Minwax "Polyshades" -- why not for floors?

[JayB]

I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR
hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".

I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in
a new thread.

My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain
and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a
one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and
then cover with a polyurethane finish.

Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so
far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote
about in my other thread.

But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for
floors.

My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?

I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks
pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can
anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?

[Joe]

Many companies. maybe even MinWax, have top notch customer service
departments. Why not give them a call and see if one of their
development scientists can give you some insights? They might even
suggest a nice alternative to help you get the floor color you want.

Joe

[sa...@dog.com]

You are just a regular gltton for punishment, aren't you!

[Red Green]

"JayB" <Ja...@ertyurtio.ghj> wrote in
news:hd4ca3$s2e$1...@news.eternal-september.org:

Don't.

Guess: It's probably not hard enough for foot traffic. End up like
walking on a floor that had orange juice spilled on it.

Fact: It WILL look like pure shit. Streaks of dark and light. Different
very minor thicknesses in the poly will have different stain color. The
stain is embedded in the poly. Anywhere the thickness changes the color
will change.

If you go ahead and do it anyway, PLEASE post a pic so someone else can
see what a jackass they would be to use it for a floor.

[ransley]

On Nov 7, 11:55 am, "JayB" <J...@ertyurtio.ghj> wrote:

Go ahead and do it, it will look like crap, then we can hear you for a
month asking how to fix the mess. You got good ideas already.

[JayB]

"Red Green" <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns9CBCC7FC8...@216.168.3.70...
> "JayB" <Ja...@ertyurtio.ghj> wrote in
>> ..........

>> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended
>> for floors.
>>
>> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
>>

> Fact: It WILL look like pure shit. Streaks of dark and light. Different

> very minor thicknesses in the poly will have different stain color. The
> stain is embedded in the poly. Anywhere the thickness changes the color
> will change.
>
> If you go ahead and do it anyway, PLEASE post a pic so someone else can
> see what a jackass they would be to use it for a floor.

I went ahead and did it and so far it looks pretty good. I can't say that I
would recommend doing what I did because it was a little tricky.

I put on one thin coat of Pecan Minwax Polyshades over an unfinished and
unsanded new red oak #2 hardwood floor, then covered that with 2 coats of
Behr clear gloss "Classic Oil" polyurethane. It looks good except for one
small spot in the doorway of one room where that room had dried somewhat
before I got the other room done, and where the two rooms meet there is a
slight overlap of the semi-dried original coating with the newly applied
coat from the second room. That caused a small darkened area due to two
coats being applied there. I lightly sanded that out to reduce the
coloration and it now looks okay.

So, yes, it's tricky..., but at least it worked in my case. I don't know
about how long it will last, but I think it will be fine due to the two
protective coats of clear gloss poly on top.

I took some pictures, but I don't know how to upload them. I tried
photobucket.com but they required a valid cell phone number to sign up and I
don't want to do that.

[David Nebenzahl]

On 11/15/2009 12:30 AM JayB spake thus:

> I went ahead and did it and so far it looks pretty good. I can't say that I
> would recommend doing what I did because it was a little tricky.
>
> I put on one thin coat of Pecan Minwax Polyshades over an unfinished and
> unsanded new red oak #2 hardwood floor, then covered that with 2 coats of
> Behr clear gloss "Classic Oil" polyurethane. It looks good except for one
> small spot in the doorway of one room where that room had dried somewhat
> before I got the other room done, and where the two rooms meet there is a
> slight overlap of the semi-dried original coating with the newly applied
> coat from the second room. That caused a small darkened area due to two
> coats being applied there. I lightly sanded that out to reduce the
> coloration and it now looks okay.

I have no doubt that your finish job looks okay. What I suspect, though,
is that that "classic oil" finish isn't going to stand up to foot traffic.

That stuff's meant for furniture and such, not floors that get lots of
wear and tear. But it's not a tragic situation; only means that you're
going to have to refinish it sooner rather than later.

You'd be better off using a varnish that's meant for floors next time
for the topcoat.

--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?

- harvested from Usenet

[Ed]

> I have no doubt that your finish job looks okay. What I suspect, though,
> is that that "classic oil" finish isn't going to stand up to foot traffic.
>
> That stuff's meant for furniture and such, not floors that get lots of
> wear and tear. But it's not a tragic situation; only means that you're
> going to have to refinish it sooner rather than later.
>

I suspect the reason is that over time the finish will wear in the
traffic areas and create light spots. You would never be able to
correct for that without sanding the floor. You got around that
problem by applying two coats of polyurethane so you might be OK as
long as you never let the wear get through the polyurethane. Another
possibility is that the Polyshades is a softer finish and the harder
polyurethane might not be compatible.

[zero...@apocalypsedesigns.com]

My dad did this for his floors several years ago and they turned out FANTASTIC, so him and my brother convinced me to do it for my floors (especially since the only other option for us was dye as the color we want is not available in stain). It looked amazing at first, but the finish is now chipping in places where the boards are against each other. My dad's still looks great -_-

[dpb]

On 3/26/2014 2:26 PM, zero...@apocalypsedesigns.com wrote:
> On Saturday, November 7, 2009 12:55:12 PM UTC-5, JayB wrote:

...

>> My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain

>> and polyurethane combined into one. ....
...

>> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so

>> far that actually seems to look the best ...

>>
>> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for
>> floors.
>>
>> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?

My experience with it is that I'd never touch it for _anything_ again.
It blotches terribly, doesn't level well and just generally sucks...

For floors, it's not recommended because it's not hard as a floor
varnish needs to be. I'd guess mixing in the stain in the product
itself has a lot to do with that as well as that it was just not
designed for the purpose. On top of that it (the included stain) makes
for terrible the application properties as well.

>> I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks
>> pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can
>> anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?

See above for at least a couple.

You can mix regular stains to whatever color you want if the premixed
shades are quite the right tint or thin if somewhat darker than want in
a near shade. You don't even have to restrict yourself to Minwax alone,
there are a zillion other compatible stains and also base dyes as well.

<http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/ColorTheory.html>

and follow links therein.

> My dad did this for his floors several years ago and they turned out
> FANTASTIC, so him and my brother convinced me to do it for my floors
> (especially since the only other option for us was dye as the color
> we want is not available in stain). It looked amazing at first, but
> the finish is now chipping in places where the boards are against
> each other. My dad's still looks great -_-

Lots of that likely has to do with the type of flooring and the
wear/use/abuse they get plus even the differences in location, climate
and heating systems causing variations in the shrink/swell cycles with
season and moisture.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 3/26/2014 3:26 PM, zero...@apocalypsedesigns.com wrote:

>>
>> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so
>> far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote
>> about in my other thread.
>>
>> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for
>> floors.
>>
>> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
>>
>> I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks
>> pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can
>> anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?

It could be tat the formula is not as durable for a floor. Top coating
should solve that problem. Keep in mind, the clear oil finish is not
clear but a bit amber. The water base is clear. Be sure to check
compatibility when mixing different finishes.

[harryagain]

<zero...@apocalypsedesigns.com> wrote in message
news:683a27e6-c1d1-4768...@googlegroups.com...

On Saturday, November 7, 2009 12:55:12 PM UTC-5, JayB wrote:
> I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR
> hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
>
> I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic
> in
> a new thread.
>
> My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has
> stain
> and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a
> one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and
> then cover with a polyurethane finish.
>
> Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so
> far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I
> wrote
> about in my other thread.
>
> But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for
> floors.
>
> My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?

Probably because it makes the floor slippery.

[kay...@gmail.com]

Thank you for posting that question. I was supposed at all the insulting negative answers you received though. I had to search to see if i could find a straight answer without insults do i could actually learn and you were also the one to provide that, do thank you.

Kay

[plza...@gmail.com]

I'm a professional that has applied every typpe of coating imaginable for 20 years, and I've recently had this same question for my own home. All the guys here that are saying negative things are all talking out their ass. I'm sure non of them has tried it. I've done extensive testing on all the major finishes to find the best tintable clear coat for Pergo Flooring, which is going against conventional thinking even more than your situation. I've succefully applied coatings to plastic/ceramic/metal surfaces that are exposed to exterior sub zero weather without a problem or premature failure for 20 years, I know coatings. Most people that say tyou can't do this or that to wood floors are flooring guys, not coatings experts. Anyway I recently tested about 20 different products on untreated pergo flooring, straight out of the box, no sanding, no prep. Some stuck but failed the scratch test,i expected the solvent based ones to hold up better but didnt. The ONLY product that passed the same scuff test that manufactures use was this damn water based polyurethane and stain in one. It was hard as hell, didn't scratch off looked excellent. Guys that talk about streaking and such are not coatings professionals so they most likely aplied it incorrectly or simply lacked experience, applying any clear coat properly with professional results must be done by someone with experience fellas.
The reason why the poly manufasturers say not for use on floors is because the liklyhood that the homeowner will not properly clean any suface contaminates such as wax, pledge ect from the floor first id=s very high, so their product would appear to fail and lift and they would get the blame. Floors are much more likely to have a build up of who knows what put on them over the years, much more so than furniture or cabinets.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Actually, the reason it is not recommended for flooring - rightly or
wrongly- is that it is not a "penetrating stain" so as the top coat
wears the color density changes. A normal stain actually "stains" the
wood - and the finish "seals" the surface and provides a wear layer.
Polyshades is more like a paint, in that the colour coats the surface
instead of "staining" it, and acts as the wear layer as well..

The thinking of Minwax is they cannot stand behind their product in
flooring use, since as the wear layer wears, the colour density
changes as well, which to most users would be unacceptable.. Therefore
they do NOT recommend it for flooring use.

They DO recommend some of their clear urethane finishes for flooring -
which negates the previous "expert"s reasoning that it was a
preparation issue.

[Gordon Shumway]

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 17:40:10 -0800 (PST), plza...@gmail.com wrote:

I'm sure JayB was interested in your professional opinion when he
posted his question, but that was six years ago.

A professional would have known that, right?

[jul...@gmail.com]

Your snark is misplaced. Even if the OP is long gone, this is still a searchable thread which could be helpful to other people. And he/her answer was quite helpful.

[Mayayana]

| Your snark is misplaced. Even if the OP is long gone, this is still a
searchable thread which could be helpful to other people. And he/her answer
was quite helpful.
|

I don't see any searchable thread. I see you criticizing
someone but have no idea what came before. You should
get a real newsgroup reader and stop using Google Groups.
Then you won't be posting ghost messages that don't make
sense to anyone else. Newsgroups happen in real time,
not 6 years ago.

[plza...@gmail.com]

I agree that the product lacks the hardness to withstand wear and the color would eventually wear. However, used simply as a vehicle for the stain to be applied(or yes, painted) on top of an existing coating and then topped with a polyurethane that IS recommended for floors, polyshades is ideal.

[plza...@gmail.com]

I arrived here via a simple search for information on polyshades use on floors, does that make it a searchable thread?

[Mayayana]

| > I don't see any searchable thread. I see you criticizing
| > someone but have no idea what came before. You should
| > get a real newsgroup reader and stop using Google Groups.
| > Then you won't be posting ghost messages that don't make
| > sense to anyone else. Newsgroups happen in real time,
| > not 6 years ago.
|
| I arrived here via a simple search for information on polyshades use on
floors, does that make it a searchable thread?

It's hard to explain if you don't know the difference
between Usenet and the Internet. Usenet is a series
of text-based chat groups that are hosted on numerous
servers. It's similar to group email, and it happens in real
time, like email. It has nothing to do with the http protocol
that browsers use to show webpages.

Usenet posts show up in the group and one can
subscribe to any number of groups. Once you subscribe
you can see the latest posts in a "treeview" format,
showing the course of the discussion, and you can join in.

What Google has done has been to collect past Usenet
posts and show them in webpages. In many cases those
posts are years old. That would be OK for informational
purposes, but Google is also allowing people to post to
the groups from those webpages, bypassing Usenet. Those
people usually don't understand what Google is doing and
think they're joining an active discussion.

The result is that Google Groups posters are usually
posting into empty space, while here on Usenet we
see nonsense posts that don't seem to relate to anything.

It's a bit like answering want-ads from a newspaper
that's 10 years old. If you reach anyone at all they'll
probably be confused about why you're calling. It misses
the basic concept of how Usenet works. Since the original
post is years old, no one in the newsgroup sees it, because
the newsgroup is in real time. Posts that old are long gone.
And no one in the newsgroup sees the responses to that
original post. They're also long gone. That's what I meant
in saying it's not a searchable thread. For those of us on
Usenet the first post in the thread is the one starting with
"your snark is misplaced". There's no indication of what the
foregoing posts might have said, so the post from juliatn has
no context. she might have found the discussion by
searching Google, but she's not taking part in the
discussion as she thinks she is.

If you want to read and post to newsgroups you
really should get a proper newsreader and subscribe
to the groups. Then you can take part in the discussions
as they're happening. If you post to ancient threads
that Google Groups has archived it *could* possibly
benefit someone, at some point, who's searching the
Web, but the value of a discussion is lost because the
posters are usually long gone. And meanwhile you're
leaving rubbish posts in the actual Usenet newsgroup
that have no context and therefore make no sense to
readers in the group.

Here's a basic explanation of Usenet:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet

There are numerous newsgroup readers available.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Usenet_newsreaders

If you're used to using freebie webmail through Google
then you may not be familiar with email programs,
like Thunderbird. (Real email, like newsgroups, is
a completely separate communication protocol from
webpages and webmail. Webpages are http. Usenet is
nntp. Email is smtp. Each involves different communication
protocols with different strengths and weaknesses, designed
to be used by specific software. Just as webmail is limited
in comparison with real email, Google Groups webpage format
is limited in comparison to actual newsgroups.)

However you get your email, you can still install Thunderbird,
Forte Agent, MesNews, or any of several other programs
to read newsgroups. You can then subscribe to groups
through your ISP. If your ISP doesn't have newsgroups
service you can get free service here:

http://eternal-september.org/

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Perhaps not ideal, but likely at least acceptable. In this case,
preparation WOULD be the critical step.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Manyana and Stormy need to give this topic not only a rest but "the
deep sleep"

The important thing is people are getting the information they need.

[bob_villain]

I didn't see Mormy in here...but I agree!

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

He just hadn't weighed in yet. He'll be there sooner or later (unless
just to prove me wrong, once again!!!

[Mayayana]

| Manyana and Stormy need to give this topic not only a rest but "the
| deep sleep"
|
| The important thing is people are getting the information they need.

If they learn how it works then we all benefit.
Wouldn't you want to learn if you didn't know?
And wouldn't you prefer not to have the noise of
gmailers talking to ghosts?

With the gradual fading of Usenet and the moves
by Google, a lot of people simply don't get how it
all works. I find that with my own friends and
family. They understand that they can find
discussions online, but they don't understand where
those discussions come from.

[Micky]

For unrelated reasons, I just had occasion to go to
www.homeownershub.com I was so suprised at how little it offers,
compared to alt.home.repair.

The home page has two sections, Freequenly asked questions (whose
questions don't look so frequent to me) and Recent questions.

But when you click on any one of them, all there is is a question with
no answer. I expected to see a whole thread, or a list of answers.

Back on the home page it says Explore HomeOwners' Hub Web, RSS
and Social Media interface to Usenet groups for homeowners!

and they have 10 RSS boxes, for 10 closely related subjects.

Each RSS box is next to one post, but I don't recognize any so far
exacept " does a reliable power vent hot water heater exist? by Don
Wiss", which was posted here originally and is parroted by them, iirc.
This is under HVAC Discussions. but I doubt it is in alt.hvac. (new
newsreader makes it too much effort to look.)

It's a shame those 9 other posters aren't here. Apparently they get
an email if anyone replies to them, and then they have to go to the
webpage again. Newsreaders are about 20 times as efficient.

I posted an article telling them to come to real Usenet for bette
results, and I posted without needing to register, but got this
message:

Thank you! Your question has been added to the system! Our moderators
may need to take a quick look before it goes live. We'll let you know
when it does!

I guess that's the end of that!

[Mayayana]

| For unrelated reasons, I just had occasion to go to
| www.homeownershub.com I was so suprised at how little it offers,
| compared to alt.home.repair.
|
| The home page has two sections, Freequenly asked questions (whose
| questions don't look so frequent to me) and Recent questions.
|
| But when you click on any one of them, all there is is a question with
| no answer. I expected to see a whole thread, or a list of answers.
|
| Back on the home page it says Explore HomeOwners' Hub Web, RSS
| and Social Media interface to Usenet groups for homeowners!
|
| and they have 10 RSS boxes, for 10 closely related subjects.
|
| Each RSS box is next to one post, but I don't recognize any so far
| exacept " does a reliable power vent hot water heater exist? by Don
| Wiss", which was posted here originally and is parroted by them, iirc.
| This is under HVAC Discussions. but I doubt it is in alt.hvac. (new
| newsreader makes it too much effort to look.)
|
| It's a shame those 9 other posters aren't here. Apparently they get
| an email if anyone replies to them, and then they have to go to the
| webpage again. Newsreaders are about 20 times as efficient.

If you look at some of the other topics there you'll see
that all of them are probably from Usenet. One I saw on the
main page was from Stormin Mormon.

The domain is registered in Panama. I think it's probably
one of the many sites that tries to make a little money
by reposting Usenet and showing ads. Usenet posts serve
as their content. More than once I searched for something
online and found my own, earlier post somewhere, having
forgotten that I knew the answer I needed. (That happens
to me a lot with Windows tech issues. There are just too
many details to remember.)
Usually I don't find it in a Usenet archive but rather at
one of those parasite websites, pretending to be a discussion
group. It will be my post and on the left it will say:

Mayayana
Guest

:)

So I'm guessing you're probably not going to get an
answer from that site.

It's unfortunate that both Google and the parasites
don't just play it honest, reposting Usenet with info
about how to find Usenet and not misrepresenting the
content. Then the people who come across info they're
looking for would know how to follow up, instead of
trying to talk to ghosts.

[bob haller]

> >
> > My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
>
> Probably because it makes the floor slippery.

you have a winner.

when a visitor with wet feet fall, and with the coloring in the topcoat.

colors will likely fade and you get to start all over.....

sunny areas will likely fade faster.

[Micky]

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 18:17:47 -0500, "Mayayana"
<maya...@invalid.nospam> wrote:

>
> The domain is registered in Panama. I think it's probably
>one of the many sites that tries to make a little money
>by reposting Usenet and showing ads. Usenet posts serve
>as their content. More than once I searched for something
>online and found my own, earlier post somewhere, having
>forgotten that I knew the answer I needed. (That happens
>to me a lot with Windows tech issues. There are just too
>many details to remember.)

I've searched for things in google, and found my own posts, in
groups.google pages from here and a couple other ngs, sometimes but
less often with technical details and more with stories about my life,
stories I've forgotten. I wouldn't know what I've done were it not
for google.

> So I'm guessing you're probably not going to get an
>answer from that site.

Not yet. But I'm waiting!

[Uncle Monster]

I've searched for my own name before and discovered what an ass I am, OOPS! ⊙.☉

[8~{} Uncle Ass Monster

[bob_villain]

On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 5:38:00 AM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:

> > > It's unfortunate that both Google and the parasites
> > >don't just play it honest, reposting Usenet with info
> > >about how to find Usenet and not misrepresenting the
> > >content. Then the people who come across info they're
> > >looking for would know how to follow up, instead of
> > >trying to talk to ghosts.
> > >
>
> I've searched for my own name before and discovered what an ass I am, OOPS! ⊙.☉
>
> [8~{} Uncle Ass Monster

This is an obvious fact to everyone...

[Uncle Monster]

A list of names please or STFU. You and me don't count you turd muncher. (•‿•)

[8~{} Uncle Certain Monster

[atsc...@gmail.com]

I used the minmax polyshades to worn out hardwood floors 2 years ago! It still looks amazing. I only put on one coat and still not see any wear in high traffic areas. I'm not an expert, but most of it was common sense. It was in my kitchen, so I couldn't do the entire floor at one time.
I stained a 8x6 feet area at a time. Put fans on it for 3 days and LET IT DRY completely.
My hardwood floors have been rejuvenated for about $35.

I hope this helps others.

[Stormin Mormon]

Thanks, I'll try and remember that.
Might be totally useful some time.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[jkessl...@gmail.com]

I just used this product on my floor. A little tough to apply but end result is great, I used it in a bedroom not sure if it would hold up in a high traffic area.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 6:00:18 PM UTC-5, jkessl...@gmail.com wrote:
> I just used this product on my floor. A little tough to apply but end result is great, I used it in a bedroom not sure if it would hold up in a high traffic area.

Maybe it won't even hold up in your area. How would you know if you just
applied it? Why the need to use a product where it says it not intended
to be used, when there are plenty of products for floors available?

[Tekkie®]

jkessl...@gmail.com posted for all of us...

>
> I just used this product on my floor. A little tough to apply but end result is great, I used it in a bedroom not sure if it would hold up in a high traffic area.

Like the George Washington bridge NY/NJ

--
Tekkie

[abxc...@yahoo.com]

Ahhh shaddup! He is a snarker!

[never...@gmail.com]

Ignoring the jerk responses here's the fact.
Polyshades doesn't stain the wood it topically colors it such that any scratch (which is much more likely if you use it on a floor) will result show the original Wood's color.
If you're slow and careful with your application it can look quite nice. But you really need to apply MULTIPLE VERY THIN COATS otherwise you'll get the results the trolls mention (streaks and splotches).
All this being said, I'd water you could pull off a floor use of you for it with multiple layers of proper poly.
But they defeats the whole idea of this being a quick finish and you'd be much better if staining and then finishing.

[Uncle Fester]

But polyshades whole idea results a quick water multiple finishing stain is better not scratch?

[Melissa Currence]

replying to JayB, Melissa Currence wrote:
I think it has to do with the one step process dynamic. It would be necessary
(I believe) to apply additional coats of urethane to the floor over a period
of a few days to make the finish durable enough for floors.


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/minwax-polyshades-why-not-for-floors-404866-.htm

[julie]

replying to Mayayana, julie wrote:
yes, i am just now looking this up. thanks everyone

[plza...@gmail.com]

The reason this is not rated for floors is that it will not hold up to standing water. Floor coatings have an something added to ensure that if the floor is subjected to a leaking pipe, for instance, the standing water on the floor would lift the coating. There are plenty of other options to tint a wood floor without stripping it, the easiest being to make your own "polyshades" type coating by adding a compatible stain to a durable polyurethane that's designed for floors.

[Katie]

replying to juliatn, Katie wrote:
You are obviously correct haha, this is definitely a searchable thread because
here I am in 2018. Thank you!

[Katie]

replying to Mayayana, Katie wrote:
Uhm honey, it made sense to me..3 years later...LOL

[Katie]

replying to clare, Katie wrote:
Agreed! 3 years later so everyone else but them we're awesome! Haha

[ChairMan]

Katie <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
wrote:

> replying to Mayayana, Katie wrote:
> Uhm honey, it made sense to me..3 years later...LOL

Wish you stupid fuckers at homemoanershub would learn to
quote what the fuck you are replying to.
Dumbasses!!!!

[Slacker]

replying to JayB, Slacker wrote:
Because it looks like shit in 6 months
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/n4

[goodwit...@yahoo.com]

LoL this thread is hilarious.
I'm finding it 5 years after the original date of post....
I'm actually doing my bedroom floor in polyshades . .it has been sanded and cleaned, and it is not a high traffic area, so I'm sure it will be fine....it's almost done .
I don't know why people get so bent out of shape, just give your opinion, and let it go.....

[smclay...@gmail.com]

Wow. Your rough dude!. I did it on my floors and they look amazing.

[dpb]

On 7/29/2020 3:26 PM, smclay...@gmail.com wrote:
> Wow. Your rough dude!. I did it on my floors and they look amazing.

Won't wear well, though, for the ages...then again, if only walk on them
in stocking feet, may be "good enough"

Minwax makes a specific line of products (as do all the other
manufacturers) designed for floor use to be harder and more durable.

--

[themoralhighground]

> . .it has been sanded and cleaned, and it is not a high traffic area, so I'm sure it will be fine....it's almost done . I don't know why people get so bent out of shape, just give your opinion, and let it go.....

Same!! How did it turn out? By sanded, do you mean you took it down to the bare wood? Or just scuffed with a buffer?

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/minwax-polyshades-why-not-for-floors-404866-.htm

[BONNIE]

Wow I did my floor with the blue poly shades and it is beautiful!

[Clare Snyder]

On Mon, 19 Sep 2022 02:31:38 +0000, BONNIE
<6334a28822779bf6...@example.com> wrote:

>Wow I did my floor with the blue poly shades and it is beautiful!

It is beautiful until it wears off. It is not a penetrating stain -
more like a "toner" and it doesn't wear terribly well.

[ElleryG.]

I moved to Manhattan in 1995 to an old apartment with dry wooden floors that had not been refinished in years. I would say there was more color than finish on them, no shine at all. A friend from New Orleans said he used Minwax Polyshades right on top of his old floors with amazing results. Since it was a small space and I could redo them if it didn’t work, I tried it with fantastic results. I lightly sanded the medium-brown floors and hand l-brushed old maple polyshades right on top of them to make the color richer. I was in the apartment for 14 years and had no problems. While I would not do this to new or completely re-sanded floors as a base finish, it definitely worked as a facelift for old floors as a top coat.