Gearbox R&R on 105
Roger Sampson
I need to replace the 2nd gear synchro on my US spec. 1971 GTV. What is the
consensus on doing this work in regards to leaving the engine in place and
just removing the transmission, or removing the engine and transmission as a
unit? I am doing the work in my own garage and do not have a lift so work
will be done from under the car.
I am not planning on doing any engine work, however I will replace the
clutch assembly and motor mounts while I am at it.
I have rebuilt Alfa gearboxes before, on an older Sprint, and a Berlina,
however I did have the engine out at the time. I found the gearboxes rather
straight forward and easy to work on, however in the interest of time I am
considering buying a rebuilt gearbox from International Auto. Any comments
pro or con on their rebuild quality?
Any comments or suggestions, things I should watch out for while doing this
work would be appreciated.
Martin de Haart
I always discover that it is not easy , almost impossible, to mount or
umount the gearbox and motor in the car.Also removal of gearbox or engine is
not easy with the other in the car.
If you make enough room under the car and have the radiator removed ,you can
pull the engine out while holding the end of the gearbox down.
( just like a take off of a plane, even the fan is at the right side :-)) )
This is also easier for replacing the enginemounts in this case.
Don't have any experiences with others who rebuild gearboxes.But if you have
ever worked on this gearboxes and find it easy straight forward work with
only a synchro to replace , I would go for the job myself.That's not a hell
of job. Time for getting and bringing the gearboxes are almost the same as
opening and closing the gearbox. Besides the costs it is good for your
feelings...to say you've done it yourself.
Go for it !
Martin
Roger Sampson <rogers...@home.com> schreef in berichtnieuws
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Dr Entropy
Roger Sampson wrote:
Hope this arrives in time to help:
This is strange... I just pulled the gearbox from my '78 Spider... Twice. Once
attached to a smokin' 2000, and again from the end of a shiny-new 1750... Long
story, but: It was easier to remove it from under the car than trying to get
both units out together! And about the same as a GTV (I've owned 3 of 'em, and
long enough to have done this job more than a few times).
Remove radiator, loosen the motor mount bolts (I wound the bottom stud nuts
almost all the way off, and removed the top bolts on both sides), remove
linkage, starter, and attachments to the firewall. Drop the steering box side of
the steering cross-over bar. Raise the car up and put it on stands... And put a
piece of cardboard between the cam cover and the firewall. The angle you'll need
to get th' gearbox out will have the cover just touching it. Exhaust next.The
driveline removal was from the diff U/J to the 'donut' (I use a big "band" style
hoseclamp on th' donut to compress it.Works great). Speedo cable disconnect.
To drop the box out, I found lowering the box at its' mount to work well, then
move the jack to the front and raise the engine enough to slip a 3.5" piece of
wood between the crank pulley and the swaybar or frame... This can be tricky
because the pan is on a pretty good angle and I ALWAYS put wood between jack and
pan. The weight of the engine forces the jack to slip forward. But once you get
the wood between pulley and frame, "it ain't gonna go noplace." Fiddlin' the
top two bolts out can be a real skill test, so I take 'em out ahead of time,
while th' car is still on the ground. Clutch slave out, shield removed from
bellhousing, four nuts left to remove. A tug or two and it's in your lap if
you're not careful!
Centering the new driven plate is about the most important thing when
reassembling. After that it's just goin' backwards through the proceedure.
Alfa gearboxes are so well designed, it'd be a waste of resources to get another
one. Pull it apart and replace the synchro yourself.
And something I really like is Hylomar gasket "goo." Best stuff I've ever found
for sealing two mating surfaces. 'Specially aluminium. If it's applied correctly
there's no way for anything to leak past it.
Save the motor mount replacement for last, as the new mounts don't need to be
"wonked around" and are less compliant than old ones. You can raise the motor up
with a jack at the pan (with a piece of wood between) a lot easier after the
gearbox is on and secured normally in the vehicle. And it's a lot easier to undo
the three nuts on each mount's bracket on the block than to try undoing the two
nuts inside the mount when they're in situ.
--
Dr E--
mhm 17x1
SGM #3
smeeter #14
FWAC:"Old No.-7"
Surgeon,General Relativity
Commodore/Upper-Half/1st Virginia Volunteers/Cęsium Brigade
NF & TCIB
K. E. Graham
"Roger Sampson" <rogers...@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Nl36.105037$yR4.2...@news1.rdc1.tx.home.com...
to happen again) I pulled both out as a unit with little trouble. Got the
car as high as is practical to give the transmission "tail" plenty of room
to drop and I pulled it out nearly vertical, it seemed (actually about a 60
degree angle). Hope this helps.
Martin de Haart
I was always struggling while bolting off the two in the car .
Also reassembly of gearbox and engine was often a crime in this
configuration.
Maybe it matters of brakepedal things are in the way or not...
Everybody has it's own way to do it.
( by the way: it's good to see other people working with wood and jacks !)
Martin
Dr Entropy <ent...@chaos.com> schreef in berichtnieuws
3A553949...@chaos.com...
K. E. Graham
engine/transmission out of his Giulia. Interestingly, he has the REAR of
the car jacked up while pulling the package, which seems to give the tranny
room to "droop" to allow everything to clear the bay. This photo about 1/5
down the page.
http://mev4474.home.texas.net/gsrebld/gsrebld.htm
"Martin de Haart" <martin...@wxs.nl> wrote in message
news:9350t6$a986$2...@reader02.wxs.nl...
Martin de Haart
engine and gearbox out together.
I have a car lift in my garage so i don't have to raise the back of the car
for room.
The site you mentioned is very nice !
Martin
K. E. Graham <kegr...@nowhere.com> schreef in berichtnieuws
Dqz56.4182$Iu.10...@newsrump.sjc.telocity.net...
Dr Entropy
job, so pullin' the two as a unit would be prudent. Just remember that
pesky steering cross-bar!
--
Dr E--
mhm 17x1
SGM #3
smeeter #14
FWAC:"Old No.-7"
Surgeon General-Relativity
Commodore/Upper-Half/1st Virginia Volunteers/CEsium Brigade
NF & TCIB
-----------------------------
If you jump we will save you.
There is no way out. -- JungleAcid.