Alfa Jaeger Italia tach
Michael Tiefenback
tach from a '79 Alfa Spider? I have a tach I'd like to get back into
functioning shape. Granted, I haven't yet verified that the electrical
wiring is actually connected to the tach, but I'll get around to that.
I expect to be able to fix the tach myself, but maybe I'll find out
differently.
--
No .sig, just .fact
Catman
No idea about fixing one, but I have *several* from early eighties
Giuliettas that may do as replacements, or for spares to get yours
running
Let me know
--
Catman
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright
Alfa Romeo
116 Giulietta 2.0
Kim Boydell
move at all then check to see if power is getting to the tach, if not, then
start following the wiring diagram. If power is getting to the tach and the
needle is not moving (or moving slowly or it appears to get stuck) then see
if the needle has warped and is rubbing on the face plate. The needle can
be straightened by carefully, and I mean really carefully, removing it from
the tach, placing it between two sheets of paper (inside an envelop works
well) and gently heating it with a hair drier. If it is neither of these,
then I think a professional is required. Note, the tach needle is carefully
balanced, if part should break off then the needle will not read correctly,
so be careful while removing it.
Regards
Kim
79 Spider
"Catman" <alf...@freeuk.com> wrote in message
news:39C0AF81...@freeuk.com...
Michael Tiefenback
> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:57:11 -0400
> From: Kim Boydell <boydel...@istar.ca>
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.alfa-romeo
> Subject: Re: Alfa Jaeger Italia tach
>
> First things first, what seems to be the problem? If the needle doesn't
Needle is stuck on 1000 rpm. She moves neither up nor down.
> move at all then check to see if power is getting to the tach, if not, then
> start following the wiring diagram. If power is getting to the tach and the
> needle is not moving (or moving slowly or it appears to get stuck) then see
> if the needle has warped and is rubbing on the face plate. The needle can
to be done soon. Speedo due back from shop Tues/Wed next week, and I'd
like to have tach working.
> be straightened by carefully, and I mean really carefully, removing it from
> the tach, placing it between two sheets of paper (inside an envelop works
> well) and gently heating it with a hair drier. If it is neither of these,
> then I think a professional is required. Note, the tach needle is carefully
> balanced, if part should break off then the needle will not read correctly,
> so be careful while removing it.
This is a potentially helpful suggestion. I hope I don't need it.
Really.
I was trying to get my ducks in a row before I start shooting. I bought a
Volvo P1800S in the '80s (still have it 8^) and had to have its speedo
overhauled. The tach didn't work, and I opened it up, found a broken
resistor, considered the circuit and replaced the resistor with a roughly
equivalent one, and have been using it ever since. However, I used a
carbon composition resistor. The tach has a roughly 20% variation in
measured speed, apparently temperature driven, between summer and winter
in othewise equivalent driving conditions. I think it's higher indicated
RPM in summer, but I really don't remember. I have been attributing this
behavior to the carbon comp resistor temperature coefficient, but maybe
I'm being unfair. I actively disregarded the problem and don't notice it
any more. I wanted to be prepared to fix the tach if I found that this
was warranted. I expected a circuit diagram to have not only the value
for all components listed, but also their types (metal film vs. carbon
comp resistor, electrolytic vs ceramic cap, etc).
Michael Tiefenback