Petg Drucken

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Malcolm Lozada

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Aug 5, 2024, 5:34:33 AM8/5/24
to alrdenintrig
Becareful. PETG sticks extremely aggressively to the bed on the SM 2.0 (and probably the original as well, though I never tested it). One side of my build plate looks like the surface of the moon trying to get settings that work well with PETG. Start out very conservatively with your settings.

You must not calibrate too low. Only then PETG sticks as hell.

Remove the print while the print bed is at temperature (of course 70C is hot, but you can handle it).

Remove the print sheet and bend it back and forth (so it is not only bent to one side) 1-2 times then rotate by 90 and do it again.

The print should pop off the build plate withou residues.


Luban permits to import json file, where the community proposed .fff S3D file.

Why is luban not coming with PETG preconfigurations? Why is the video not coming with matching configuration proposition links to download for SnapMaker 2.0?


Can you provide base configurations just like for PLA? Fast, Normal, High quality? Inside Luban, or at least here so that user can test filaments+configurations and report back prior of deploying them as defaults inside of Luban?


While you might find some settings that will print petg, luban is not really going to cut it if you are trying to get to the next level to change to petg. even next level PLA is way better than anything luban is going to shit out.


I'm running out of ideas on how to fix this but I've seen enough other people having this exact same issue after upgrading to IS that I feel like it's an issue with the software. Typically the layer shifts will be in the exact same location print after print and it happens very often with multiple objects and maybe 30% of the time with single objects. I print with PETG a lot and would love to be able to depend on it again.


I also suspect it has something to do with IS. I have witness the extruder pausing in one location for a least 10 seconds and I have reason to believe this has something to do with the layer shifting I'm seeing.


My last night print fell miserably (on MK4), again shifted layers, (and i need to remove blob...) i saw it already on MINI, but more often in MK4... (maybe two,three times in one week)

One thing i observed (on MINI) that this happen after multiple successful prints, and when the printer is running for a couple of days. So to mitigate i do now switch off every few printed plates... This works better than rebooting the unit, i couldn't find any other solution. Printer is new, and printing well... But with 5.1.2 FW and 2.7.1 slicer.

Besides I even managed to record the failing process, still in a bit different situation (with less objects) and seems that while PETG can warp a little on the top layer, head when moving between objects (not printing, just changing position for the next one) can hit strongly (accelerations are quite high) little part of plastic, and then the printer loosing coordinates, and continuing do print in the wrong XY range.

Another thing is that on MK4 heatbed is much colder in the corners, i can compare with MINI plate where the heat is distributed more even around. I checked with a pyrometer and a thermal imaging camera, and the difference can be even 15-20 C degrees, but i saw also detaching objects from the center on MK4, (PETG on TXT sheet) so no clue. Anyway i have to offset Z -0.035 without that i cannot print at all on TXT. Maybe someone will have some inspiration for debugging ?


I also notice "globbing" most of the time when this happens. And most of the time it happens with stringing/pore adhesion with the support material. I've been using 5.1.2 on the SPEED setting. I'm going to try switching to structure on my next prints and see if this makes a difference. I never had these issue before IS, so I suspect it may be the excess speed that is playing a part in this. I'm still puzzled by the fact that I've seen the extruder pause (for like 10s) during a print, which would give plenty of time to start a glob.


Yes, here is the same, this stuff called globbing, and on some piece i can sometimes find some bigger ball of filament in place... And you know i have now idea, that maybe it's because of binary gcode i use. Let me explain... Some days ago i discovered that performance of the printer networking depends from ESP01s module, i wrote some other topic here in the forum. While i replaced the module in two printers they started to download files faster. But, with old one i noticed once, that while i was transferring bgcode file to the printer, while printing it stopped for a while (head i place) until transfer finished.. but also print failed that time. Besides on other occasion, and everytime i have it (and few people reported it too) that most of the time _multiple_ objects are in plane, it failed... So... In the last week once i had this issue on mini with 52 objects on plate, and once on MK4 with 80, same model, some petg brick connector. But... The binary file for that is quite big, and this issue happen only after some time, i mean i have 50 objects, and only after 1cm of print something fishy is going on... So maybe just printer is freezing during bgcode decoding? Especially that handling USB memory is also another story... But maybe someone who knows more about it can confirm? Still, this can be probably tested and mitigated with using ASCII gcode like it was before, i think i will give it a try.


But the second case is really random shift in layers, even i don't see anything wrong with layers, so that cause can happen because of that. Printer while decoding big file is stopping for a while, and it's enough time to form "little square of filament" which later drag around the plate messing all other objects. At least i can see something like that here. And all the time it happen in my case when i'm printing multiple (tens of) little objects. So could be that some buffer is overflowing, or there is a glitch while reading bgcode from usb stick... Anyway interesting, i will try to check it.


I my case, I typically only print from a thumb drive, so no issues with downloading causing a pause. I'm still scratching my head over this. I'm thinking about recording some continuous video (the file would be huge) to try to catch one of these layer shifts as it happens. I would have to figure out how to do that. Maybe record in multiple files to keep them to a maximum size. Not sure how I would do that.


I have a lot, nearly every single Print has some kind of layershift. Some in X, some in Y direction.

Sometimes in the first layers, sometimes, the last 2 layers, sometimes multiple layershifts throughout the whole print.

Some only a few mm, some up to 5cm.


Printing large objects like this and in such quantities is a recipe for disaster. Print them one at a time, there will be less chance of the nozzle hitting an object, and if something does happen, you won't lose other objects and a lot of filament. In this case, time is certainly cheaper than filament.


i have been printing the same parts hundrets of times the last several years on my mk3s without any major problems. iam now going to try without input shaper. but thats a shame if its really the problem. One of the best features of the mk4s and i cant use it...


@wade i recently did some tests, and found some workaround, (besides of that the heat bed in my printer is too cold, so i have to set 100 to have (+/-5) 85). After some test prints i found where the nozzle is hitting the material, in one particular print so just layer before i set M220 S80, and continued like that until end of the print (in one of them 50% height, but less material so in total instead of 6h print in 100% speed i have some 6:40 with mixed speed), then in the end you need to set again M220 S100, or just after the print reset the printer. So far so good, i printed few times full plate like always with PETG, i can hear the hit of nozzle, but slower, so it not trigger the homing, and layers are in place. In the slicer you can right click and add custom gcode in the vertical ruler, in the place where left click is setting up the color change.


Same problem. Two times I repeated printing from the same .gcode and layer shifts was in the diferent layer (printing object doesn't move, on printer plate). Next time I change Printer profile fro MK4 Input Shaper to MK4, and result is excelent. (MK4, Firmware5.1.3+13503) .


PETG (Polyethylenterephthalat, modifiziert mit Glykol) ist ein hufig verwendetes technisches Material, das bei Anwendern von 3D-Druckern wegen seines niedrigen Preises und seiner guten Druckbarkeit beliebt ist. Es ist zh, mit guter Temperaturbestndigkeit; PETG wird am hufigsten zum Drucken verschiedener mechanischer Teile, Halterungen, Klemmen und wasserfester Teile (dank der guten Schichthaftung) verwendet.


PETG hat eine glnzende Oberflche, haftet stark auf einem Druckblech und schrumpft oder verzieht sich nicht (es hat eine sehr geringe thermische Ausdehnung), daher ist es fr den Druck groer Modelle geeignet. Auerdem verhindern seine hohe Zhigkeit und Flexibilitt oft einen Bruch. Aufgrund der guten Temperaturbestndigkeit eignen sich PETG-Teile sowohl fr den Innen- als auch fr die meisten Auenanwendungen (mit Temperaturen unter 80 C). Teile unserer Drucker werden aus PETG hergestellt!


Der Buchstabe G in PETG bedeutet, dass es whrend des Herstellungsprozesses mit Glykol modifiziert wird. Glykol macht PET weniger sprde, leichter zu drucken und transparenter fr durchscheinende Drucke. Natrlich knnen Sie auch mit PET-Filamenten ohne Glykol drucken. Allerdings ist das Drucken nur mit PET eine Herausforderung und bietet keinerlei Vorteile.


Obwohl PETG hufig in der Lebensmittelindustrie verwendet wird und als lebensmittelecht gilt, empfehlen wir es (oder jedes andere Filament) nicht zum Drucken von Geschirr oder anderen Dingen, die direkt mit Lebensmitteln in Kontakt kommen. Der Hauptgrund sind winzige Rillen auf der Oberflche der Druckschicht, die zahlreiche Bakterienkolonien tragen knnen. Wenn Sie aber dennoch ein 3D-gedrucktes Geschirr wnschen, empfehlen wir das Auftragen einer speziellen Schicht, die die Oberflche versiegelt (lebensmittelechte Beschichtung) und den Druck mit einer sauberen Stahldse.

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