Ours does it randomly.
Just 'reboot' the car. Seems to clear it.
--
SteveH
Close all the windows, turn it off, then turn it back on again :-)
--
SteveH
*slap*
Now give him the proper answer :)
--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 GTV TS GT 3.2 V6
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
> > Close all the windows, turn it off, then turn it back on again :-)
> >
> >
>
> *slap*
>
> Now give him the proper answer :)
Well, aside from the 'close all the windows', that *is* the proper
answer to that problem, IME.
--
SteveH
I thought the battery needed disconnecting as well?
> SteveH wrote:
> > Catman <cat...@rustcuore-sportivo.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >>> Close all the windows, turn it off, then turn it back on again :-)
> >>>
> >>>
> >> *slap*
> >>
> >> Now give him the proper answer :)
> >
> > Well, aside from the 'close all the windows', that *is* the proper
> > answer to that problem, IME.
>
> I thought the battery needed disconnecting as well?
Not for that, no.
--
SteveH
Well, every day's a school day. We seem to have scared the OP off. Again.
> You haven't frightened me off but I am hoping to hear a possible easy
> solution to my problem. Currently my battery is disconnected and I'm
> hoping for the best!
Hmmm, if turning off and back on again hasn't reset things....
Try disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and touching it
onto the positive terminal for 5-10 seconds.
That sometimes clears the system down.
If this fails, you need the ECU read. If you're anywhere near
Caerphilly, I'm more than happy to do it with my netbook and Alfa Diag.
--
SteveH
Seconded - same in my JTS. Didn't know about the windows though - I just
turn off and on and it goes away. Actually mine hasn't done it for ages
(touch wood).
Funny that you should mention that - I was in Asda just 5 minutes ago
looking for Caerphilly. They just don't seem to stock it any more. Neither
does Tesco. What's the world coming to when you can't get a decent crumbly
cheese.
Is this a cheese shop?
Still. having the same problem....engine running rough when cold in
particular. Message ref motor control failure still shows. Getting
nervous now. Could be expensive?
<snip>
>
> Still. having the same problem....engine running rough when cold in
> particular. Message ref motor control failure still shows. Getting
> nervous now. Could be expensive?
I'm no expert on the diesels, but the most likely thing is probably a
broken sensor or connector.
You really need someone to read the ODBCII errors codes. SteveH will
help if you're near Wales, or a local independent will help as well.
It *might* be expensive, but it might well not be :)
Cheers, thanks for your help. I think I may risk limping back to the
Midlands and finding an independent with testing facilities. Local
boys can't look at it until end of week!
I doubt there's much risk, TBH.
I am now wondering whether a purchase of alfadiag would be worthy of
consideration. Where should I source required components please?
> I am now wondering whether a purchase of alfadiag would be worthy of
> consideration. Where should I source required components please?
You need a standard OBDII lead bought on eBay. And a steady hand - ISTR
you need to bridge pins 3 and 7 (but you really should check this) so
you can read all the Alfa ECUs.
--
SteveH
But what about the software - where do we get that?
>Still. having the same problem....engine running rough when cold in
>particular. Message ref motor control failure still shows. Getting
>nervous now. Could be expensive?
Difficult to say without diagnostic. Could be a number of things.
However, if it's running rough and there's a warning light, I'd be
*very* tempted not to drive it. If you're in the AA/RAC etc, you could
try them..
What does the Alfa manual (I don't have on any more) say you should do
when this light comes on?
--
Z
Scotland
Alfa Romeo 156 2.4JTD Veloce Leather (sold)
'Oil' be seeing you..
(Email must have the word 'Alfa' in the
subject line to get through auto-filtering)
The manual just has a picture of a moustached man holding his hands (cupped)
out in front of him, and his shoulders raised slightly in a continental
shrug stance.
You are a very bad man, indeed.
Hm. I can see what I have to look forward to now.
Never had this trouble on the Land Rover ng,
although Nige does tend to swear a bit.
TonyB
156 JTD ( elect )
Nah, mostly they are fine.
> Never had this trouble on the Land Rover ng,
> although Nige does tend to swear a bit.
This is Nige, as in the biker Nige?
> > Never had this trouble on the Land Rover ng,
> > although Nige does tend to swear a bit.
>
> This is Nige, as in the biker Nige?
Yes, who else could it be?
--
SteveH
Fucking cuntybollocks
Wine/Keyboard interface!
I *really* hope we are talking the same Nige! (Ince)
--
Rob Pearson
156 1.9jtd sportwagon (now)
164 V6 Lusso (gone)
Development. Am heading back today. I have discovered that if I remove
the diesel pipe to the filter and then refit it she runs as normal for
a while then reverts to lumpy running. Light stays on of course. Any
more ideas?
If this is the diesel fuel pipe I'd be going for a blocked filter or
screwed fuel pump. SMK may well be along in a minute.
Funny though! ;-)
Oh aye :)
Back home now and more to report.
It's nothing to do with the fuel system as I mistakenly mentioned
earlier. When I had pulled the fuel pipe off I had also 'jiggled'
various connectors etc. It turns out (through a series of stops and a
process of elimination on the way home) that the connector to the
injector control (third from left side) if taken off and cleaned with a
scrap of business card then reconnected she runs like a dream. First
time I managed to locate *THE* problem I ran for just over 50 miles
without repetition. After cleaning twice more I made it the 240 miles
home with minimal inconvenience.
So what to do now? The clean-up whilst making a temporary repair doesn't
seem to be the long term solution. Anyone have have any experience of
this type of malfunction?? If so what steps should I take now if I am to
avoid a shocking bill from a 'pro'??
Cheers.
Jim
Super
>
> So what to do now? The clean-up whilst making a temporary repair doesn't
> seem to be the long term solution. Anyone have have any experience of
> this type of malfunction?? If so what steps should I take now if I am to
> avoid a shocking bill from a 'pro'??
I'd have a look at the connector, see if you can't tighten it up with
careful use of needle nosed pliers. Some very fine emery paper and / or
some contact cleaner might also help.
If that doesn't work, you may well be able to just buy a new one on
ebay, or from your local dealer / independent and fit it yourself.
Even if you do have to take it to a dealer, if that is all that's wrong,
I can't see it costing a great deal.
TonyB
There can be only one :)
Thank *god*
> if that is all that's wrong, I can't see it costing a great deal.
Your optimism may not matched by an inventive garage..
"What do you think is making that knocking noise"
"Opportunity"
</Punch>
Managed to get the ecu scanned and that confirmed what I had
discovered......the fault code was that of cylinder 3 not getting a
squirt of fuel!
Having tried to clean and improve the contact several times I now am
slightly concerned because although I can get it running beautifully for
a while the damn thing eventually reverts to the same problem. The fault
code was cleared and remained clear for a while but returned just as
soon as the contact 'let go' again. Anybody got a sure fire way of
making an effing good contact between the two parts of the damned plug??
Or am I barking up the wrong tree.....one begins to wonder.??
>Managed to get the ecu scanned and that confirmed what I had
>discovered......the fault code was that of cylinder 3 not getting a
>squirt of fuel!
>
>Having tried to clean and improve the contact several times I now am
>slightly concerned because although I can get it running beautifully for
>a while the damn thing eventually reverts to the same problem. The fault
>code was cleared and remained clear for a while but returned just as
>soon as the contact 'let go' again. Anybody got a sure fire way of
>making an effing good contact between the two parts of the damned plug??
>Or am I barking up the wrong tree.....one begins to wonder.??
It could be that the cable itself is intermittent. Every time you
reseat/clean the connector, the disturbance allows the cable to work
for a while. If repeated cleaning/reseating doesn't work then I'd
suggest the problem isn't the connector or that the connector is no
longer serviceable (assuming you've not made an @rse of the cleaning).
How many miles are on the clock..is the injector past its best?
I've done nothing to render the connector useless...yet. I was
considering doing so but I had also wondered about a cable fault. The
way the thing is arranged you can only 'disturb' a very short length of
wire when 'jiggling' so if there's a break in it it should be fairly
accessible. How do I make such a diagnosis?? Any suggestions please?
Agreed.
>
> How many miles are on the clock..is the injector past its best?
>
IWHT that the connection is more likely. The injectors are quite cheap
though, £90 for four off ebay.
Can't see prices for the cables, though.
Replacement would probably be the only sensible way.
I'll add my experience even though the above throws it a little....
I had intermittent misfires due to dodgy injector connectors (well, probably
just one but cure-all was applied) on my 147 - cured by securing connectors
with cable-tie to keep pressure on the mechanical connection. Fault started
at around 65k and car ran nicely through the next 100k miles so probably
didn't do any harm!
Oh, and hope to be back in the fold next year, new car required March.... :)
It turns out it was number 3 cylinder injector connector. I have modded
it and for now it works ok. If it happens again, I will try you
solution. Thanks for your input and good luck with the new car.
Good stuff.
No probs - hope your mod suceeds!