I have
the A/C on and in gear, it sets the code again. If I set it up high enough to
avoid setting the code (light comes on and stays on until restarted) then it
idles to fast with the A/C off. In neutral it idles about 900 then.
I do have an intermittent miss that's probably a result of the 140K on it. I
put used injectors in it (found them on ebay) and that fixed a bad injector
problem. Runs fine other than that. I don't suppose a Vette PROM would fix my
problem?
KennyH
To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid.
AG
'vette PROM raised my idle speed just a touch as well. Did I mention that I
get another 1 MPG and it seems (SEEEEMS) to have more power? In case anyone
is thinking of doing this, the prom I have is for an 86-87 (My memory of the
mid 80's is a little fuzzy) 'vette with the same engine setup as my Camaro.
305cid Tuned port FI w/AC. I don't think you can use just ANY 'vette PROM.
I've also heard that the 3rd party performance PROMs do much the same thing.
I've tried to keep this car stock, but it needed to be drivable too, so I
used what I though of as a compromise. At least it's a GM PROM.
"KHanawalt" <khan...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Da Man
EPROM/FLASH burner.
"AG" <secre...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:%X6R6.10$cN....@news.shore.net...
AG
want to spend their free time making an EPROM blaster? Especially if you
are only going to use it once or twice? <G>
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original, Tires-n-all(Except for the PROM), 1985 IROC-Z, Red < 17kmi
"Da Man" <levy...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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