For Musos Only - MF Rack Case Review
Pete Kerezman
biamp bass rig by substituting a 2x10 bass cab for the 1x12 + horn
top. I was lacking an amp rack case, and after I stupidly ordered the
"roto-molded X-rack" that SKB claims is worth $115 and the catalogs
sell for $70, I decided that SKB is not for me. My four-space X-rack
is the right size (only 10-1/2" deep, it's for my micro drive rack)
but it ain't worth seventy bucks, I promise. Fifty... maybe.
When the Musician's Friend "Gear Preview" catalog came it showed a
"Rack Flight Case," four-spaces for fifty bucks. It showed on the
'puter as "in stock" so I bit, even though my last two out of three MF
orders had been improperly filled and required minor hassles to get
straight. Well, they got this one right the first time. Hoo-ray.
Unlike the overpriced SKB dreck this case *is* worth fifty bucks.
Don't get the idea that it's bulletproof roadworthy, it's not, but
neither is the SKB by a long shot. Don't drop either one off the
truck or otherwise abuse it is what I'm sayin'. The MF and the SKB
Roto-molds should in NO WAY be considered to be pro gear, but they
should suffice for most part-time hobby players like me and weekend
warriors who move their own stuff.
SKB has what I feel is a kinda jive mounting system, but this one's
got real threaded steel rack rails (front and rear), but they're kinda
thin, maybe 1/16", and I did manage to strip one hole with my electric
screwdriver so watch your torque. I plan to back up the rails with
10-32 locknuts. For some reason they chose to include flat head
machine screws meant to be countersunk for mounting hardware, but I
already had a couple bags of rack-mount specific insulating pan head
screw sets on hand so I used those.
I think this case is a pretty good value, but only time will tell
how it holds up. As of now I'm pleased.
Texas Pete
George Gleason
> SKB has what I feel is a kinda jive mounting system, but this one's
> got real threaded steel rack rails (front and rear), but they're kinda
> thin, maybe 1/16", and I did manage to strip one hole with my electric
> screwdriver so watch your torque. I plan to back up the rails with
> 10-32 locknuts.
I would only use those captured nuts like the ones SKB supplies other wise
you will never get the backing nuts tight, there just is not room to get in
there unless your thinking a 18 inch extention bar for your socket
peace
George
Pete Kerezman
That's exactly what I was thinkin'. Lotta neat tools in a bike
shop. <g>
Turns out the bolt was stripped and not the rail. Turns out maybe
the skb-type capture nuts ain't such a bad idea. Pushin' sixty and I
still don't know it all. Can you imagine? Thanks for the help.
Texas Pete
George Gleason
>
> Turns out the bolt was stripped and not the rail. Turns out maybe
> the skb-type capture nuts ain't such a bad idea. Pushin' sixty and I
> still don't know it all. Can you imagine? Thanks for the help.
>
Small hint to make racking simpler
often the threaded holes are filled with paint or bad threads or whatever
buy a 10/32 tap and clean up the holes the screw will not do it one must
use a tap for this
It will make racking a no brainer
also lay heavy racks on thier back and put all gear in leaving all screws
loose until every unit is positioned properly then and only then tighten
the screws
George
Pete Kerezman
<g.p.g...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>buy a 10/32 tap and clean up the holes the screw will not do it one must
>use a tap for this
Indeed ! I have one that size for tapping R/C plane wing mounts.
Didn't think to use it.
Your installation sequence is exactly what i done did. Great
minds... <g>
Texas Pete
GK
"Pete Kerezman" <pete...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:3e4eb451...@news.intcomm.net...
I got a cheap rack a couple of years ago from a local music store. I'm not
certain, but I think it was made by the Modern Case Co. It had the cheap
thin metal rails on it, so instead of replacing them, I just turned the rack
around and mounted the new heavy rails on the other side. The thin rails now
hold panels for fan, I/O connections and so on. Everything held together
pretty good for the two years that I toured with it. I got a Sonic case
through Mike Gaster for my MixWiz. It's fairly well built. In the trailer
the mixer rack sat on top of the Modern rack. No matter how well I tied
things down, it still managed to tumble to the floor a few times. It
probably damaged the trailer floor more than anything in the rack, as I
never had troubles from anything in it.
I also carry a 10/32 tap in my kit. I found a set screw type knob for a 3/16
shaft that fit the tap shank, so I have a built in handle that makes the
thing easier to find as well.
GK
Shaun
> Small hint to make racking simpler
> often the threaded holes are filled with paint or bad threads or whatever
> buy a 10/32 tap and clean up the holes the screw will not do it one must
> use a tap for this
> It will make racking a no brainer
> also lay heavy racks on thier back and put all gear in leaving all screws
> loose until every unit is positioned properly then and only then tighten
> the screws
Yep, for years, I always laid racks on their back to totally rearrange or
load them for the first time... until I tried it with a full rack of big
Crests. Not easy to tip a 600 lb amp rack back onto its wheels, when flat
against the shop floor. Make sure to leave some hand-hold space under it!
;)
--
Shaun Wexler,
Hellsgate Sound
http://www.hellsgate-sound.com
sh...@hellsgate-sound.com
Mike Borkhuis
> rearrange or load them for the first time... until I tried it with
> a full rack of big Crests. Not easy to tip a 600 lb amp rack
> back onto its wheels, when flat against the shop floor.
> Make sure to leave some hand-hold space under it!
Reminds me of when I built our first Vertec amp racks.... Need to make
a 'rack roller' like the Midas console rollers. =)
Mike Borkhuis
bork...@rochester.rr.com
Audio Images Sound & Lighting, Inc.
www.audioimagesonline.com