How do U cut holes for XLR, jack and speakon conectors
BSM
on amp racks etc. but i have had an idea for a plate i want to have multipul
connectors on (8 speakon,8 XLR, 2 Jack and 1 IEC plug. the plate i have got
is a 4U black plate (powder coated)
anyone know the best way to cut the correct size holes into this quickly and
easily. i have the drill for the fixing holes (im riviting them) but i need
to cut the correct width holes for the conectors.
what is the correct size hole for
XLR?
Jack?
Speakon?
IEC?
Thanks for any help.
BSM
GK
"BSM" <bsm...@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:bj4u94$66i$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
Milwaukee Tools makes some good quality hole saws. For small projects, they
are the most cost effective for me. You should have a drill press for this,
as a hand drill isn't a stable enough way to do it, unless you want oval
holes.
GK
Pat Janes
"BSM" <bsm...@btopenworld.com> wrote:
> anyone know the best way to cut the correct size holes into this quickly and
> easily.
I use Greenlee metal punches.
Jason Lavoie
<bsm...@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>In the past i have always used prepunched plates for holding my connectors
>on amp racks etc. but i have had an idea for a plate i want to have multipul
>connectors on (8 speakon,8 XLR, 2 Jack and 1 IEC plug. the plate i have got
>is a 4U black plate (powder coated)
>
>anyone know the best way to cut the correct size holes into this quickly and
>easily. i have the drill for the fixing holes (im riviting them) but i need
>to cut the correct width holes for the conectors.
get yourself a set of Greenlee punches. they're two parts. you drill a
1/4" pilot hole, and then put one part on each side with a bolt
through the hole. turn the bold with a wrench and it squeezes the two
parts together, gradually punching out your hole.
makes super clean and accurate holes, with very little effort.
Jason
Lord Valve
is a step-drill. The best of these are the Klein Uni-Bit series.
You can get a set of two which will drill every size from 1/8"
to 1-1/2". They work best in a drill press, though - when drilling
the larger holes, they will seize if they're not fed exactly straight -
which is difficult to do with a handheld power drill. See this URL
for some search results:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=%22Klein+Unibit%22&spell=1
Note that these are available in both SAE (inch) and those other
wierd measurement units used in the non-civilized portions
of the world.
Lord Valve
Top-Posting Asshole (choke on it, Allison...)
FRETBUZZ
Your Lordship.....
I wonder, would that be the proper UK inch... or - like most other US
variations on imperial measurements - a smaller, more compact inch?? ;-))
And in answer to BSM....if you don't have a drill press but do have a hand
held drill, an assortment of twist drills (High Speed Steel and preferably
sharp) ranging from 1/8" to 1/2" in about 4 or 6 stages, a small
half-round file that's about half an inch across the flat at the widest part
and plenty of patience, you can do each hole to an exact fit in turn - I did
this for the first band I was in when I made a patch bay for the amp and
speakon connections to the PA out of a 5mm thick 1u rack blanking plate.
Regards
Fretbuzz
"Lord Valve" <detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:3F562574...@ix.netcom.com...
oldsoundguy
wrote:
>
>Your Lordship.....
>
>I wonder, would that be the proper UK inch... or - like most other US
>variations on imperial measurements - a smaller, more compact inch?? ;-))
>
>And in answer to BSM....if you don't have a drill press but do have a hand
>held drill, an assortment of twist drills (High Speed Steel and preferably
>sharp) ranging from 1/8" to 1/2" in about 4 or 6 stages, a small
>half-round file that's about half an inch across the flat at the widest part
>and plenty of patience, you can do each hole to an exact fit in turn - I did
>this for the first band I was in when I made a patch bay for the amp and
>speakon connections to the PA out of a 5mm thick 1u rack blanking plate.
>
>Regards
>
Greenlee punches are the way to go. They come in standard sizes to
match the connector bodies .. but you will still need to pre drill a
pilot hole for the punch, and drill the holes for the pop riviets.
Best and cheapest is to get an attachment that turns a hand power
drill into a drill press (about 20 dollars US - get one big enough to
use on a 1/2 " drill) and to create some wooden jigs to hold the
panels into positon (investment in some spring clamps and c clamps
will help. I made ALL of my panels that way .. and it becomes easier
as you get more familiar with the procedure. I even built a jig to
hold a 5 1/4 panel so I could use a fly cutter to cut holes for fans!!
BSM
"oldsoundguy" <soun...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:cvfclvkoouudjc3bt...@4ax.com...
Can i buy Greenlee punches off the net?
anyone give me a link?
BSM
oldsoundguy
Here you are .. not the best of prices, but you can do a google search
and maybe beat the prices:
http://www.grainger.com/production/info/granger-catalog.htm when you
get there type "greenlee punch " (without the quotes) into the search
box.
GK
"oldsoundguy" <soun...@worldnet.att.net> wrote
>. I even built a jig to
> hold a 5 1/4 panel so I could use a fly cutter to cut holes for fans!!
And I used a 5 inch hole saw. It was a slow go. I think I could have scribed
a line and cut it with a jigsaw faster.
GK
George Gleason
"GK" <NOSPA...@rose.net> wrote in message
news:vld0bp1...@corp.supernews.com...
use a hole saw with lots of cutting lube
if it is a thin panel I will sandwich it between two pieces of ply
this also works for cutting holes in foam with a hole saw
George
Richard Crowley
> anyone know the best way to cut the correct size holes
> into this quickly and easily. i have the drill for the fixing
> holes (im riviting them) but i need to cut the correct width
> holes for the conectors.
I agree with the consensus: Greenlee punches. Used them
all my life. Any other method seems kludgy and primative
to me. YMMV.
Availability depends on who/where you are. Most large towns
that have electrical supply distributors sell them. Most likely
available in several places online as well. Google is your friend.
Note that there are several series beyond Imperial and Metric.
The ones that are specified in fractional inches are most often
used for electronics fabrication.
> what is the correct size hole for
> XLR?
Female = 15/16 inch (i.e. Switchcraft D3F)
Male = 3/4 inch (i.e. Switchcraft D3M)
I have Greenlee punches in these sizes specifically
for the purpose of making XLR holes.
Note that other brands (i.e. Neutrik, etc.) use
slightly different sizes.
> Jack?
If you mean a "1/4 inch phone" jack
The panel mount hole is 3/8 inch
I use a simple drill for these.
> Speakon?
You must specify which one you mean.
There are at least two different sizes, possibly more.
Greenlee punches almost certainly available in any
size required by Speakon connectors of any variety.
> IEC?
To me, "IEC" means the international standard rectangular
power receptacle like the kind on computers and much pro
audio equipment.
1 3/16 inch wide by 7/8 inch high with 3/16 inch radius corners.
Mine have mounting holes on 1 9/16 inch centers.
Since I don't do that many, I drill four 3/8 inch
holes in a rectangle and cut away the material
inbetween.
paul
> >> Greenlee punches are the way to go. They come in standard sizes to
> >> match the connector bodies .. but you will still need to pre drill a
> >> pilot hole for the punch, and drill the holes for the pop riviets.
> >
> >BSM
> get there type "greenlee punch " (without the quotes) into the search
> box.
Gotta throw in my two cents. No doubt about it Greenlee punches, a
whole set if you can afford them.
Let me just say ....just use them once and you will never and I mean
never do it any other way!!
And I agree, use pop rivets. Easy to drill out for changes, hold like
a damn and you won't have to deal with unscrewing TINY nuts and
washers that ALWAYS fall onto power strip sockets, in the dark! PITA
Paul
Angel Sound
Lac La Biche Alberta
Jason Lavoie
>use a hole saw with lots of cutting lube
>if it is a thin panel I will sandwich it between two pieces of ply
>
>this also works for cutting holes in foam with a hole saw
>George
for cutting foam, run the hole saw backwards! as long as it is
somewhat sharp it works like a dream. and doesn't catch on the foam.
Jason
nmm
>XLR?
>
>Jack?
>
>Speakon?
>
>IEC?
>
You need a Greenlee 15/16" punch
Drill a small hole, enough to get the punch bolt through .. and then use
the punch to make a 15/16th" hole.. align the mounting screws using the box
mount connector.
The small box mount speakons are the same size.
Jack? You mean 1/4" phone jack?
Get the neutriks one and it too is the same size.. also locks
IEC? wich one is that?
oldsoundguy
My trick for cuttin foam rubber (like for a mic case) is basicly the
same BUT .. take the foam and saturate it with water... take those two
pieces of plywood the exact size and place the foam between .. and
clamp down with c clamps. place the thing in the freezer (if you have
a large freezer) Let freeze rock solid. take it out and with your
template overlay on the foam .. cut it with the extended hole saw.
then let it expand and dry out. You will have perfectly smooth holes
in the foam!!
George Gleason
some great ideas, thanks
george
Lord Valve
Richard Crowley wrote:
> "BSM" wrote ...
> > anyone know the best way to cut the correct size holes
> > into this quickly and easily. i have the drill for the fixing
> > holes (im riviting them) but i need to cut the correct width
> > holes for the conectors.
>
> I agree with the consensus: Greenlee punches. Used them
> all my life. Any other method seems kludgy and primative
> to me. YMMV.
Hey, there, Sparky - a set of two Unibits is a *great* thing to
have around the shop. Cheap, reliable, and they produce
*excellent* results. Shit, yeah, I have punches out the ass,
but those step-drills see a lot of action, especially when
I'm in a hurry. After all, if we had a race, I'd be done at
the same time you were stuffing the drive screw through
your pilot hole - right? I use the Unibits for most of my
audio fabrication chores, with the punches reserved
for *really* important stuff - like tube sockets and Leslie
connectors. ;-)
Lord Valve
Expert
Lord Valve
GK wrote:
Or sprained wrists. ;-)
LV
Richard Crowley
> Hey, there, Sparky - a set of two Unibits is a *great* thing to
> have around the shop. Cheap, reliable, and they produce
> *excellent* results.
How do they hold up in the long term?
It looked to me like the "sizes" that were used all the time
would get dull after drilling metal for a while and likely difficult/
impossible to sharpen(?) Or do you just toss them and buy new?
"Sparky"
Lord Valve
Richard Crowley wrote:
I've dogged the shit outa mine for years. Of course, I use
cutting oil, and I have an excellent drill press. I believe
Klein will sharpen them if you send 'em in and pay some sort
of fee; probably there's a tool and die shop somewhere
in my city that can do it. They're HSS, not carbide - shouldn't
be that big of a deal. The only thing that happens to mine is
that when I do a lot of aluminum a residue piles up on the steps -
gotta peel it off with a razor blade or file it off with a needle
file.
LV
GK
Here you go:
http://www.tapmagic.com/TMaluminum.htm
This stuff is the shit for cutting and threading aluminum. NO buildup on the
cutting tool with it.
GK
Lord Valve
GK wrote:
Hey, thanks - I'll check it out. I've been using bacon grease.
(don't laugh - old time machinists swear by hog drippins
for aluminum...) and it works fine - doesn't stop build-up on
the bits, though.
Lord Valve
Asshole
FRETBUZZ
I remember back in the days when I was an apprentice capstan lathe setter
(mid to late 70's), some operators who were cutting threads in stainless
steel, using die-heads, also liberally coated the workpiece and the die
chasers in tallow which is an animal (hard fat from horses, cattle, sheep
etc) by-product. I have no doubt that even in this day and age of synthetic
lubricants someone somewhere will still use the good old methods and lubes
because they are the best .
I bet the bacon fat smells better though....
Regards
Fretbuzz
His 'Lard' ship quoth:
GK
"FRETBUZZ" <fretb...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bjg5e3$h23$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> Lord Valve....
> I remember back in the days when I was an apprentice capstan lathe setter
> (mid to late 70's), some operators who were cutting threads in stainless
> steel, using die-heads, also liberally coated the workpiece and the die
> chasers in tallow which is an animal (hard fat from horses, cattle, sheep
> etc) by-product. I have no doubt that even in this day and age of
synthetic
> lubricants someone somewhere will still use the good old methods and lubes
> because they are the best .
>
> I bet the bacon fat smells better though....
>
> Regards
>
> Fretbuzz
Just about all of the copper wire in the world was drawn through the dies in
a lubricant made from a tallow/soap solution.
GK
André Huisman
> In the past i have always used prepunched plates for holding my connectors
> on amp racks etc. but i have had an idea for a plate i want to have
multipul
> connectors on (8 speakon,8 XLR, 2 Jack and 1 IEC plug. the plate i have
got
> is a 4U black plate (powder coated)
Do yourself a favor and get the pre-punched versions. 1 and 2 RU come
readily available (8 or 12 holes in 1 RU).
> what is the correct size hole for
>
> XLR?
D-type: 24mm.
> Jack?
D-type: 24mm.
> Speakon?
D-type: 24mm. (2 and 4 pole only).
> IEC?
Move to PowerCon: D-type: 24mm.
--
André Huisman
New-Line licht & geluid
hui...@new-line.nl
http://www.new-line.nl
--- pardon my French, I'm Dutch ---
BSM
"André Huisman" <see_pos...@il.ok> wrote in message
news:bk5gj4$vt6$1...@news1.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...
> "BSM" <bsm...@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>
> > In the past i have always used prepunched plates for holding my
connectors
> > on amp racks etc. but i have had an idea for a plate i want to have
> multipul
> > connectors on (8 speakon,8 XLR, 2 Jack and 1 IEC plug. the plate i have
> got
> > is a 4U black plate (powder coated)
>
> Do yourself a favor and get the pre-punched versions. 1 and 2 RU come
> readily available (8 or 12 holes in 1 RU).
Problem with pre punched ones is that they dont meet my requirements. and
there expensive. if i want a 1U strip of 6 xlr, 2 IEC and 2 speakon, i have
to make my own. no wear produces pre punched like this.
>
> > what is the correct size hole for
> >
> > XLR?
>
> D-type: 24mm.
>
> > Jack?
>
> D-type: 24mm.
>
> > Speakon?
>
> D-type: 24mm. (2 and 4 pole only).
>
> > IEC?
>
> Move to PowerCon: D-type: 24mm.
Powercon - i wouldnt trust them, not double insulated, not realy much good
for mains. i use them for carrying a DC current sometimes, but nothing more.
Joe Kotroczo
<bsm...@btopenworld.com> a écrit :
> Problem with pre punched ones is that they dont meet my requirements. and
> there expensive. if i want a 1U strip of 6 xlr, 2 IEC and 2 speakon, i have
> to make my own. no wear produces pre punched like this.
Penn Fabrication. If I remember correctly they even do "modular" prepunched
faceplates...
>>> IEC?
>>
>> Move to PowerCon: D-type: 24mm.
> Powercon - i wouldnt trust them, not double insulated, not realy much good
> for mains. i use them for carrying a DC current sometimes, but nothing more.
Many manufacturers seem to adopt them lately. And apparently the Mark II
Powercons are better then the first ones. What do you mean by "double
insulated"?
Joe
Hubert Barth
>Problem with pre punched ones is that they dont meet my requirements. and
>there expensive. if i want a 1U strip of 6 xlr, 2 IEC and 2 speakon, i have
>to make my own. no wear produces pre punched like this.
I did a quick websearch around here and found 1 U strips with 8. 10,
http://www.kotec.de/xlr_1.html
and 12 holes.
http://www.koppicases.de/shop1/shop.php?SID?&cat=Rackblenden&pg=shop
Prices start at around 5 quid.
I Bet you could find something in the US as easily.
regards
--
Hubert Barth
Cologne/Germany
http://www.bigbands.de
Tim Padrick
connectors - rated 20a@240v. Also use Neutrix D series XLRs. XLR male, XLR
female, NL4 speakon, and PowerCon all fit in the same hole. You can get a
1U panel punched for 12 of them for $8 to $12.
"Hubert Barth" <hubert...@netcologne.de> wrote in message
news:bk74j0$als$1...@newsreader2.netcologne.de...
ShLampen
sell through many distributors in the US, including Newark
(www.newarkinone.com). I used them a lot when I had a REAL job (broadcast
installer). The secret is to use a drill press to start an accurate hole, and
move up in drill sizes until you are at the size of the bolt in the punch.
Then a crescent wrench or a rachet and, pop, the hole is done!
The other secret is to get the SPECIFIC ACCURATE hole dimensions from the
manufacturer (Neutrik, Switchcraft etc.) and don't ASSUME anything (like that
the male and female jacks are the same size hole.)
Hope this helps!
Steve Lampen
Belden Electronics Division