Release loop - how to?
Edwin L. Curtis
I want to try shooting with a release loop this spring - easier on
serving I imagine. I talked to a "pro" at a local Dart set-up and
followed his directions on the knots - got busted in the chops after
it came undone at 3/4 draw. Question - what is the best knot to tie?
A modified Trilene (fishing line) knot or something else? Do I
install a second nock locator below arrow nock or just leave my
cushion button? Does anyone want to comment on the use of one of the
metal "D" shaped nock locator /release attachment doohickeys.
Only 129 days left to get ready!
Thanks and good shooting.
PSE LD300 @66# 25" 2213 w/100 gr TH's.
Ed Curtis "Jack of all Trades
Ohio Hunter Ed Instructor Master of None"
news.msu.edu
In article <1996May24.143912.9080@ucbeh>, Ed.C...@UC.Edu says...
Ed,
Make two half hitches, then a loop, then two more half hitches. Melt each
end of the rope so that you have nice fat knobs on each end and make sure
when you tie the knots that the knobs are pulled flush with the knots.
That should get ya' going.
--
Terry M. Trier
Visiting Research Associate
University of Turku
Finland
tr...@pilot.msu.edu
James Dodd
In article <1996May24.143912.9080@ucbeh>, Ed.C...@UC.Edu (Edwin L. Curtis) writes:
> I want to try shooting with a release loop this spring - easier on
> serving I imagine. I talked to a "pro" at a local Dart set-up and
> followed his directions on the knots - got busted in the chops after
> it came undone at 3/4 draw. Question - what is the best knot to tie?
> A modified Trilene (fishing line) knot or something else? Do I
> install a second nock locator below arrow nock or just leave my
> cushion button? Does anyone want to comment on the use of one of the
> metal "D" shaped nock locator /release attachment doohickeys.
>
> Only 129 days left to get ready!
> Thanks and good shooting.
> PSE LD300 @66# 25" 2213 w/100 gr TH's.
> Ed Curtis "Jack of all Trades
> Ohio Hunter Ed Instructor Master of None"
>
I'd tend to stay away from those metal d loops, they add weight to the center of the string and may cause string to rest interference. I tie my loop with a clove hitch. there was a good diagram in a back issue of 3-D and target guide a few years ago.
try one of the new 3-D books by larry wise or Kirk Ethridge or one of the other top pros.
james
James Bridges
In article <1996May24.143912.9080@ucbeh>
Ed.C...@UC.Edu (Edwin L. Curtis) writes:
> I want to try shooting with a release loop this spring - easier on
> serving I imagine. I talked to a "pro" at a local Dart set-up and
> followed his directions on the knots - got busted in the chops after
> it came undone at 3/4 draw.
Smarts a bit don't it? I took two shots to the jaw when the string
became worn internally; the outside looked fine but the inner strands
broke and the outer layers slipped through the release jaws. Did you
have trouble finding the arrow? It's hard to watch where it goes when
all you can see is stars...
Question - what is the best knot to tie?
> A modified Trilene (fishing line) knot or something else? Do I
> install a second nock locator below arrow nock or just leave my
> cushion button? Does anyone want to comment on the use of one of the
> metal "D" shaped nock locator /release attachment doohickeys.
This last weekend I broke down and bought one of those doohickeys--the
T.R.U. Nok model in fact. I looked at another brand but it had more
screws and more $s. The T.R.U. Nok has only two screws and works well.
There are several good points to this type of release attachment: (1)
the string goes through the nock square so it won't fall off
accidentally, (2) your peep doesn't twist as much, (3) it makes it easy
to tune the nock point up and down (screws instead of spreading and
crimping a nockset), and of course less string wear. In paper tuning,
it increased my repeatability so much it didn't take many arrows at
each setting to determine where I was off. In short, my experience has
been completely positive; well-worth the $17 bucks I shelled out after
wacking myself in the face using a cheap release loop. I'm confident
that this type of attachment will become standard equipment in the next
few years for release shooters.
James Bridges
Cleveland, OH, USA
By day: aeroacoustics researcher at NASA Lewis Research Center
By night: mad scientist
Quote: Turbulence is a point of view.
Larry Adam
>
> In article <1996May24.143912.9080@ucbeh>, Ed.C...@UC.Edu says...
> >
> >I want to try shooting with a release loop this spring - easier on
> >serving I imagine. I talked to a "pro" at a local Dart set-up and
> >followed his directions on the knots - got busted in the chops after
> >A modified Trilene (fishing line) knot or something else? Do I
> >install a second nock locator below arrow nock or just leave my
> >cushion button? Does anyone want to comment on the use of one of the
works real well. With a short bow and rather long draw length for the
bow, this nocking point setup prevents the arrow from being pulled off
the string due to the extreme angle of the string at full draw. They
also allow the release to be inline with the nock rather than below it.
I'm hesitant to try one myself due the fact that I shoot at 73 lbs. and
I'm not sure what if any, maximum poundage is recommended for this type
nocking point. They are machine aluminum and attach with small plates
and four screws.
kat...@cris.com
bri...@en.com (James Bridges) wrote:
>This last weekend I broke down and bought one of those doohickeys--the
>T.R.U. Nok model in fact. I looked at another brand but it had more
>screws and more $s. The T.R.U. Nok has only two screws and works well.
>There are several good points to this type of release attachment: (1)
>the string goes through the nock square so it won't fall off
>accidentally, (2) your peep doesn't twist as much, (3) it makes it easy
>to tune the nock point up and down (screws instead of spreading and
>crimping a nockset), and of course less string wear. In paper tuning,
>it increased my repeatability so much it didn't take many arrows at
>each setting to determine where I was off. In short, my experience has
>been completely positive; well-worth the $17 bucks I shelled out after
>wacking myself in the face using a cheap release loop. I'm confident
>that this type of attachment will become standard equipment in the next
>few years for release shooters.
A friend of mine uses the string loop with his caliper release, which
would be very difficult for the type of release I have (don't know
what it's called...like a swingarm that pivots open/closed rather than
the caliper/jaw or ball-bearing style...it's the Winn glove release if
you've seen one).
Anyway, if you've seen this type of mechanism, do you think it would
work with the d-ring style nockpoint? I engage my release by simply
pushing it onto the string and it swings shut and locks on it's own. I
would assume there's enough clearance between the ring and the end of
the nock for it to swing closed? I'm going to look for one at the
archery shop this afternoon to try it, but if they don't carry them
and I have to order one I'd like a ballpark idea that it should work.
I definitely liked the "directly inline with the arrow" setup when I
saw his, and I can't imagine the metal d-ring would add more weight
than the old 2-nockpoint method I'm using now.
Thanks for any info or opinions.
Ric
kat...@cris.com
kat...@cris.com wrote:
>I definitely liked the "directly inline with the arrow" setup when I
>saw his, and I can't imagine the metal d-ring would add more weight
>than the old 2-nockpoint method I'm using now.
Replying to my own message here.
They carried the "Super Nock" D-ring style nock. It connects with 4
screws and would cost $15.95. I talked to the shopowner who simply
said there's nothing wrong with them but he doesn't push them because
he's always favored the 2-nockpoint setup...kind of the "if it ain't
broke..." opinion. I asked him about weight and he said the SuperNock
definitely weighs more than 2 nockpoints.
Also, it would definitely work with my release style.
Ric
James Bridges
In article <31acf1fb....@news.cris.com>
kat...@cris.com writes:
> They carried the "Super Nock" D-ring style nock. It connects with 4
> screws and would cost $15.95. I talked to the shopowner who simply said
> there's nothing wrong with them but he doesn't push them because he's
> always favored the 2-nockpoint setup...kind of the "if it ain't
> broke..." opinion. I asked him about weight and he said the SuperNock
> definitely weighs more than 2 nockpoints.
>
> Also, it would definitely work with my release style.
>
>
> Ric
I'm sure the nock release ring (is there a good simple name or these
things?) weighs quite a bit more than the two nok points. But I shoot a
2219 at 400grains instead of the 275 grain carbon already, so this
isn't my main focus obviously. What is my focus is to have a consistent
shot and not to have a misfire that could cost me my bow limbs.
The package that my T.R.U. D-ring came in mentioned two models for
different release types. Unfortunately they didn't mention which one
I'd got, nor is it marked on the D-ring.
My problem with the string loop was not in tying the knots, it was
finding a string which would not slip through the 1/32" gap in the
release jaws.
Raymond A. Grodnicki
In <1996May28.1...@news.wrc.xerox.com>
jld...@unconfigured.xvnews.domain (James Dodd) writes:
>
>In article <1996May24.143912.9080@ucbeh>, Ed.C...@UC.Edu (Edwin L.
Curtis) writes:
>> I want to try shooting with a release loop this spring - easier on
>> serving I imagine. I talked to a "pro" at a local Dart set-up and
>> followed his directions on the knots - got busted in the chops after
>> it came undone at 3/4 draw. Question - what is the best knot to
tie?
>> A modified Trilene (fishing line) knot or something else? Do I
>> install a second nock locator below arrow nock or just leave my
>> cushion button? Does anyone want to comment on the use of one of
the
>>
>> Only 129 days left to get ready!
>> Thanks and good shooting.
>> PSE LD300 @66# 25" 2213 w/100 gr TH's.
>> Ed Curtis "Jack of all Trades
>> Ohio Hunter Ed Instructor Master of None"
>>
>
>I'd tend to stay away from those metal d loops, they add weight to the
center of the string and may cause string to rest interference. I tie
my loop with a clove hitch. there was a good diagram in a back issue of
3-D and target guide a few years ago.
>try one of the new 3-D books by larry wise or Kirk Ethridge or one of
the other top pros.
>james
>
>
slow my bow down, it kept hitting my overdraw.
What I did instead was put two knocks over and below my arrow, than
tied on loop with the same material that is used on rope releases using
a half hitch knot, and, than the most important part of the proceedure
I heated the ends of the material. Not only did I pick up 10fps, it
quieted my bow down.
Good Luck
Ray
Terry Trier
In article <4omomc$d...@sjx-ixn2.ix.netcom.com>, rap...@ix.netcom.co
says...
>>I'd tend to stay away from those metal d loops, they add weight to the
>center of the string and may cause string to rest interference. I tie
>my loop with a clove hitch. there was a good diagram in a back issue of
>3-D and target guide a few years ago.
>>try one of the new 3-D books by larry wise or Kirk Ethridge or one of
>the other top pros.
>>james
>>
>>
>I used one of those metal "D" loops and not only did it add weight and
>slow my bow down, it kept hitting my overdraw.
>
>What I did instead was put two knocks over and below my arrow, than
>tied on loop with the same material that is used on rope releases using
>a half hitch knot, and, than the most important part of the proceedure
>I heated the ends of the material. Not only did I pick up 10fps, it
>quieted my bow down.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Ray
>
Same here. Additionally, none of my releases would work with the metal
type loop. I suppose if you had the right release, it would be ok. I was
using the scott little goose which only opens from one side, and when I
pulled the trigger nothing would happen. I had to shake the release to
get the thing to fire. The D ring was hanging on the release. I think
you need a release with a small head and both jaws open to make them work.
You can use a bigger release bu you have to cut all your nocks down to
get clearance. This was even recommended on the D ring package.
STRAIGHT ARROW
Call PSE they have a video out that shows how to tie the loop that won't
come untied!!!!!!!!!!! 1-800-477-7789