Distributor Cap Wiring for Wisconsin VH4D
Scott Townsend
Serial 5804809 engine. Please be kind with me as my knowledge of engines is
pretty minimal.
After trying to get it to start for some time we replaced the Distributor
Cap, Rotor, Wires and plugs, air and oil filters, and coil. We labeled all
the wires for the plugs and are pretty sure that we have them all in the
right place, though would like to be sure.
There also seems to be quite a bit of back pressure in the engine and every
once in a while trying to start it , the Dipsick will shoot out. I'm not
sure if that could be caused by the miswiring of the plugs or not.
Does anyone have this unit and could they tell me where the wires should go?
Thank you,
Scott<-
Karl Townsend
I've no specific knowledge on this engine but that dipstick blowing out
leads me to suspect a more serious issue with the engine. I'd suggest you do
a compression test on each of the cylinders. When I've crossed plug wires
before, I've always gotten a great deal of popping sound and backfiring
through the carburetor. What's it doing when you try to start it?
--
<(©¿©)> An apple a day keeps the doctor away.
Two apples a day gets the doctor's OK.
Five a day makes you a fruit grower like me.
Karl Townsend
Scott Townsend
As I mentioned before, I pretty much show not be working on an engine with
the amount of knowledge I have on them... Ask me to build a PC and I'm down
with that...
So when I start it up, its not at a point where it sputters, I can see a
Spark from the Plugs, which I was not getting before. I can see gas in at
least 2 of the chambers The left 2 As you are sitting behind the engine.
I wouldn't know a carburetor if it bit me on the hand. And as far as a
compression test, er um. Can I use my Cat 5 RJ45 Crimper for that? (-;
My ear still hurts from the popping that emanates from the backfire that
comes out of the place that the oil goes in. Oh and the Oil Cap is also not
on either, as it keeps popping off too.
Thank you for your assistance!
Scott<-
P.S.
Cool Last name!
"Karl Townsend" <karltown...@earthlink.net remove .NOT> wrote in
message news:UzHgg.1441$lf4....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Charles Foot
in the piston..... it's about the only way you will get an explosion in
the oil sump. I'd say the rings have been the primary cause of your
problems all along.
philkryder
Scott....
I have unfortunately had some experience with Wisconsin engines of that
era and earlier.
Having worked on both computers and these engines, I'm confident that
you will do fine.
I was recently able to obtain a manual on Ebay for a VG4D for about
$25US - including shipping. I recommend you get the manual.
I strongly recommend that you get a manual.
I found this one for the VH4D:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wisconsin-Engine-Repair-Manual-VH4D_W0QQitemZ7626059270QQcategoryZ48714QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Are you sure that you have not overfilled the oil sump?
This engine has a direct vent to the atmosphere and shouldn't build up
alot of pressure.
You say that you replaced coil and distibutor cap.
Does that mean that this engine does not have a magneto?
Are you sure?
WICO and Fairbanks Morse magnetos were the standard in that era, even
on engines with electric start.
Have you checked the points for gap and dwell.
Older engines would allow oil into the point area and cause poor spark.
(My experience is with Magneto engines)
Do you feel comfortable removing the plugs and verifying that the #1
plug fires when that piston is at Top Dead Center (and on compression)?
You can tell it is the compression stroke rather than the exhaust
stroke by turning the engine with the crank while having your thumb
over the #1 spark plug hole.
The pressure will be noticeable against your thumb.
Is it possible that the distributor or magneto has been turned to be
out of time.
If it really is a distributor, then remove the plugs and ensure that
timing is close.
If it is a magneto, stop and get a reference manual.
email me, if you feel that I can help you. Phil
Pete Keillor
wrote:
Yup, you probably have a hole in the piston. There should be no
communication of air-gas mix into the crankcase below the pistons
enough to ignite. My brother had the same thing happen to one of
those Pontiac overhead cam straight sixes back in the late '60's. He
was running at very high revs when he heard CHUFFA - CHUFFA - CHUFFA -
BLAAMM! It blew off the oil filler pipe.
There's plenty of info on the web to educate yourself about engines.
http://library.thinkquest.org/C006011/english/sites/ottomotor.php3?v=2
has an animation of what's going on. Now imagine if you get a hole in
the piston. Instead of compressing, you'll gradually pump the
crankcase below the piston full of fuel-air. When the fuel-air mix
gets enough fuel to support combustion, the sparkplug sets it off.
Pete Keillor
JoeSP
"Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in message
news:FrFgg.45913$Lm5....@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
That engine was used on things like farm machinery for decades. The firing
order on that engine is 1-3-4-2. Start at top dead center, with number one
in firing position. But most old-time mechanics usually get it by trial and
error, switching wires until it fires up and runs smoothly.
Scott Townsend
Though the Cap is not oriented so there is a wire at the top. Though there
is a Wire that is at the place where the 'key' is on the cap to align it to
the rest of the thing. So is that the '1' I should start with? Then
Clockwise?
the Plugs are labeled on the housing around the engine, I'm guessing they
should correspond to the same scheme?
RE:"most old-time mechanics usually get it by trial and error"
I think this is the first engine that I've ever really done work on.
(-; Is that bad at 34?
Thanks,
Scott<-
"JoeSP" <ol...@telus.net> wrote in message
news:at4hg.14692$S61.14385@edtnps90...
philkryder
engine until you feel compression on #1.
That is the sure way to know.
As an added bonus, you should see a mark or marked fan blade at the top
of the flywheel fan when #1 is at TopDeadCenter.
Do you know if you have a Magneto or a Distributor?
Again, I think you will profit from a manual.
Scott Townsend
Not sure if I can get to the Fan easily. the Hydraulic tank and a grate are
covering it and make it pretty inaccessible without tearing it really apart.
hmmm... It might be faster to dig the Ditches by hand.. (-; hehehe
Thank you for your reply!
Scott<-
"philkryder" <alt.g...@Kryder.com> wrote in message
news:1149655263.8...@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
NapalmHeart
> It is a Distributor. Has the rotor under the cap.
That's not an indicator of whether or not your machine has a magneto. Does
it have a wire from the battery to energize the coil? Does it just have one
wire going to a switch that stops the engine?
Ken
Ken Sterling
1. crank engine with distributor cap OFF, and note which direction
the rotor is turning...
2. get number one piston to top dead center on the compression
stroke....
3. when you re-install the distributor cap (with number 1 piston at
TDC on compression) the rotor will be pointing at the #1 tower on the
cap.....
4. install wires on the cap in the correct firing order (1,3,4,2) in
the direction of rotor rotation...
problem should be solved other than minor "timing adjustment" provided
by rotating distributor a bit one direction or the other....
Hope this helps.
Ken.
hhggffdd
>> We have a Ditchwich Circa 1960 something with a Wisconsin VH4D, Spec 408206,
>> Serial 5804809 engine. Please be kind with me as my knowledge of engines is
>> pretty minimal.
>>
>> After trying to get it to start for some time we replaced the Distributor
>> Cap, Rotor, Wires and plugs, air and oil filters, and coil. We labeled all
>> the wires for the plugs and are pretty sure that we have them all in the
>> right place, though would like to be sure.
>>
>> There also seems to be quite a bit of back pressure in the engine and every
>> once in a while trying to start it , the Dipsick will shoot out. I'm not
>> sure if that could be caused by the miswiring of the plugs or not.
>>
>> Does anyone have this unit and could they tell me where the wires should go?
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Scott<-
>>
>>
> Scott,
> 1. crank engine with distributor cap OFF, and note which direction
> the rotor is turning...
> 2. get number one piston to top dead center on the compression
> stroke....
When I got my first truck at age 16 this probably caused me more
trouble than anything else. I was always confused about whether I
was the the top of the compression stroke or the top of the exhaust
stroke. The only way to tell was to remove a valve cover and watch
the valves. After that everything is cake if you know the firing
order.
Scott Townsend
live out its life... I decided to give it another whirl...
So as I'm sitting on the unit with the fan on the opposite end of the engine
then me the plugs are labeled on the Chassis as follows:
2 1
4 3
So on the Cap I guessed that The connector where the Key on the Cap was
located was 1, its the closest to being the one on top.
from there on the Cap in clock wide I connected 1 -1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4 So on
the Cap I just went around in a circle from 1-4 and not 1,3,2,4 As it looked
like you would not want to mix them twice, as I'm guessing you want the
plugs to fire at opposite sides at each interval.
So I had 3 and 4 Reversed according to the new wiring plan. (-;
Swapped them, Tried starting it a few times. Blew the Oil input tube off,
the dipstick went flying and I tried it a few more times...
It Started!!!! Sounded 'okay' I'd here a pop here and there from the Oil
input but it seems to have been running okay...
Ran it for about 5 Minutes and then turned it off. Then could not get it
stared again. )-; Then ran the Battery dead, so back on the charger...
I was so Hopeful!!!
Scott<-
<Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling)> wrote in message
news:4487855...@news.sysmatrix.net...
Scott Townsend
to something on the Dash.
If I turn the key without starting it. I get +12v on the +(plus) side of the
Coil and +12v on the -(minus) Side of the coil. The - (minus) side of the
coil goes to the distributor.
What's a Magneto look like?? Getting to the front of this thing is a trick.
The hydraulic tank and pump are mounted to the front of the unit and there
isn't much room between it and the engine.
Thanks!
Scott<-
"NapalmHeart" <olso...@iserv.net> wrote in message
news:128ejqo...@corp.supernews.com...
NapalmHeart
switch that grounds it out to kill the ignition. It is a self-contained
unit. Here's a link to an illustration.
http://farmall.winnfreenet.com/ignition.html
Ken
If your set-up has a positive and a negative lead and a separate coil, you
have a battery-coil system.
"Scott Townsend" <scott-i@.-N0-SPAMplease.enm.com> wrote in message
news:syWhg.133676$F_3.1...@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
geo...@nocrap.com
I just found this old message thread. I have an identical engine in a
skid loader. I also have an engine manual in .PDF format.
What ever happened to your engine? Did you get it running?
I'll email the manual to you via private email if you want it and post
a valid email address.
G.T.
pke...@fairpoint.net
Hi I also just found this old disscussion. I have a VG4D that has a
counterclockwise distributer that turns 1-1 with the motor. I turned
the flywheel and held my thumb in each hole find pressure to verifie
1342. In order to make it run at all I did a 1234. Since the rotor
turns 180 1 & 3 fire properly 2 & 4 fire eraticly becase the spark has
to jump the 90 degrees in the cap. The rotor turns 180 degrees not 90
like I am used to. Does anyone know why the distributer turns 1-1 or
where I can get a 2-1 reduction gear set. Distributer is mounted on
the end of the generator. I once tried 1432 and it backfired realy bad
like some others have comented thiers did. Phil