I used a spray on heavy duty permanent photomount which smells like
evostick.I think it was made by 3M.
The best way to apply it is not to spray it directly to the grill, but
to spray a quantity into a tray of some kind then apply it to the metal
grill with a roller (I use a rubber roller for mounting photographs)
That way you dont get it on the front of the grill or get 'webs' across
the perforations. let it go off a bit before you offer up the foam.
I use spray contact cement. Brush on can work, but is much harder to
apply to foam, spray goes on easily. There are different types of
contact cement, I prefer solvent based (over water based) as it is
more predictable and seems to hold better. (Also easier to use).
Spraying adhesive on the foam sounds to me like you could reduce airflow
thru the foam...
I really think it would be better to apply the adhesive to the metal. That
way the open areas receive no adhesive.
Ron
3M makes a Velcro-like product designed to grab sheet foam for the
upholstery industry, and if I knew the number I'd 'post it' ;-)
I bought 50m of it for something like $40 quite a while ago, it works
quite well for grilles and I still have quite a bit left. Try a local
reupholstering shop, especially one that does car seats, they might sell
pieces.
I use velcro
george
>
>"PeterD" <pet...@hipson.net> wrote in message
>news:bmihb5l4t93tg5103...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 04:24:47 -0700 (PDT), lewdslewrate
>> <steve...@waitrose.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Hi....is there a bespoke/prefered/recomended adhesive brand for fixing
>>>acoustic foam to metal grilles. I am attempting to refurbish an l-
>>>acoustic mtd rig. cheers. (a uk supply prefered)
>>
>> I use spray contact cement. Brush on can work, but is much harder to
>> apply to foam, spray goes on easily. There are different types of
>> contact cement, I prefer solvent based (over water based) as it is
>> more predictable and seems to hold better. (Also easier to use).
>
>Spraying adhesive on the foam sounds to me like you could reduce airflow
>thru the foam...
>
I don't think you will see much air flow on teh back side where it is
attached, unless I misunderstand the sutiation. Spraying contact
cement allows you to limit the amount used, and contact cement is
relatively flexible.
>I really think it would be better to apply the adhesive to the metal. That
>way the open areas receive no adhesive.
>
Contact cement is applied to both surfaces, allowed to 'dry' slightly
then the surfaces are mated.
with glue , replacing ripped foam is a chore of scraping all the old foam
off
a few small velcro tabs and replacment is a no brainer
double sided carpet tape works also works well
George
Yes, that is the proper way to apply contact cement.
Standard application is to apply a thin coat, wait 10 mins, apply 2nd coat,
wait 5 mins, stick together by applying pressure.
When I say "thin", I mean just that.
--
Steve <snip> McQ
?????
Do you understand how speakers work?
That statement makes absolutely zero sense.
A speaker is an air pump.
Did I miss something?, I thought this thread was about attaching grill foam
to a expanded steel grill
George
He mentioned the name of a speaker manufacturer in the original post...so
maybe I assumed incorrectly that it was a speaker grill?
A speaker has to pump air thru the grill right?
If it's not a speaker grill, never mind.
On the inside, the foam is generally thinner and mainly for appearance
and to keep dust out so doesn't need to be permanently bonded to the
metal grill, a few well placed velcro dots would work in many cases,
lots of velcro strip might look unsightly from the front. EV used to use
little plastic buttons with spire clips which are fine till the foam rots!
However, the OP's question was what and where, So this is what I last
used for fixing an internal foam, I`m sure it would do for external foam
also. It also works for sticking tatty ratfur back down!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-Display-permanent-adhesive-aerosol/dp/B000JTKC4G
I`m sure there are many similar products.
IMHO
Ron
I realized after that I may have mis-read or mis-understood the
original post. Regardless spray contact cement is still a good choice
if used properly. 3M makes both a pernament variety, and a type that
can be removed easily. Both stay very flexible after 'drying' as well,
and by spraying won't get much except on the surface of the
foam--assuming that the person applying it doesn't go overboard! <g>
I did not (apparently) understand exactly where the OP was applying
the foam, which is why I responded the way I did. Regardless contact
adheasive is flexible and properly applied would likely work well for
his application, but I suspect the velcro suggestions may be more of
what he is looking for.
I suspect it's my bad here. He's damping the metal, not trying to cover it
with a foam grill.
Several companies back in the old day ran foam grills on top of the
metal...in that case you certainly would not want to spray the entire foam
grill.
my Meyers use two systems
on the upa's the poam is quite stiff and located behind the grill
on the msl3's the foam is front mounted and just graps into a hook strip,
similar to the hard part of the velcro
as I bought these all used I do not know if this was what meyer designed or
added afterwards by a previous owner
George
The problem with spraying the grill is that the adhesive air dries very
quickly and you'll likely get strings of adhesive where it sprays
through the perforations (I know, I`ve done it!)
I guess it doesn't matter too much if the foam is on the outside, but
it`s still messy to clean off.
I personally wouldn`t spray the foam, just the grill. It sticks well
enough to not need both surfaces treating. IME
Ron
Now that _is_ a useful looking product.
Ron
> George's Pro Sound Co. wrote:
>> "liquidator" <mi...@mad.scientist.com> wrote in message
>> news:h9d54p$n6k$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>>> Several companies back in the old day ran foam grills
>>> on top of the metal...in that case you certainly would
>>> not want to spray the entire foam grill.
The whole idea of foam grilles seems so 60's. I think we've learned that
over a decade or more, many polyurethane foams crack and crumble.
>> If the goal is dampening the metal, a product like this
>> would be more in order
>> http://www.plastidip.com/industrial_solutions/Plasti_Dip
>> George
> Now that _is_ a useful looking product.
If you want to find out the most efficient way to damp large metal panels,
you might look at how it is done in the automotive or appliance industries.
Dipping is used, but generally not for that purpose.
One approach is elastomeric layers.
http://users.tamuk.edu/kfldp00/research/Papers/Vibration_damping_SAMPE_2004.pdf
Last time I took the mats up ion a car floor, there was a layer of an
elastic material that looked like it was laid on in a sheet, covered with
carpet padding, and then the carpeting. It was very effective. Padding gets
added effectiveness by being a little loose, and absorbing energy as it
moves around just a bit.
WOW arii , that would be great info IF SOMEONE WAS BUILDING A CAR PANEL
do you know the diffrence between a car panel and a speaker grill,
rehtorical question
of course you don't
get lost you asshole
you have worn out your day pass here
you will never get any peace at aapls
now GTFO
George
>
>
>
And there goes another useful thread, now destroyed by a lack of meds.
---Jeff
Much like that engineering degree you crow so much about having which you
still insist is relevant today, even in live sound.
Phildo
Arnikins is so old and senile he forgot foam grilles were 70's.
JBL Century's were 1974. Arnikins forgot to Google efficiently.
Let's see, he's an incompetent sound engineer who can't even Google
well....
Why is he even posting? Oh yeah, his huge ego, I forgot.
The original poster asked about an L'Acoustics MTD. That's a wedge. As in a
stage monitor. Coax. Metal grille, with foam on the outside.
The idea of NOT having any foam on them seems so, eh, stupid.
Oh well, what else did you expect from Arny?
Phildo