Peavey PS2 Crossover Repair

[tle4]

I just got a couple of extra amps and a digital crossover from a friend to
see how our setup would sound with a tri amp setup. We found one of the
crossovers was not working in the low input on one of the speakers. It works
fine when we plug into the Full range and the high jack works. It is just
the low tha is not working..

Anyone know what may be the problem with the crossover?Anyone know where I
can get a schematic or a parts list for them? What is the going rate to have
them rebuilt i I was to take them somewhere?

The Crossovers are:
Peavey SP2 Precision Transducers
Max Power 150 watts average continuos RMS
Impedence 8ohms
Crossover 800mh

[Tim Perry]

"tle4" <****@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:BlRGi.774$Yb2.109@trndny08...

Peavey has a handy site to find the nearest repair location
http://www.peavey.com/support/contactinfo/

It could be as simple as a broken wire or solder connection to the jack.

[Chris Kidd]

"Tim Perry" <timp...@nospammeadelphia.net> wrote in message
news:46ec1a2a$0$8068$4c36...@roadrunner.com...

Hi,

Those 1/4" bi-amp jacks are notorious for failing. The jacks will likely
need replacing. Sometimes you can clean them and they'll work for a little
while.

Even better is to bypass the crossover and mount a speakon jack in the back
of the cabinet wired to the components and use a 4 pole double throw switch
to switch the drivers between the internal crossover outs and the speakon
input if you still need to occasionally use them full range.

[tle4]

Chris.... Thanks... I was thinking about just adding jacks somewhere else.
Is there anywhere with a diagram that would show me how to wire it up with
the 4pdt switch and speakon connectors?

"Chris Kidd" <chris...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:H8CdnRs2HNhtz3Hb...@comcast.com...

[Chris Kidd]

Hi,

On the back of the crossover are usually 2 molex connectors: one for the
high frequency with red and black twisted wires and one for the woofer with
yellow and blue twisted wires. In some cabinets this color code may be
reversed so make sure which cable is going to which driver.

I drilled a hole and mounted the switch in the upper right hand corner of
the crossover/input panel cup. Just enough room for the switch and it is
somewhat protected by the cup's recess.

I drilled another hole through the wood below the crossover/input panel cup
for the Speakon NL-4 panel mount connector. For that I prefer to use the
round body style flange which allows for attaching to the wood with 3
screws.(as opposed to the rectangular one which is for plate mounting) You
could use one mounted to a plate if preferred.
Solder 4 wires to the speakon contacts (1+,1-,2+2-) long enough to reach up
to the crossover and switch area. Leave enough length so either the
connector or crossover can be removed for service.
The standard for bi-amping is 1+ 1-( Low), 2+ 2- (High).

Please note that it will not be possible to use the speakon for full range
operation in this scenario. It is strictly for biamping. Also any HF
protection which might exist in the internal crossover is also bypassed.

Before going any farther note that you will have to have additional # 14
stranded wire to make a pigtail from the speakon jack up to the switch
position.

Wiring is as follows:

(1) (4) (7) (10) [Source 1 -Internal X over]
(2) (5) (8) (11) [ Common Poles -Drivers]
(3) (6) (9) (12) [Source 2 - Speakon Input]

(1) Yellow from crossover molex low +
(2) Yellow to woofer +
(3) Wire to Speakon 1+
(4) Blue from crossover molex low -
(5) Blue to woofer -
(6) Wire to Speakon 1-
(7) Red from crossover molex High +
(8) Red to 22xt High Driver +
(9) Wire to Speakon 2+
(10) Black from crossover molex High -
(11) Black to 22xt High Driver -
(12) Wire to Speakon 2-

I would use a fairly heavy duty Four Pole Double Throw (4PDT) (ON-ON)
switch with at least 10 amp contacts. A variation has a center off position
as well (ON-OFF-ON). Either version will work The pole numbers on your
particular switch may not match the numbers in my diagram. Each of the 4
poles is independent of the others but they share a common handle.
(2) selects (1) or (3); (5) selects either (4) or (6); (8) selects (7) or
(9); (11) selects either (10) or (12).

Remove the crossover from the cabinet. Remove the molex connectors noting
where and in which direction they were connected on the circuit board.
Select the switch location and drill a hole for the switch based on its
shaft diameter.
Attach the switch.

Cut the cables after the molex connectors leaving the wire length just long
enough to reach up to the switch. After I did this I still had enough wire
from the drivers to make it to the switch to be soldered. Worst case
scenario -You might have to replace the wires going to the woofer and
tweeter if they're not long enough. Woofer should connect with bare wires to
spring terminals and tweeter will use push on crimps. Check your wiring and
solder all connections . Test carefully to make sure the correct amplifier
signal is going to the correct driver.

Thanks,

Chris

"tle4" <****@verizon.net> wrote in message

news:PHYGi.1535$Ij2.330@trndny06...

[Tle]

Thanks,
That helped alot
Tom

"Chris Kidd" <chris...@comcast.net> wrote in message

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