S-10 4x4 remote filter line leak....
Lisa Forster
the right direction.....
I believe I've heard that this is quite a common problem...that the remote
oil filter lines on 4x4 S-10 Blazers (pick-ups too?) tend to leak a little.
Well now it has progressed to leaking enough to leave small spots on the
garage floor. NOT GOOD! I am keeping an eye on the oil level but would
like someone with experience in this matter to advise me on the most
reliable fix. Also, is there a particular set of hoses that are primarily
the culprit? (it appears that there are four hoses...is this correct?) I
don't want my truck taking a sh#$ on me right now and have a friend in the
auto repair business but I'd like some input before occupying a bay in his
busy shop. Thanx to all who can help with information.
Roger
mac davis
first, try getting a new set of o-rings and changing them...
that should work, but if not, figure on $80 - $100 for a new set of
hoses, tubes, o-rings, etc....
mac
http://www.aadtonline.com/Bios%20Files/mac%20davis.htm
shiden_kai
"Lisa Forster" wrote
> I believe I've heard that this is quite a common problem...that the remote
> oil filter lines on 4x4 S-10 Blazers (pick-ups too?) tend to leak a
little.
It's a very common problem.
> Well now it has progressed to leaking enough to leave small spots on the
> garage floor. NOT GOOD! I am keeping an eye on the oil level but would
> like someone with experience in this matter to advise me on the most
> reliable fix. Also, is there a particular set of hoses that are primarily
> the culprit? (it appears that there are four hoses...is this correct?) I
It looks like there are 4 hoses, but in fact there are really only two
components that you replace. You replace both the set of hoses that
goes from the engine block to the oil filter adapter and from the oil
filter adapter up to the radiator.
The reliable fix (so far) is to install the updated GM hoses that were
released a few months ago. So far they seem to be working pretty
good. It appears that they either switched to a different part
provider or simply changed the method of crimping the rubber
hoses to the metal lines. There is a difference between the new
hoses and the old hoses.
> don't want my truck taking a sh#$ on me right now and have a friend in the
> auto repair business but I'd like some input before occupying a bay in his
> busy shop. Thanx to all who can help with information.
It's quite rare, but I've seen these hoses blow right off and then
you lose your engine oil rather quickly. Unlikely to happen to you,
but I would address this problem as quickly as the old wallet
will allow.
Labour time should be 2.1 hrs....parts...whatever you can get
them for from the dealership.
Ian
Lisa Forster
Roger
ChrisJCol
from the engine to the adapter? A friend and I tried to do the job but were
unable to get the old line with the flange between the engine oil pan and the
front drive differential. We had to put the old one back on. I heard
afterwards that you have to remove the motor mounts and raise the engine. Do
you know if this is true?
Thanks, for any info you can give. Chris
mac davis
they come out with a lot of "omph" but no motor mount stuff on a 93,
don't know if a 98 is different...
if you haven't already tried this, it's easier to take off the wheel
and use a clamp or tape to pull the inner splash shield up and out of
your way..
shiden_kai
"ChrisJCol" wrote
No, you do not have to remove the motor mounts and raise the engine.
I just did 2 sets of these cooler lines this morning. Here's what you do,
that old line with the flange....get it unbolted and loose, and then put
a large prybar between the engine oil pan and the front diff and move
the engine over maybe 1/8-1/4" and the flange and pipe will slip between
the pan and front diff. If you are worried about the aluminum pan and/or
the aluminum front diff...don't...just make sure that you aren't putting a
lot
of pressure on the oil pan with the end of the prybar. In fact, I usually
put the end of the prybar against the front diff and then pull the engine
over a bit. Same procedure putting the new line back in.
Ian
ChrisJCol
attempt this job. I would have never tried it if I knew I had to remove the
mounts.
You are saying that the motor will move enough to let the mounting flange
slide through?
If so, maybe I'll try it again when it warms up a little.
Thanks Chris
JELo
one of the transmission supports, it runs between the two
hoses at the engine adapter end. JELo
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Joe
<rfor...@charter.net> wrote:
The following excerpt was taken from the June 2001 edition of GM's
TechLink news letter sent to all GM dealerships every month and may be
of some help...
" Replacing Oil Cooler
Lines
Affected vehicles:S10,Sonoma,
Jimmy,Blazer and Bravada
Redesigned engine oil cooler lines
P/N 15760333 and 15760334 replace the
old parts on 4WD utility and pickup
trucks,and P/N 15757070 replaces the
lines on 2WD vehicles.Installation on
1996 T pickup and utility vehicles require
that the lip of the rubber baffle attached
to the radiator support be trimmed to fit.
A grille redesign eliminated the baffle in
1998 models.New seals come with the
new lines.However,technicians must
order and install new clips to hold the
lines into the connector at the radiator.
New clips are available in a bag of ten
under P/N 15724727..."
Cost me $60 bucks for the part and about an hour to do my '98 2wd s10
Regards
mac davis
but the poster was looking for help on oil FILTER lines, wasn't he??
shiden_kai
"JELo" wrote
> IIRC if you have the auto trans you also have to remove
> one of the transmission supports, it runs between the two
> hoses at the engine adapter end.
Yep...but that is on the older models...by 98 they
don't use those support rods anymore.
Ian
SBlackfoot
While the original poster probably did mean the block-to-remote filter
lines, the oil cooler lines also run to the remote filter on so equipped
models.