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saw blade for cuttin acrylic?

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BLOCK**@home.net <>Drew<>

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Jan 13, 2001, 12:46:23 AM1/13/01
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What type of type of saw blade is best suited for cutting acrylic without
chipping it, melting it because it gets it to hot.

Thanks.

Drew


Frank & Kay Bayne

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Jan 13, 2001, 1:18:31 AM1/13/01
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Try putting a plywood blade in backwords. Makes a clean smooth
cut......Frank
"<>Drew<>" <hookup303**SPAM BLOCK**@home.net> wrote in message
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Stan A. Rogge

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Jan 13, 2001, 2:36:32 AM1/13/01
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Yea, I am with Frank on this one. Home Depot sells good plywood/paneling blades and last time I actually saw what was called an acrylic blade. The special acrylic blade was basically just a paneling blade. Get the highest tooth count they have on a straight tooth blade, no offset toothies. I gonna try the backwards trick next time, didn't think to try that. Maybe even a smoother cut., but on my big table saw it cuts through it like soft butter. 1/4 inch sheets.

If your gonna weld the cut joints, you still must smooth them even more than what a blade can leave for an edge.

Whatever you do, do not get one of those scoring tools and try to snap it. That works poorly and does chip and leave a messy edge, and also, is not very precise.

Good luck.


"Frank & Kay Bayne" <fran...@APCi.Net> wrote in message news:3a5f...@queeg.apci.net...

Kristen

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Jan 13, 2001, 3:04:40 AM1/13/01
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"<>Drew<>" <hookup303**SPAM BLOCK**@home.net> wrote:

>What type of type of saw blade is best suited for cutting acrylic without
>chipping it, melting it because it gets it to hot.

I just used a jigsaw with a plastic-cutting blade. The trick to me
getting a smooth cut was to leave the plastic on the acrylic while
cutting it. It seems to have lubricated the blade. This doesn't work
if you've got acrylic covered with paper instead.

Also, if it's thin enough, you can score it and break it. Not sure of
the maximum thickness this will work with. The Krib will probably
have the particulars.

See ya,

Kristen

--
All Hail King George VII; Puppet, Thief and Liar

http://www.toostupidtobepresident.com/
http://www.bushstillsucks.com/

Frank & Kay Bayne

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Jan 13, 2001, 7:19:05 AM1/13/01
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Like Stan said, a saw doesn't leave a polished edge. It's easy done by
holding a thin (1/16") piece of metal almost 90 degrees from the edge of the
acrylic and draging it along the edge.......Frank
"Stan A. Rogge" <st...@rogge.net> wrote in message
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Jack Naipier

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Jan 13, 2001, 8:37:17 AM1/13/01
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There is a neat tool available called a 'Roto Zip'...
This uses blades that resemble drill bits... it's fast, accurate and leaves
a better / smoother edge than any saw blade I have seen.
It works great for tile (any ceramic), wood, metal, all plastics and
acrylics.
You can even use it as a router for your trim work...

I am not saying go purchase one just for the job tho'... but if you are
going to be cutting other items in the not too distant future, then this
would be a good purchase.
BTW, the black & decker version is cr@p... it is a very cheap nock off of
the real 'Roto Zip' (cheap as in production standards, as it's price is only
some $25 cheaper and it doesn't come with all the extras).

};-)>


Nestor 10

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Jan 13, 2001, 2:55:49 PM1/13/01
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Drew wrote in message
news:PYR76.258800$U46.8...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...

> What type of type of saw blade is best suited for cutting
> acrylic without chipping it, melting it because it gets it to
> hot.

On top of all the good suggestions for saw blades (which I used to use when
I cut acrylic regularly back in my Arcade days - even still have a few
"scoring" cutters, too), consider this:

Lately I've been using a Dremel tool with a router attachment. Of course a
full- sized one would work also. But the advantage of the router, especially
with the proper guide, is a clean, smooth and *squared* edge that leaves
very little to be done come joining time...

--
-Y-

Nestor 10
nest...@mindspring.chkr.com
".chkr" is for mail-bots

Sidney Beauchamp

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Jan 16, 2001, 5:03:59 PM1/16/01
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For the money, Frank is right.

I bought a specialised arcrylic blade (with is exactly the same as a
soft metal blade) and it work very well. There
are 2 disadvantages though: The cost is about 4 times as much and the
blade width is greater. The edge is a little smother but it nothing a
edge shapener can't easely fix. In most cases you need to sharpen the
edge anyway.

After hearing about the plywood blade in reverse, I tried it and I could
of saved 28.95.

Sid.

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