camshaft install???
Joe Rabor
ponies naturally aspirated. I hear a new camshaft and rockers are the way
to go. Can anyone recommend a few and their results? How difficult is the
install?
Joe
Mods: HPP+, SLP Loudmouth, 4:10's, TBC!, MTI cold air, Airfoil, STB,
Eibachs, B&M Ripper, 275/40/17, ZR-1 style rims, Wings West spoiler,
WickedSS
If you are going to stick with the stock heads, then you are very limited
to camshafts... Here is one that I know will work with stock heads, to
give you 30 extra HP or so...
Crane Cams 104227
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy40.htm
That is a great cam for stock heads, and Ed Wright can really tune for
that.
Also, you will need to have the PCM reflashed for a new camshaft.
If you went with heads AND a cam, there are about a million different
options out there... one would be to do the HOT LT4 conversion, with the
LT4 heads, intake and LT4 HOT cam.. MorePerformance was able to get 429 HP
out of that combination...
http://www.moreperformanceinc.com
They have several pretty good head and camshaft packages as well.
WickedSS
Daboyz
DB1
Daboyz
that
make them for LT1 motors. Tell them what you want as far as power, drive
ability, ect. There are many different factors to consider when making a
cam selection. Will it be a daily driver? How much power do you want? Do
you care about gam mileage? Will you be adding any other mods?
Figure out what you want your car to do or be before deciding on a cam.
I did a lot of research when deciding what cam to put into my car. I
wanted something aggressive, but still a daily driver. I use the LT4
Hotcam in mine. I am very pleased with it. My car is an auto and it is
still a daily driver with this cam, many bolt-ons, and ported heads. Two
of my friends also use this cam in their 6 speed cars. One has ported
heads, the other does not. Each of these are also daily drivers. The one
with ported heads puts out 390 rwhp. The one with stock heads puts out
330 rwhp. I put out 415 rwhp. So depending on other mods, even with the
same cam you can get different result.
WickedSS
ARGH! I cannot believe that I forgot one of the BEST heads and camshaft
packages out there... go to
http://www.agostino-racing.com
Extremely good stuff...
WickedSS
WickedSS
> 429 flywheel, right?
>
> DB1
Yeah... 429 HP at the flywheel...
WickedSS
Chris
Daboyz
DB1
Daboyz
LT1 motor along with the heads and cam combo to get this 415 hp and 385
tq to the rear wheels. I didn't want to mislead you into thinking that
was just heads and cam. 6 Speed cars generally put more out to the rear
wheels. The reason mine puts out so much is that I carefully researched
cam, head, and header combos very carefully before making a decision.
I have also had the opportunity to dyno test almost every mod I have
added to the car. It was interesting to fine out what really did make
power, what didn't make power, and what may have made more or less than
expected.
Good luck with the cam selection.
DB1
Chris
headers would take me up to around 400hp at the rear wheels. But it sounds
like you're saying that thats just not possible. What mods would I need to
do to take me to about 420hp at the rear wheels? How much am I looking at
spending? I thought this could all be done for around $3000 CAD.
"Daboyz" <now...@here.com> wrote in message
news:3CCF46C5...@here.com...
WickedSS
This is what I had to do:
Larger throttle body (58MM)
Larger Injectors (36#)
Agostino Stage II upper end kit (heads, cam, intake)
Long Tube Headers
MSD 6A
Good plugs and wires (I used Taylors... Iknow, could have done better)
One heck of a good PCM tuning...
WickedSS
Daboyz
420 rwhp in a 6 speed car. It is harder to get that out of an auto. The
smallest cam I have ever seen in an LT1 6 speed with over 400rwhp was
the
Comp cams 306. This cam is bigger(more aggressive) than the LT4 Hot cam.
The car dynoed 410 rwhp. It could be done with the LT4 Hot cam but you
would need lots of bolt-ons.
To get over 400rwhp you will need a very aggressive cam if you don't
throw everything on the car such as after market y-pipe, cat back, cold
air, bigger TB, electric water pump, ect. You may be sacrificing drive
ability going too big though.
I think it will cost you more than $3000 though. I spent $1700 just
porting the heads, but I had them done at GTP and they are a stage 3
setup, which is way more than my cam will ever utilize. The Hot cam kit
was $450, headers were $550, then you have the cost of gaskets, all new
fluids, installation costs(unless you do it yourself). This is just a
short list no including anything else you do such as full exhaust,
intake, ect.
You will realize more power from each mod as you do more to the car. It
can get expensive fast. The power you are looking for is more than most
LT1s are running. There are lots of guys with over 400 Fly wheel horse
power, but very fe with over 400 Rear wheel horse power that do not have
a power adder such as NOS or a supercharger.
DB1
Chris
12's or even high 11's if possible, but I figure I will need around 400+
rwhp to do so, especially with the 273 gears that came with the 94 auto. I
also need driveability to be great, as this car is my daily driver, and
living up in Toronto, our winters can be a pain in the ass. So is this dream
of mine completely unrealistic considering my circumstances? Or can it be
done in your opinion?
"Daboyz" <now...@here.com> wrote in message
news:3CD08DE5...@here.com...
Daboyz
11s in my 1996 WS6 TA auto. I have the set up I mentioned in my previous
post
along with 3:73 gears. I spent a good deal of money and time to get
there too. You would need a new rear since 3:73s will not fit in your
carrier, tires, higher stall converter, suspension...lots of extras that
equal lots of money. You will never get there with your 2:73s. Since
winters are tough where you live, it is not a good idea to have a high
horse power car that will turn sideways every time you give it gas. I
would not recommend this to you in your present situation.
It would be better to get another vehicle for the winters if you could
afford it and then start on the Z28 project. From experience, I can tell
you it take a lot to get 400rwhp out of a naturally aspirated LT1 with
an auto tranny.
DB1
Daboyz
don't mind me asking?
DB1
WickedSS
Not unrealistic at all, go with a 227 camshaft or a LT4 HOT cam and NOS...
you keep the drivability, and you get low 12's, high 11's... You will
probably get more HP out of a 50 shot than 50 HP... as N2O has a HUGE
cooling effect on the inlet charge, and can be programmed to inject more
fule into the cooler, denser, more oxygen rich charge.
WickedSS
WickedSS
> Hey man, what do you put out to the rear in your SS if you
> don't mind me asking?
I knew I would be called out on this! I would love to tell you, but
haven't been dynoed yet, and have not been to the track yet... I could
give you the "estimated" HP of the engine, but that would probably not be
accurate, and I am still tuning...
I will be going to the track in 2 weeks (still working on the tune of the
PCM), and I will have a better idea then... but guessing, I might be just
shy of 400 rwhp..
Again, just a guess...
WickedSS
KITT
stuff to his engine and car that he is now pulling over 620hp. The car
looks great! Didn't get to see it in action, but maybe some day. :)
Well catch ya later
-KITT
1985 Blue Camaro 2.8L MFI
***Have you ever wanted to beat someone half to death... twice?***
Chris
He runs 10's easily, but he had to invest $85,000 CAD to get his car to that
point :)
"KITT" <Nem...@Uwplatt.edu> wrote in message
news:aaq760$14g6$1...@wiscnews.wiscnet.net...
Daboyz
Are you doing the program yourself? I bet you will be in the
neighborhood of 400 with what you have in the car. Good luck at
the track and be gentle on your tranny;)
DB1
Daboyz
reduction, my favorite mod! Well, anyway if you go with NOS as WickedSS
suggested you could get into the low 12 sec range but if this is your
only car I would not put NOS on it. All you have to do is screw up once
and your car will be parked.
I cracked a piston running a 100 shot! A 100 shot on an LT1 is nothing,
but our pistons are known to be a week link in our motors. I ran it
safely for quite a while and still do not know why it just decided to
go. With this shot the car put out 550 Rear wheel torque. I am guessing
I could have gone high 10s with a slick and converter.
DB1
KITT
from a different car.. and the rest he did himself.. said it was pretty
cheap... for him... so who knows what that would be to us.
--
Well catch ya later
-KITT
1985 Blue Camaro 2.8L MFI
***Have you ever wanted to beat someone half to death... twice?***
"Chris" <z284...@NOSPAMrogers.com> wrote in message
news:e62A8.70271$Il1....@news02.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
WickedSS
> So the install went without incident? You got that together fast.
> Are you doing the program yourself? I bet you will be in the
> neighborhood of 400 with what you have in the car. Good luck at
> the track and be gentle on your tranny;)
I wouldn't say it went together without incendent, but it went together!
Seems to be running pretty good...
Yeah, I am attempting to do the PCM tuning myself. I had a friend get me
close (just enough so i wouldn't burn up anything), and I have been
working from there with baby steps! Although I understnad how everything
works, it is a tad overwhelming when actually faced with all the tables
and values!!
One thing I will be working on though is a program that will read in my
AutoTap log files, and help adjust the PE tables fromt he O2 values. I
know it isn't the best way to tune the car, but dyno time is so expensive,
especailly when I don't know what I am doing!! They have somethig like
that for OBDI called VE Master, but nothing for OBDII... so I will be
working on the OBDII version... hopefully.
I had the tranny rebuilt 6 months ago... I hope it will at least last for
the rest of the season, then in goes the TH400 with Gear Vender overdrive!
;)
WickedSS
WickedSS
On Wed, 1 May 2002, Daboyz wrote:
> The faster you want to go, the lighter your wallet gets...ah weight
> reduction, my favorite mod! Well, anyway if you go with NOS as WickedSS
> suggested you could get into the low 12 sec range but if this is your
> only car I would not put NOS on it. All you have to do is screw up once
> and your car will be parked.
> I cracked a piston running a 100 shot! A 100 shot on an LT1 is nothing,
> but our pistons are known to be a week link in our motors. I ran it
> safely for quite a while and still do not know why it just decided to
> go. With this shot the car put out 550 Rear wheel torque. I am guessing
> I could have gone high 10s with a slick and converter.
Yeah, I don't think I would run N2O on a car that was my only car... that
would be hard... of course, I don't think that I would want to have a 400
rwhp car that was my only car as well! I had trouble before getting up
steep hills on WET pavement from a dead stop!
Speaking of N2O horror stories, somebody running 100 shot of N2O on a
relatively stock LT1 broke a connecting rod at the track... YIKES!!
Didn't know of that was typical of the LT1!! I knew the pistons were a
weak point...
WickedSS
Mrrjjdh03
>12's or even high 11's if possible, but
when i had mine, it went 12.24 @ 113.90 with this stuff:
K&N FIPK
MALLORY HYFIRE IV ignition box
1.5 full roller rockers
B&M electronic shift button
FLOWTECH terminator muffler only
NOS 5177 125hp kit
13.60 without the n2o
car was an auto with 2.73 gears (no typo)
and on 225/60-16 performance radial tires (no drag radials or slicks)
moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org
Mrrjjdh03
i did. 12.24 @ 113.90 on n2o no drag radials or slicks either. and it was an
auto
moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org
Daboyz
13's bone stock.
DB1
Daboyz
much easier and cheaper to get lower times with NOS, but you never know
what could break. It would not be a good idea for him since it is his
only means of transportation.
DB1
Daboyz
The ignition didn't add any power, it just smoothed out your your power
curve. 1.5 rockers is what comes stock on an LT1, so it was not worth
any power. The shift button, is that with a shift kit? Even so, worth
maybe a tenth. The muffler along with the FIPK is worth about 7-9rwhp.
An average LT1 auto will dyno 250-255. With your setup, best case
scenario is 264 rwhp. A 13.6 is crazy fast for a car with only 264 rwhp
and 2.73 gears. Most 1998-2000 LS1s dyno right around 300 rwhp and with
3.23 gears will hit 13.6 with a very good launch if they are lucky.
We drag an Ennis; Texas Motorplex. Cars here generally get pretty
decent times. 13.6 is a good time for an above mentioned LS1. I don't
know how you pulled off that time, and then a 12.2 with no soft tire and
just a 125 shot. That is pretty incredible considering a new Dodge Viper
runs a 12.2 1/4 mile at 116 with a 1.9 60 ft time. With street tires,
you will never pull off a 1.9 60 ft time. The Viper also weighs about
450lbs less than your car. Even with the 125 shot of NOS on your car,
the Viper still has about 25 more rwhp, and that is if you are getting
the full 125 hp the shot is capable of putting out.
Ok, tell us your secret.
Mrrjjdh03
>1.5 rockers is what comes stock on an LT1, so it was not worth
>any power
they were full roller rockers. the car went from 12.34 to 12.24. the rockers
were only $75 to me.
>The shift button, is that with a shift kit?
no it's separate. it is a product from b/m. you wire it to the trans harness.
it boosts line pressure. it has 2 settings. pontiacs came with it. my '94
formula had the 'performance shift' button in the console.
>13.6 is crazy fast for a car with only 264 rwhp
>and 2.73 gears.
why is that? completely stock with a k/n replacement filter went 13.98.
consistent 14.00's. now on the flip side, my '94 formula ( i had it at the same
time. the wife's) was identical. lt1, auto, 2.73 gears. it went a best of 14.40
go figure.
> Most 1998-2000 LS1s dyno right around 300 rwhp and with
>3.23 gears will hit 13.6 with a very good launch if they are lucky.
i see them doing 13.4's here in florida.
> That is pretty incredible
thank you.
> Ok, tell us your secret.
got a good car to start with
> With street tires,
>you will never pull off a 1.9 60 ft time.
nope i did 2.1 60ft times in the '94. now in my current '86 TA i just did a
1.964 on dayton daytona 225/60-15 radials.
>The ignition didn't add any power, it just smoothed out your your power
>curve.
you are correct. the reason i put it on is without it, on n2o it went 13.30.
stock ignition can't hold up to n2o. added the ignition and 12.34
moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org
Daboyz
problem running it with nOS. You got a full second with an aftermarket
ignition? I've never heard of that before. I've seen about 14 rwhp on a
dyno of a car that ran NOS with stock and then after market ignition.
Even in Florida where you are at sea level that is still a crazy
time.
DB1
Mrrjjdh03
>ignition? I've never heard of that before. I've seen about 14 rwhp on a
>dyno of a car that ran NOS with stock and then after market ignition.
well then maybe the stock coil was too weak in it's old age.90k.i thought it
was weird that it couldn't handle it.
moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org
Daboyz
DB1