Polaris 325 Magnum Temp light ?

triad

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Jul 3, 2003, 8:24:24 PM7/3/03

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I have a 2000 325 4x2 and this week after doing some moderate to heavy work
the temp light came on (I have never seen it come on in three years) and has
not gone out since, after sitting at one point almost 24 hours without
starting. The fan is not coming on, I assume it is the fan in a housing by
the oil cooler rig in the lower front of the machine. This ATV has never
been what I would call worked hard by what I hear other people talk about
and as far as work the only reason it was used is that the tractor has a
flat. It is mostly just a means of riding around the farm. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

Ninebal310

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Jul 4, 2003, 12:05:57 AM7/4/03

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>From: "triad" tri...@earthlink.net

The first thing I would do is check to see if you have the proper oil
level. Then, disconnect the fan and hook it up directly to 12 volts. If it
runs, then check the temp sensor to see that it is working correctly. You may
have to take it off and put it in boiling water to see if you get continutity
thru it. Clean the oil cooler fins while you're at it.

Good luck
Hustlin' Hank

Andrew

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Jul 4, 2003, 12:36:03 AM7/4/03

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I'm willing to bet that you have a bad temperature sensor. The temp light
sensor is the one located on the engine (the one on the rad turns the fan on
and off). Disconnect the wires and test for continuity with the engine off
and cold. If there is no resistance across the terminals the sensor is bad.
I think there may be a bad batch or sensors that came out around the time
your machine was built. If there is no continuity I would check that there
is an adequate amount of coolant in the machine. Air pockets in the coolant
can cause exactly what you describe.

Andrew

"triad" <tri...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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Ninebal310

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Jul 4, 2003, 6:26:16 PM7/4/03

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>From: "Andrew"

>The temp light
>sensor is the one located on the engine (the one on the rad turns the fan on
>and off). Disconnect the wires and test for continuity with the engine off
>and cold. If there is no resistance across the terminals the sensor is bad.

This sounds wrong to me. If the engine is cold, there wouldn't be any
resistance. You only get resistance (contact/continuity) when the engine is
hot.

>I think there may be a bad batch or sensors that came out around the time
>your machine was built. If there is no continuity I would check that there
>is an adequate amount of coolant in
>the machine.
Air pockets in the coolant
>can cause exactly what you describe.
>

Again, I think the 325 is air cooled engine with an oil cooler that has a
fan. I could be wrong tho.

Hustlin' Hank

triad

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Jul 4, 2003, 7:47:25 PM7/4/03

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Thanks all for the replies, I am sure my 325 is air cooled and has an oil
cooler/fan setup . I wondered about that one too about the sensor, you would
think it would be open/cold then if it gets hot closes to activate power to
the warning light and whatever else. May wait till morning to check it as
its about 120deg. in the garage now!
"Ninebal310" <nineb...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Andrew

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Jul 5, 2003, 12:47:42 AM7/5/03

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"Ninebal310" <nineb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030704182616...@mb-m17.aol.com...

> >From: "Andrew"
>
> >The temp light
> >sensor is the one located on the engine (the one on the rad turns the fan
on
> >and off). Disconnect the wires and test for continuity with the engine
off
> >and cold. If there is no resistance across the terminals the sensor is
bad.
>
> This sounds wrong to me. If the engine is cold, there wouldn't be any
> resistance. You only get resistance (contact/continuity) when the engine
is
> hot.

Oops, my bad. What he said.

Humbly,
Andrew