Ihave a 1st Generation (1995-1999) Toyota Avalon with a P1135 error also. I change the Denso Air Fuel Sensor P/N: 234-9007 and it solve the problem and the check engine light went away. I change it from the top instead of going under the car it was really easy. Hope this help like other have help me.
I too have a 2001 Toyota Camry. I also had issue with oxygen sensor. Replaced both upstream and downstream sensors. Still pulled code p1135. Was told to try replacing plugs, PCV valve, and to check for leaks between the O2 sensors on the exhaust pipe. Come to find out was give. The wrong sensor. The upstream sensor required one for California emissions. Finally got the right one and bang! No codes. Problem solved. Plus got new plugs and PCV valve. lol.
Hi, do any of you fellow hackrs or dealers happen to have the breakdown of the factory option codes for Toyota? Specifically the 4runner? It would be really helpful for potential buyers when looking at postings where the inventory with the price/option codes are given in list format. Thank you.
You can buy a decent code reader, like the one I bought for less than $100 online including tax and shipping. Then you can view live data, check emissions monitor readiness, and clear codes yourself without paying someone to do it for you!
This is where I bought it (and the specific seller I bought it from):
eBay KW850 OBD2 Code Reader Scanner Car Diagnostic Tool Automotive Engine Light...The KONNWEI KW850 OBD2 / EOBD / CAN Car Diagnostic Scanner supports all 10 OBDII test modes on all OBDII compliant vehicles for a complete diagnosis. Featuring the unique patented One-Click I/M Readiness Key, TFT color display and built-in speaker,...
If the check engine light is on because the fuel cap was loose, no action is needed. After tightening the cap the check engine light will go out after two good monitior trips, that may take 2 or 3 days.
I had a small evap system leak code on my 03, fixed it self a bit after replacing the gas cap, no dealer intervention necessary. I find it hard to believe the dealer will not fix it for free. Are you leaving your engine running while filling it with gas? That could set off a code.
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If you now have issues with the battery, now might be the time to change it, depends how old it is. Also, check that the terminals are on securely, they may be loose, causing the radio to reset and ask for a PIN
I too brought a 2005 Echo for my daughter & had it delivered today - unfortunatelly on the way home we noticed the dreaded "SEC" sign on the radio. Naturally, I called the dealer & checked the books - no code security available.
I have a 2014 Yaris, Replaced the battery yesterday and the sec came up on the screen, i have a 5 pin would anyone know what to do? I rang Toyota and they want $88 to decode it. Say the original owner set the pin.
If you end up with the 'help' message and the red key displayed you can press "1, 4 ,6 and the power button " simultaneously , this will allow you to enter a code again. I later found the generic fleet code 320 written in my manual but that doesn't work so I wonder if the reverts to some factory code at that point?
This guy looks like he had a solution back then but stupidly decided against sharing it publicly for some strange reason. He insisted you P.M. him. Though he was the Prime Minister of radio repair or something perhaps ??
When I bought the $600 Prius recently, it had been thrashed. It did not run; it was filthy and loaded with problems. Once I was able to get it running again and clean, I was ready to start driving it. It did not take long for the P0138 trouble code to appear.
What P0138 Means In A Toyota Prius
The literal translation of the P0138 trouble code is oxygen sensor high voltage. Great, so what does that mean? From my experience, I have known that I have viewed a high voltage as a short circuit. The signal would get sent back to the ECU telling it there is something wrong with the circuit, thus setting a check engine light.
No big deal, right? Just chase down the fault, which logic would tell you that a sensor could short internally and cause the code. Only when it doesn't. Then what do you do? You could panic, stress about it, and maybe even have a minor meltdown. Or you could do what I did and begin to ask everyone you know while researching to figure it out.
The Hard Part About The Diagnosis
There is a reason that a good technician will use service information as a road map. Technicians that know a thing or two about how these onboard sensors work, will test the system differently. As I was busy gathering data to share with my cohorts, I observed something interesting. All the data I saw with my factory scan tool showed me everything was working correctly.
So why did my Prius keep tripping the same trouble code over and over again? The question I was boggled over was; if everything is working the way it is supposed to, why the light?. What I did not know, is that sometimes, and especially on Toyota cars, the data you are reading may look accurate but be wrong.
One of the great minds of this generation that I had the privilege of reaching out to is a Canadian friend of mine, who shall remain nameless at this time for identity protection. He has a few years on me but also has a memory that can think through problems as I have never seen before.
As I began to chat with him, and also another friend. It occurred to and become clear that even though the scan tool may be showing correct sensor operation, the Toyota sensors could still be faulty. I had the idea pointed out to me by two parties that both have much more knowledge than I do.
Basically, what it comes down to is this. The messenger, which are the sensors, are sending signals to the ECU telling it what they are seeing. In Prius, Yaris, and Rav4, the ECU looks at the upstream or primary Air/Fuel ratio sensor and bases what the engine does from that reading. Meaning that if the primary sensor is off, the engine is not operating as designed.
So that should trigger a check engine light for that sensor, right? Nope. The message then comes from the rear oxygen sensor that is checking the catalytic converter for efficiency. The secondary sensor sees that the exhaust is crazy rich and sends out a signal of high voltage, making you think that the sensor or the circuit has an issue. Not true.
Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, has designed this system from what I can figure to be a tattle tell on the primary sensor, letting us know when that sensor is acting up. Why? I have no idea; it is just the way Toyota has it.
Moral Of The Story
The moral of the story here is, do not shoot the messenger. That rear oxygen sensor that keeps setting the code could be telling you that the primary sensor is just is not doing the job right. The ECU bases all of the fuel trim off of the primary sensor. It does this to keep fuel economy in-check on Prius. From that standpoint, I think it makes sense to have a sensor blow the whistle on the other sensor when it goes belly up, so you know exactly where the problem is.
Toyota, you are sneaky, but this is one fault we now know how to fix right the first time. I hope you have enjoyed reading and found this information useful. Please be sure to have a great Thanksgiving and be sure to check out my other article, Top Three Reasons Toyota Should Make A Fast Prius Prime.
Peter Neilson is an automotive consultant specializing in electric cars and hybrid battery technologies. He holds a Bachelor of Science in Automotive Service Technology from Weber State University. Peter is also an Instructor of Automotive Technology at Columbia Basin College. Peter can be reached on Linkedin and you can tweet him at The_hybrid_guy on Twitter. Find his page on Facebook at Certified Auto Consulting
Hi, I am the new owner of a 2005 Prius with 216k miles. The check engine light was illuminated periodically, but is now always on. I checked the diagnostic codes using an ODII scanner.
The codes are:
-P0138/$07E8 (description: "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
-P0327/$07E8 (description: "Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
-P0606/$07E8 (description: ECM/PCM Processor).
A Toyota technician recommended replacing the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor for $400, but at the time I was not eager to shell out that money for a solution that may not work, in order to remedy a problem that does not seem to be affecting my car's performance. So.. the main question is, "What now?" What is the cause of these trouble codes? How can I fix it?
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