jb
Seems to me you've got a gummed up carb that just may need some cleaning.
Good luck !
"Hannibal" <jleinweber@*nospam*lycos.com> wrote in message
news:gw0Hc.65$Sc....@news1.mts.net...
1) The valves were out of adjustment. This caused low compression when cold.
After getting it started and warmed up, it ran fine. But it was real tough
to start. After adjusting the valves I had much more compression and it
started easier.
2) The choke on the carb is essentially a passage that adds extra fuel to
the mixture, rather than the conventional butterfly to reduce air intake.
The passageway for this extra fuel, which runs inside the side of the carb
bowl, was clogged up. This prevented the extra fuel from flowing and thus
prevented the choke from working. I took a small drill bit and cleaned out
the passage. For what it's worth, mine does have the little black button,
which you must pull out in order activate the choke. If the black button is
in, it prevents the choke from activating. I assume this is to keep the
choke from coming on by accident when riding.
3) For some reason I've yet to determine, my quad runs rich. I've tried
adjusting everything (mixture, needle, etc.). Because of this, it fouls
plugs fairly often. If I have a hard time starting it, I now know to clean
the plug, and it starts immediately.
Hope this helps,
Rich
"Hannibal" <jleinweber@*nospam*lycos.com> wrote in message
news:CaGGc.92$UT6...@news1.mts.net...
I have cleaned the carb, and in doing so, noticed that I need a new main
jet. But also, in doing some preliminary checks, have noticed that I have
low compression when cold. How do you go about checking the valves? I have
a Clymer manual for it, so I would assume that it would cover it. Is it a
hard job to do? When I spoke to a Suzuki mechanic, he figured about an hour
worth of labour in a shop would do it.
Thanks,
Jeff
"Rich Burkett" <rbur...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:bK6dnZu_4oC...@adelphia.com...
I have the Clymer manual too, and it does cover the valves. There are
simply two caps on the head cover that permit access to the valves.
Probably the hardest part is getting the engine to rest at top dead center.
The manual says to remove the pull starter to enable you to turn the engine
with a ratchet, but I was able to use the pull starter to get it at TDC. An
hour sounds about right for the job.
Good luck,
Rich
"Hannibal" <jleinweber@*nospam*lycos.com> wrote in message
news:L7lIc.941$Sc....@news1.mts.net...
Another thought comes to mind... How about your compression? Is it up
to specs? If the rings get worn and compression drops, the air pull
thru the carb isn't going to be as strong, leaning it out some...
Wingnut