- I noticed that maybe, just maybe, it gets a bit worse on foggy days and a bit
better on cold and dry days.... could be a clue.
- My best guess is old age and a whole bunch of things are not perfect and
add up to a 'sometimes' rough idle. In addition mine sometimes refuses
to accelerate. If I ease of the pedal and apply it gently it then seems
OK. Then almost like a switch 'clicking' in the car will drive perfectly
after acting up in this manner.... go figure.
cheers and good luck, keep us posted re what you discover
guenter
In article <yhAnh.19598$U12....@bignews1.bellsouth.net>,
1. Spark plugs to see if it is clean or you got some odd symptoms.
2. Resistance of each spark plug wires... They should all be below 1300
ohms.
3. Distributor cap and rotor... make sure they are clean, not cracked and if
you see black oxidation, use sandpaper to clean them off both items.
4. Vacuum leaks. Check every connections... Clear hose to the rubber boots.
Make sure they are tight and grabs. If not, trim the rubber boot back a bit
more to new portions and reinsert clear tube. Test all connections by
spraying carburator cleaner on it... if engine acts different, then you
still got leak.
5. Spray carb cleaner on intake manifold to see if it is affecting engine.
6. Check EGR... be careful as it can be very hot around there...Do this when
engine is cold. There should be a hole on the bottom where you can push up
the internal diaphragm... Start engine... and push up the diaphragm... if
engine stalls or runs very rough, it works.
What mileage do you have on the car now? Most people don't realize that
timing chain need to be changed when you got high mileage... because it
stretches and change the timing. You can try to compensate for this by
changing your timing a little less... for example, if it is supposed to be 5
BTDC, you can go lower to 2 or 0. But other than this, you really need to
change timing chain if engine has more than 150,000 miles. Most mechanic
suggest you change at about 100 to 120K to be on safe side.
Timing chain also affect emission too.
"Tiger" <tige...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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"Ken Bartley" <Kenba...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
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"Ken Bartley" <Kenba...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
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Really, I was not the one who figured it out, because I had to get it towed
to the garage. I ask all along, if the Dist. cap and rotor could be the
problem, and the garage said a MB cap and rotor are hardly ever the problem,
they said they are built so tough. Like you said Tiger, the cap was a mess
of moisture, looked like a film of oil, and carbon. I'm sure it was shorting
out. Tiger, I noticed one
of your suggestions was to check this, guess I waited too late, before it
got me stranded on the highway. Thanks for all who responded. Ken
"Tiger" <tige...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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