Stall problem in 89 E32 (735i)

[Craigs]

My 1989 735i with 51,000 miles has a stall problem. When
coming to a complete stop, while the car is idling it cuts
out. It does not completely stall so that I have to restart
but misses a beat enough that some light come on. This may
last 1/2 second and is very annoying. I just return from
the dealer who says that the car is running great and they
could find no problem. They did observe the problem twice
but cold not make a diagnosis and told me it is somewhere
in the engine control module, though all sensors are
normal. The car has an automatic transmission by the way.
Any ideas? would an aftermarket performance chip from Dinan
or other company change the setting enough so that this
does not happen?

would appreciate any help with this problem.

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[malco...@my-deja.com]

<Snip>
Craigs,
Well the shop would say that! Daft as it may sound, check all the air
hoses on the inlet side of the car, you may have a small leak
downstream of the air flow meter. I once had an old Jag XJ6 with a
similar problem and traced it, eventually, to a leaking inlet manifold
casket
Hope this helps,
Malc
Scotland

>

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Before you buy.

[Igor]

I cured a similar problem on 535 with carefully cleaning the idle control
valve. It had lots of soot and dirt. After that the idle has been quite
fine.

malco...@my-deja.com пишет в сообщении <86p1pm$snm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com> ...

[Craigs]

thanks guys, I will try both!

[Brian Bodick]

If cleaning the ICV doesn't solve it you want to check the air flow meter
and O2 sensor using an ohm meter. If all ok, the it's your EEC module.
Happened to me on my 88 528e, dealer replaced the ~$800 computer under used
car warranty after they couldn't fix my stalling problem by any other means.

-Brian

Craigs <spin34N...@aol.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:0541a2f0...@usw-ex0109-070.remarq.com...

[Don Eilenberger]

In article <%T7k4.716$yM3....@typhoon.snet.net>, "Brian Bodick" <bbo...@snet.net> wrote:
>If cleaning the ICV doesn't solve it you want to check the air flow meter
>and O2 sensor using an ohm meter. If all ok, the it's your EEC module.
>Happened to me on my 88 528e, dealer replaced the ~$800 computer under used
>car warranty after they couldn't fix my stalling problem by any other means.
>
>-Brian

Before spending $800 for an ECU (they are actually available used from lots
of junkyards for about $300).. you may want to:

1. Adjust plugs towards a wider gap - try 0.032"
2. Adjust valves with a wider gap - add 0.002" to the gap
3. Run a few jars of Techron through the fuel system
4. Replace the fuel filter

There is no accurate way of testing the AFM or the O2 sensor using an ohm
meter. The AFM is a stepped bridge device which needs a voltage across it
to determine if it is working OK (and they very very rarely fail) and you
measure the voltage output, not the resistance (which is all you can
measure with an ohmmeter).. the 02 sensor puts out a voltage - not a
resistance, so again, you need a voltmeter to test it. Digital ones
generally are not very good for this - you really want a
high-input-impedence analog one (and old RCA Senior Volt-Ohmist is about
perfect for this - or a reasonable oscilloscope)..

A quick and crude test of the O2 sensor is: engine idling. Pull dip stick
up a bit - engine speed should slow a bit, then return to normal. Push
stick back in - engine speed should get faster, then return to normal. What
you've done is created a lean condition (slower, the O2 sensor compensates)
then a 'normal' condition (faster as the O2 sensor resets the mixture for a
normal mixture).

The above may be the ravings of a maroon baboon.. so take them for what
they are - free advice. Worth every nothing you paid for it.

Best,

Don Eilenberger
don^e...@bid-service.com

Note above is a no-spam address, replace "^" with "_"