Crown CE2000 no output - what happened?
Joseph Theriault
Nice beefy sub-woofer amp - Crown CE2000
I did a show - sounded great - no failures.
Put the amp on the shelf.
Next show - set up the system - no output.
Getting plenty of input signal according to the LEDs on front.
I wondered if there was an output wiring problem (Neutrik connectors),
which is a bad guess because I used the same cables. But, I checked
anyway - looks good to me. I also measured for output (DVM) testing
every possible combination with the 4 contacts - nothing!
Before I send this out for out-of-warrantee rapairs, is there anything
simple or obvious that I can check?
1. Some internal fuses that perhaps are blown? (I know they'd be blown
for a reason)
2. Some internal connector or contact that has come apart? Maybe this
amp has some known design flaws or weaknesses?
3. Some common failure that I am unaware of?
Hey it's blown obviously!
I'm Just trying not to overlook the obvious before I pull out my wallet.
Crown audio gets $70 per hour (plus parts I imagine).
I wish I knew how many hours was typical for the average repair before I
send it in.
Any experience out there?
Thanks
Joe T from Connecticut
Chester
a few repairs. The tech has told us that the volume controls are suceptible
to coming loose. We had to have ours replaced just now in a CE2000. From
what they say, if you have any tech knowledge/ability, they are pretty easy
to swap in. Crown is good about sending parts for these.
I'm not saying that for sure is your problem, but I've been told it's a
weakness and experienced it myself.
Good luck with however you get it fixed!
Chester
"Joseph Theriault" <joseph.t...@uconn.edu> wrote in message
news:40E47AB8...@uconn.edu...
Mike
>
> Nice beefy sub-woofer amp - Crown CE2000
> I did a show - sounded great - no failures.
> Put the amp on the shelf.
>
> Next show - set up the system - no output.
> Getting plenty of input signal according to the LEDs on front.
> I wondered if there was an output wiring problem (Neutrik
> connectors), which is a bad guess because I used the same
> cables. But, I checked anyway - looks good to me. I also
> measured for output (DVM) testing every possible
> combination with the 4 contacts - nothing!
>
> Before I send this out for out-of-warrantee rapairs, is there
> anything simple or obvious that I can check?
> 1. Some internal fuses that perhaps are blown? (I know they'd
> be blown for a reason)
> 2. Some internal connector or contact that has come apart?
> Maybe this amp has some known design flaws or weaknesses?
> 3. Some common failure that I am unaware of?
>
> Hey it's blown obviously!
> I'm Just trying not to overlook the obvious before I pull out my wallet.
Pop the top and check it out. Be careful though as the capacitors in
there might still be holding a charge.
> Crown audio gets $70 per hour (plus parts I imagine).
> I wish I knew how many hours was typical for the average
> repair before I send it in.
Yes parts are extra. =) Crown's service department is very good. They
also know the amp and have the parts on hand to repair it quickly.
To send it in for repair you can go to their web site and get a return
authorization number there to send it in, don't even have to pick up the
phone. http://www.crownaudio.com/support/factserv.htm Bear in mind they
recommend that you ship the amp in the original box...
Mike Borkhuis
Audio Images Sound & Lighting, Inc
www.audioimagesonline.com
Joseph Theriault
I noticed that the Input LED's still flashed even when I turned down the input
attenuators. That means the LEDs are before the attenuator. The attenuator on
the other hand, is probably in the signal path, although I don't have
schematics. It is unlikely to have the same problem on both channels at the
same time, but I will still check it.
Since both channels are affected, I should probably be looking for a failure
that is common to both channels. Maybe something is just not letting the output
stage turn on. If so, I won't have to buy those expensive output transistors
;-)
There is no smell whatsoever, and this amp did not fail during service.
I can smell a fried transistor or transformer a mile away - there's no smell.
Thanks Chester.
Joe T from Connecticut
Chad Wahls
> I can smell a fried transistor or transformer a mile away - there's no
smell.
>
If you can smell a shorted metal case transistor a mile away I've got a job
open for you :)
Do the relay's click that connect the output to the left channel? If not
then it is indeed in protect. I f it's an earlier CE series it will need
modifications, there's a lot. If it's newer than most of the bugs are
ironed out. If you REALLY trusted yourself you can read the DC voltage on
the output inductor to ground. If there's anything significant the amp will
stay in protect.
Best bet overall is get it to a service center. Crown has many and
sometimes they get backlogged over there, albeit they are usually pretty
quick.
Chad
Average User
I have seen a few discolored ones, but not in this application.
I spoke with another tech friend and he urged me to send it to Crown for the
upgrades. He said they were reasonable, fast, and had the various pc boards on
the shelf for fast upgrade (it looks like an old amp). He also said they could
identify the age and revision by the serial number, thus knowing which upgrades
it needs and how much the average repair bill would be. Even if I got lucky
and fixed this thing, I'm in no position to do the upgrades without
documentation, parts and experience.
I'll check those relays just for my own curiosity, but this thing is going in
for upgrade.
Some of those protection circuits look like the inside of an op-amp (yikes).
I borrowed a big fat QSC amp to use in the mean time.
I'll post the results of the repair and price the when I get it back.
Thanks Chad
Joe T from Connecticut
Chad Wahls
"Average User" <jther...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:40E7EB0A...@cox.net...
He also said they could
> identify the age and revision by the serial number, thus knowing which
upgrades
> it needs and how much the average repair bill would be.
There is a 4 digit number with the SN that is the date code. 0064 would be
June 2004, 9129 Would be December of 1999. This is for all crown amps made
in the Elkhart factory, I'm not sure about the imports.
Chad
Joseph Theriault
Cheers!
Joe T