'79 Chevy Blazer K5
Scott
I'm new to this group!! So forgive my newbieness ;-)
I'm wondering what would be a good price for a '79 K5 blazer with bad body
cancer, but the motor train is in excellent shape?
Engine: 350
Transfer Case: Heavy-Duty
I think the Transfer case is the 209 (I hope that is right)
New brake system from pedal to rotors and drums
New Driveshafts
Lots of Body Cancer and a few holes in floor boards
I'm considering on buying this truck but the price maybe to high. So I'm
presently negotiating with the owner on the price.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks,
Scott
Dean Dardwin
It depends. In some parts of the country you couldn't give one of them
away, in other parts it's worth it's weight in cold beer!
Here's the deal. If you like it and want to fix it up, it's a great
project truck. You can buy damn near every body panel for the thing,
brand new. The drivetrain is easy to work on and get parts for. If you
want a good off-road truck, it's a great start.
It's worth what you are willing to pay for it... but keep some cash in
your pocket. Remember, it's 23 years old and is going to need some parts
thrown at it.
Have fun!
Dean
Tony M. Kimmell
Like Dean said, it depends on what part of the country you're in. Here where
I'm at in central Illinois, you can usually find them in rough shape for
anywhere between $500-1500. The nicer ones usually go for higher. A nice
original, no rust late 70's Blazer is hard to find around here, so they usually
bring $2500 or more.
Tony Kimmell
Normal, IL
brian
"Scott" <crede...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:aa1lg3$75r69$1...@ID-132888.news.dfncis.de...
> Hi all!!
>
> I'm new to this group!! So forgive my newbieness ;-)
>
> I'm wondering what would be a good price for a '79 K5 blazer with bad body
> cancer, but the motor train is in excellent shape?
$500-1500 depending on what rear axle, transfer case, and transmission
combination you've got. It should have a NP203 or NP205 in it. I'm pretty
sure the NP208 came out a year or two later. The ones with SM465 manual and
a NP205 transfer case are ideal. If you don't like manual, a TH400 is the
ideal automatic.
> Engine: 350
> Transfer Case: Heavy-Duty
> I think the Transfer case is the 209 (I hope that is right)
> New brake system from pedal to rotors and drums
> New Driveshafts
> Lots of Body Cancer and a few holes in floor boards
Well, look at the body mounts. The ones behind the front seats are the ones
to look at along with that area behind the passenger's feet (the vertical
part). If this is rotted out it's no fun to fix. The rest is pretty easy.
It isn't worth more than 500 bucks unless you want the motor or something if
it's rotted in that area.
> I'm considering on buying this truck but the price maybe to high. So I'm
> presently negotiating with the owner on the price.
>
> Any help is appreciated
www.off-road.com has places to help you identify transmissions and transfer
cases. Transfer cases have a little round thing with a screw in the middle
that tells you what "new process" model it is.
The people at www.coloradok5.com and bbs.off-road.com are the best ones for
more information. I've never owned one because they're always rustbuckets.
> Thanks,
> Scott
-Brian
Scott
I live in Southern Indiana. I only want the truck for fishing or something
to just tool around in, around town. Price is a big deal since I can't find
alot work around this town (That sounds kinda funny :-)). So I was curious
if $1800 is to much money for a truck in it's condition. It is an Automatic
Transmission and I know he said it was the Heavy-Duty NP209 Transfer case
which makes the 4x4 run all the time. He mentioned that most people don't
like this case because of that.
But here is the deal:
He is considering on removing the engine possibly the transmission and maybe
the transfer case. Then he would replace them with a different 350,
transmission, and the transfer case of this 81 pickup truck (he really
doesn't knows much about any of these items). This would cause the drive
shafts to be completely replaced to fit the new transmission and transfer
case. He said of course no cost to me if he does this but the price was
staying at $1800. So my concern is that the motor that is in it now is a
good one, and there is some trust there that the motor will stand the test
of time, and this other motor may or may not work later on. That goes for
all the components he plans to replace.
What do you guys think now?
Thanks a bunch Guys,
Scott
"brian" <nos...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:uc8umlk...@corp.supernews.com...
dr...@slosh.com
> Thanks guys!!
> I live in Southern Indiana. I only want the truck for fishing or something
> to just tool around in, around town. Price is a big deal since I can't find
> alot work around this town (That sounds kinda funny :-)). So I was curious
> if $1800 is to much money for a truck in it's condition. It is an Automatic
> Transmission and I know he said it was the Heavy-Duty NP209 Transfer case
> which makes the 4x4 run all the time. He mentioned that most people don't
> like this case because of that.
That would be an NP203 in that vintage.
> But here is the deal:
> He is considering on removing the engine possibly the transmission and maybe
> the transfer case. Then he would replace them with a different 350,
> transmission, and the transfer case of this 81 pickup truck (he really
> doesn't knows much about any of these items). This would cause the drive
> shafts to be completely replaced to fit the new transmission and transfer
> case. He said of course no cost to me if he does this but the price was
> staying at $1800. So my concern is that the motor that is in it now is a
> good one, and there is some trust there that the motor will stand the test
> of time, and this other motor may or may not work later on. That goes for
> all the components he plans to replace.
The newer truck might have the '208 transfer case.
If the seller is gonna replace the engine/powertrain (a certain amount of
work) there must be a good reason -- like he wants the engine in one 'cuz it's
lower miles, or there's a problem he isn't telling you about.
I'd be afraid to buy a truck from this guy unless it was REALLY cheap -- lord
only knows what you'll end up with.
-- A
--
dr...@slosh.com Slosh Textiles & Beef, LLC http://www.slosh.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
most days '01 Rodeo Sport (Amigo) "JetGrrl" V6 Softtop KW PhatBox
fast days '93 300ZX NA "Ishara" Alpine JL Audio T-tops and zoomin
slow days '74 K5 Blazer "Tank Grrl" stock, rusty, and convertible
big days '90 V2500 Suburban "Sub Grrl" people, stuff, dog! mover
some day '77 Blazer Chalet camper insert being worked on, really
brian
> Thanks guys!!
>
> I live in Southern Indiana. I only want the truck for fishing or something
> to just tool around in, around town. Price is a big deal since I can't
find
> alot work around this town (That sounds kinda funny :-)). So I was curious
> if $1800 is to much money for a truck in it's condition. It is an
Automatic
> Transmission and I know he said it was the Heavy-Duty NP209 Transfer case
> which makes the 4x4 run all the time. He mentioned that most people don't
> like this case because of that.
If he really thinks it's a NP209 then I'd avoid it. It's a NP203.
Unless it's got fresh rubber, fair interior, and a decent motor/transmission
I'd tell the guy to go fly a kite in the lightning storm for that price.
For reference, I bought my 84K10 with a 305/700r4/NP208 for $1900. It had
65000 miles on it. There were no holes in the body when I bought it but now
it does. It wasn't cobbled and had never been worked on by anyone but a GM
service center.
Here's another reference from a guy at school that sent this to the
'wheelers mailing list:
For Sale
1979 K10 Blazer
350, full time 4 wheel drive
Drive train is in good shape, leaks some oil, looks like it needs valve
seals.
Just replaced plugs and wires
107K miles
Need to get rid of before graduation
I need to get $600 for it.
> But here is the deal:
>
> He is considering on removing the engine possibly the transmission and
maybe
> the transfer case. Then he would replace them with a different 350,
> transmission, and the transfer case of this 81 pickup truck (he really
> doesn't knows much about any of these items). This would cause the drive
> shafts to be completely replaced to fit the new transmission and transfer
> case. He said of course no cost to me if he does this but the price was
> staying at $1800. So my concern is that the motor that is in it now is a
> good one, and there is some trust there that the motor will stand the test
> of time, and this other motor may or may not work later on. That goes for
> all the components he plans to replace.
There's a reason that he is getting rid of the powertrain and it doesn't
benefit you. Find a different vehicle to purchase. You don't want to buy
someone else's headache.
> What do you guys think now?
Unless you need something I'd wait a while longer.
> Thanks a bunch Guys,
> Scott
-Brian
Renegade
crede...@hotmail.com says...
Master Cylender, New water pump, New driveshaft. Missing the Drivers
window and the rear window didn't work, plus no back seat and a broken
drivers seat..
290 later I'm close to having all the parts I need. I still have 500
to go to get it in running shape.
Start at 500 and maybe allow for a perfect drive train
Renegade
>
> "Scott" <crede...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:aa44ts$7lh05$1...@ID-132888.news.dfncis.de...
> > Thanks guys!!
well. 1300 if everything on it needs replaced. I'd jump at the 600 one
just for parts if it was in my neck of the woods.
But I sure as heck would not pay more than 500 for the 79 Rust bucket
when for more money and less work you can get an acceptable one for 2
grand if you look.
make sure your out of pocket to get it running right is less than 2 grand
and you are coming out ok on the deal. At 1800, it's not a good deal.
Renegade
The holes in the floor will cost you 50-70 bucks in pannels, and that's
if you know someone with a welder or can weld yourself. Several hundred
if you have to pay a shop.
Scott
Thank you all for your help!
In time and after I spend some more time in this NG I will be able to know
when I see a Good price on trucks like this.
Again, Thanks!!
Scott
"Renegade" <renegade_knight*NO*SPAM*@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.173123366...@news.rmci.net...
Phantom
brackets you need to fix the body rust. Be aware they rust big time
across the lower body where the tailgat hinges are and that is a bitch
to repair. Just behind the doors where the floor steps up is the
second area and of course the rocker panels.
I replaced the whole body on my 75" Blazer with a 76' and my 89' Jimmy
with an 84' rather then fight the rust. I'm in upstate NY with
snow/salt. Got the bodies from southern states.
Also in these snow belt areas never undercoat!!!!!
Rust proofing is OK but undercoating causes pockets for salt/water to
remain and it eats metal FAST.
Had the floor repaired under warrenty on the 89' with only 50K on it.
Rusted through from drivers door-door just behind the seats. There is
a body brace across the floor and the water got in, drains plugged by
undercoating......Voila
PS undercoating was an option I paid for from the dealer, thats
probably why they paid without even a slight fight.
As for the fulltime transfer case they are better then part-time in my
opinion. I got 13MPG on my 75' 350, 3.73 rear and 33" tires. I
installed a $300+ conversion to make it part-time including manual
locking hubs....Still got 13 MPG average so the $$$$$got me nothing.
Then I had more wheelspin in wet driving and had to lock hubs
everytime I got in snowy/slippery weather.
On Mon, 6 May 2002 13:27:14 -0500, "Scott" <crede...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
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