RE: [Intermediate Mentor Group] FW: Winter Mountaineering - Need Leaders

[anderson.stevej]

Hi Rich.  Many of us missed winter mountaineering last year. I did.

Steve

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S™ III, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone 

-------- Original message --------

From: Rich Draves

Date:01/21/2015 20:48 (GMT-08:00)

To: alpine-in...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [Intermediate Mentor Group] FW: Winter Mountaineering - Need Leaders

Does this apply to you folks? Should we try to arrange a fieldtrip for the group?

Also - send out any suggestions for climbs for the summer.

Thanks,
Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: The Mountaineers [mailto:in...@mountaineers.org]
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 6:32 PM
To: Richard Draves
Subject: Winter Mountaineering - Need Leaders

Dear Climb Leaders,

In recent years, the large group format Winter Mountaineering field trip has been cancelled a number of times due to avalanche hazard.  It's been difficult to be nimble and change locations with the large group for an overnighter.  Thus, students from last year's intermediate class largely did not get an opportunity to learn winter mountaineering skills.  This has impacted many who need the skills to be rope leaders, or future climb leaders.

So we need some help from a few of you to lead small party winter mountaineering events. 

We have changed the format for Winter Mountaineering to either a one-day or two-day field trip - Leader's discretion.  These field trips will be primarily small groups of 10 - 12 students.  Leaders will set-up and manage the activity, and determine the location depending on conditions.  Some of our mentor groups have already set-up these field trips, and we have successfully run them in the past.  Skills to be covered include:

•Avalanche Skills including weather and avalanche forecast assessment, route-finding in avalanche terrain, avalanche accident response and search techniques
•Snow and Glacier Travel skills review, (including glissading, self-belay and self-arrest), and how to teach these skills.
•Snow Anchor Construction and Evaluation including pickets, bollards, and deadman.
•Belaying on Snow (running and fixed belays)
•Mixed Terrain (rock & snow) climbing & travel with crampons and ice ax
•Snow Shelters (emergency and planned)

We are looking for Leaders who can lead these field trips. We'll help you set-up the activity and recruit instructors to assist.  The field trips should be scheduled after February 12th, which is when the Winter Mountaineering lecture occurs.  We have a large intermediate class this year of 60 students, and many from last year who need to attend.  Many will become intermediate graduates and future climb leaders.

If you are interested, please contact me or Nick Howard at nickj...@hotmail.com and he will get your the course handout and provide help with setting up the activity.  I know we are all waiting for snow.  That is a necessary ingredient!

Your consideration of this request is appreciated.

Regards,

Stan
Intermediate Climbing

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[oleg gudzyuk]

I missed it as well.  Would love to knock this out this year.

Cheers,

Oleg

[fretglider]

I replied to Rich individually, but thought I'd chime in here as well.  This is something I still need and would prefer to do this in a smaller group.  If we have an objective other than sleeping in a snow cave for a night, even better! : )

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

[J.R. Jesson]

Me too!

JR

-Sent from my iPhone

[snafflehound]

All - It looks like at least three (JR Jesson, Fretglider & Oleg) need Winter Mountaineering.  Please reply to this email chain asap if you need to complete this field trip and want to do as part of a small group this season.

There’s barely enough snow anywhere for a snow cave but we can figure something out.  Think about the following and we’ll get a doodle poll out in the next week with dates Rich and I are available:

Availability Assume not before March but before mid-April

Snow Transport Are you a skier, splitboarder or snowshoer

Gear Do you have appropriate gear for a night out in winter

I will get the course handout and see what is required.

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

[Liesbet Michiels]

I'm back in Seattle now and still need this field trip too. Although, I'll be completely honest, I might not be able to fit it in this year.... I'm planning on taking the Professional Engineering Exam in April and studying for it is taking up most of my spare time this winter.

Keep me posted though please! If it so happens that I can squeeze it in, that would be really awesome. 

Miss you guys & am super glad to be back in Seattle & looking forward to getting back into the whole Mountaineers thing! :)

-Liesbet

Sent from my iPhone

[Rich Draves]

Welcome back!

[Mike Harlow]

Me too...

 

Mike

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[John Rashel]

I missed it last year as well.

John R.

[Vikram Sahney]

Yes - Amazingly I actually still need Winter Mountaineering credit for intermediate as well.  Happy to co-lead though.

I think any time in March might work.  I am a skier and have full gear.

Vik

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[Austin B. Shepherd]

I'd like to get in on this too if dates match up.

Welcome back, Liesbet!

Happy to ski or snowshoe.

Note skiing with full pack is still new for me.

Good on winter gear.

Cheers,

ABS

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Austin B. Shepherd

a.shep...@gmail.com

210 862 5094

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[snafflehound]

Climbers -

We’ve picked a date for the Winter Mountaineering field trip.  It will be a one day trip on March the 15th.  We’ll have a full day and be searching for snow as the current dry spell is expected to continue next week.

So far we have the following:

Brian Co-Lead

Rich Co-Lead

Vik Co-Lead

Steven Confirmed

Mike Confirmed

Austin Confirmed

Oleg Confirmed

Liesbet Pending - Hold to March 8

JR Pending - Hold to March 8

IF THERE ARE OTHERS I MISSED, PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP

We will keep the group size at no more than 12 which will facilitate three four person groups.  I will send Nick Howard a note on March 8 opening up the field trip to enough additional students to make 9 students and 3 leaders.  

A copy of the itinerary is attached:

[Liesbet Michiels]

I promise I really did intend to respond before March 8th. I will not be joining you for the field trip next weekend. :(

Hopefully I'll see all of you this spring!

Good luck on the field trip & looking forward to climbing with you again!

Liesbet

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Plan on a full day out given the field trip guidance.  Let’s hope we need to actually choose between skis and snowshoes.  More detailed gear list to follow.  For anyone who has an avalanche beacon, plan on bringing it.

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

Austin B. Shepherd

a.shep...@gmail.com

210.862.5094

[oleg gudzyuk]

Hey everyone,

apologies if I missed the mail already but are we still on for this weekend? Details?

thanks,

Oleg

On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 9:58 PM, snafflehound <snaffl...@me.com> wrote:

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Plan on a full day out given the field trip guidance.  Let’s hope we need to actually choose between skis and snowshoes.  More detailed gear list to follow.  For anyone who has an avalanche beacon, plan on bringing it.

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 9:09 AM, Austin B. Shepherd <a.shep...@gmail.com> wrote:

--

Austin B. Shepherd

a.shep...@gmail.com

210.862.5094

[Rich Draves]

Yes, we are on (assuming we have a tolerable weather forecast).

[J .R. Jesson]

I’ll not be able to make it this weekend. Instead, I'll be at the Powder Creek Lodge, enjoying a week of ski touring in the Purcell Mountains… If I provide a picture of me in a snow cave, any chance that could qualify??

Have Fun!

JR

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<IWMFT 2015.docx>

Plan on a full day out given the field trip guidance.  Let’s hope we need to actually choose between skis and snowshoes.  More detailed gear list to follow.  For anyone who has an avalanche beacon, plan on bringing it.

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 9:09 AM, Austin B. Shepherd <a.shep...@gmail.com> wrote:

--

Austin B. Shepherd

a.shep...@gmail.com

210.862.5094

[anderson.stevej]

Hi All, Mike and I will meet you up at Paradise. We will go through the Longmire Gate at 0800. We are coming from Bremerton. If you have any last minute info in the morning text 360-471-7679.

Thanks

Steve Anderson

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S™ III, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone 

-------- Original message --------

From: Mike Harlow

Date:03/14/2015 14:16 (GMT-08:00)

To: oleg gudzyuk , snafflehound

Cc: Rich and Martha Draves , Vik and Jessica Sahney , alpine-in...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [Intermediate Mentor Group] Winter Mountaineering - Need Leaders

Hello all,

 

I’m still planning to go and will bring a 9.4 mm glacier rope, unless we need a thicker one.

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

From: oleg gudzyuk

Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 12:33 PM

To: snafflehound

Cc: Rich and Martha Draves ; Vik and Jessica Sahney ; alpine-in...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [Intermediate Mentor Group] Winter Mountaineering - Need Leaders

 

Does anyone have an extra pair of snowshoes I could borrow for the day?

thanks,

 

Oleg

 

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:53 AM, oleg gudzyuk <olegg...@gmail.com> wrote:

I am coming.  See you guys tomorrow!

Cheers,

 

Oleg

 

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:51 AM, snafflehound <snaffl...@me.com> wrote:

Hello all -

 

Looks like the Longmire gate opened at 7:00 this morning.  I'm going to guess it will open no later than 8 tomorrow so let's go ahead and get an early start meeting at 6:15 at the P&R below.

 

Rich won't be able to join us so Vik and I will be leading. 

 

Can everyone who is coming tomorrow please reply back to this email?  I want to make sure we know how many will be meeting tomorrow morning.

 

 

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

 

On Mar 12, 2015, at 6:24 AM, snafflehound <snaffl...@me.com> wrote:

 

All -

As a follow up to my earlier email, here's the plan for Sunday:

 

We have the following:

Brian Co-Lead

Rich Co-Lead

Vik Co-Lead

Steven Confirmed

Mike Confirmed

Austin Confirmed

Oleg Confirmed

Liesbet and JR will not be able to make it.  I sent a note to Nick on Monday so we may have three to five others join.  If you have friends in the class who would benefit from getting this field trip taken care of, please reach out to them.  We can not be a group of more than 12 though.

 

Let's plan to meet at the South Renton Park & Ride, South 7th Street, Renton, WA.  If you have capacity and are willing to drive, please reply back.  Rich and I are both able to drive four apiece.  I have a silver Toyota Tacoma and Rich has a silver Highlander.  I'd like to meet at 6:15 am (gives time to hit the SBUX across the street :-) assuming the Longmire gate opens at 8:00.  Check your emails on Saturday though. If they've gotten snow and Friday and Saturday and are likely not to open till 9:00am, there's no reason to rush down there and we can meet at 7:00am.

 

Longmire to Paradise

OPEN daily, weather permitting. Road closes nightly. Nightly closure schedule: March 7 - mid April Mon-Fri, gate opens 9:00 a.m., uphill gate closes 5:00 p.m.; gate fully closed at 6:00 p.m. Departing Paradise no later than 5:30 p.m. is recommended to safely drive down the hill before closure. Sat-Sun, gate opens 8:00 a.m., uphill gate closes 8:00 p.m.; gate fully closed at 9:00 p.m. Departing Paradise no later than 8:30 p.m. is recommended to safely drive down the hill before closure. NOTE: Opening/closing times can change unexpectedly due to weather, road conditions, and/or avalanche danger. The park has limited winter staffing, so on days with inclement weather the gate will only open if there is enough staff to clear and patrol the road to ensure safe travel. Check MountRainierNPS on Twitter for status updates of the Longmire-Paradise road.

 

For those who will be driving, see the following - you have to have chains regardless of vehicle type.

Per nps.gov: All vehicles are required to carry tire chains when traveling in the park during the winter season (Nov 1 - May 1). This requirement applies to all vehicles (including four-wheel drive), regardless of tire type or weather conditions. Review the Tire Chain Frequently Asked Questions for more information or learn more about Winter Recreationat Mount Rainier.

 

Please read the syllabus below and come prepared.  If there is specific gear you don't have Beacon, probe, shovel, reply to this group asap.  See the gear listing - specifically a picket, a rope for every three people, prusiks, runners, biners, pulley's, etc if we do a  z-pulley.  Assume it will be a full day and between the weather forecast and the shelter portion, you will likely get wet.  Bring extra gloves and plenty to stay warm during the day.  As for snow travel techniques, I know some will be on skis and others snowshoes.  Either are fine - but have something in case this week's weather has dropped a bit of snow at Paradise.

 

For the avalanche section:

1 - read the weather forecast for Mt Rainier for Sunday

2 - read the avy forecast for the same area (or as close to it as you can) on nwac.org

3 - be prepared to discuss the types of hazards we are expected to encounter and how you would approach route finding to the top of Pan Point from Paradise.  We usually approach from the southwest but for our purposes, may be better served approaching from the south east (Paradise glacier environs)

 

I strongly recommend spending some time at http://www.backcountryaccess.com/education-research/#learn-about-av-safety

There are videos on proper beacon search techniques, strategic probing and strategic shoveling (http://youtu.be/bNJi6SS5ghA).  You may also want to print out the safety handouts.

 

For the climbing portion, I think there's some steep snow on one side of Pan Point we can use for mixed climbing.  Bring your axe and boot crampons just in case.  You don't need ice climbing gear.

 

For the shelter portion, we'll focus on good winter camping techniques, tarps, kitchens, trenches and as a group, do one group snow cave at the end.

 

Here's the course syllabus:

 

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<IWMFT 2015-2.docx>

 

Below are some supplemental materials I think you will find interesting. 

 

Snow Anchor Video

http://youtu.be/EswaQX-9qjw

 

BC Ski Rescue Sled

http://tmbevans.blogspot.com/2009/05/improvised-emergency-toboggan.html

 

Emergency Shelters:

Master of the Backcountry Tarp

http://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/stories/master-the-art-of-the-backcountry-tarp

 

Creative Tarp Video (1^st 10 min – As there are often tree shelter options in the Cascades)  There are many other videos out there.

http://youtu.be/YRCENVAbZyM

 

 

Brian Young

snaffl...@me.com

206-601-0735

 

On Feb 26, 2015, at 9:58 PM, snafflehound <snaffl...@me.com> wrote:

[Austin Shepherd]

Any chance someone is passing through Northgate?

My car is still in the shop. G/F offered a ride to Renton to be there by 6:15 am but I also need to confirm I've got a seat in a car to Rainier.

Other than those bits of logistics, excited for tomorrow!

-Austin

[Rich Draves]

I'm going to join after all, so plenty of seats.

Sent from my Windows Phone

---

From: Austin Shepherd
Sent: ‎3/‎14/‎2015 8:04 PM
To: anderson.stevej
Cc: Mike Harlow; oleg gudzyuk; snafflehound; Rich Draves; Vik and Jessica Sahney; alpine-intermediate@googlegroups com

[Austin Shepherd]

Cool, thank you!

[Steven Anderson]

Rich, Brian, and Vik,

Thanks for arranging and going ahead with our winter mountaineering this weekend.  I have always thought it was better to train in bad weather to see what it is like.  If you don't go there in training you can't go there in battle.

Steve

[Mike Harlow]

Yes,

 

Many thanks, leaders.

 

We greatly appreciate your efforts in this endeavor and all of your volunteerism, dedication and contributions to the Mountaineers.

 

You are who what makes use what we are!

 

Climb on,

Mike

[Rich Draves]

Hi folks, I ended up with a light purple glacier rope. I don’t recall whose it is, but it’s definitely not mine.

 

Rich