Just purchased a 2000 Polaris Magnum 325 4x4 with a blown engine. I
can readily get a replacement engine from a 2004 Polaris Magnum 330
4X4.
After looking at the specs, it looks like the engine would fit with no
problems.
Question to the experienced Polaris mechanic/buff is:
Is this too good to be true?
If it is not as simple as I'm thinking, how much refurbing would be
involved?
I would appreciate any and all tips before I buy the 330 engine.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Paul
Spdloader
"Magnum" <pepel...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1123501550.0...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
"Spdloader" <askf...@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:JEIJe.86022$oj4.2...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Measure the mount points, check the carb is the same, everthing else.
You may just luck out nicely. I can't promise anything though.
Maybe a local Polaris shop could help with that question as well.
Mike
I did send an email to a local polaris shop , but have not heard back.
The worldofpowersports.com microfiche is were my plan started hatching.
My only problem now is that I am now skeptical about the 330 I planned
on purchasing. I asked why he is selling and here is the reply:
"...the engine was replaced with another unit under warenty the
mechanic told me to take the old one for a spare this thing is brand
new vary small oil leak minor repair but the bike was brand new so they
just put a new one in to ease my mind
it is at my friends barn i can get pics but not till tom evening same
for the part number."
What do you guys think? Being new to Polaris, is this customary?
Seems fishy to me!
Thanks again,
Paul
The 330 didn't have a radiator, but had an oil cooler setup. I don't know
about the 325 in that way.
Mine never let me down in any way, it was as reliable as I could have wanted
it to be.
But, while it will climb like a mountain goat, don't expect much in the
speed department. I never got it above 40mph.
Spdloader
"Magnum" <pepel...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1123595440.6...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
That being said, depending on the price it still might be worthwhile.
I've done deals like this before and here's how I usually do it:
1) Inspect engine for evidence of major crankcase leaks
2) Look inside of cylinder on exhaust and intake side (if possible) to
make sure there are no signs of seizing
3) Check oil for excessive filings, then make sure engine turns by hand
and you can feel air pressure (out of the spark plug hole) when piston
reaches Top dead centre. If there is no oil.. put some in before you
even leave his premises, then drain it out and inspect for filings
and/or metal chunks.
4) Offer the guy 50% of your agreed selling price and a postdated
cheque for the remainder. When you get the engine home, get it hooked
up immediately and test it (compression etc).
5) when you have tested engine is OK then pay the other 50%. If it does
not test AOK return it or cancel the cheque and part it out on Ebay to
recover your investment.
The oil leak could be leaky seals in the crankcase (probably). once
you have tested the engine, take it back out and replace seals (at very
least) and bearings if possible. If it's got an oil leak, it's likely
that it ran dry of oil and the bearings may have been compromised. If
you throw a bearing in the crankcase, you can kiss the motor goodbye
(in most cases).
I have experienced this exact scenario (thrown a bearing in a used ATV
immediately after I took possession). It was not an experience I would
like to repeat.